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It's time for a new one. What sort of advice and things to know should I consider before I start making calls? I obviously know to give Rox a call. But some of the things I'm wondering...

1. Best time to replace? Could do it right now, but know the cold doesn't help the shingles bond. Spring seems ideal, but hail on a brand-new roof. Summers are hot enough to damage if walking on. I'm thinking May?

2. How are thing looking as far as supply chain? Is this a job where it's going to be 2-3 months before they can get to it?

3. Any ballpark on cost? Just regular single-story 1980's build in Austin. 1800 sq ft. Looking to do an architectural shingle.

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1 hour ago, FirstTimeCaller said:

It's time for a new one. What sort of advice and things to know should I consider before I start making calls? I obviously know to give Rox a call. But some of the things I'm wondering...

1. Best time to replace? Could do it right now, but know the cold doesn't help the shingles bond. Spring seems ideal, but hail on a brand-new roof. Summers are hot enough to damage if walking on. I'm thinking May?

2. How are thing looking as far as supply chain? Is this a job where it's going to be 2-3 months before they can get to it?

3. Any ballpark on cost? Just regular single-story 1980's build in Austin. 1800 sq ft. Looking to do an architectural shingle.

Have you checked with your insurance company to have an adjuster out since we had the big hailstorm on April 15, 2021?

 

 

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Had mine done a little over a year ago... 2 companies wouldn't give me a quote without seeing my insurance...crossed them off quick... if someone is offering to rebate or cover any of your deductible, just know it's against the law and if they are willing to do that, who know where else they are willing to cut corners.

2 companies would, one of which came back lower than my deductible (3%), in the business 30+ years hand nailed, good recommendations... I went with them paid out of pocket.

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49 minutes ago, Catpfish said:

Have you checked with your insurance company to have an adjuster out since we had the big hailstorm on April 15, 2021?

 

 

No, is this something I should do? Since we've been here we have had hail, but nothing that would really damage a roof. 

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23 minutes ago, woohorn said:
39 minutes ago, FirstTimeCaller said:
No, is this something I should do? Since we've been here we have had hail, but nothing that would really damage a roof. 

Pretty sure EVERYTHING damages a roof.

So kind of ties back to one of my original questions. Should I wait until Spring? Figure the odds of at least some hail are decent.

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3 hours ago, MonkeyDoughnut said:

Had mine done a little over a year ago... 2 companies wouldn't give me a quote without seeing my insurance...crossed them off quick... if someone is offering to rebate or cover any of your deductible, just know it's against the law and if they are willing to do that, who know where else they are willing to cut corners.

2 companies would, one of which came back lower than my deductible (3%), in the business 30+ years hand nailed, good recommendations... I went with them paid out of pocket.

Why would you not show the contractors your scope of loss?

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23 minutes ago, deadshank said:

Why would you not show the contractors your scope of loss?

It's mainly the principle of it as well as it tells me what type of contractor they are and if they are willing to bend the rules. I would based on their bids. I'm ok if they need to add a "we had to work with your insurance fee", but I'm not ok with playing the we'll bill your insurance company as much as possible as we'll even cover part of your deductible game..  They act like it's not my money they are getting from the insurance company. There is a reason property insurance rates have gone through the roof and it's games like these.  I had neighbors have theirs done from the same companies that wouldn't bid mine and their "quote" was 2- 2.5x what I paid, using the exact same brand/type/color shingles.

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I certainly understand the principle thing and unsavory contractors breaking rules by buying deductibles.

If your carrier pays out a certain amount and a contractor can do it for that amount then it is a square deal if you pay your deductible and the IC kicks in the rest up to the scope of loss amount.   The contractor should know what the scope of loss amount is. 
 

If you are looking to get “competitive” bids for the lowest price on an insurance claim then that is another issue altogether and makes zero sense.  (Caveat: you own your home outright and have no depreciation hold back to acknowledge and your IC cashes you out…the you can do what the heck you want and get the job down for as little as possible). 
 

If you got your roof done for less than the imputed value of your deductible the good for you. 

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On 1/31/2022 at 1:31 PM, FirstTimeCaller said:

It's time for a new one. What sort of advice and things to know should I consider before I start making calls? I obviously know to give Rox a call. But some of the things I'm wondering...

1. Best time to replace? Could do it right now, but know the cold doesn't help the shingles bond. Spring seems ideal, but hail on a brand-new roof. Summers are hot enough to damage if walking on. I'm thinking May?

2. How are thing looking as far as supply chain? Is this a job where it's going to be 2-3 months before they can get to it?

3. Any ballpark on cost? Just regular single-story 1980's build in Austin. 1800 sq ft. Looking to do an architectural shingle.

In no particular order:  "ballpark cost on a regular single story 1980's build 1,800 sq. ft." means little for what we do.  The measurement is on the "up & over", not the straight line of the concrete slab, etc.

The best thing is for you to check your PM & I'll have an offline chat with you regarding a lot of topics, related.

Best time to replace, you are definitely onto something.  Obv. hail is random & it can show up in random places & times.  We cannot predict much other than Spring has a higher possibility.  I have plenty of customers who want to wait until "season" is over so they don't have the probability of another strike, so... yeah.  & You are right about "dusting", where shingles don't bond due to colder temperatures & high wind can cause small bits of dirt & whatnot to get between the shingle courses.  As to the heat, we work 365 days a year if the conditions are right & even in the 100 degree summer days, we take breaks as needed.

Supply chain, we are actually doing a decent amount of Home Depot purchases & if it's a ground drop situation where we have to hand load anyhow (cannot load via boom truck due to trees, power or other lines) then a "wholesaler" isn't a possibility anyhow.  Also, HD is often lower priced on the same products that we find through the "wholesaler" (i.e. mostly only roofing products).  There ARE some specialty shingles that cannot come from HD (recently did roof for @joe dirt & his neighbor to the R - Pflugerville - we used a specific shingle that cannot come through HD unless a stupid high markup is added on.  The delay on the Atlas shingle was maybe 3 weeks IIRC & the current HD products is maybe 7 days on the longest.  For Central Texas Home Depot, it's Owens Corning & for Architectural / Dimensional shingles (30 year type shingles) with the Oakridge & Duration (Duration is a step above in the Dimensional line... thicker nail line, double cement line, etc).  Both are appropriate to use.

Depending on your various structure's particulars & product needs / wants, if we got a deposit today, the roof could go on inside of 10 days if needed.

Check your PM's.

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On 1/31/2022 at 4:34 PM, FirstTimeCaller said:

So kind of ties back to one of my original questions. Should I wait until Spring? Figure the odds of at least some hail are decent.

Don't forget that you usually only have a year from date of loss to file the claim.  The big Austin hailstorm was April 15th, so not sure how long you want to put it off.  I guess you could file the claim, get paid and wait to do the roof, but I'm not sure what happens if waiting a couple of months and the costs go up.

Edited by Catpfish
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Use a local contractor  that has been in business for several years in your city. Make sure your contractor is an approved installer for the brand of shingles you choose.

Use an ice and water shield peel and stick underlayment 3 feet around all penetrations, ridges, edges, valleys and eaves. Think of it as picture framing everything This is a northern detail but well worth the extra cost. This helps when ice and snow melts in your gutters with leaks along outside walls.

If you are concerned about hail, look into Malarky brand shingles. These shingles are made with ground up tires mixed with fiberglass and asphalt making a rubberized shingle that is hail resistant. There maybe other brands but this is the only brand I’m familiar. These usually come with a 30-40 year warranty. 

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@ROFL BOX

I have an old roof I’m trying to RE-shingle as I have time. It’s a simple gable roof with the minimum amount of slope.  One piece of sheathing needs to be replaced, and there are a few spots you can see had small leaks, but for the most part the rest of the sheathing is good.

How long do you think I can leave the sheathing exposed?  Original roof is at least 30 years old, probably closer to 50. I ask because next weekend I’m going to have a roll off and gut the inside, and I wanted to pull the shingles as well. But I still don’t have power, and with my schedule it may take me 6 weeks to get down there (and the TWI rep) to finish it. I know new built houses go months with the wood exposed.  If you have any insight, would be much appreciated. 
 

Edit - I guess another way I could attack it is to just put another layer over as there is only one layer now. I know I have to get that approved first. Who do I ask first - engineer?

Edited by UT_OB1
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On 2/6/2022 at 10:48 AM, UT_OB1 said:

@ROFL BOX

I have an old roof I’m trying to RE-shingle as I have time. It’s a simple gable roof with the minimum amount of slope.  One piece of sheathing needs to be replaced, and there are a few spots you can see had small leaks, but for the most part the rest of the sheathing is good.

How long do you think I can leave the sheathing exposed?  You're gonna want to cover that with a synthetic vapor barrier (better than the common felt).  Those products are rated for approx. 6 months exposure.  That will give you the time you need.  Original roof is at least 30 years old, probably closer to 50.   There are a wide variety of possible products that were installed... could even be an organic shingle.  Until I see a pic, I cannot comment.  Are the shingles "potato chip" or "corn flake" looking?  If so, that's a shingle that has gone well past it's expected life span & is a freakin' BITCH to tear off because they crumble in your hands... like maybe 5x the actual effort required.  Many trips to move trash.  A crazy hassle.   I ask because next weekend I’m going to have a roll off and gut the inside, and I wanted to pull the shingles as well. But I still don’t have power, and with my schedule it may take me 6 weeks to get down there (and the TWI rep) to finish it. I know new built houses go months with the wood exposed.  If you have any insight, would be much appreciated. Except for running a compressor, how is this needed for tear-off?  Also, what is a "TWI rep"?

Edit - I guess another way I could attack it is to just put another layer over as there is only one layer now. I know I have to get that approved first. Who do I ask first - engineer? 

Do not layover unless you:

1.  Absolutely have to because you are 100% broke. 

2.  Absolutely know what you're doing re: starting 1st course, proper cuts for ridge cap, know if your structural design can hold the added weight, know what the decking condition is like everywhere. 

3.  On average, a layover is only gonna save you maybe $ 15 (maximum) per square.  I.E. if it was a generic double wide mobile home type size, that's probably $ 450 to $ 550 savings at most.  Don't.

Line item responses in bold.

@FirstTimeCaller, did you get my PM?

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7 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Line item responses in bold.

@FirstTimeCaller, did you get my PM?

Sorry - TDI.  Want to get it insured afterwards. The shingles aren’t that bad.  I meant the roof framing - as far as I know - is the original from when it was built. The shingles are only about 20 years old.  It looks like they attempted to reroof in early 2000s but something didn’t pass inspection. Since then, a limb from one of the branches of a massive oak that is sitting on the counties property put a hole in one corner. 
 

You’re right, power is not needed right this second to remove old shingles, but I won’t be able to put the new shingles ups for a bit.  Didn’t realize the vapor barriers were good that long.  That will do the trick. I’ll get that up next weekend.  Thank you for the help. 

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Had ours done last month (NW Florida), 1800 sq ft and cost was $14.9K (cash price). Job took 4 guys 3.5 days and the only issues we had was our first few color selections were not a available.
Before and after below297d2b855c1a42686ea28b63812702cd.jpg6cf13acd7aa3776cb0cb3712216ebd25.jpg

What shingles are those, what sand blaster cabinet is that and how big of a compressor does it take to run it?
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What shingles are those, what sand blaster cabinet is that and how big of a compressor does it take to run it?
Shingles are made by Pinnacle and the color is Majestic shake.
Sandblast cabinet is harbor freight w/ some mods I've done to it. I've got it hooked up to my 60G Husky, it will run off a smaller one though. However, I blast a lot of car parts and I needed something that would keep up. Stickers make it blast better
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Shingles are made by

**Atlas** & are the PINNACLE PRISTINE variety that has an extended algae resistance & carries the "ScotchGuard" brand name.

The color is Majestic shake which is in the "StormMaster" line.

This is the Atlas Class IV product that carries an ASTM wind & impact rating.



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On 2/7/2022 at 1:30 PM, ROFL BOX said:

Line item responses in bold.

@FirstTimeCaller, did you get my PM?

All the synthetics I’m seeing at HD say they are only good for 30 days exposure. Is that just cya on their brochure, or is there some better version not available at HD or Lowe’s?

 

For example 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-48-in-x-250-ft-1000-sq-ft-Synthetic-Roofing-Underlayment-SLG4250LWE/206996596

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-ProArmor-1001-sq-ft-Synthetic-Roofing-Underlayment-Roll-PROA21/302659836
 

 

 

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All the synthetics I’m seeing at HD say they are only good for 30 days exposure. Is that just cya on their brochure, or is there some better version not available at HD or Lowe’s?
 
For example 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-48-in-x-250-ft-1000-sq-ft-Synthetic-Roofing-Underlayment-SLG4250LWE/206996596
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-ProArmor-1001-sq-ft-Synthetic-Roofing-Underlayment-Roll-PROA21/302659836
 
 
 
I have always heard they were long lasting & use then often for a temporary repair until the insurance company can get an adjuster out to inspect & write their estimate.

I think I have had one covered with the Grip Rite product for around 3 months while we argued with the insurer over their shit-tacular estimate.

Either way, they are better than the common felt products.

Lays smoother, more flat & if if you have to leave any of it on overnight to work the roof the next day, felt will wrinkle a LOT due to condensation whereas this stuff will not suffer the moisture.

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On 2/9/2022 at 1:57 PM, ROFL BOX said:

I have always heard they were long lasting & use then often for a temporary repair until the insurance company can get an adjuster out to inspect & write their estimate.

I think I have had one covered with the Grip Rite product for around 3 months while we argued with the insurer over their shit-tacular estimate.

Either way, they are better than the common felt products.

Lays smoother, more flat & if if you have to leave any of it on overnight to work the roof the next day, felt will wrinkle a LOT due to condensation whereas this stuff will not suffer the moisture.

Sent from my SM-A326U1 using Tapatalk
 

Underlayment was no problem. Thanks. 
 

Ready for shingles. We’re just going 3 tab. Home Depot’s standard Owen Corning stuff is $26 per 33.3 sqft bundle (10% off over 48 bundles). That a fair enough price, or worth shopping around ?  

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Underlayment was no problem. Thanks. 
 
Ready for shingles. We’re just going 3 tab. Home Depot’s standard Owen Corning stuff is $26 per 33.3 sqft bundle (10% off over 48 bundles). That a fair enough price, or worth shopping around ?  
Labor costs are identical for a 3T vs. Dimensional.

Parts difference is maybe $ 5.00 / square.

Don't cheap out - get the 30 year product.

Also, did you ever receive my PM?

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43 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

Labor costs are identical for a 3T vs. Dimensional.

Parts difference is maybe $ 5.00 / square.

Don't cheap out - get the 30 year product.

Also, did you ever receive my PM?

Sent from my SM-A326U1 using Tapatalk

 

No, no pm that I can tell. 

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19 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Labor costs are identical for a 3T vs. Dimensional.

Parts difference is maybe $ 5.00 / square.

Don't cheap out - get the 30 year product.

Also, did you ever receive my PM?

Sent from my SM-A326U1 using Tapatalk

 

Does architectural = dimensional on shingles?  If so, best price I’m getting from HD is about $18 per square more (~25%). Is it worth it on a triplex that will be a rental?

Also, I’d like to add I hate the term/unit of measurement that is squares. 

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1 hour ago, UT_OB1 said:

Does architectural = dimensional on shingles?  If so, best price I’m getting from HD is about $18 per square more (~25%). Is it worth it on a triplex that will be a rental?

Also, I’d like to add I hate the term/unit of measurement that is squares. 

Where is the project?  Has this already been discussed?  Don't make me read 38 prior posts... I'm lazy & need to get the docs finished for another Shagger... shouldn't even be in here screwing around.

$ 12.00 per square... so I was off a bit, but def. not $ 18 per square.  & it's even less $$ difference on a "bulk" purchase (16 squares or more).  & If I buy through the "Bid Room" the other items on the ticket will also cost less... vapor barrier, lead jacks, correct sized drip edge, silicone, ridge vent, starter, nails, etc.

Also... imagine this:  in 15 years you're selling the property.  50% of the life span left (15 more years) vs. only 5 years., or 25%.

 

image.thumb.png.902b7a2560cf851c454a74358ae241d2.png

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Does architectural = dimensional on shingles?  If so, best price I’m getting from HD is about $18 per square more (~25%). Is it worth it on a triplex that will be a rental?
Also, I’d like to add I hate the term/unit of measurement that is squares. 

Well, it’s talking about square feet of coverage.
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