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Treating wood on a shed


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Boiled linseed oil is my thought. However is there another better choice? I will be using a paint gun and compressor so keep that in mind.

 

The goal is keeping the texas sun on the south side of the shed from drying up. Color is not an issue. It can be pink, don't care.

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Boiled linseed oil is my thought. However is there another better choice? I will be using a paint gun and compressor so keep that in mind.
 
The goal is keeping the texas sun on the south side of the shed from drying up. Color is not an issue. It can be pink, don't care.

galvanized metal is a nice color.
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If your shed is cedar or pine then you could try shou sugi ban Japanese fire treatment. You may want to practice first.  
 

If it works out it will be allsome.  If not post the video of your shed burning down on Surly. 

Edited by deadshank
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If your shed is cedar or pine then you could try shou sugi ban Japanese fire treatment. You may want to practice first.  
 
If it works out it will be allsome.  If not post the video of your shed burning down on Surly. 

Are you not familiar with Stanco? There is only one way this will end.
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2 hours ago, deadshank said:

If your shed is cedar or pine then you could try shou sugi ban Japanese fire treatment. You may want to practice first.  
 

If it works out it will be allsome.  If not post the video of your shed burning down on Surly. 

Ohhhh yeah... I like this idea...

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As a point of parliamentary procedure, the wood is usually first fire treated and then installed.   
 

But fire treating an existing structure will dramatically increase the degree of difficulty  and whether a roaring success of architectural achievement in architecture-starved East texas or a complete and utterly aggy-esque smoldering monument to failure you will get all of my pos rep.

Make us proud!

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21 minutes ago, deadshank said:

As a point of parliamentary procedure, the wood is usually first fire treated and then installed.   
 

But fire treating an existing structure will dramatically increase the degree of difficulty  and whether a roaring success of architectural achievement in architecture-starved East texas or a complete and utterly aggy-esque smoldering monument to failure you will get all of my pos rep.

Make us proud!

Gentlemen...... start your heat guns !!!

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Linseed oil, let soak, remove excess then paint or varnish. Traditional maritime wood preservation.

 

Quote

 

Linseed oil is used to preserve wooden parts that you have already made. This prevents the wood from drying out too quickly and prevents splits and shrinkage. Linseed oil also protects against moisture and dirt. Run through the following steps:

  • Make sure that you thoroughly clean and dry the wooden parts. Remove dirt and grease as necessary using a filler-knife or pain-scraper (image 2). (NB: the photographs show part of a frame-timber that has previously been coated in linseed oil, being scraped clean again and re-coated in linseed oil.)
     
  • Now coat the wooden parts with a copious quantity of linseed oil using the flat brush (image 3). The linseed oil soaks into the wood slightly so don’t apply this too thinly.
     
  • The linseed oil remains slightly sticky (image 5). This means that dirt remains stuck in the linseed oil and is unable to penetrate into the wood.
     
  • Remove spilt linseed oil using a cleaning cloth in order to prevent everything becoming slippery and sticky. Make sure that you dispose of the cleaning cloths containing linseed oil immediately and that they are not left lying on sawdust or timber. Cleaning cloths containing linseed oil can start to get hot and cause a fire.
     
  • Wooden parts that are coated in linseed oil in this way will remain preserved for several months (image 7).
     
  • Before applying the final varnish or paint finish to the boat, remove the linseed oil using a filler-knife, scraper and sander.

 

 

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