Jump to content

Truck Nuts


BurntOrange&White

Recommended Posts

I have that same bed cover.  Had them on previous trucks for years and they work great for keeping crap in the bad out of sight and locked down.  What I did learn is that those aluminum panels are soft.  I got caught out in what i thought was a fairly minor hail storm.  Zero damage to the truck itself, but that bed cover looked like someone took a ballpeen hammer to it.  I never replaced it and it still functioned as needed, but aesthetically it was beat up.

image.png.083255964cf74692af7a65347f302a7d.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, tbone_ said:

Ooh. Interesting. We don’t get a lot of hail in AZ but good to keep in mind.

Another thing, the long latch above the tailgate - you pull the cord/string to unlock it and fold it back on either side.  Don't slam that 3rd panel down when shutting.  One, as noted it can will bend, especially on the edges/tips.  Two, that release mechanism can detach over time.  At the end, when I sold the older truck, the 3rd panel was bent and couldn't lock.  I just hinged up/down.  I never kept anything important in there, but it pissed me off when it broke.  They're not cheap.

 

  • Hook 'Em 1
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2024 at 7:14 PM, HillCountryBevo said:

2011

Simple, bulletproof, trucks.  Not much else you need to say.  You can expect 250-300K miles out of them with basic maintenance.  No frills.  Minimal tech.  But they just keep performing YOY.  I was always a Ford guy, but I also keep my trucks 9-10 years, and after 140k+/- miles each Ford started to shit the bed and the repairs got more and more expensive.  This is why they hold their value so well

The only "tech" I really need is Bluetooth.  I run everything through my phone anyway (GPS, podcasts, etc.).  Two things I miss:  auto-folding mirrors and an outlet in the cab to plug in something like a laptop.

I'd get a "cat" guard, as they are targets for catalytic converter theft (here), but other than that they are monsters.  I got the 2019 TRD Pro, so it does have the leather seats.  The stock Michelin AT2 tires are fine in town, but I had issues at the ranch so I upgraded to larger, Cooper AT tires.  The bed is covered and full of soccer crap.  Chairs, stadium seats, blankets, umbrellas, etc.  The cabin is massive.  We took a trip with both kids and both dogs and they all were fine in the backseat.  

image.png.80bb2db3a41d7f160e612da7935dfc57.png

  • Hook 'Em 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2024 at 10:07 PM, Spur08 said:

This might be a stupid question, but are those covers easy to take on and off?

Undercover Ultraflex pops off easily, you fold it up to the window and it lifts out of the tracks. I can take it off by myself, getting it in and out of the truck bed is the only challenging part by yourself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simple, bulletproof, trucks.  Not much else you need to say.  You can expect 250-300K miles out of them with basic maintenance.  No frills.  Minimal tech.  But they just keep performing YOY.  I was always a Ford guy, but I also keep my trucks 9-10 years, and after 140k+/- miles each Ford started to shit the bed and the repairs got more and more expensive.  This is why they hold their value so well
The only "tech" I really need is Bluetooth.  I run everything through my phone anyway (GPS, podcasts, etc.).  Two things I miss:  auto-folding mirrors and an outlet in the cab to plug in something like a laptop.
I'd get a "cat" guard, as they are targets for catalytic converter theft (here), but other than that they are monsters.  I got the 2019 TRD Pro, so it does have the leather seats.  The stock Michelin AT2 tires are fine in town, but I had issues at the ranch so I upgraded to larger, Cooper AT tires.  The bed is covered and full of soccer crap.  Chairs, stadium seats, blankets, umbrellas, etc.  The cabin is massive.  We took a trip with both kids and both dogs and they all were fine in the backseat.  
image.png.80bb2db3a41d7f160e612da7935dfc57.png

I had a 2007 TRD 4x4 Crewmax that I traded in on my Ram in 2020. ~265k miles, had a starter replaced at 80k, did the water pump a couple of times, replaced a steering hose once and that’s about it for the repairs. Other than that it was a really reliable vehicle, just getting toward the end of its life to ask it to tow a new travel trailer.

I still have some Bilstein front shocks, a transmission filter and a set of plugs I was going to change out when I traded it in. I probably have a few of the element style oil filters that go in it too. Anyone need any of that stuff?
  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Dignan said:

848118623ab4e8d7c16d55b17fb4bb76.jpg
Finally got some work done on my 2021 SR5. Went from stock tires (275/55/r20) to 285/60/20 BFG K02’s and a leveling kit. Was thinking about a higher lift but am happy with how this looks.

Looks good!

  • Hook 'Em 1
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Tundra TRD Pros are shipping with specific Toyota-spec'd Falken Wildpeaks that aren't holding up:

https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/2023-toyota-tundra-trd-pro-yearlong-review-update-6-tire-test/

 

Longcat -

 

Spoiler

Shortly after we took possession of a Tundra TRD Pro for our yearlong review and just ahead of the a comparison test in which a Tundra TRD Pro was going up against a 2023 Ford F-150 Tremor, a Chevy Silverado 1500 Trail Boss, and a Ram 1500 Rebel, testing director Eric Tingwall sent me a message on Slack. "Hey! I heard you got our Tundra TRD Pro. What do the tires look like on it? Full tread/brand new? Or do they look suspiciously not knobby?" I responded: "They are brand new, 49 miles on the odometer. The tread depth is not as deep as it should be."

I should know. In July 2021, I spent a week on the trail photographing Four Wheeler's Overland Adventure program. Prior to the event, Falken, one of the sponsors, sent a brand-new set of Wildpeak tires to all participants to mount on their vehicles. I spent hours staring at Wildpeaks as the overlanders rolled past me on the trail and parked in the camp spots each afternoon. It was this experience that told me something looked off with the new Falken Wildpeaks that came on our new Tundra TRD Pro.

Tingwall's comment about the Tundra's looking "not knobby" hit the nail on the head. Like a new pair of blue jeans that have holes in the knees and are worn thin in areas, the tires on our Tundra TRD Pro looked "pre-distressed."

Fast-forward four months and 9,000 miles to the summer of 2023, and our Tundra's Falkens were looking tired, with the tread almost down to the wear bars. They were also wearing unevenly, with the worst wear happening along the outer edges, despite us following the recommended rotation schedule as part of the routine maintenance.

I was curious if I was the only Tundra TRD Pro owner experiencing premature tire wear issues. If the Toyota Tundra owner's forum, Tundras.com, is any indication, our Tundra wasn't the only one chewing through the stock Falken Wildpeaks.

Reading through numerous pages of comments, I came across a response from a representative of the Falken Quality Assurance team with the username "Falken QA," and they had this to say in response to the many questions in one of the threads:

"Just to chime in, the non-TRD pros can be had with the optional 20-inch all-terrains, which are the Wildpeak AT3wA. As mentioned, this is [an OEM] spec Wildpeak that is not similar to the regular, 'aftermarket' AT3w's that we show on our site. The 20-inch optionals do contain a less aggressive tread design.

"Like any OE tire, tires have to meet goals/criteria set forth by the vehicle manufacturer. This can include acceptable noise levels, comfort levels, handling, rolling resistance [which translates to mpg], weight, and performance. Since the aftermarket tires typically don't meet OE criteria, OE-spec tires are created and tailored specifically to the vehicle it will be equipped on. As such, the OE-spec Wildpeaks come with less tread and softer compound in order to meet these criteria.

"The TRD Pro Wildpeak AT3w 18-inch is based on our aftermarket Wildpeak AT3w, where tread design is the same. However, much like the AT3wA 20-inch, it too had to sacrifice tread depth and compound in order to meet Toyota's goals/criteria.

"Ordering the aftermarket Wildpeak AT3w, whether it be LT size or non-LT size, will have more tread to start with in comparison to the OE-spec tires, along with Three Peak winter rating and the tread design referenced on our site."

In response to a question about the differences between the OE and aftermarket version of the Falken Wildpeaks, the employee continued:

"To start, the off-the-rack/aftermarket versions will have a higher tread depth (13-14/32nds on P size/non-LT, 17-20/32nds on LT, depending on size). This may [make the Tundra feel taller] and [introduce] slight squirm. However, from hearing from an employee with [Tundra] Limited and other enthusiasts, ride quality didn't change much going from the OE spec."

Continuing after, a forum member mentioned the fact that the OE version did not have the Three Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol that designates it as Severe Snow Service rated. The Falken representative had this to say:

"MPG, rolling resistance, weight, handling/traction, noise, comfort, and cost are some factors that come to mind with what can be accepted for OE application. The shallower tread depth and compound, among other things, kept the OE Wildpeak from achieving the Three Peak icon."

There were also several threads regarding the TRD Pro's alignment specifications from the factory. In response to a question regarding uneven wear, the rep said:

"From what we have seen on the alignment specs spreading around the forum and Facebook groups, Toyota has set some positive camber to the front suspension, which causes the appearance that the tires are slanted in at the bottom, causing excessive shoulder wear on the tires. Our OE team will be addressing Toyota soon regarding this. Once we receive an update as to why this is the case, we'll chime in. In terms of speculation, it could be for suspension travel/articulation reasons (clearing fender during full compression)."

A couple of months later, the Falken rep followed up to let members know that the Falken and Toyota teams were still working through the uneven wear issues.

Meanwhile, if the Tundra forum is a reliable indicator, quite a few owners have brought their trucks in for service due to heavier than normal tire wear. Toyota dealers, for their part, seem to be realigning the front suspension with updated specifications and replacing the worn tires, but some of the members have had to do this multiple times.

After absorbing all that information, I was left with a difficult decision: replace the worn OE tires with another set of identical tires, or buy a set of replacement Falken Wildpeaks that have a deeper tread depth, a more resilient rubber compound, and a snow rating. To make things even more complicated, the OE version of the tire is almost $50 more expensive per tire than the aftermarket version. On Tirerack.com, the OE tire will set you back $394.08 each, compared to $346 per tire for the A/T4W.  That means on a set of four of the OE version is $192.32 more expensive.

If this were my personal vehicle, I would've bought the aftermarket set and called it a day. However, in the interest of keeping our Tundra yearlong test data relevant to the public (and to ensure our experience with our OE Falken tires wasn't anecdotal), we decided to order another set for $1,573.40 installed and investigate the issue further with Toyota.

When questioned about the differences in the two versions of the tire and whether they had seen any negative impact on tire wear, Tundra engineers told us: "We develop tires to meet a variety of requirements on our vehicles. The Falken Wildpeak A/T3W work well for our requirements on the TRD Pro." Follow-up questions went unanswered.

By December 2023 we'd put 11,000 miles on our second set of Toyota-spec Wildpeaks. Suspension tweaks the Toyota dealer made to our Tundra under warranty helped our second set of OE Falkens outlast the first by 2,000 miles, but they're still showing signs of significant wear.
Not wanting to flush another $1,500 down the drain, we decided to give a set of aftermarket Falken Wildpeaks a try and see if there were any benefits or drawbacks. After talking with Falken reps, we decided to try a set of Falken Wildpeak A/T4Ws. Although the aftermarket version of the Wildpeak A/T3Ws is still available, the A/T4W replaces the A/T3W in the Falken tire lineup. If I were an owner looking to replace the tires on my truck, I'd buy the newest version of the tire.

The first thing I noticed about the new Falken Wildpeak A/T4Ws is how much more aggressive they look compared to the Toyota-spec Wildpeaks. The difference in depth is significant. The OE version of the A/T3W comes with only 10/32" of tread depth, whereas the aftermarket version of both the A/T3W and the A/T4W both feature 18/32". The sidewall design of the A/T4W is also new. Purely from a visual standpoint, these are the tires the truck should have shipped with.

Not only do the Falken Wildpeak A/T4Ws look cool, but there are also some performance benefits to the new tires. Our test team retested the Tundra with the new set of tires fitted, and the TRD Pro saw a surprising improvement in its 0-60 mph, quarter mile and figure eight times, though braking performance fell by 5 feet in 60-0 mph tests.

Subjectively, the Falken Wildpeak A/T4Ws are a little noisier on the freeway, and the increase in tread depth makes them feel slightly less stable under hard braking and at higher than normal speeds. We've only driven the Tundra about 4,000 miles since installing the Falken Wildpeak A/T4Ws, so although we can't speak to their lifespan yet, there hasn't been any visual wear which is more than we could say for the OE version tire. We have, however, seen a drop in our average fuel economy. With the OE version of the Wildpeaks we averaged 15.3 mpg, which works put to $0.36 per mile. After the A/T4Ws were installed, that figure dropped to 13.3 mpg, with the cost per mile increasing to $0.41. Considering the Tundra's hybrid powertrain, it wouldn't be surprising if Toyota engineers decided to prioritize a more impressive EPA score at the expense of overall tire performance.

Although the A/T4Ws may return slightly worse fuel economy if you own a Toyota Tundra TRD Pro and your tires are worn thin, we'd dump the OE Wildpeaks and order a set of aftermarket ones. The aftermarket tires cost an added nickel per mile to operate, but the difference in longevity should mean it'll be cheaper in the long run. You'd have to drive the Tundra 40,000 miles before you'd make up the cost difference, and at that point we'd have replaced the OE tires at least three times. The aftermarket set will probably make both you and your wallet happier—it has for us.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2024 at 8:14 PM, HillCountryBevo said:

2011

I have a 2011 Tacoma.  240K miles.  Outside of the shitty radio/CD player, it has been great.  Had to replace both catalytic converters at about 150k.  Other than than...just replace tires.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, hullabelew said:

I have a 2011 Tacoma.  240K miles.  Outside of the shitty radio/CD player, it has been great.  Had to replace both catalytic converters at about 150k.  Other than than...just replace tires.  

Might want to check those brake pads, homie...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

I made 210k on my 2500 when 1 pad got hung up.   I bet I could have made 240, maybe.   

Are you not towing?  Or towing with electronic brakes, and using the trailer to slow the truck?!  I'm going through brake pads every 50K or so on average on most of my vehicles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, PvilleStang said:

Are you not towing?  Or towing with electronic brakes, and using the trailer to slow the truck?!  I'm going through brake pads every 50K or so on average on most of my vehicles.

Not real heavy. I tow a 38’ 12k load every few weeks. ~22k in hay a dozen times a year. Half dozen loads of heifers thru the year.  Second set trending towards only lasting me 100k even though I replaced them with supposed OEM pads/rotors, still mostly highway miles.  I don’t race towards red lights (like my wife) or anywhere really, and the diesel is good at being a natural brake and is a smooth decel.   

First 105k was city miles, remainder lots of highway.  Fwiw, my wife’s truck only seems to get about 75-100, on a good set. Sometimes she wears them down at 50k.   I’m going to have to break down and do the parking break this time (it’s a bitch on GMs) 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot about your questions, couldn’t edit.  Yeah all those big trailers have brakes.  Elec and elec over hyd.  Typically run the gain between 5 and 6.   Even unloaded, if youre at any speed and take the pressure off the pedal, my trucks starts slowing. If it’s not spooling, it’s already slowing.  Magnified if towing, especially heavy or non aero. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think I’m going to pick up a Tundra for towing/hauling and as an extra vehicle. Anything I should make sure to get on one? Looking at an SR5 because I don’t need all the extras at this point. Any big improvements or anything that I need to keep in mind in model years? I’m thinking about a new one unless I just happen to come across what I want within the last couple of years. It will probably stick around for a while as the 3rd vehicle, so I want something I don’t have to worry about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the extras

And check the payload capacity vs what’s in the truck and the actual hitch weight. Older 4x4 Crewmax Tundras had a terrible load capacity, 1340 lbs in the case in my 2007. 4 adults, a couple hundred pounds of gear in the bed and 10:1 hitch weight got you to about 4-5k lbs of trailer.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, davidg said:


And check the payload capacity vs what’s in the truck and the actual hitch weight. Older 4x4 Crewmax Tundras had a terrible load capacity, 1340 lbs in the case in my 2007. 4 adults, a couple hundred pounds of gear in the bed and 10:1 hitch weight got you to about 4-5k lbs of trailer.

Checked towing and it looked fine, didn’t even think about payload. It looks like the newer ones are 1940 versus 3300 on the F150. Not sure that matters all that much since I’m only towing 16 foot trailers, boats, etc but that is well under what I would have expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked towing and it looked fine, didn’t even think about payload. It looks like the newer ones are 1940 versus 3300 on the F150. Not sure that matters all that much since I’m only towing 16 foot trailers, boats, etc but that is well under what I would have expected.
Sounds like you need a diesel, my friend.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Mother mopar said:
50 minutes ago, Brew said:
Checked towing and it looked fine, didn’t even think about payload. It looks like the newer ones are 1940 versus 3300 on the F150. Not sure that matters all that much since I’m only towing 16 foot trailers, boats, etc but that is well under what I would have expected.

Sounds like you need a diesel, my friend.

Traded off my 9 month old F250 that I said I was keeping forever this time last year. It was too big for what I need and where I drive and my back couldn’t take the ride. I need a truck for hauling and medium grade towing. I want to buy one more that will last me a while which keeps me from buying F150# whatever I’ve had at this point.

Just checked F250 pricing, it has changed a lot in that time frame. I bought my Platinum out the door loaded for $77k, looks like it would take mid 90’s to get it now.

Edited by Brew
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Goofyboy said:

New Truck day. 2024 Tundra Platinum

9ae229ed301730f9301be812fc944184.jpg

Nice color. 
 

On 3/16/2024 at 8:42 PM, Brew said:

Just checked F250 pricing, it has changed a lot in that time frame. I bought my Platinum out the door loaded for $77k, looks like it would take mid 90’s to get it now.

And while having over 16 years of near flawless mechanical performance, it took Oklahoma sucking hard enough to suck the life out of my trans this weekend.  Don’t know if I’m going to replace (think it might be electrical) or just put her out to pasture and spend 80k.  Fucking Oklahoma.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...