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Home Theater Upgrade.


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On 4/19/2018 at 8:50 PM, Buzzrock said:

 


Yeah that was tongue in cheek.

Just checked the prices on the 65” LG OLEDs and they are still more than I want to spend. I have a 60” plasma now that’s pretty nice so I can hold out a little longer.

 

Same boat.  I have a six year old Panasonic Plasma that still rocks a decent 1080p picture (although there is some banding due to the age).  I read that the new HDMI spec is coming out at the end of the year.  So I'm going to wait until the 2019 panels come out in a year to upgrade.  

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As a final to my original post, I did upgrade my receiver after all. I got a denon AVR-X2400H for $399 from Frys. More 4K HDMI inputs than I’ll ever need, WiFi and Bluetooth and a very easy to use interface.  The Audessy auto adjustment was easy to run  it came with a mic with a cable long enough to reach the couch.  

 

If anyone wants my pioneer VSX-1020k, I’ll get it to you for $50.  

 

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15 hours ago, GottaB said:

As a final to my original post, I did upgrade my receiver after all. I got a denon AVR-X2400H for $399 from Frys. More 4K HDMI inputs than I’ll ever need, WiFi and Bluetooth and a very easy to use interface.  The Audessy auto adjustment was easy to run  it came with a mic with a cable long enough to reach the couch.  

 

If anyone wants my pioneer VSX-1020k, I’ll get it to you for $50.  

 

If you're around atown I might take you up on it.  

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21 hours ago, Gardner Barnes said:

Some updates. Wallpaper going in Monday. Backside of media room turned into mud room by back door.

Equipment is here but missing a connection piece for TV so equipment instal delayed to next week.

 

When you start using it you need to pull the speakers out in front of the dividers so that the baffle/diffraction effect doesn't come into play.  The fronts need to be at least a couple of inches in front the the dividers.  Ideally you'd pull them all the way to the front edge of the base cabinet, when in use, so you aren't getting an immediate first order reflection.

You should also decouple them from cabinet with isolation pads. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=auralex+mopad&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=241940087918&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9220370752684053598&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014901&hvtargid=kwd-433795682&ref=pd_sl_78ogb0b7x7_e

Edited by ShaggyBevo RIP
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On 5/4/2018 at 8:15 AM, 52-80 said:

who's running a projector setup?  im moving into a place with a basement and considering beaming a picture there

How big of a videophile are you?  I have a Sony SXRD projector that I love but I think in 5-10 years there will be 100"(+) OLED 4K TVs around $2K that don't require any light control.  Once that happens it is going to kind of hard to justify the cost of a dedicated projector HT buildout unless you've just got to have 120"(+) or are a hardcore videophile.

I'm already considering at what point I tear out the HT room, open the space to the rest of the basement, and go with 2-3 big screens in a more living room style sport bar like set up.

Edited by ShaggyBevo RIP
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16 minutes ago, ShaggyBevo RIP said:

How big of a videophile are you?  I have a Sony SXRD projector that I love but I think in 5-10 years there will be 100"(+) OLED 4K TVs around $2K that don't require any light control.  Once that happens it is going to kind of hard to justify the cost of a dedicated projector HT buildout unless you've just got to have 120"(+) or are a hardcore videophile.

I'm already considering at what point I tear out the HT room, open the space to the rest of the basement, and go with 2-3 big screens in a more living room style sport bar like set up.

im not too fussy on the tech and PQ.  the woman enjoys the movie theater experience so i want to recreate the immersion feel with a projector.  prob is she wants to put a bed (rather than a futon or lounge chairs) in the basement, and i dont wanna get sucked into the audio blackhole

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4 hours ago, 52-80 said:

im not too fussy on the tech and PQ.  the woman enjoys the movie theater experience so i want to recreate the immersion feel with a projector.  prob is she wants to put a bed (rather than a futon or lounge chairs) in the basement, and i dont wanna get sucked into the audio blackhole

Boom chicka wow wow.

It isn't the immersive theater experience without the audio.

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Jumped on a good deal on Amazon for a recently outdated Onkyo receiver for $229, the Onkyo TX-NR575. It was replaced by a newer model that's only upside appears to be more watts per channel. Replaced an 8 year old Onkyo with this new one and it's already sounding so much better. It's 7.2 though I doubt I'll ever go over 5.1. Connected it to my Oppo universal blu-ray player and listened to a big helping of the DVD-Audios, SACDs, and Blu-ray audios that I own. Sounded great. Seems like it's upgradya proof with all this shit I don't even own like 4K, Dolby Atmos and Dolby Vision. Got 6 HDMI connections, 5 of which are now in use. The old one only had 3 so we'd have to unplug something (HD Tuner or Wii U) to plug in another component. No longer!

Will be in the market at some point soon for a new projector. Need to replace the 8 year old Panasonic 720p projector. Always been a big Panasonic fan but any help on other options to look at would be nice. Would like to go 4K. 

Edited by mdmost
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On 5/21/2018 at 5:05 PM, Gardner Barnes said:

Do I need to add the isolation pads for the sub (also in the cabinet) and that center?

Also. Got the Hue lights and chandelier in

Put your favorite WTF gif meme here. Your HT installer has no idea(or doesn't care) what he's doing other than building cabinets and cashing checks. Are you really only 7-8' back from that cabinet? 

Why the fuck do you have so much lighting in a dedicated HT room?  At least they steered you to a good dark gray scale neutral for the walls. I'd paint the ceiling tricorn black. Guessing you can't return the completely unnecessary chandelier? All that white, on the chandelier and ceiling, is going to reflect the light back on the screen.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1256525-REG/auray_iso_sub_iso_pad.html?ap=y&gclid=CjwKCAjwopTYBRAzEiwAnU4kb3nT1uKMXAwOAvUwI_USF3M4cy3M2d02wxKHtLekr5jq4oFc3rb_DBoCL38QAvD_BwE

And yes, the CC needs to be decoupled from the cabinet as well.

Bass is very room dependent you don't want the sub ending up in a void or null.  Easiest trick is to put the sub in the main listening/watching spot and walk around the room to see were the best bass response is and put the sub in that spot. In the cabinet the sub is going to shake the shit out of the cabinet and every shelf therein. 

 

Edited by ShaggyBevo RIP
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You put me on the defensive a bit here. I think I stated this way up above but the room is not a HT. It is for the kids and is why I keep calling it a media room. Now that they are teens it’s purpose is to get them out of my living room when they have friends over. This is why everything in there is midrange and not for blowing the paint off the walls movie watching. It will have video games and shit like that.

 

We currently have 2 TVs in the house and when they have other kids spend the night which at this point is almost every weekend night, I get banished to my bedroom unless I want to watch stupid ass vampire movies and Riverdale.

 

Anyway - scale is poor in that pic. Wall is 14’ from tv screen. Eyeball to TV will

be about 12’ with a back to the couch. Obviously closer than I would like but not much more I can do with the space.

 

 I appreciate your advice and obvious AV expertise. could do without the AVRex Kramerism though.

 

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  • 3 months later...

Bump to discuss my project:

I've got a bonus room/'man cave' (not really a fan of that term though), that I'm looking to finish out.  the dimensions are kind of weird but the plan is to make a portion of it into a theater/critical listening space.  So we built this garage down the side of our property and the dimensions were such that it would have ended up being a 4 car garage.  I figured that's ridiculous so I put in 3 garage bays and walled off the fourth to create this room.  that being the case it is very long an narrow (approx 26' x 12').  The far end will be the bathroom/bar area, the center section will have the couch facing a large TV with surround sound, and the front end has double doors that open to the back yard.  I'll see if i can whip up a sketch on MS Paint.

The center section where I'm hoping to put the A/V setup is approximately 12' x 12'.  The challenges are that the ceilings are vaulted, the area between the seating area and the TV needs to function as a pass-through to the bar/bathroom, and the back wall to the bathroom makes of the left hand portion of the A/V space. 

My plans are to hang an 82+" TV on the wall then have 11.2 surround sound with dolby atmos. (L,C,R, Wide L, Wide R, Surr L, Surr R, Atmos Front L&R, Atmos Rear L&R).  This might be absolutely overkill for the space, but I'm seeking the most immersive viewing experience I can get.

Info I'm searching for:  does anyone have atmos set up in their home, if so how do you like it? In such a small space, should I be looking at in wall speakers or should I deal with the crowding of on-wall/tower speakers.  How big is big enough or too big on the TV if I expect to be sitting 10'-11' from the screen?

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31 minutes ago, GottaB said:

I think vaulted ceilings make for poor execution of atmos but not sure. I say pose the question over at avsforums if you are going for overkill.

 

 

Edit: good luck. A theater space is badass.

Upward firing Atmos speakers on a tower would be bad options for that ceiling. 

But! Installing in-ceiling speakers for two height channels (one firing down, One firing out into the room above the tower speaker) will be incredible for the immersion. 

You can go with some bargain in ceiling speakers and go nuts. These surrounds don’t need to be expensive or increible sounding speakers as they are for the height and rear channels. You can go as far as you like 9.2, 11.2 (think two in front, two in middle, two in rear, all in ceiling), the more the better for surrounds. 

 

Then spend the real money on your front stage. Two great L/Rs and a legit center channel. Get a matching sub, possibly two to match the response through the room (it’s not about “loud” or volume, but eliminating the void mentioned in the above post). 

Once you have that squared away buy the appropriate amplification (probably a dedicated amp and pre amp) to properly power whatever you chose. The surrounds will run just fine on a regular receiver like a Denon or Marantz and then add a dedicated three channel to handle the front stage independently and for two channel music listening. That’s the only spot you really need all of the juice to go. You can get both the receiver and 3 channel  amp for $1000-1200. 

Tv size should be based on how far back you can put the viewing position but I’d look at the Sony 75 and 85 inch model for best size/dollar/quality combo. If 65 or less go with the OLED. 

Go from there, but some wall treatments (goes a long way for sound), some lighting, stripper pole etc. 

 It’s a black hole. 

Edited by ChickenSandwich
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Thanks for the responses.  What if I went for something like this on the atmos speakers?

RP-500SA_Piano-Black_Pair.jpg

Then just mounted them directly to the ceiling facing down?  The walls are all still bare studs so running cable to those locations shouldn't be an issue.

 

 

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Wow.  It sounds like you are 1%ing it.  (I sold home theater stuff 15 years ago)

I would have someone or a couple of people come out that do this for a living and give you bids on what they would do.

Then take that information and do it yourself, or if you like what they offer go with them. 

My 2c's

 

Edited by BNB
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11 hours ago, BTW said:

Also, another thing complicating the issue are the skylights.
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So working around those with in ceiling speakers may be tough. I’m open to any additional ideas y’all may have.

How are you possibly going to mount the stripper pole?

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7 hours ago, BNB said:

Wow.  It sounds like you are 1%ing it.  (I sold home theater stuff 15 years ago)

I would have someone or a couple of people come out that do this for a living and give you bids on what they would do.

Then take that information and do it yourself, or if you like what they offer go with them. 

My 2c's

 

Seriously though, this is a great idea, I guess having someone come out and give me a bid isn't committing me to anything.  And like you said, I can always just implement their ideas myself.

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My mother had her place remodeled and had a guy out.  I think she spent $10k (ceiling speakers and wall switches in every room with all the 2 tvs and receiver.)  on everything.  If I would have had the time I probably could have done it for at least half that.

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  • 2 years later...

I want a new AVR. I’m looking for one that can be used all the time for cable/streaming with good integration. I have a 5.1 system now that is capped out on HDMI and want something with a remote that handle handle it all quickly. We have google and use a firestick for most of the streaming but have an Apple TV as well. I have an older Logitech remote but it’s slow and not as intuitive as with multiple inputs.

I guess a bar would be ok but I’d rather have a full surround than a gimped one.

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I had a terrible experience with my Yamaha (YAS-108) soundbar. It got decent reviews for a budget soundbar, but the upfiring speakers paired with high ceilings meant I couldn't hear dialogue, and everything sounded muffled.

I sold it and replaced my AVR with an Onkyo TX-NR686 7.2 system. For speakers, I'm using my ancient Energy 5.1 Take Classic speakers. To connect to the rear speakers, I ran the wires behind my couch, and through 3/4" PVC piping along the baseboard where it was exposed. It's not too noticeable and infinitely better than running exposed wires.

It had been a long time since I had a surround system at home, so it was good to watch a movie where I could hear voices coming from behind, and a plane roaring overhead. 

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The only Soundbar I've had exposure to sucked. Sony. Didn't like listening to it. When it quit working my sister gave it to me. Turns out there is no external on/off switch. Who the fuck had that idea? Can't tell whether it's the remote or the unit itself that doesn't work. The only thing you can do is put a new battery in the remote. Since all three of the 2032 batteries I had were all laying around out of the packaging, I had to try each one. (Turns out one was good for sure, but still couldn't turn the unit on.) Waste of time. Really like my low end Denon, although I'd prefer some balance/tone knobs, but I guess that's ancient tech. (Originally tried low-end Onkyo, hated it, took it back)

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My setup is my TV ARC input running to the HDMI "Out" on an older Onkyo receiver, to 5.1., watching everything from my Firestick that's directly plugged into the TV. Simple enough. 

It's been working fine that way for a while, but recently it started not giving me sound when I turn on the tv and receiver. I'd power them off and back on and the sound would be back. Sometimes it took 2 reboots, but usually just one. 

Now it's not giving me any sound and nothing has changed. I tried a different Firestick and HDMI cable, but nothing. My only logical guess is the receiver is shot? It's 5 years old and the display lights have been dim for a while. The radio from the Onkyo comes out of the speakers fine, but I can't really think of anything else to check. There's not much to it.  

If I do need a replacement, any basic receiver suggestions that won't break the bank? I would only need it to do what I"m currently doing. 

 

 

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I'm in Austin. Moving in to new house which was previously wired for AV. Previous owner took much, but not all of the equipment, but there is a "pile" of amps subs etc. There is a dedicated equipment closet, but nothing there but wires sticking out that went from AV closet to essentially every room in the house. I have no clue where wires go and don't have the time or skill to trace every wire. The people I have called are only interested in new install, not figuring out an existing install. Who should I call in Austin? I will probably upgrade to some of their equipment, but presently I just need the basics.

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  • 2 months later...

Okay, gave the pile of equipment to Habitat. Now I need to hook up Spectrum. They gave me a bag of stuff, but no guidance. First question. in my "media closet" left over from the previous owners, how do I know which cable is incoming from Spectrum. I will take a chance with the one on the splitter that says "incoming", but there are several splitters and I'd like to tie into the main coax. Short of connecting a tv to each of the 15-20 loose wires, is there a way to tell if a coax has signal?

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19 hours ago, Not that Bob said:

Okay, gave the pile of equipment to Habitat. Now I need to hook up Spectrum. They gave me a bag of stuff, but no guidance. First question. in my "media closet" left over from the previous owners, how do I know which cable is incoming from Spectrum. I will take a chance with the one on the splitter that says "incoming", but there are several splitters and I'd like to tie into the main coax. Short of connecting a tv to each of the 15-20 loose wires, is there a way to tell if a coax has signal?

Easiest/quickest way is to use a multimeter set to AC voltage, then touch one probe to center of end of coax wire and second probe to outside shielding to see if getting any reading.

"Might" be able to pickup main coax as the one being stronger, but likely any showing signal will be pretty close using this method.

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  • 1 year later...

Bump.....

Just moved back into a remodel and need to upgrade AV in house.  The house is pretty wired already, but was done by prior homeowner and it's a bit of a mess.  Would like to have someone come in and leverage that and what I already have (a couple of reasonably nice, not state of the art, Denon receivers), but clean it up with uniform speakers throughout house, backyard and casita in a uniform manner (Sonos?  Heard vastly varying reports on this).  In any event, looking for ideas -- A/V Consultations is first on list, but want to talk to others.  Want someone that will work with some of the equipment I already have and just supplement/complement things.

Also has to be easy for the wife to flip on spectrum cable box with a click on and watch spectrum (belongs in that other things wives do/say thread, but whatever, I lost the cut the cord battle in my house).  

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Any advantage of Emotiva separates over Marantz? The Marantz preamp is much less expensive and the speakers are powered so an amplifier isn’t necessary. Sub, front, center , side, rear so 7-1. Any reason for more speakers? They ain’t cheap.

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We recently finished our HT in a previously inaccessible area of our attic. It was an odd space due to the roof line, but it turned out really well. The room is 14x14 with a 5x5 drink/snack nook in the corner.

Audio is 7.1 surround (two circular height speakers in the vaulted ceiling are aimed at the seats). Speakers are MartinLogan 40i Towers, 50XTi Center, ML in-wall rear surround, SVS PB-2000 sub (behind the seats in pic). This system ROCKS in this small room. Total immersion.

Seat to screen distance is about 9’, with the screen being an 83” LG G2. Denon receiver controls everything from an AV closet down the hall.

The movie posters are insulated acoustic panels with the image printed onto the fabric. Walls/ floor/ ceiling are all insulated with R-38+. We put in a solid core pocket door, which, does a great job keeping most of the sound in the room.


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4 hours ago, jofus said:

We recently finished our HT in a previously inaccessible area of our attic. It was an odd space due to the roof line, but it turned out really well. The room is 14x14 with a 5x5 drink/snack nook in the corner.

Audio is 7.1 surround (two circular height speakers in the vaulted ceiling are aimed at the seats). Speakers are MartinLogan 40i Towers, 50XTi Center, ML in-wall rear surround, SVS PB-2000 sub (behind the seats in pic). This system ROCKS in this small room. Total immersion.

Seat to screen distance is about 9’, with the screen being an 83” LG G2. Denon receiver controls everything from an AV closet down the hall.

The movie posters are insulated acoustic panels with the image printed onto the fabric. Walls/ floor/ ceiling are all insulated with R-38+. We put in a solid core pocket door, which, does a great job keeping most of the sound in the room.


1e768ffdf3813d70681967290c441c08.jpg



a18ba0a6ed925000dabe6c5f156d0ffe.jpg

seems like a good place to install a projector, the wall looks like it could easily take a 120" screen

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