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The New Car Fanatic Thread


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On 5/30/2020 at 9:44 AM, Brew said:

Yep and it’s typically from non-owners. I’ve had 3 Audi’s and 2 RR’s with no real problems out of them. I’ve had significant issues with my GM and Ford trucks and have had the last 3 get towed in at least once. All vehicles were bought new (except one of the RR’s), traded around 60k so they are apples to apples comparisons, and all were since ‘09 model years.

I’m a two time owner. Bought a 2006 and told myself never again. The multiple simultaneous airbag failure and sudden “entering safety mode, lowering” motion into low rider status was comical. I drove home thinking I should recline my seat for full effect. Then I got one of several electrical gremlins within a week of fixing that. About a month later, the actual air compressor that fills the air shocks gave out. When I got it back from service, no shit, within a couple weeks the dashboard went out. Drove fine, but had no idea what speed I was going. Got it fixed, and promptly sold it. Vowed never again. 
 

then lost a bet with the wife and rejoined the RR family against my will with a 2017. Beautiful. Until the soft close doors wouldn’t open. It fought me. ‘Nope”, you’re not getting in asshole. Pretty funny to have the service guy meet me at my house and let me into my car to drive it to service. Then the electric gremlins reared their ugly heads again. The infotainment system failed. Touchscreen went out. Then it wouldn’t let me change out of “high water” mode. So we drove it for a couple weeks at full height. Got it fixed and within a few months, the dash started flickering. Oh no. Not again. Had it checked out, and replaced the dash under warranty. Sold it promptly thereafter. 
 

Long story, I’m out. 

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4 minutes ago, Okie State said:

I can usually deal with mechanical issues because they can be fixed. Electrical gremlins are a whole different ballgame.

Yuuup.  Bad enough when everything was analog.  Digital eeeelectronics create an entirely new subset of problems to bug hunt.

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On 6/3/2020 at 9:04 AM, Okie State said:

I can usually deal with mechanical issues because they can be fixed. Electrical gremlins are a whole different ballgame.

the electrical stories I could tell about my X5M....they were so bad the thing literally spent the same number of days in the shop as it did in my possession.  

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It's come to this because I want to continue to drive a sedan, but I need something that fits 3 of my children in the backseat with boosters/car seat.  My wife has a giant ass SUV (Denali XL) so I don't want another SUV.  Supposedly the widest back seat in this class are the a6 and the s90.  I ultimately want a Tesla, but the X and S are out of my price range right now thanks to Covid and I worry that the Y is a tad bit too small.  I figure whichever car I get next is a bridge for a few years until I get my EV.

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6 minutes ago, Okie State said:

Why are all Mustang drivers the same? Guy cruising at 70 on I-10 this morning with what sounded like straight pipes and the poor 5.0 bouncing off the rev limiter. Because race car!

 

 

I see a slightly different variant with some regularity.  Mustang driver on regular street, revving way too high and loud in a low gear, then more or less coasting to the next light.  BRRRRRRAPPPPPP., zzzzzzzzzz, BRRRRRAPPPPPP.

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2 hours ago, TwiceHorn said:

I see a slightly different variant with some regularity.  Mustang driver on regular street, revving way too high and loud in a low gear, then more or less coasting to the next light.  BRRRRRRAPPPPPP., zzzzzzzzzz, BRRRRRAPPPPPP.

Perhaps they're all still learning to drive a manual transmission? 

Same general binary "toggle switch" driving habits among the Mustang community in Chicago, for whatever that's worth. 

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11 hours ago, Prepuce of Doom said:

Perhaps they're all still learning to drive a manual transmission? 

Same general binary "toggle switch" driving habits among the Mustang community in Chicago, for whatever that's worth. 

Nah, I think they just like making noise and sprinting through one gear without going excessively fast.

I'm pretty sure some variants of the Mustang have an exhaust cutout.  Is that an option on all GTs?

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1 minute ago, TwiceHorn said:

Nah, I think they just like making noise and sprinting through one gear without going excessively fast.

You can still get fined for excessive acceleration without actually breaking the speed limit.   Speaking on behalf of a friend from when I was a teenager.

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What do you guys favor for a car wax? I'm not interested in "systems" or concours finishes, just a solid wax to keep the finish cleanish and protectedish and looking decent?

What tends to happen with me is that I will wax a new to me car every few months for a year or so, then interest wanes and I may do it once a year or so.  The paint on my cars tends to still look pretty good when I offload at 7 or 8 years, so it seems that early work pays off some.

So, something that fits that model.

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7 minutes ago, TwiceHorn said:

What do you guys favor for a car wax? I'm not interested in "systems" or concours finishes, just a solid wax to keep the finish cleanish and protectedish and looking decent?

What tends to happen with me is that I will wax a new to me car every few months for a year or so, then interest wanes and I may do it once a year or so.  The paint on my cars tends to still look pretty good when I offload at 7 or 8 years, so it seems that early work pays off some.

So, something that fits that model.

I have had very good success with Dodo Juice if you want to go for a traditional hard shell. To me, it's still the best depth of finish by far, but a little more work than a sealant. Can go one step further and put Klasse acrylic down first, then wax for super deep shine, but I think it only really is noticeable on dark finish cars.

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1 hour ago, Prepuce of Doom said:

Everyone who was clamoring for a Blackwing in this thread a month or two ago - now's your chance... 

 

Who killed the Blackwing?  Trucks.

It is becoming apparent, though, that the Blackwing name will replace -V as the hipo Caddys.  And -V will become sort of mid-po and it looks like maybe a pretty compelling package cost-wise.

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It's come to this because I want to continue to drive a sedan, but I need something that fits 3 of my children in the backseat with boosters/car seat.  My wife has a giant ass SUV (Denali XL) so I don't want another SUV.  Supposedly the widest back seat in this class are the a6 and the s90.  I ultimately want a Tesla, but the X and S are out of my price range right now thanks to Covid and I worry that the Y is a tad bit too small.  I figure whichever car I get next is a bridge for a few years until I get my EV.

If you are shopping new lux vehicles like the Denali and Audi A6 then look at certified preowned Teslas. You can price yourself out easily but you can also get into an S or an X for $50-70k. I got a fully loaded X including the second row three bucket seats separately controlled (not common) for $40k off new. Under 25k miles, 3 years old. 4 year battery and motor warranty and 2 year “bumper to bumper” warranty. I bought my prior model S the same way. Only thing I would add - even with the rear facing bucket jump seats the S won’t comfortably seat 3 growing teens and 2 adults like the X with three rows.
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CarPro or go home.  CQuartz UK for your ceramic coating, Flex for your DA buffer, and dedicate a whole weekend for the correction detail, hopefully with most of the work done under the cover of your garage.  

Man I love my ceramic coating, it makes hand washes a breeze and nothing sticks to it.  You'll have to enforce the rules to the wife:  No automated washes and write NO WASH on all dealership service work orders.

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Bump.  After nearly 2 months between purchase, shipping, and upgrades I was finally able to drive my M3 for more than the 1/4 mile to the body shop.  

So far I've had the front bumper redone updating the carbon fiber splitters from cheap eBay versions to oem.  I also had the wheels shipped out for powder coating, new reflectors, & all non m3 badging removed.  Lastly both subs were blown so I had them replaced with Bavsound subs.  

I spent more than I wanted to, but I'm happy with the results.  

BTW: mechanic said the engine is in perfect shape and it has a full service history.  

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DCT?  If so, was your tech able to indicate clutch wear %?  The wet clutch life of the rear differential is also one to look after-- if it was driven hard over its prior life, that rear diff can wear to the point of becoming an open differential, as early as 60-80K.

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1 hour ago, Gravy Train said:

DCT?  If so, was your tech able to indicate clutch wear %?  The wet clutch life of the rear differential is also one to look after-- if it was driven hard over its prior life, that rear diff can wear to the point of becoming an open differential, as early as 60-80K.

Yeah; its DCT.  The tech, to my knowledge, didn't specially look at clutch wear outside of driving the car.  My concerns were rod bearings (oil testing) and throttle actuators which were already done.  The bearings are my biggest concern because I don't have a record of them being done though I've heard that BMW did update them for the 2011+ engines so I may be overthinking it.  

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3 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

I'm sick of all the COVID talk.  When are you getting your Taycan?

We finally drove it and wife hated the lack of exhaust.  It’s ‘hers’ so I said fuck it and we moved on.  
Been scoping Cullinans with my local buyer.  Will be patient and see if a black badge pops up that I like.  Also still have deposit down on yen Maybach truck that I can get back if I go that route.  
You’re right - C19 has been a buzzkill to say the least.  

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3 hours ago, SDG said:

Yeah; its DCT.  The tech, to my knowledge, didn't specially look at clutch wear outside of driving the car.  My concerns were rod bearings (oil testing) and throttle actuators which were already done.  The bearings are my biggest concern because I don't have a record of them being done though I've heard that BMW did update them for the 2011+ engines so I may be overthinking it.  

You might be able to view an estimate of DCT clutch wear (and launch control use) through an at-home OBD diagnostic tool like Carly or ISTA.  Unless the car was tracked, I wouldn't be concerned about it, as the service life has been reported to exceed 125K.

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