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Woodworking, DIY, and home repair thread


Mojo Hand

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3 minutes ago, heso said:

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This is my first go at anything more substantial than cutting boards and construction lumber garage shelves.

Simple storage for tools / miscellanea for the basement.

The top 4 drawers have the dividers and all of the pieces are friction fit so that they can be pulled out to make different sized sections.

Well played.

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25 minutes ago, Okie State said:

Nice. Build me one for my garage please.

Not until the price of Baltic birch comes down. I had almost enough on hand for the whole thing. Ended up using 1/2” instead of 3/4” for the drawer fronts because I had it.  3/4” was $60 for a 5’x5’ sheet when I last bought some in June. Went back in early December for more and they only had 4’x8’ sheets and they were nearly $200. 

Edited by heso
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Not until the price of Baltic birch comes down. I had almost enough on hand for the whole thing. Ended up using 1/2” instead of 3/4” for the drawer fronts because it was $60 for a 5’x5’ sheet when I last bought some in June. Went back in early December for more and they only had 4’x8’ sheets and they were nearly $200. 
Great. Just in time for me to start getting quotes on kitchen cabinets.
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17 hours ago, davidg said:

Great work on both of those.  Did ya'll build to premade plans or just kinda wing it?

Used plans I found online and modified to my needs. When I priced premade cabinets locally and online the costs were pretty high compared to what I could do by myself and the quality not nearly as good as I wanted.

Since I had all the tools already I just built them myself. Of course I decided to build them when lumber prices were/are at all time highs.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/5/2022 at 9:01 AM, Antidean said:

Used plans I found online and modified to my needs. When I priced premade cabinets locally and online the costs were pretty high compared to what I could do by myself and the quality not nearly as good as I wanted.

Since I had all the tools already I just built them myself. Of course I decided to build them when lumber prices were/are at all time highs.

Well hell, that just makes ‘em more valuable …

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The in laws had this live edge mantle sitting on an outdoor fireplace at their ranch. Completely untreated, just sat out there for years. They were about to trash it and buy a new one and I wanted a crack at saving it.

Cut the edges to square them up, put nearly a bottle of wood glue into the cracks, sand and hand planed the shit out of it, 3 cans of spar urethane spray for the edges and 1 quart of spar urethane liquid for the flat surfaces.

Before (with some glue dumped into the cracks):

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After sanding:

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Done (spar urethane, sanded between coats up to 800 grit - probably pointless beyond 240 but whatever):

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Ya, it was cold out. The wood drank up the liquid spar pretty quick for the first 2 coats and then I switched to much lighter coats. The spray spar dried to the touch very quickly. I just made sure I never applied so much that the spray spar ran.

~2 hours between liquid coats and ~30 min between spray coats worked out for me. FWIW, that pretty much followed the on bottle/can instructions as well.

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1 hour ago, dieucla98 said:

The in laws had this live edge mantle sitting on an outdoor fireplace at their ranch. Completely untreated, just sat out there for years. They were about to trash it and buy a new one and I wanted a crack at saving it.

Cut the edges to square them up, put nearly a bottle of wood glue into the cracks, sand and hand planed the shit out of it, 3 cans of spar urethane spray for the edges and 1 quart of spar urethane liquid for the flat surfaces.

Before (with some glue dumped into the cracks):

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After sanding:

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Done (spar urethane, sanded between coats up to 800 grit - probably pointless beyond 240 but whatever):

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I've been thinking about building a desk for my home office and using a slab for the top. 

It's easy to go down the YT wormhole on finishing these. 

What are you planning on using this for?

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This is still going to be the mantle for their outdoor fireplace so I used spar urethane because it's going to be outdoors.

If it's indoors, it's probably more critical that it is properly kiln dried than the finish you use. For finish, you have a bevy of finishing options - Rubio Monocoat would be my pick.

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On 1/4/2022 at 2:26 PM, Antidean said:

Yep, the price of plywood is crazy.

I built these this summer out of plywood for my shop.

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I've got a 20x30 insulated, look is similar to yours. I currently have an 8x12 Texas flag and a canvas mural covering some wall space.

What is your wall material? Plywood? Drywall over wood frame?

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Wall is framed in 2x4.

Installed 1/2" OSB sheets and was going to just paint that but when I put the primer coat on the OSB I wasn't satisfied with the overall look.

Ended up putting 1/4" drywall on top of the OSB and finishing that. In reality I made a $1200 mistake installing the OSB when I could have just done drywall.

However, the wall is pretty frickin stiff so I can hange just about anything anywhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

sound dampening question. 

 

we are putting an addition over our 1886 kitchen /den and would like to muffle the sound somewhat. it will be a nursery / boys room.  any suggestions on how to dampen sound?  i know we can’t get it soundproof, but like to be able to make it as quite up there as reasonably possible.   i see home depot sells an impact sound proofing floor underlay. is that all i need?  any other suggestions ? 

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Only thing I can offer up is whatever material you pick, you need mass. The denser the better. With a floor underlayment designed for sound proofing plus sound proofing insulation, you'll probably get close enough. Soundproofcow.com has a lot of materials you can use for this purpose.

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13 minutes ago, dieucla98 said:

Only thing I can offer up is whatever material you pick, you need mass. The denser the better. With a floor underlayment designed for sound proofing plus sound proofing insulation, you'll probably get close enough. Soundproofcow.com has a lot of materials you can use for this purpose.

thanks. that webpage looks to be exactly the resource i need 

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2 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Non sound-deadening response:  Where is the build?  What city / town?

ooo. this is good timing. it’s down in galveston.  

 

we are matching the current shingles (atlas stormmaster shake singles), which are supposedly good for 150 mph winds. 

that said. they asked what felt we wanted. after a quick google it seems we want synthetic, but no idea beyond that.  here is what atlas offers for example 

 

do you have a recommendation? 

 

 

edit: looks like the place that claimed they had the shingles lied. furk.   know of a good source?  color is majestic shake.   i don’t need a lot. not a huge addition. 

Edited by ONE YARD
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56 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:

How far are you willing to drive to get some? Lead time is a mofo on them currently.

 

 

i guess i’ll need to drive as far as needed since i want them to match (with reason). unless you can think of a model that looks close and has the same performance (or better)

 

is 180 better than 60 or are they used in different situations?  their webpage isn’t really clear (i’m obviously not the target audience) 

 

thanks for the help! 

56 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:

Atlas offers Summit 60, Summit 180 and Summit Rapid Cover. You can still get organic felt from them as well. I’d go with synthetic.

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ugh.  So all the alternate shingles being offered are only rated to 130MPH winds. (GAF Armorshield II, OC Weatherguard HP, Iko Nordic and Malarkey Legacy).

@Jkwellborn or @ROFL BOX yall know someone who might have atlas stormmaster shake singles (majestic shake color) in stock?  or something else that can withstand the same wind? 

ill never forgive myself if this home survived all these storms only to fail due to new lower rated shingles on the addition. lol 

 

or can we just survive a month or so with the artificial felt?  

 

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14 hours ago, ONE YARD said:

ugh.  So all the alternate shingles being offered are only rated to 130MPH winds. (GAF Armorshield II, OC Weatherguard HP, Iko Nordic and Malarkey Legacy).

@Jkwellborn or @ROFL BOX yall know someone who might have atlas stormmaster shake singles (majestic shake color) in stock?  or something else that can withstand the same wind? 

ill never forgive myself if this home survived all these storms only to fail due to new lower rated shingles on the addition. lol 

 

or can we just survive a month or so with the artificial felt?  

 

I prefer natural, baby, seal fur, but that's just me. Not into the artificial thing.

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On 2/8/2022 at 10:21 PM, Jkwellborn said:

I sent you a pm.

thanks again for your help today. really appreciate. 

 

some pictures of the adventure so far. 

 

some of that wood hasn’t seen the light of day in 150 years. crazy how beautiful it still looks a with all the salt/moisture and galveston hurricanes. behind the original cypress siding (which we will be reusing) is thick ass hand cut tongue and groove then spacing. then more of the same tongue and groove on the interior side of the wall 

 

@Jkwellborn you can see why i don’t have to match the exact color. no one will see the roof in any detail  

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Edited by ONE YARD
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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, dieucla98 said:

Looks like some serious joinery, particularly the middle plank. How does it all join together?

It was supposed to be a bridle joint. The bottom or top piece slide into the middle piece at a 90 degree angle. I was working late, tired and rushing. I ran the middle piece across the saw making a cut that was meant for the other two, not that one. So what was a 10 second lapse in attention because I was rushing cost me having to go back to dimensioning rough lumber. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Several threads this might have been better for but I’ll try here first. 
 

I have a low income triplex I’m rehabbing with cinder block exterior walls. I’m going to frame the inside and put drywall up. I want to keep moisture from getting in and rotting the framing or ruining the drywall. Options to do that seem to be:

- exterior paint made to block water penetration (needs to be painted anyway, so this is happening)

- 6 mil poly on interior wall before framing

- painting interior with similar paint as exterior before drywall 

- just using the insulation board that has the foil vapor barrier on one side

Seems every asshole in the internet has an opinion on this, and surly has a lot of assholes, so I figured I’d ask. 

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On 2/9/2022 at 11:03 PM, ONE YARD said:

thanks again for your help today. really appreciate. 

 

some pictures of the adventure so far. 

 

some of that wood hasn’t seen the light of day in 150 years. crazy how beautiful it still looks a with all the salt/moisture and galveston hurricanes. behind the original cypress siding (which we will be reusing) is thick ass hand cut tongue and groove then spacing. then more of the same tongue and groove on the interior side of the wall 

 

@Jkwellborn you can see why i don’t have to match the exact color. no one will see the roof in any detail  

428B1F8B-733D-4C5C-AF73-3E8DDF0A8560.jpeg

D6968296-6534-482D-B6BD-CE17B0FA6D90.jpeg

0A7A28E0-8778-4E68-8860-A1BA563E9143.jpeg

 

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86B9F378-3032-4DCB-930A-BD852B15BA48.jpeg

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Wow. Lots of work there. Finished up?  Just saw you asked what part we were at. We have a place on Grover that we stay at some when not AirBnB’d. We stayed there thanksgiving through first week of January because we figured this was the last time we’d have a chance to do that with the kids stopping home school. 

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Before, and in progress after.  

Beach house bathroom renovation.  I used the existing vanity, and extended it w/ an oak frame, trestle table for a 6' long makeup, and sink basin (oak actually has a great texture when painted, and it's hard as hell for durability) and carved out a linen closet cubby.  

Had a local stone fabricator cut up a remnant, leathered surface slab, and installed waterproof, luxury, vinyl plank flooring.  Last step will be hanging 2 mirrors w/  weathered wood frames, and install 3 new light fixtures.

 

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