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Rio Grande--Milk River


Kennythetiger

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I have the opportunity this summer to drive from Mexico to Montana, something of which I've always dreamed since reading Lonesome Dove.  Am going to try and combine the Goodnight/Loving route with the Lonesome Dove route, with a few variations thrown in.  Right now it's looking like flying into San Antonio, renting a car and heading west to Del Rio.  My dad is a huge fan of Paul Newman as Judge Roy Bean, so I am thinking about taking Hwy 90 through Langtry to Alpine, and continuing northwest to the Guadalupe Mountains.  From there I'll cut back northeast to Carlsbad, and then north to Fort Sumner.  "How's Jesus look to you now, Bob?"  

From Raton Pass I'll probably take I-25 up to Douglas, Wyoming and head north from there.  

Posting for restaurant, camping, do this/don't do that suggestions, as Texas and southern New Mexico will be brand new country for me.  Route is not set in stone, either- looking at a map it just seemed like the best way to combine Charles Goodnight, Lonesome Dove, Pat Garrett, and Roy Bean. 

Thank you in advance for any advice.  Let's go on and go if we're goin'.

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Don't forget your Passport because of you want to cross the border at Del Rio/Ciduad Acuna for a quick Cerveza Fria, you will need it to comeback.    You will probably make it to Alpine by night of Day 1.  It's a cool little town.  Some of the dudes and dudettes on here can fill you in on the better places to eat, stay and drink on here than I can at the moment. 

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Raton to WY on 25 seems like a waste.  I would go straight up the gut in Colorado.  Roughly Raton to Salida to Walden to Douglas is a better use of your time.  You’ll still be going 65 most of the time using that route.  It’s not all mountain passes and slow driving.  

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If this is a historical trip, you may consider going on to Ruidoso instead of Carlsbad.  Cool respite in the mountains in the summer with all kinds of housing and great food.  Short drive when leaving to historical Billy the Kid Trail town of Lincoln.  Nice drive on to Fort Sumner or further.

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13 hours ago, Nueces River Rat said:

Don't forget your Passport because of you want to cross the border at Del Rio/Ciduad Acuna for a quick Cerveza Fria, you will need it to comeback.    You will probably make it to Alpine by night of Day 1.  It's a cool little town.  Some of the dudes and dudettes on here can fill you in on the better places to eat, stay and drink on here than I can at the moment. 

Thank you for the advice. Will do. 

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9 hours ago, PRONG HORN said:

Raton to WY on 25 seems like a waste.  I would go straight up the gut in Colorado.  Roughly Raton to Salida to Walden to Douglas is a better use of your time.  You’ll still be going 65 most of the time using that route.  It’s not all mountain passes and slow driving.  

Thanks for the suggestion. I am from the High Plains and have done I-25 a hundred times. My map has a page break right over the route you’re suggesting so I never thought of that.  Great idea.  Thanks again. 

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6 hours ago, ruitxn said:

If this is a historical trip, you may consider going on to Ruidoso instead of Carlsbad.  Cool respite in the mountains in the summer with all kinds of housing and great food.  Short drive when leaving to historical Billy the Kid Trail town of Lincoln.  Nice drive on to Fort Sumner or further.

Thank you. 

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5 hours ago, ruitxn said:

If this is a historical trip, you may consider going on to Ruidoso instead of Carlsbad.  Cool respite in the mountains in the summer with all kinds of housing and great food.  Short drive when leaving to historical Billy the Kid Trail town of Lincoln.  Nice drive on to Fort Sumner or further.

It sounds like you have your heart set on a more easterly route, but for me, the only reason to go through Carlsbad is for the caverns, but don't be that guy.  Unless you like mingling with slow moving lines of tourists, they are a disappointment.  If you insist on going that way, consider a little side trip to Sitting Bull Falls...a gorgeous little oasis out in the middle of nowhere.  It takes longer than it looks on the map, so plan for that, and take your swimsuit. 

Ruidoso and Cloudcroft are both cool little towns, and I would absolutely plan a route that goes through them instead of Roswell.  That said, if the entire state were in play, my preference would be going up 180 through the Gila, with side trips to the Buckhorn Saloon in Pinos Altos, the Catwalk near Glenwood, and the ghost town of Mogollon (best to visit on the weekend; they can be standoffish during the week).

New Mexico is called the Land of Enchantment for very good reason.  It is a highly underrated state full of natural beauty and fascinating history.  You'll enjoy it regardless of the route. 

 

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As others have stated try to avoid interstates, I’d suggest to plan most of your trip up to Montana off interstate highways.  So much better country to view as interstates almost always follow most level routes/easiest paths to engineer.

Del Rio, Langtry, Marathon, Alpine, Fort Davis, (small stretch of I-10) Van Horn, Guadalupe Mountains NP, Artesia, Cloudcroft, Alamogordo, White Sands, Carizozo, Vaughn, Santa Fe, Taos, Great Sand Dunes NP, Salida, Buena Vista, Antero, Fairplay, Breckenridge,  Frisco, Kremmling, Steamboat Springs, Craig, Dinosaur NM, Vernal, Red Canyon, Green River, Fontenelle, Pinedale, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, West Yellowstone, Ennis, Bozeman, White Sulphur Springs, Lewistown, Big Sandy, and Harve.

Use interstates to return or a thousand other non-interstate routes on the return.

Blue Highways rule.

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5 hours ago, MalibuSheriff said:

As others have stated try to avoid interstates, I’d suggest to plan most of your trip up to Montana off interstate highways.  So much better country to view as interstates almost always follow most level routes/easiest paths to engineer.

Del Rio, Langtry, Marathon, Alpine, Fort Davis, (small stretch of I-10) Van Horn, Guadalupe Mountains NP, Artesia, Cloudcroft, Alamogordo, White Sands, Carizozo, Vaughn, Santa Fe, Taos, Great Sand Dunes NP, Salida, Buena Vista, Antero, Fairplay, Breckenridge,  Frisco, Kremmling, Steamboat Springs, Craig, Dinosaur NM, Vernal, Red Canyon, Green River, Fontenelle, Pinedale, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, West Yellowstone, Ennis, Bozeman, White Sulphur Springs, Lewistown, Big Sandy, and Harve.

Use interstates to return or a thousand other non-interstate routes on the return.

Blue Highways rule.

I highly approve of your Colorado route. That is some beautiful country. 

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Man, Malibu is like having my own Josh Deets.  

Starting to come together, thanks to you guys.  I had planned on I-25 for most of the north-south route, as that was the original route by Goodnight/Loving, but based on everyone's recommendations, I think I'll scrap that.  As noted above, it's also a road that I have traveled many times.  

I would still like to see Fort Sumner, so from Guadalupe I'll head north to Fort Sumner, with a detour for Sitting Bull Falls (thanks idig).  Cross the Sangre de Cristos around Taos, and take that valley between the San Juan Mountains and the Sangre de Cristos north to Salida.  From there head north using Pronghorn and Malibu's route until Walden.  Will hook a right and head towards Woods Landing.  I've gathered cows off a ranch there several times, and it will be good to see that place again.  I still have my heart set on Miles City and the Milk River, so it looks like I can catch a Highway 59 that will take me most of the way there.  The precipitating event of this journey is a family reunion outside of Glacier National Park, and it looks like I can take Highway 2 west almost all of the way there.  

Have realized the travel time involved, and will have to scrap the rental car in Missoula and fly back to Denver rather than drive.

Thank you guys again for all of your recommendations.

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This sounds awesome. So what are the other details? Is it you and your dad, anyone else coming along? Do you plan on stopping along the way for any significant amount of time, or just really stopping for a night and a meal or two? Are you driving the rental car the whole way? If so, what are you thinking of renting? For such a long drive, that is important. Also, I hope you plan on posting as you go or at least a recap afterwards. Vicarious living and all.

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You don’t necessarily need your passport if you’re just hopping over to a border town and coming right back. I did it in Nuevo Progreso just 2 months ago with just a drivers license, and that’s even with my very stereotypically hispanic first & last name. The agents will give you shit about it but if you have any ID and you’re fluent in English they should let you back. I guess it’d be easier with a passport though.

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1 hour ago, Spaulding Smails said:

I'd vote to spend a little time in Alpine, but try to make it to Fort Davis for night 1.  Stay at Hotel Limpia and catch the Star Party at the McDonald Observatory.  Only 30 minutes from Alpine and on the way to Guadalupe Mountains.

I second the Star Party, and Hotel Limpia is a fine choice if you want to spend the night in town.  That said, my first choice would be Indian Lodge, especially if you do intend to visit the observatory. 

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On 3/24/2019 at 12:43 PM, MalibuSheriff said:

As others have stated try to avoid interstates, I’d suggest to plan most of your trip up to Montana off interstate highways.  So much better country to view as interstates almost always follow most level routes/easiest paths to engineer.

Del Rio, Langtry, Marathon, Alpine, Fort Davis, (small stretch of I-10) Van Horn, Guadalupe Mountains NP, Artesia, Cloudcroft, Alamogordo, White Sands, Carizozo, Vaughn, Santa Fe, Taos, Great Sand Dunes NP, Salida, Buena Vista, Antero, Fairplay, Breckenridge,  Frisco, Kremmling, Steamboat Springs, Craig, Dinosaur NM, Vernal, Red Canyon, Green River, Fontenelle, Pinedale, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, West Yellowstone, Ennis, Bozeman, White Sulphur Springs, Lewistown, Big Sandy, and Harve.

Use interstates to return or a thousand other non-interstate routes on the return.

Blue Highways rule.

Add in: Fort Davis, Balmorhea, (Slightly longer stretch of I-10), Van Horn.

Balmorhea pool: imagine Barton Springs in the desert with mountains in the background. Less talent laying around, however.

Added bonus: the drive from Fort Davis to Balmorhea is one of the most scenic 25 mile stretches of HW I've ever driven.

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Man, you're going to have a great trip.  If you haven't, be sure to check out the Surly Roadtrip Gems thread and map, there's a lot of good shit there which has served me well.

There's so much good stuff you can't do it all, but the upside of that is that you can't go wrong with any of the above advice.  I especially concur on the Colorado route along the Arkansas river.  Beautiful country, cool towns, and great people.  Amigo Motor Lodge was a fun place to stay in Salida if it happens to fall that way on your route, and a good excuse to hit up some of the breweries.

I can't ever argue against going through Santa Fe, but if you want something more off the beaten path, I have a sentimental soft spot from my youth for the route going Ft. Sumner -> Santa Rosa -> Las Vegas -> Mora -> Taos.  Blue Hole is a cool (well, cold) diversion in Santa Rosa, and you can drive through downtown Las Vegas and relive killing commies in Red Dawn.  My family loves staying at the Taos Inn, and sitting in the courtyard there with a jalapeno margarita as the sun sets and the neon lighted sign comes on is one of those places for me which makes everything in the world seem right.

Hope you have a great time.  Damn, I'm jealous.  Not enough time off this summer for an epic road trip.

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Sitting Bull Falls for the MF’n win. When I was a kid you could hike all the way to the falls up top. Last time I was there they had closed it off. Damned shame. 

 

Also echo the McDonald observatory recommendation. I proposed to my wife there around midnight 12 years ago at Christmastime. Not a soul around, a blanket, bottle of wine, and more stars than I ever dreamed could be in one sky. There was no moon so it was DARK. Couldn’t even see the ring of her hand to put it on it. I was scared I’d drop the damned thing and lose it.

I need to take the wifey back there. We stayed at the Paisano Hotel and ate at Jett Grill beforehand. 

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3 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

Add in: Fort Davis, Balmorhea, (Slightly longer stretch of I-10), Van Horn.

Balmorhea pool: imagine Barton Springs in the desert with mountains in the background. Less talent laying around, however.

Added bonus: the drive from Fort Davis to Balmorhea is one of the most scenic 25 mile stretches of HW I've ever driven.

Definitely make sure to go through Balmorhea to the pool. It had been shut down for several months for structural problems with the concrete on the edge, but recently reopened. 

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/25/2019 at 10:07 AM, JSB said:

This sounds awesome. So what are the other details? Is it you and your dad, anyone else coming along? Do you plan on stopping along the way for any significant amount of time, or just really stopping for a night and a meal or two? Are you driving the rental car the whole way? If so, what are you thinking of renting? For such a long drive, that is important. Also, I hope you plan on posting as you go or at least a recap afterwards. Vicarious living and all.

Dad is not riding along, he and my mom are in their 70s and are flying to Montana.  Just girlfriend (pics on Shaggy, r.i.p.)- we've rented a small SUV from Alamo in San Antonio.  Thank you guys all for your recommendations.  Everything is starting to come together for a pretty good route.  

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