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Thank you.

 

She has 91k miles, looks like they have replaced plugs, flushed the radiator, coolant flush, repalced coolant line and its in excellent condition. There is one piece of rust on the undercarriage but it looks very minimal. 

 

Anything else you notice that I should contact them about?

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-toyota-4runner-28/

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3 hours ago, Chewbacca said:
On 12/23/2020 at 8:15 AM, deadshank said:
If he doesn’t haul anything then he deserves the ragging. 

I don't know how he deals with parking it. Talk about a land yacht. F350 dually with quad cab and long bed.

The last two times I’ve traded, I’ve walked in with a plan to buy an F250 and walked out with another F150. The new ones are just too long for everyday use where I still have to drive on occasion.

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21 hours ago, TechTech said:

Thank you.

 

She has 91k miles, looks like they have replaced plugs, flushed the radiator, coolant flush, repalced coolant line and its in excellent condition. There is one piece of rust on the undercarriage but it looks very minimal. 

 

Anything else you notice that I should contact them about?

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-toyota-4runner-28/

Any idea what something like this should be valued at? I feel like at its base they’re worth around 6500-7000 but this has some decent add ons. Thank you in advance.

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20 hours ago, Brew said:

The last two times I’ve traded, I’ve walked in with a plan to buy an F250 and walked out with another F150. The new ones are just too long for everyday use where I still have to drive on occasion.

I haven’t noticed any issues, but I also live in a place where full parking lots don’t happen so I can always either pull through or park a little further out.  

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On 12/25/2020 at 1:11 PM, TechTech said:

Thank you.

 

She has 91k miles, looks like they have replaced plugs, flushed the radiator, coolant flush, repalced coolant line and its in excellent condition. There is one piece of rust on the undercarriage but it looks very minimal. 

 

Anything else you notice that I should contact them about?

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-toyota-4runner-28/

I’ve got a 2002 and I’m pretty familiar with them; great vehicles! Big things that you need to look for are replaced ball joints; replaced radiator (look up pink milkshake). Manual transmissions are preferred and 1999 had a dealer option for a rear locker which is also highly desirable. Spend 20 minutes reading the link below and it will save you a lot of trouble:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html

 

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35 minutes ago, cknight said:

I’ve got a 2002 and I’m pretty familiar with them; great vehicles! Big things that you need to look for are replaced ball joints; replaced radiator (look up pink milkshake). Manual transmissions are preferred and 1999 had a dealer option for a rear locker which is also highly desirable. Spend 20 minutes reading the link below and it will save you a lot of trouble:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html

 

Thank my man I will look for sure. Taking. A Quick look at the vehicle are you able to give a reasonable price that should be paid. I see some of these go for 15k.

Edited by TechTech
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I have a 97 I bought in April of 2019 for $4000.

1E09536A-AEDE-4644-BD9C-BFD6928BEF5D.jpe

Interior on the one you're looking at is much nicer than mine, and mine has 200k miles on it, so I'd consider $8k for that one a good deal.

I've replaced the brakes, head gasket, alternator, tires, put in a stereo and reupholstered the front seats in leather. So I've put about $4k into it. I work from home now so it sits several days a week. Not sure I'd want to commute in it. I test drove a new 4runner and a 2015 before I bought this one. Other than the seats being ripped up and the stereo there wasn't a whole lot of difference in the 97 compared to the 2015, and I decided it was worth saving 20k to get the old one and put a little money into it.

Mine was one of the cheapest on CL in Austin, others ranged from $5k-$15k. Every other one I called about was sold before I got a chance to look at them.

I did all the things listed above in the first few months I got it. It's run without an issue for a year and a half since then. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, TechTech said:

Thank my man I will look for sure. Taking. A Quick look at the vehicle are you able to give a reasonable price that should be paid. I see some of these go for 15k.

I don’t want to mess up this thread but giving it a quick look I bet that 99 will be going for 11-13k on BAT. Super low miles; clean interior etc. The only things I would look at on that one would be rust from an Ohio truck. The underbody had been painted which makes leery. As black lab said; I did brakes, timing belt; fluid change etc when I bought mine.

Expensive items on 3rd gens are rack and pinion; timing belt. Brakes I would recommend doing the tundra brake upgrade as 3rd gen rotors are undersized and prone to warping

I apologize for the long reply

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38 minutes ago, cknight said:

The only things I would look at on that one would be rust from an Ohio truck. The underbody had been painted which makes leery. 

This was my first thought as well.  I know TechTech said he only saw one spot of rust, but I would be looking over the undercarriage very, very closely, esp. given the undercoating that was applied at some point.  Winter driving, with all the snow, sand and salt, can be very problematic from a rust standpoint.  Otherwise, looks like a pretty sweet deal at the current bid level. 

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11 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

I haven’t noticed any issues, but I also live in a place where full parking lots don’t happen so I can always either pull through or park a little further out.  

I run a lot of highway miles (30k+ a year on each of our vehicles) and still have to visit Memphis/Nashville somewhat regularly for work. I’m not having to mess with parking garages much any more, so the 3rd time may be the charm. I do wish they made a shorter wheelbase version.

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I run a lot of highway miles (30k+ a year on each of our vehicles) and still have to visit Memphis/Nashville somewhat regularly for work. I’m not having to mess with parking garages much any more, so the 3rd time may be the charm. I do wish they made a shorter wheelbase version.
Shorter wheelbase negatively affects towing.
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35 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:
43 minutes ago, Brew said:
I run a lot of highway miles (30k+ a year on each of our vehicles) and still have to visit Memphis/Nashville somewhat regularly for work. I’m not having to mess with parking garages much any more, so the 3rd time may be the charm. I do wish they made a shorter wheelbase version.

Shorter wheelbase negatively affects towing.

I’m not looking for several feet shorter, but the 6 inches or so they have grown over the last 5-10 years feels like more than it measures out to be. Let me see what one looks like with a little less room in the back seat and/or a shorter bed and if I give up 1000 pounds of towing capacity I’ll survive.

Checked the towing numbers and the regular cab has a higher towing capacity than the super cab.

Edited by Brew
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On 12/27/2020 at 8:18 AM, TwiceHorn said:

i believe that's a spare tire hanger.  Not sure why it has an air horn mounted on it at the top, tho.

Even I knew that! 
 

Separately, came to say I took the old F350 for country drive today.  She’s like a old loyal pup, needs a walk every now and again and is super appreciate of any attention she gets.  Listened to the old style diesel clatter and classic country over the top of it and just meandered around, got a tank of gas and came home. Complete waste of time, it was glorious. 

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On 12/27/2020 at 11:23 AM, texas08 said:

I don’t know shit about rust, other than the undercarriage of that truck was painted black for a reason.

Looks like they failed to remove the tire to paint that piece. If that’s a sample of how the rest of truck was prior to the black paint....

This. Even with only 90,000 miles, a 21 year old truck that spent its life in Ohio it’s going to be a rust bucket. They painted the undercarriage black to hide all the rust but they failed to remove spare tire when they did it. That area where the spare tire should be is what the rest of the frame actually looks like underneath that later of rattle can spray paint. 

At some point the age of the truck matters as much as the miles. Hoses get brittle, metal corrodes, etc... all irrespective of the mileage driven. 
 

I bought a 20 year old vehicle recently but I would not have bought it if it had spent its life in that part of the country. They don’t call it the rust belt for nothing.

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This. Even with only 90,000 miles, a 21 year old truck that spent its life in Ohio it’s going to be a rust bucket. They painted the undercarriage black to hide all the rust but they failed to remove spare tire when they did it. That area where the spare tire should be is what the rest of the frame actually looks like underneath that later of rattle can spray paint. 

At some point the age of the truck matters as much as the miles. Hoses get brittle, metal corrodes, etc... all irrespective of the mileage driven. 
 
I bought a 20 year old vehicle recently but I would not have bought it if it had spent its life in that part of the country. They don’t call it the rust belt for nothing.
Agreed. I own an 18 year old Landcruiser but it has been in CO its entire life and has almost zero rust. Would never own one that spent a lot of time in the rust belt.
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I got my 2019 6.7 Ram 2500  back in June and did the first oil change at 11K miles at the first of December.  Pretty easy to drain but you need a 93mm filter cap socket wrench (Lilse PN 61580) and a flex head 3/8 socket wrench to get the filter off by going through the passenger wheel well.  Service interval is 6 months/15K miles and I decided to do it a little early on the miles.  Was planning on doing fuel filters at the same time but kept pushing it off and finally got to it right after Christmas at 13.5k miles.

Used a short 28mm socket  and flex extension for the filter housing caps and a 1/4" hose fits rear filter housing drain nipple to drip into the drain pan.  For the engine mounted filter, a 3/4" hose fits right over the short hose already mounted to the housing and got tywrapped to the steering stablizer to hold in place.  That rear filter is located directly above the rear driveshaft with the fuel tank on driver side and the muffler on the passenger side so there isn't much room to get to it.   Watch a couple of videos online because when you loosen the the rear filter there is still about a cup on fuel in the base cap that spills everywhere. I was ready and made a baffle out of cardboard to deflect most of the fuel back into my drain pan.  The front filter is easy and was able to change it without spilling any oil. 

Here's a pic of the parts and tools I used and the old filters.  The front filter is on the left and looks brand new, the rear filter is pretty dark but from what I gather online it is typically asphaltenes in the fuel.  I had a '98 Dodge with a 5.9 Cummins for 10 yrs/ 225k miles and don't remember what the filter on it looked like when change.  I guess as long as the engine mounted filter looks clean I won't worry too much.   I poured off the fuel I drained into a clean bottle and let it sit a while and I don't see any water separating out.  I'm finding out that the fuel pump (CP4.2)  used in the '19-20 Ram 6.7 Cummins has some issues and will grenade if small amounts of water gets past to the pump.  FCA isn't taking care of their customers saying that bad fuel is blamed in a number of the failures.  Interesting as the truck has two filters and can still get 'bad fuel' to the pump.  This same pump was used on Duramax and is still on the Ford and all of them have had issues.  So much that FCA just recently went back to the CP3 pump for 2021 6.7 Cummins engines. Hoping that FCA will do a recall on existing CP4 engines and update.  Probably a $2k replacement vs $15k when the pump fails and craters the whole FI system.

So, that's how I installed $101.90 worth of Mopar fuel filters from Geno's Garage.

Thank you for coming to my ted talk.

IMG_8342a.thumb.png.68c37c25498a7ee3e47a0554ad2f8b3b.png

 

IMG_8344.thumb.JPG.74868df26239356b59115b595384c527.JPG

 

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3 hours ago, smuggs said:

You gonna do it?

Yeah, I think so.  I got my parking situation sorted out for the time being so I can keep my F-150 around when I want to go camping or offroading while I'm waiting for the Bronco.  The one nagging issue is when actual delivery will occur.  I read that while Ford expects Broncos to start rolling off the assembly line sometime this summer, Ford has received so many reservations that it can't guarantee delivery in 2021.  It was bad enough that the production date got pushed from this spring to sometime in the summer, but I really don't want to wait until next year.  I know you were in the same boat and that's why you pulled the trigger on your Jeep.  (BTW, how are you liking it?)  

If I can get some kind of positive feedback from Ford that delivery will more than likely be sometime this year, I'll definitely pull the trigger.  I built one on the Ford website yesterday, and I think I've got what I want pretty much nailed down.  

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1 hour ago, Carl Spackler said:

 I know you were in the same boat and that's why you pulled the trigger on your Jeep.  (BTW, how are you liking it?)  

Love it. It's an awesome vehicle. Comfortable, surprisingly nimble and even though it's longer than an Unlimited everything feels like it's located right where it should be. I've done some light wheeling (more like light mudding in my neck of the woods) and it reminds me of my old '93 Mazda B2600i, which was a little off road shredder that I absolutely put through the ringer in my early twenties.

Keep us posted on the Bronco.

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Well after our first couple of road trips with the 6 month old and the dog, it is apparent the Taco is just not big enough for us on the inside. Tried to convince the wife to upgrade her car, but she is not having it. 

 

So looks like an F-150 is in my future. Looking at 2016 and newer 4x4 is my only must haves. Anything I need to be on the lookout for? I tend to keep vehicles until the wheels fall off, so I’m leaning towards the V8 since I try and do all of the maintenance myself, and initial research shows those are easier to work on than the EcoBoosts. Probably an XLT. Good news, the 10 year old Taco only has 100k miles so it still has tons of value.

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Was told today by a Ford salesperson that Jan. 19 is the date they're thinking customers will be able to start doing Bronco builds through dealers.
I live in Florida. There was a brand new Bronco parked in my neighborhood today. I was towing a trailer (#trucknuts) so I couldn't pull over and ogle it.
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1 hour ago, bigshark88 said:
On 1/4/2021 at 10:44 PM, Carl Spackler said:
Was told today by a Ford salesperson that Jan. 19 is the date they're thinking customers will be able to start doing Bronco builds through dealers.

I live in Florida. There was a brand new Bronco parked in my neighborhood today. I was towing a trailer (#trucknuts) so I couldn't pull over and ogle it.

I think Ford dealers have been getting some pre-production models or something.  The nearest dealer to me has a Bronco Sport parked near the service area.  Next time I'm out that way, I'm going to see if they've got a Bronco as well.

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Since I'm not a surly big ball high roller and can't afford a new f450 super king ranch platinum every 2 years:

What's the general consensus on used Nissan Titans or Armadas?  They seem to be cheaper than tundras or f150s.  I don't need any fancy shit and it won't be a daily driver, just looking at something to pull a trailer occasionally.  

I really don't give a shit how it handles or the ride quality or the infotainment system.  I'm mainly wanting to know how they hold up long term as I'm looking for something around 100k miles for as cheap as possible.  

Like if these Nissan's are known to last to 200k I might be inclined to get this thing 

Screenshot-20210111-114952.png

 

Any well known problems to look for?

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My only experience is with a frontier on a ranch that couldn’t be killed.  I don’t know of any specific issues but I’ve always felt they have a “good” reputation for longevity.   I wouldn’t blink at that armada with 150k miles if it was for occasional use. Replace the belt(s), hoses, and a few wear items because it’s an ‘06 and wouldn’t give it a second thought.   Might be more interesting if they use a timing belt in lieu of chain. 

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3 hours ago, dingleberryswitzer said:

Since I'm not a surly big ball high roller and can't afford a new f450 super king ranch platinum every 2 years:

What's the general consensus on used Nissan Titans or Armadas?  They seem to be cheaper than tundras or f150s.  I don't need any fancy shit and it won't be a daily driver, just looking at something to pull a trailer occasionally.  

I really don't give a shit how it handles or the ride quality or the infotainment system.  I'm mainly wanting to know how they hold up long term as I'm looking for something around 100k miles for as cheap as possible.  

Like if these Nissan's are known to last to 200k I might be inclined to get this thing 

Screenshot-20210111-114952.png

 

Any well known problems to look for?

There are at least 5 NHTSA recall items on that particular model according to Consumer Reports.  Some of them appear to be minor, but one relates to the trailer brake controller.  I mention that simply because you indicated you would likely use the Armada for towing.  Before buying, I'd want to make sure those recall items were repaired.

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Had a 2012 Pathfinder that I sold at something like 220k. Had to replace the drive shaft universal joint bearings and the crankshaft positioning sensor and that was it. It did have a couple weird electrical demons. Sometimes the door would lock itself for no known reason and occasionally the driver side window would roll itself down while parked.

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On 1/5/2021 at 10:07 AM, davidg said:

I got my 2019 6.7 Ram 2500  back in June and did the first oil change at 11K miles at the first of December.  Pretty easy to drain but you need a 93mm filter cap socket wrench (Lilse PN 61580) and a flex head 3/8 socket wrench to get the filter off by going through the passenger wheel well.  Service interval is 6 months/15K miles and I decided to do it a little early on the miles.  Was planning on doing fuel filters at the same time but kept pushing it off and finally got to it right after Christmas at 13.5k miles.

Used a short 28mm socket  and flex extension for the filter housing caps and a 1/4" hose fits rear filter housing drain nipple to drip into the drain pan.  For the engine mounted filter, a 3/4" hose fits right over the short hose already mounted to the housing and got tywrapped to the steering stablizer to hold in place.  That rear filter is located directly above the rear driveshaft with the fuel tank on driver side and the muffler on the passenger side so there isn't much room to get to it.   Watch a couple of videos online because when you loosen the the rear filter there is still about a cup on fuel in the base cap that spills everywhere. I was ready and made a baffle out of cardboard to deflect most of the fuel back into my drain pan.  The front filter is easy and was able to change it without spilling any oil. 

Here's a pic of the parts and tools I used and the old filters.  The front filter is on the left and looks brand new, the rear filter is pretty dark but from what I gather online it is typically asphaltenes in the fuel.  I had a '98 Dodge with a 5.9 Cummins for 10 yrs/ 225k miles and don't remember what the filter on it looked like when change.  I guess as long as the engine mounted filter looks clean I won't worry too much.   I poured off the fuel I drained into a clean bottle and let it sit a while and I don't see any water separating out.  I'm finding out that the fuel pump (CP4.2)  used in the '19-20 Ram 6.7 Cummins has some issues and will grenade if small amounts of water gets past to the pump.  FCA isn't taking care of their customers saying that bad fuel is blamed in a number of the failures.  Interesting as the truck has two filters and can still get 'bad fuel' to the pump.  This same pump was used on Duramax and is still on the Ford and all of them have had issues.  So much that FCA just recently went back to the CP3 pump for 2021 6.7 Cummins engines. Hoping that FCA will do a recall on existing CP4 engines and update.  Probably a $2k replacement vs $15k when the pump fails and craters the whole FI system.

So, that's how I installed $101.90 worth of Mopar fuel filters from Geno's Garage.

Thank you for coming to my ted talk.

IMG_8342a.thumb.png.68c37c25498a7ee3e47a0554ad2f8b3b.png

 

IMG_8344.thumb.JPG.74868df26239356b59115b595384c527.JPG

 

This post crushes when read in the voice of ---

iu.jpeg

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