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Well, shit.

 

2105 hrs & all ain't well.

 

Easy: (2) 10mm bolts is all that holds on the water pump (if that even IS the problem).

 

Crazy difficult: that damn serpentine belt! I have changed out these water pumps 2× & the most difficult part is the serpentine, even with the diagram on the lip of the radiator area & endless YouTube videos & other resources via the webulars.

 

I have 2 friends that are on their way over; both are bringing socket kits, one is bringing a Milwaukee rocket light that I got him for X-mas.

 

May as well surf Shag² while I'm waiting.

 

I managed to get into O'Reilly's 7 minutes before closing; power steering took a shit on me when I wasn't too terribly far away.92858b0b08288ce3f7ed404a4d0e60d0.jpg5db9ad3e9aa0f60849fad23ae4e2f07c.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

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I just replaced the water pump on my 06 Cummins 5.9. The 2 bolts were easy after getting past the dang radiator shroud. Instead of installing a 5.9 water pump, I went with an early generation of the 6.7 Cummins water pump as it has 7 instead of the 5 cooling fins that the 5.9 pump has. It is tight to get the belt over the alternator as the 6.7 pumps have a bigger hub size but it keeps the truck 15 degrees cooler by far. For the same price why not let her run a bit cooler.

 

You can see the old one is leaking past the weep hole. The old pump has metal fins and the 6.7 has plastic final

 

I have found it easier to leave the belt on and use a bungee tie and tie it to the hood hinge after slipping it off from the alternator. Then I never have to reroute it but yes when I changed the belt after I bought the truck it is a royal PIA to route that belt. 91d8a3f361534948f6fdd22a47a454ac.jpg458d4711639fb197ea11affb6614e45f.jpg

 

 

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4 hours ago, Mother mopar said:

words words words

 

 

Yeah, the secret to all of the belt hassle is to turn the belt sideways & fish it in the [barely able to fit] space between the tension pulley & the block.  I've done this belt 2x & my buddy who assisted me on those projects kept insisting the only way to get it is to loosen the bolts on the alternator, then wrench the tension pulley AND reset the alternator.

 

The magic is that sideways thing.  When I 1st did this with a pump replacement back 5-1/2 years ago, I was stuck in the parking lot of an AutoZone in Burleson with 2 other rando guys trying to help me - total strangers who did their best & in the end, we (again) did the alternator off thing.

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Different vehicle, '07 Tahoe.  Getting click-no-start issues from the battery.  Buddy says "sure, get under there on a 100 degree day & monkey with the starter (possible solenoid issue)".  Tested the battery last night, was low - not a single thing in this vehicle has changed that would start a battery drain.  Did start with a jump from my truck.

Electrical issues are always fun!

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got a pair of assembled struts from KYB.  the driver's side one was fine.  the passenger side, once it settled in, made a tocktocktocktock noise as you turned the steering wheel.  i sent it back to amazon on an advanced exchange (can't exactly use a vehicle missing a strut).  put new one in.  once it settled, also made a tocktocktock noise as you turned the steering wheel.  at that point i said fuckit and took it to a shop.  dude said it wasn't clocked properly and fixed it.  the whole point of these preassembled struts is that they're assembled correctly and all some asshole like me has to do is bolt them in so i don't have to fuck with a spring or clocking.

also, it has somehow lost the strut bumper.  no idea how that happened.  it's there on the driver's side.  maybe when dude fixed the clock issue he removed it, though he claimed to fix the clock issue without taking the strut off the car and reassembling it. 

the moog lower control arms that are similar vintage are shot.  fuckers didn't last 30K miles.  back to OEMs. 

Edited by elfenix
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6 hours ago, Mother mopar said:

Does the horn or hazards work? If so it isn't your battery, maybe a solenoid?

Didja see my post where I mentioned the solenoid?

Edited by ROFL BOX
& The lights were coming on but didn't try the horn.
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I'm using a loose interpretation of the thread title for CSB time:

Had a little Opel in high school.  A buddy and I had a couple of girls in the car cruising around.  I tried to show off by peeling out and POP! the gas pedal line broke off the carburetor and uncoiled on the the floorpan.  We tried to fish it back into the tube, no chance.  It was late, everything closed, no one around, pre cell phones ... fuck me I had to get the girls home or I was dead man walking.

I rummaged around the trunk, found some old speaker wire and did some deducing.  Hook it up to the carb?  Yes, we hooked it up to the accelarator, fished it through the cowl vents and rolled down the driver's side door. Voila, back on the road.  To give it gas I just pulled on the speaker wire.  To change gears I'd let it retract back, shift, and steer with my knees.  

Probably drove 50 miles like that.

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Had a '74 Audi 100LS. Left a bar in Mineral Wells at closing time and my headlights short out. Only way I can get them to work is hold in the turn signal for the high beam flash. Pull out of the bar and don't make it half a block before I get pulled over for high beaming a cop. I explain the headlight issue and (this was the 80's) he tells me to be careful and let me go.  About 10 miles out of town I run into a DPS roadblock looking for an escaped prisoner. Again explain the problem and they tell be be careful. Today either one of those would be an instant DWI.

Wound up having to replace the multi-function switch. Then later a CV joint went out, the heater quit working and the fuel injection system took a shit. That car was a pos and the only place I could get parts was the Porsche dealer.

Edited by RPM
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