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Yellowstone


Moby Ric

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We did Jackson Hole and Yellowstone last summer, staying inside park for a few days.  Going to Hayden Valley and seeing all wildlife at dusk is a must.  Saw all kinds of wildlife while drinking wine.

What to bring if you stay in park? Binoculars and low expectations on quality of food at restaurants.

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  • 1 month later...

I have some other potential stops along this route for you that are great and will avoid the crowds of the national parks, but I'll hold off unless you want them.


Decided not to cancel or re-route our trip, despite the recent flood. The tour guide we hired for a day in Yellowstone says it won’t have any impact on the tour they have planned for us. However, based on the odd/even license plate entrance thing they’ve put in place, we’ve got one day in West Yellowstone where we won’t be able to drive our rental car into the park. I looked at your Mesa Falls Scenic Byway detour recommendations on Google maps, and that looks like a fun detour for our trip up from SLC. I’m not sure if it’ll fill an entire day though. Looking for some ideas that would that don’t involve driving into the park. I wish Glacier were a day trip from there but no such luck.


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Have you looked into whether there are any campsites available on the date you will be there and can't get into the park?  If so, you could always reserve the campsite and use that to get into the park.  I think they cost $40 or something like that?

Also, there are plenty of hiking trails just outside of West Yellowstone.  Bacon Rind Creek Trail and Bighorn Pass Trail are both cool, not very steep, not heavily trafficked and they are actually in Yellowstone, you just don't have to go through the park gate to reach them.  Beautiful country, but bring bear spray.      

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Have you looked into whether there are any campsites available on the date you will be there and can't get into the park?  If so, you could always reserve the campsite and use that to get into the park.  I think they cost $40 or something like that?
Also, there are plenty of hiking trails just outside of West Yellowstone.  Bacon Rind Creek Trail and Bighorn Pass Trail are both cool, not very steep, not heavily trafficked and they are actually in Yellowstone, you just don't have to go through the park gate to reach them.  Beautiful country, but bring bear spray.      

Our campsite will be an RV park in West Yellowstone. Not much availability for RV parking spots in the park at this point. I haven’t checked since the flood though.

Thanks for the recs on trails!

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18 minutes ago, Bob Lives! said:


Our campsite will be an RV park in West Yellowstone. Not much availability for RV parking spots in the park at this point. I haven’t checked since the flood though.

Thanks for the recs on trails!

Latest entrants in the bison petting zoo game:

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I thought you were renting a car while in West Yellowstone?  What I was suggesting was to book a campsite and show the reservation at the park gate.  The reservation will let you regardless of your license plate and then you are good for the day.  As much as I like things outside the park, I would strongly consider going into the park proper if you think you might not be back anytime soon.  The campsite reservations aren't very expensive.

Regarding trails outside the park proper (like Bacon Rind and Bighorn Pass), there really are a bunch to choose from in all directions from West Yellowstone.  Check out alltrails.com to look for trails in the area that might be specifically suited for what your family is looking for.  Also, just a word of caution on Bighorn Pass, the Gallatin Bear Management Area starts about 6 miles up the trail.  They want you to hike in groups of 4 and not get off the trail in this area.  I doubt you would be going that far with kids and the status as a bear management area doesn't keep me from going there, but just wanted you to be aware.  Lastly, if you are going to be hiking in Yellowstone, check the backcountry situation report on the park's website before you go.  Lots of good information there that might sway you in one direction or another on a hike.  For example, if there is a report of a fresh carcass at the trail you want to hike that day, I would consider Plan B.     

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I thought you were renting a car while in West Yellowstone?  What I was suggesting was to book a campsite and show the reservation at the park gate.  The reservation will let you regardless of your license plate and then you are good for the day.  As much as I like things outside the park, I would strongly consider going into the park proper if you think you might not be back anytime soon.  The campsite reservations aren't very expensive.
Regarding trails outside the park proper (like Bacon Rind and Bighorn Pass), there really are a bunch to choose from in all directions from West Yellowstone.  Check out alltrails.com to look for trails in the area that might be specifically suited for what your family is looking for.  Also, just a word of caution on Bighorn Pass, the Gallatin Bear Management Area starts about 6 miles up the trail.  They want you to hike in groups of 4 and not get off the trail in this area.  I doubt you would be going that far with kids and the status as a bear management area doesn't keep me from going there, but just wanted you to be aware.  Lastly, if you are going to be hiking in Yellowstone, check the backcountry situation report on the park's website before you go.  Lots of good information there that might sway you in one direction or another on a hike.  For example, if there is a report of a fresh carcass at the trail you want to hike that day, I would consider Plan B.     

Ah, gaming the system! Understood. I’ll look into that.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/27/2022 at 10:50 AM, Bob Lives! said:

 


Decided not to cancel or re-route our trip, despite the recent flood. The tour guide we hired for a day in Yellowstone says it won’t have any impact on the tour they have planned for us. However, based on the odd/even license plate entrance thing they’ve put in place, we’ve got one day in West Yellowstone where we won’t be able to drive our rental car into the park. I looked at your Mesa Falls Scenic Byway detour recommendations on Google maps, and that looks like a fun detour for our trip up from SLC. I’m not sure if it’ll fill an entire day though. Looking for some ideas that would that don’t involve driving into the park. I wish Glacier were a day trip from there but no such luck.


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An extension to the Mesa Falls trip is a turnoff from Idaho Hwy. 47 to Cave Falls.  Cave Falls is located in the very SW corner of Yellowstone NP and is accessible only from a direct road from ID Hwy. 47 into the park, i.e., you can't get there from the loops that most folks travel within Yellowstone.  It's a really pretty area because Yellowstone NP drains out here, hence the waterfall.  Bechler River and Falls River merge at this point and it is an easy one-mile hike to their confluence.  This area of the park is prime grizzly habitat, but I've found the biggest threat to be mosquitos.  Take along spray for both.  The drive from ID Hwy. 47 to the park is partially paved, then gravel, and finally paved again once you enter the park.  There will be some wash-boarding and a few potholes, but just take it easy on the drive and you'll do fine.  The combination of Cave Falls-Lower Mesa Falls-Upper Mesa Falls takes up a large chunk of a day, especially if you do an hour or so of hiking in Yellowstone.  If you are also driving up from SLC that same day, you won't have time for all of this.

As an aside, I returned from the Yellowstone area a couple of weeks ago.  The Yellowstone flooding occurred the day we departed from Austin so needless to say our camping/fishing trip up there was severely modified.  One spot we landed for a few nights of camping was Flaming Gorge in Utah.  Since you are coming out of SLC, this is a convenient spot with lots of good camp sites.  It is also a popular dinosaur dig and research area, so there are several good museums that kids and adults will enjoy.

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  • 9 months later...

The extended family is going this summer (early July.)   Four families (8 adults) with kids (13 in total) ranging from 27 down to 4.  The original idea was for everyone to go glamping.   There's an operation that has 2 Yellowstone locations; One near Gardiner and the other out past West Yellowstone.   My bunch will be 7 people and the max per glamp tent is 6.   The glamp sites run between $600 and $1000 a night for the roof over your head and the mattress you sleep on.   You can get a private bath if you pay for it, cooking is limited to an open fire with whatever you bought for that meal (no fridge or storage space) or their cafe/restaurant.   For that much money, they better be feeding us 3 meals a day and carting my ass around the Park on excursions.   

My bunch is flying in/out of Jackson and we'll have about a day and half down there (2 nights) at the end before we fly back out.   I wish we had another 2 whole days in Jackson but I was overruled.  We are renting a house out near Henry's Lake for the first 3-4 nights with one of the other couples and then on the north side by ourselves for the next couple of nights.   We'll be on fairly close proximity to where everyone else is glamping (they are moving from the west side to the north side on the 3rd or 4th night.)  Pretty sure we'll be feeding most of the others for dinners.  

The Macanudo-ettes and I visited YNP when they were both much younger (3 and 5).   Neither remembers anything and my oldest isn't going this time but it will still be a good time.   I was limited as to what we could do last time with two little kids by myself so I'm looking forward to going back even if I'm older and more worn down.

With 21 people and a variety of active, sloths and in between it should be a good trip.   We'll have everything documented on what we "can do" and then we'll see who wants to do what.   Obviously, the easy things like Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic Springs will get seen.  I'm personally just looking forward to be outdoors away from the city with decent (non-humid) weather.   Normal highs should be in the mid 70s and lows that are cool enough to make early morning hikes fun.   My plan is to be on a trail far away from the crowds as much as possible.   

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Bumping this.   I have an old dog eared Yellowstone travel guide from our 2010 trip along with several hard copies of maps.   We'll do the normal stuff like Mammoth Hot Springs, Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic (but from the Fairy Falls trail overlook), Upper and Lower Falls.   What I am curious about is anything that might be outside the general park that would be interesting.   95% of our 2010 trip was spent at the main highlights.   LTBear gave me good tips some of the wildlife spotting areas.   

One thing in particular I was curious about was Cave Falls and Bechler Falls on the far SW side of the park.   Obviously, these two are very different because of their width rather than height.   But it looks like a good day trip without lots of people.  Personally I woud love to go even farther on to Dunanda Falls but my group won't be interested due to the distance.

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14 hours ago, Macanudo said:

Bumping this.   I have an old dog eared Yellowstone travel guide from our 2010 trip along with several hard copies of maps.   We'll do the normal stuff like Mammoth Hot Springs, Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic (but from the Fairy Falls trail overlook), Upper and Lower Falls.   What I am curious about is anything that might be outside the general park that would be interesting.   95% of our 2010 trip was spent at the main highlights.   LTBear gave me good tips some of the wildlife spotting areas.   

One thing in particular I was curious about was Cave Falls and Bechler Falls on the far SW side of the park.   Obviously, these two are very different because of their width rather than height.   But it looks like a good day trip without lots of people.  Personally I woud love to go even farther on to Dunanda Falls but my group won't be interested due to the distance.

@Pato del Muerto

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@Macanudo

I lived off of the east gate so my knowledge of Jackson, west Yellowstone, and gardiner is limited. 
 

that said, https://www.wildlifeart.org/ is in Jackson. I’ve driven by but not been inside so I can’t comment on its worth. 
 

Just outside the east gate there is a zip line attraction.  https://www.skisg.com/. It’s not nearly the most dramatic scenery in the park area but it’s something different that some might enjoy, and you could hit the lake butte overlook on the way. It’s probably an hour drive off of the loop road though. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Trip Report: We ended up with 19 people overall between 4 families coming from Houston, Chicago, Denver and Norfolk.  The 1st three nights were spent on the west side.  My family rented a cabin on Henry's Lake (Island Park, ID.)  The rest of our group stayed at Under Canvas (glamping) between Island Park and West Yellowstone.  

United jacked with our flights weeks before we even left so we didn't get into Jackson until 9:00.   By the time we got our luggage/rental it was around 10:00 and we had a 2 hours drive up to the cabin.   Someone in my party forgot to tell us that the whole group was going on a tour the next day (July 2) and we were meeting at 6:30 a.m.

Very glad that we did the tour because 2 vans instead of 3-4 of our own vehicles was the way to do it.   Jack and Jackson from Casanova Tours were really great.   We saw a lot of the "touristy" stuff like Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic (from the Fairy Falls overlook), Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, etc.  Traffic on the 2nd was pretty nuts but that was to be expected for a holiday week/weekend. We lunched by the Madison River (part of the tour cost.)  If you have never been to Yellowstone, I recommend spending the money and doing a tour.  It is worth it.  

On the 3rd, my car load headed south from Island Park and checked out Mesa Falls down near Ashton.     Those falls (Upper and Lower) are pretty cool and there are some paths in/around that get you out into the wild.   We stopped at Harriman Ranch State Park but didn't spend much time there.  

The 4th was a travel day as we moved from Island Park to Gardiner.   We went up through Big Sky/Bozeman instead of driving throught the park.   Traffic and speed limits made that an easy decision.   It helps that the drive between West Yellowstone and Bozeman is scenic.   Bozeman has a decent (but also a tourist trap) downtown.  We had lunch and stretched our legs.  My family and one of the others stayed together in a rental off of Jardine Road in Gardiner.   It was walkable to Main Street and a great location.  There were 4 bedrooms and 9 of us had plenty of space.  We fed all 19 each night we were there (4 nights).   The other two familes stayed elsewhere in Gardiner.  

On the 5th we met back up with Jack and Jackson at Mammoth Hot Springs (5:00 a.m. this time) to go back into the park on a wildlife spotting tour.  We headed toward the Lamar Valley and saw 5-6 grizzlies, 1 wollf, one black bear and obviously a shit ton of bison.  Again, this was worth it.  These guys know where the wildlife will be and had spotting scopes.   We got "close" to 2 grizzlies and the black bear.  By close I mean 100 yards or so.   We didn't do any fucking around and finding out.   We ended that day with a picnic lunch at Mammoth (also part of the tour cost.)  

On the 6th the whole group rented e-bikes and rode over to Yellowstone Hot Springs.   This is about a 20 mile round trip on the Old Yellowstone Trail (gravel).   Fairly easy e-bike ride but it is a bit bumpy.  One of our group got about a mile out from the rental place and decided it was not for them.  She and I rode back to the rental shop and just drove over to Springs.   The hot springs is kind of a misnomer as the water is piped into pools that are plastered.   They have a cool spring (around 60-65 degrees), a warmer one at around 100 degrees and then a hot one at 104 degrees.   It was overall worth it and everyone enjoyed the ride and the springs.  

On the 7th, 9 of us went back to the Upper/Lower Falls of the Yellowstone.  The plan was to take the South Rim trail along the Yellowstone from Chittenden Bridge to Artist's Point.  Weather interfered  so we only got around a mile in before heading back to the cars.   We ended up just driving down to Artist's Point.    That is a spectacular view back to up the valley.  

The 8th was another travel day for my group.   We were flying back out of Jackson the 10th.   We went back through Bozeman, West Yellowstone and Island Park.   Got to Jackson around 5:00 and tooled around the Square and ate dinner.   

On the 9th, I got up around 5:00 a.m. and drove up to the Mormon Row and took pictures as the sun came up on the Tetons.   After everybody got up and moving, we headed over to Teton Village.  There's not a whole lot going on over there and it's relatively small but we ate a late lunch and then took the Bridger Gondola up for the view.   Drove the Inner Park Road through the N.P. and stopped at Jenny Lake for a bit.   Overall, we just didn't have much time to do anything else in that park.

Obviously taking that many people really changes the travel dynamic.   Grocery stores in/near Island Park/West Yellowstone were hit and miss/expensive but that was to be expected.   Sam Patch Grocery in Island Park was the nicest in that area.  Gardiner's grocery store was very well stocked (food and booze).   I definitely want to go back to Jackson and use that as a home base for Grand Tetons.   The whole area is just amazing.  

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  • 4 months later...

Hoping to give this a bounce and get the thoughts of others with more experience.

So this may be insane, and if so tell me the reasons!  (I did come up with this idea last night after a few adult beverages)

Long story short is we have a big trip planned at the beginning of Summer, and that's gonna cut into the wife's vacay to the point I am thinking of doing a travel trailer tour on my own, with possibly my daughter working my way up to Yellowstone over a week.  Then having the wife fly into Bozeman or Jackson hole. So she can enjoy the park for a week, not burning dwindling vacation driving with me in the travel trailer. Thinking of that second to last weekend in August to actually be in Yellowstone area. I am totally flexible, beyond needing a space for the trailer.  I about to reserve a spot at Fishing Bridge RV park, which actually has full hookups, for like $100 a night during the time I am thinking, just as a safety to have make sure I have a slot if this pans out.  The ability to drop the trailer and have a home base with all our amenities is appealing. The long haul for me? Not as much, but I could so some stuff up and back that the wife would not be as interested in.  So thoughts here would be good as well.

So how should I do this? Should I just drop the trailer and use the Fishing Bridge RV park as a week long home base?  Or am I better off perhaps staying there a day or two and stay near (but outside the park) to be nearer to other parts of the park?  We mainly just want to hike and take in nature.  Will likely do most stuff on our own as we will be up and rolling like fisherman to be where we need to be to be at the front end of the crowds.  Going right as school starts is part of this thought process.  I have a National park pass so I can go in and out from outside the park as easy as staying in the park depending on what we are doing on any given day.

So what are your thoughts?  Assuming I am crazy enough to make that drive solo.  I am totally flexible and wondering what I have to do inside the park, and spots of interest on the way there and back to make my travel not monotonous.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/17/2023 at 9:06 AM, horn4life said:

Hoping to give this a bounce and get the thoughts of others with more experience.

So this may be insane, and if so tell me the reasons!  (I did come up with this idea last night after a few adult beverages)

Long story short is we have a big trip planned at the beginning of Summer, and that's gonna cut into the wife's vacay to the point I am thinking of doing a travel trailer tour on my own, with possibly my daughter working my way up to Yellowstone over a week.  Then having the wife fly into Bozeman or Jackson hole. So she can enjoy the park for a week, not burning dwindling vacation driving with me in the travel trailer. Thinking of that second to last weekend in August to actually be in Yellowstone area. I am totally flexible, beyond needing a space for the trailer.  I about to reserve a spot at Fishing Bridge RV park, which actually has full hookups, for like $100 a night during the time I am thinking, just as a safety to have make sure I have a slot if this pans out.  The ability to drop the trailer and have a home base with all our amenities is appealing. The long haul for me? Not as much, but I could so some stuff up and back that the wife would not be as interested in.  So thoughts here would be good as well.

So how should I do this? Should I just drop the trailer and use the Fishing Bridge RV park as a week long home base?  Or am I better off perhaps staying there a day or two and stay near (but outside the park) to be nearer to other parts of the park?  We mainly just want to hike and take in nature.  Will likely do most stuff on our own as we will be up and rolling like fisherman to be where we need to be to be at the front end of the crowds.  Going right as school starts is part of this thought process.  I have a National park pass so I can go in and out from outside the park as easy as staying in the park depending on what we are doing on any given day.

So what are your thoughts?  Assuming I am crazy enough to make that drive solo.  I am totally flexible and wondering what I have to do inside the park, and spots of interest on the way there and back to make my travel not monotonous.  

If you're going to be there for a full week (or close to it), you should be fine using Fishing Bridge as a base, as long as you don't mind some semi-long driving days to other parts of the park and back (2-4 hours or so).  Getting up early is absolutely the best idea and you'll also see the most wildlife that way.  Hit Lamar Valley at like 5am.  It's amazing.

I've done the drive up from Austin and it's also beautiful, especially if you can hit some of the Utah/Colorado parks along the way.  

@Pato del Muerto probably has the best info

Edited by Biff Tannen
also, download the GuideAlong app and buy the Yellowstone/Grand Teton tour with it. Utah parks etc too, if you want to hit those parks on the way up
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@horn4life

fishing bridge is probably a 2.5 hour drive to Jackson, if you don’t stop along the way.  The roads are 45 mph but between looking at stuff yourself, wildlife blocking the road, and others in front of you driving slowly so look around, you can’t count on any set speed. 
 

I’ve done the drive to/from Austin to the area. Each time I did it in 3 days- basically austin to Lubbock or amarillo, then over raton pass and up to Pueblo or denver, then up to cody. Add about 90 minutes to get from Cody to fishing bridge if you don’t stop to sightsee. And you will want to do that. 
 

if you go that way there’s a neat little drive through wind river canyon just south of thermopolis WY, and if the daughter is with you and you or her like paleontology there’s a great dinosaur museum there. If she’s the right age, they even have signs ups to dig a little at a site. 
 

in the park itself, I’m not a big fan of old faithful. Very crowded and not worth it unless you want to say you saw it. 
 

fishing bridge has a big general store and restaurant so it’s not a bad place to be next to.  I’m mostly unfamiliar with rv parks outside the park, but if you want to hit lamar valley super early, as you should, I’d look and see what is in Cooke City, WY. 

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8 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

Oh and the Cody airport (Yellowstone regional) would be the closest to fishing bridge, if that’s the important part of your lady flying up. Delta flys there through salt lake and United through Denver.   But there’s value in driving through the Tetons too. 

I've never done it, but the flights into Jackson airport weren't that expensive either, last I checked. 

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45 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

I've never done it, but the flights into Jackson airport weren't that expensive either, last I checked. 

There's not an "easy" option to fly into the Yellowstone area without some driving/possible layovers depending on the airline.   United flies direct into Jackson from IAH and Jackson/the Tetons is worth a day or 4 on their own.  

As for home basing from Fishing Bridge, one thing you could use it for is the early morning days.   Even if you plan on getting up early, you still have lots of driving from West Yellowstone, Gardiner or wherever to get into the park and around it.  Why not spend the night(s) in the camper when you want to get an early start?  Plan 2 or 3 nights there and have some camping fun.   There's not a whole lot to do in Gardiner or West Yellowstone other than spend the night any ways.   If you don't get out super early, you still don't have to deal with the traffic getting into the park.   There will still be taffic in the park but those entrances , epecially West Yellowstone, can suck some days.

 

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22 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

I've never done it, but the flights into Jackson airport weren't that expensive either, last I checked. 

Airport is great too. I will say rental cars are high, especially if you need an SUV. When we were there this summer in June they were running 5-600 a day ($3500/wk) when we were there (vs 140 for car)

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1 hour ago, MonkeyDoughnut said:

Airport is great too. I will say rental cars are high, especially if you need an SUV. When we were there this summer in June they were running 5-600 a day ($3500/wk) when we were there (vs 140 for car)

The Jackson airport is a very nice airport.   I planned pretty far in advance and paid far less than that for a full size SUV this summer.  I think my total was around $1800 with alll the fees and taxes.

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