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The "Post a Picture You Took" thread


Patricio Swayze

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3 hours ago, nycHorn said:

Pretty crazy images of a Russian town frozen over and documented here....

https://www.thisiscolossal.com/2021/03/arseniy-kotov-vorkuta-photographs/

Unless there is a very compelling reason to locate people there, that town will most likely disappear. I've been to a lot of places and the coldest weather I've experienced was Moscow in January {-20 F at night with highs of 5 F, or so, during the day} and Iowa in January {about the same as Moscow}.

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Nice road trip, @Patricio Swayze . I particularly like the church with the road going by in the first set and the delivery truck from the 2nd. 

My latest effort, a shot of one of the bronze longhorns from the Chisolm trail cattle drive sculpture installation at the suspension bridge in town. Bridge by the way is getting a rehab and is closed to the public for the next year and a half. Went downtown the other day and there it was sans cables. Was a weird sight. 

Calling this one "You Cannot Get Away".

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Buddy of mine knows I like photography so he brought me some photos he took in '95 of his family trip to Mexico City. Was not expecting to see what he showed up with. They're all pano shots. I don't remember that being a thing but I guess it was. They're all 12" x 3" prints. I don't really see any distortion for the most part so not sure how they were produced. Here's a shot of one, the subject is the ruins/excavation site they visited. These aren't store bought souvenir type shit, he has a whole box of stuff he shot - family etc... and they're all like this. 

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There are a handful of panoramic cameras out there.

The Xpan/TX-1 would be the obvious choice but it didn’t come out until 1998.

Fuji GX617 was a huge medium format (really large format) beast.

The Art Panorama 240 would make a huge 6x24cm negative that could produce a 4:1 pano, but it’s even larger.

Those look closer to a 3:1 aspect ratio, so something like the Fuji makes sense.

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A few of y'all follow me on instagram so you might have already seen me being critical of this photo.  Maybe I am being a little hard on myself, but still, I could have done better.  I had gone down to the 5th Ward to take a few night shots with the Pentax 6x7 that I borrowed.  I saw a traveler under a bridge and since I hadn't seen one in many months, stopped to talk and get his photo.  I am unhappy that the shot didn't come out tack sharp.  Then even more upset that I missed the sunset shot of the skyline I wanted.  Anyways, here is the photo of the traveler, Red, and a few from today.

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I shot these today while waiting for a train that never came.  I was hoping to get a birds eye view shot of the train on the bridge.

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A few of y'all follow me on instagram so you might have already seen me being critical of this photo.  Maybe I am being a little hard on myself, but still, I could have done better.  I had gone down to the 5th Ward to take a few night shots with the Pentax 6x7 that I borrowed.  I saw a traveler under a bridge and since I hadn't seen one in many months, stopped to talk and get his photo.  I am unhappy that the shot didn't come out tack sharp.  Then even more upset that I missed the sunset shot of the skyline I wanted.  Anyways, here is the photo of the traveler, Red, and a few from today.
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I shot these today while waiting for a train that never came.  I was hoping to get a birds eye view shot of the train on the bridge.
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It looks pretty damn dark. What ISO was it taken at?
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I shot it at ISO 1250 at f4.5. Shutter fired at 1/8 which is below my usual threshold for handheld at 1/10.

I should have put on the 50mm and shot it at 2.8. Maybe even 1600.

it was just after golden hour. Pretty dark and blue.

Man, 1/8 is tough. Does the lens have IS? I’m not sure if ever expect a tack sharp photo handheld at 1/8!
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I was downtown fucking around a week or two ago near the statue of hometown hero Doris Miller and it was early morning. I'd taken a few shots of it before and posted my efforts here. @DougO commented then on how the eyes had a Cujo look to them. Come to find out when the sun is from the east they look right. My monitor isn't calibrated so when I do print I have to tinker with the image, usually the brightness. This pic doesn't look nearly as good as the print that I made from it. Really happy with how it turned out. 

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Remind me where you send it off to again. And you get scans or just developing?


The dark room.

I believe he uses The Darkroom.

They do good work.

I have used them and Memphis Film Lab. MFL is really cheap and they’ve been solid for me so far.


I need to check them out because those 4 rolls are going to cost me $60 (including medium resolution scans). And as someone who is unemployed, I don’t want to have to explain that to my wife.
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I need to check them out because those 4 rolls are going to cost me $60 (including medium resolution scans). And as someone who is unemployed, I don’t want to have to explain that to my wife.

They might be just like right under Darkroom, but they are very close. I like them, especially for the price.
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@Anton Chigurh is there a way to make Photopills give the time of day (night) when the moon is going to be at a particular azimuth? I haven't explored the app much. Tried to watch a couple of vids but Hans' accent is hard on my old ears. :) Basically I have an idea of where I'd like to take a photo from and relative to that location where I'd like the moon to be in the photo. I'm just trying to figure out WHEN I need to be there for that. 

Thanks in advance!

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[mention=25]Anton Chigurh[/mention] is there a way to make Photopills give the time of day (night) when the moon is going to be at a particular azimuth? I haven't explored the app much. Tried to watch a couple of vids but Hans' accent is hard on my old ears.  Basically I have an idea of where I'd like to take a photo from and relative to that location where I'd like the moon to be in the photo. I'm just trying to figure out WHEN I need to be there for that. 
Thanks in advance!

Yes. Just go to the Planning function. Change the complication at the top to show the Sun/Moon Azimuth/Elevation. Find your location in the map, then set the time/date to your desired date, and drag the date/time slider to see when the moon will be where you want it.

On the map, the moon is the thin, light blue line. It moves as you change the date/time slider

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6 hours ago, Anton Chigurh said:


Yes. Just go to the Planning function. Change the complication at the top to show the Sun/Moon Azimuth/Elevation. Find your location in the map, then set the time/date to your desired date, and drag the date/time slider to see when the moon will be where you want it.

On the map, the moon is the thin, light blue line. It moves as you change the date/time slider

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Perfect. I'm a lazy bastard but HAD thought about it a little bit and this is pretty much what I had envisioned - that is moving a slider. I had tried tapping on the azimuth at the bottom of the sun/moon widget hoping that maybe the function was hidden in there. I haven't really explored the Planner yet but that's where I figured such a function might be after I couldn't find it on the sun/moon widget. 

If I'd had the idea sooner I suspect that this morning, 'bout an hour from right now by my calculations, would have been a good time to get the shot I'm thinking of. At least I think so, it's supposed to be pretty clear out right now.

ETA. Nope, almost a bit foggy out. Oh well, moon'll come back around, it always does. 

Edited by El Diablo
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I still have functional 35mm cameras stashed away and a few rolls of unused film, and my Dad's old Mamiya. It has been way in the back of my mind to break out some film but probably not inclined to do so soon. I should have probably put the film in the freezer a couple of decades ago.

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What is the process for the final image with you film folks? When the negatives are developed are they already scanned to digital form, are you scanning negatives, do you get prints, or what?



I get tiffs from the lab and process them some if they need it.

I may get a macro lens in the future and scan using my DSLR in the future, but that is harder to do for MF negatives, since you have to stitch them.
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What is the process for the final image with you film folks? When the negatives are developed are they already scanned to digital form, are you scanning negatives, do you get prints, or what?

I get scans and the negatives. I never get prints from the place I use to process the film. Instead later I sometimes use Mpix to make prints. But I need to start getting the scans at the highest resolution I can (it’s just more money) so that prints look better.

So yeah, most of these places that have been mentioned develop and scan a roll for about $15-20 and they give you the files as well as the physical negatives.
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Anton and Naija, tell me I am being stupid.

A local shop has a Pentax 6x7 with a TTL meter prism and 200mm lens for sale at $500. I have seen it in person and it seems to function fine, but there is quite a bit of wear. I was thinking if I pulled the trigger, I would want a 67 rather than a 6x7 (I know there is very little difference). And the 200mm is a lens I am not interested in, but maybe I could sell it for $75-$100. I really am interested in 3 lenses: the mythical 105mm, 45mm and the 35mm fisheye.

Most of these cameras on eBay cost more than $500 on eBay, but are in mint or near mint condition. They come from Japan and it’s kind of a crapshoot.

Should I just buy this one and pick up the lenses as finances allow?

I have a big project I am working on and really think this camera will be a big help for what I am trying to do. But in my dreams I imagine I have the money for a near mint 67 and the three lenses I want. I am probably being to difficult.

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Anton and Naija, tell me I am being stupid.

A local shop has a Pentax 6x7 with a TTL meter prism and 200mm lens for sale at $500. I have seen it in person and it seems to function fine, but there is quite a bit of wear. I was thinking if I pulled the trigger, I would want a 67 rather than a 6x7 (I know there is very little difference). And the 200mm is a lens I am not interested in, but maybe I could sell it for $75-$100. I really am interested in 3 lenses: the mythical 105mm, 45mm and the 35mm fisheye.

Most of these cameras on eBay cost more than $500 on eBay, but are in mint or near mint condition. They come from Japan and it’s kind of a crapshoot.

Should I just buy this one and pick up the lenses as finances allow?

I have a big project I am working on and really think this camera will be a big help for what I am trying to do. But in my dreams I imagine I have the money for a near mint 67 and the three lenses I want. I am probably being to difficult.

As far as the Japanese sellers go, they do kind of a goofy grading system.

It’s most important on those to really closely analyze the photos and the written description and kinda ignore the “EXC+++++” in the title.

As long as all functions are described as working and you don’t see any fungus and stuff on the lenses in photos, you’ll be okay. And if for some reason it’s not, the Japanese sellers are great at doing returns or giving you a discount on it.

Also, they’re typically shipping via DHL or FedEx right now and you’ll get anything shipped that way in like 3-7 days which is nice. My 65mm RB lens I purchased from Japan and it was fine, aside from a little wear.

I would also monitor KEH. There are not any there now but they apparently come up pretty often. Their “bargain” grade stuff is a great buy (my Canon F-1 and New F-1 were both bargain grade and are awesome).

Example of a “bargain” grade 67: https://imgur.com/a/bEXKGBz

The Reddit sub r/photomarket is solid too. You may need some previous posting to make transactions there, however. I purchased my RB67 from a guy there, and have sold a few cameras myself as well.
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2 hours ago, Anton Chigurh said:


As far as the Japanese sellers go, they do kind of a goofy grading system.

It’s most important on those to really closely analyze the photos and the written description and kinda ignore the “EXC+++++” in the title.

As long as all functions are described as working and you don’t see any fungus and stuff on the lenses in photos, you’ll be okay. And if for some reason it’s not, the Japanese sellers are great at doing returns or giving you a discount on it.

Also, they’re typically shipping via DHL or FedEx right now and you’ll get anything shipped that way in like 3-7 days which is nice. My 65mm RB lens I purchased from Japan and it was fine, aside from a little wear.

I would also monitor KEH. There are not any there now but they apparently come up pretty often. Their “bargain” grade stuff is a great buy (my Canon F-1 and New F-1 were both bargain grade and are awesome).

Example of a “bargain” grade 67: https://imgur.com/a/bEXKGBz

The Reddit sub r/photomarket is solid too. You may need some previous posting to make transactions there, however. I purchased my RB67 from a guy there, and have sold a few cameras myself as well.

I am 50-50 working with Japanese sellers.  But beyond that, I would rather give a local guy my money.  Especially one that is trying to eek it out as a repair and resell shop for vintage gear.

Looking at the photos again, maybe I am being too critical.  Looks like most of the wear is on the prism, which obviously is replaceable.  It has the MUL feature, which is what I wanted.  He is not open again until Friday, so I probably have a little time to think about it.  Here are some photos.

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Full moon last night and using the app that Anton recommended the gotdang thing appeared exactly where and when it was supposed to. Crazy. Pardon the subject matter my UT friends, there ain't much here in the way of landmarks that I could capture in a frame with limited time and research. 

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19 hours ago, Anton Chigurh said:

Yeah, that ain’t too bad really.

I may try to talk him down to $400.  The lens he has on it is worth maybe $100.  I will decide in the next few days.

My brother, dad and I were at UT dropping off a bunch of materials my father is donating to the UT permanent collections so I snapped a couple of rather unoriginal shots.  The olmec head I shot with both my phone and camera, but liked the iphone version more.  Going a little wild with the sky, but I really like how it looks (for now).

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On the way home, stopped by to see the owls...

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On 3/16/2021 at 4:23 PM, Patricio Swayze said:

A few more...

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I’m still an old fashioned film, Hasselblad, Ilford Galleria grade 3 paper type of guy. That being said I would absolutely love to print the bird shot, sorry I don’t know the species. But, you could easily print all 11 grads. That is a fine photograph right there. 

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I’m still an old fashioned film, Hasselblad, Ilford Galleria grade 3 paper type of guy. That being said I would absolutely love to print the bird shot, sorry I don’t know the species. But, you could easily print all 11 grads. That is a fine photograph right there. 

Thank you. And I wish I had a hasselblad!

You mean the juvenile bald Eagle flying? It’s fairly cropped, I wonder how large a print I could produce without losing too much quality. Please let me know if you are interested in one.
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20 minutes ago, Patricio Swayze said:


Thank you. And I wish I had a hasselblad!

You mean the juvenile bald Eagle flying? It’s fairly cropped, I wonder how large a print I could produce without losing too much quality. Please let me know if you are interested in one.

Absolutely would like one. I think the shot is wonderful. 

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On 3/27/2021 at 1:06 PM, DougO said:

What is the process for the final image with you film folks? When the negatives are developed are they already scanned to digital form, are you scanning negatives, do you get prints, or what?

I use The FIND Lab and send for development, scanning and sometimes prints.

Honestly, need to get around to doing this at home

Edited by naija
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the biggest thing about these cameras is getting one that works properly. hard to beat a local guy you can actually go to and handle the camera in the flesh to see. You can keep an eye out on Ebay, but if the camera meets your needs and works....

there was a Pentax 67ii with the 75mm lens on Ebay from a US seller like a month ago going for $2,500 or so. everyone says mint, but this one looked close to it. unfortunately had to be financially responsible and pass....

one day.

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15 minutes ago, naija said:

the biggest thing about these cameras is getting one that works properly. hard to beat a local guy you can actually go to and handle the camera in the flesh to see. You can keep an eye out on Ebay, but if the camera meets your needs and works....

there was a Pentax 67ii with the 75mm lens on Ebay from a US seller like a month ago going for $2,500 or so. everyone says mint, but this one looked close to it. unfortunately had to be financially responsible and pass....

one day.

I agree about the local thing.  Even told the guy that.  I suppose I just wanted a 67 because it would be slightly newer, but really, it probably doesn't matter.  It has the MLU, so it is at least a late version of the 6x7.  Going to think it over until the end of the week.  I might miss out on it, but he said he gets one about every two months to sell.

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First real attempt at nighttime photography. Probably would look better with a decent edit but I'm not there yet in that department. Also can't seem to figure out why buildings look tilted in different directions or maybe that's just my eye. I was using a fairly "normal" focal length, around 85mm I think.

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16 minutes ago, El Diablo said:

First real attempt at nighttime photography. Probably would look better with a decent edit but I'm not there yet in that department. Also can't seem to figure out why buildings look tilted in different directions or maybe that's just my eye. I was using a fairly "normal" focal length, around 85mm I think.

 

 

 

You have a lot of road work/street signs that are off-plumb in the image (and off-plumb at different angles), along with a gentle slope in the road and that's why your eye is telling you the buildings are out of whack. 

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4 hours ago, El Diablo said:

First real attempt at nighttime photography. Probably would look better with a decent edit but I'm not there yet in that department. Also can't seem to figure out why buildings look tilted in different directions or maybe that's just my eye. I was using a fairly "normal" focal length, around 85mm I think.

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That dark bridge in the lower off center portion kinda plays with the viewer's mind since it looks like another image transposed on the central vertical building.  I'm interested in seeing how you do these as well since I'd like to do some night time images and am not skillful with a camera.  The lights really play off the backs of the signs in the opposite direction as well (understandably there's a street light closer to the photographer out of lens sight reflecting that direction).  Still, interesting because the colors seem true for night.  

Edited by Mdhorn
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1 hour ago, Mdhorn said:

That dark bridge in the lower off center portion kinda plays with the viewer's mind since it looks like another image transposed on the central vertical building.  I'm interested in seeing how you do these as well since I'd like to do some night time images and am not skillful with a camera.  The lights really play off the backs of the signs in the opposite direction as well (understandably there's a street light closer to the photographer out of lens sight reflecting that direction).  Still, interesting because the colors seem true for night.  

Eh, you're not likely to see it from me anytime soon, lol. My ability to edit is pretty much nil. As far as capturing the basic image I used a gorillapod and a cable release with the mirror up on the camera. Set the 'pod on the sidewalk and took a few guesstimate shots to get the exposure in the ballpark.

I've got photoshop Elements which I guess I could use to create a few layers to tone down the bright lights and bring up the shadows but I've been lazy as hell wrt that aspect of creating images. 

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