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2018 Lawn and Landscape Thread

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I put some 2,4 D on my Bermuda before I realized it said not to do that. What’s the best way to remedy ?

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Charcoal. It's a raging pain in the ass. It looks like a big bag of soot. There are ones premixed in gallon and 2.5gal jugs too. Spew it on the area and water the hell out of it. Carbon grabs onto the offending chemicals. 

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Any tips on spraying for mesquitos? Leaving for the weekend so figured I would spray the yard and give it a few days where the dog won’t be out there. Or is it too early?

Starting to buy plants that help repel the bastards.  

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12 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

Charcoal. It's a raging pain in the ass. It looks like a big bag of soot. There are ones premixed in gallon and 2.5gal jugs too. Spew it on the area and water the hell out of it. Carbon grabs onto the offending chemicals. 

Thanks.  

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8 minutes ago, Washpark said:

Any tips on spraying for mesquitos? Leaving for the weekend so figured I would spray the yard and give it a few days where the dog won’t be out there. Or is it too early?

Starting to buy plants that help repel the bastards.  

Bifenthrin (aka Talstar) is my favorite all-purpose insecticide, and it is safe around pets. Also great for fleas and ticks. It is not very selective, though. It pretty much nukes all insects, so if you have any honeybees or any other beneficial insects, this may be something you want to avoid.

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6 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

Site One has Lesco Charzorb in a 2.5 gallon. 

If I can't get to it till wednesday, will that be too late.  I won't be watering between now and then. 

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22 minutes ago, Washpark said:

Any tips on spraying for mesquitos? Leaving for the weekend so figured I would spray the yard and give it a few days where the dog won’t be out there. Or is it too early?

Starting to buy plants that help repel the bastards.  

Quote

 

Many types of adult mosquitoes are found resting in vegetation during the day time. Trim and get rid of overgrowth of weeds. To get rid of adult mosquitoes spray the foliage of bushes and shrubs, lower limbs of shade trees, tall grass, and shaded areas with a residual insecticide. Residual insecticides that work well against mosquitoes include: Bifen IT, Talstar Pro (Talstar and Bifen are the same formulations), or Mavrik Perimeter. Each of these insecticides is safe, effective, affordable options when applied according to the label. Mavrik Perimeter has an added benefit of not being harmful to bees. ECO Via is an organic, botanical insecticide that is labeled for mosquito control if you prefer an organic option.

Mixing an Insect Growth Regulator like Pivot 10 would be ideal as a tank mix to these insecticides. The Pivot would decrease the number of eggs laid by the adult mosquitoes. When applying insecticides to plants, try to avoid spraying the flowers and blooms if using Bifen IT. Avoiding spraying on flowers in bloom will minimize the insecticides impact on pollinating insects such as bees, butterflies, and moths. After a proper application, you can expect to start seeing results within two to four weeks.

 

https://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/mosquitoes.htm

 

If you can't get Bifenthrin, malathion is the old school alternative, or one of the other permethrin variants. The mosquito bits look like chunks of dog food and is a bacteria that works on the larvae in the water. They hand them out for free in CA. 

 

I had a prof that used an old beater mower to spread malathion, he would put it in the cup of the breather and it would drip down into the carburetor and he'd smoke the bushes like the old fogger trucks. 

I do not recommend this. Sand aggy prof gave zero fucks

Edited by cactusflinthead

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12 minutes ago, GottaB said:

If I can't get to it till wednesday, will that be too late.  I won't be watering between now and then. 

Better late than never. How green is it? Atrazine is sometimes applied to still dormant bermuda and it's ok. 

It might be worth a call to somebody to come out and spray the charcoal. It's going to be cheaper than resodding the yard

Edited by cactusflinthead

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5 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

Better late than never. How green is it? Atrazine is sometimes applied to still dormant bermuda and it's ok. 

Its already green. 

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Honda mower or Toro [Recycler] with Briggs/Stratton?  Both same price point and similar amenities except Honda has 2 blades but no deck cleanout and Toro has 1 blade w deck cleanout

Edited by Spur08

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On 4/1/2018 at 2:09 PM, TexasEd said:

Yes, Live oaks don't drop leaves until the spring and new ones are ready to pop out,  that is why they are called live oaks, they are semi-evergreen.  Monterrey Oaks also do this.

Thanks, did not know that. I was wondering how long my tree would drop leaves.

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Honda mower or Toro [Recycler] with Briggs/Stratton?  Both same price point and similar amenities except Honda has 2 blades but no deck cleanout and Toro has 1 blade w deck cleanout

Honda. I had a toro with B/S and I hated it. Had problems the entire time I had. Replaced with a Honda 2 years ago and it’s been a whole new world.

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10 hours ago, Spur08 said:

Honda mower or Toro [Recycler] with Briggs/Stratton?  Both same price point and similar amenities except Honda has 2 blades but no deck cleanout and Toro has 1 blade w deck cleanout

You got a no for the Toro, but I have a 22" recycler and it's performed magnificently.  It's a good mower, actually a great one.  You can't go wrong with either, but I'm very happy with mine, going on about 6 years now.  B&S 7.25 HP does the trick.  Easy cleanout with strapping a hose on the fixture and running the mower.

Would get a Toro again, absolutely.

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1 hour ago, phdhorn said:

You got a no for the Toro, but I have a 22" recycler and it's performed magnificently.  It's a good mower, actually a great one.  You can't go wrong with either, but I'm very happy with mine, going on about 6 years now.  B&S 7.25 HP does the trick.  Easy cleanout with strapping a hose on the fixture and running the mower.

Would get a Toro again, absolutely.

Have you noticed any issue with the [rear] wheels?  In reading reviews, it has been a consistent problem with them falling off.  Not after a few years but, rather, after a mow or two.  Sounds like there might be some design flaw.

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4 minutes ago, Spur08 said:

 

Have you noticed any issue with the [rear] wheels?  In reading reviews, it has been a consistent problem with them falling off.  Not after a few years but, rather, after a mow or two.  Sounds like there might be some design flaw.

No, none.  I have the personal pace, and I love it.  It doesn't lock you into a speed, it adjusts to the exact speed you want to walk.  My previous mower moved slow in self-propel mode and it took me longer to mow.  This is like pushing on nothing.

The only stuff I've heard about the rear wheels is that the propel feature gives out or whatever, but again, I've had no problems with it. 

No, my wheels are solid on it.

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Got a quote recently for Real Green to aerate/topdress my 1yr old tiff lawn with compost.  About $900 for 14ksqft. Seem like a fair price? Better to spend the money elsewhere?

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The guys that installed it are over watering. They have replaced two of the junipers already. The red oak in the easement is dead. The ones across the road nearer the creek are fine. The Nellie holly drowned and most of the wintercreeper.
Not.my.problem.

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Anyone have tips for killing ground ivy (aka creepying charlie)? I live in KY and have owned my home for a year, but I didn't do much to the yard last year and various sections have become overrun with ground ivy and clover. I used a product with triclopyr and it has killed the clover pretty well, but the ground ivy hasn't been quite as affected. In some areas it turned yellow and seems to be recovering but in others I haven't noticed much change.

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14 hours ago, KYHorn said:

Anyone have tips for killing ground ivy (aka creepying charlie)? I live in KY and have owned my home for a year, but I didn't do much to the yard last year and various sections have become overrun with ground ivy and clover. I used a product with triclopyr and it has killed the clover pretty well, but the ground ivy hasn't been quite as affected. In some areas it turned yellow and seems to be recovering but in others I haven't noticed much change.

too-four-dee

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I have a new Zoysia (Palisades) lawn, ignorance, and a black thumb.  So many questions... BUT, I figured the best way to start was this:

What should I absolutely NOT do?  My greatest fear is putting something on it (weed killer, excess fertilizer, etc) that will kill or otherwise screw it up?  Remember, I'm a moron.

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1 hour ago, chesthair said:

too-four-dee

Thanks... but the research shows that 2,4 D isn't very effective against ground ivy. I'm looking for some tips from anyone who might have experience removing it from their yard and might have suggestions from personal experience to supplement the info that can be found online. https://barron.uwex.edu/files/2010/05/creepingcharlie.pdf

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It's the dicamba part of the combo that works on it. Repeat applications required not just likely .

 

Celsius works too if you want to spring for it, but it can't be used on bluegrass, fescue, rye, or bentgrass. 

Edited by cactusflinthead
Mo stuff

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26 minutes ago, KYHorn said:

Thanks... but the research shows that 2,4 D isn't very effective against ground ivy. I'm looking for some tips from anyone who might have experience removing it from their yard and might have suggestions from personal experience to supplement the info that can be found online. https://barron.uwex.edu/files/2010/05/creepingcharlie.pdf

welp, it worked for me.  

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59 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

It's the dicamba part of the combo that works on it. Repeat applications likely.

Got it. I found 2 products that contain triclopyr and dicamba (as well as MCPA) and will purchase one of those to use in addition to what I have left of the 8% triclopyr product. Thanks.

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20 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

Celsius works too if you want to spring for it, but it can't be used on bluegrass, fescue, rye, or bentgrass

Lots of fescue up here.

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On 4/3/2018 at 6:19 PM, Spur08 said:

Picked up the Honda.  Thanks to all for the input.  Kinda pumped to actually mow my lawn

well done. which model and where did you get it?

i got my hrx model last year, but the bag it came with sucks. kicks out dust everywhere. they make a low dust one but i didn’t want to spend another $100 after the $500 i already spent in the damn mower.  it’s a beast though. 

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Have St Augustine in my yard which always comes in in patches throughout the spring (& is then very thick through the summer and fall). However, one side of my yard looks especially thin and slow growing this year and there also are some greyish areas right now. Any thoughts on what I can do to promote the growth/fight off whatever this is? Already did the usual weed and feed.

d2bd15526885dcf8f390a18a59c6a37a.jpg

69b10de4c4fa54bae4e2aedf09a6fc83.jpg

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Not really. It is somewhat under the branches of a neighbor’s tree (to the left of the pic) but gets sun all afternoon through sunset (which happens to the right).

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4 hours ago, Yarbr said:

How's it look? The reviews on Lowe's were no bueno, but for $2/bag I'm going to give it a go.

I'm not real picky. I got the black and think it looks good and does its job.

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9 hours ago, Yarbr said:

How's it look? The reviews on Lowe's were no bueno, but for $2/bag I'm going to give it a go.

I used to buy this every year when it when on sale. The quality of it is shit, giant pieces of branches throughout all bags.  I finally decided to spend another $2/bag and get the finely shredded stuff that the Boy Scouts deliver to your door.  Well worth the extra cash with delivery included, all while supporting some hardworking young men

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^^its a first grind mulch. Could have contaminants in it. But then any bagged mulch may have contaminants.

It most certainly is ridiculously high in carbon to nitrogen ratio. It is good for mulching pathways or something like cardboard sheet mulching. Likely not very good for direct planting or anything near your garden. It will probably rob nitrogen from your existing soil.

At $2/bag it has a place in my opinion. Just be aware of its limitations. This likely holds true for any bagged mulch from a big box store. Now buying from whittlesey, maybe a different story.

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I had to get my sewer line replaced this week from the original 1950s line. They are in the process of tearing up my front lawn and pulling down my half-dead sweetgum that sits directly over the line. I hate my lawn as it is half Bermuda and half St Augustine. I'm thinking of either ripping out the Bermuda side, as it is where most of the line will be ripped out of my yard, or doing the whole yard over again. After I tear out the dead grass and thatch and till up the dirt, what's the best thing to lay down before the squares go down? Any sort of pre-layer that needs to be there to help the squares take root? I'm not going to re-seed as I don't have the patience. I'm just going to get the St. Augustine squares and make the whole front St. Augustine. I may plant another tree in the front on the side furthest from the new sewer line. 

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