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Mojo Hand

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Yeah it's really not even about the money. I'm pissed that I spent months building the thing little by little as I had time. Got everything exactly as I wanted and then a week later this happens. I could have hired someone to build it from the beginning, but the whole point was me building it for my kids to enjoy and hopefully them remembering that someday.

 

I was already pissed about the tree coming down before this. It also crushed the fence which we coincidentally already had scheduled to be replaced this Friday.

 

I blew up on the guys. Neighbor looked a little scared honestly. They said they would pay for it, but again, not really the money I'm concerned about. And I sure as fuck am not going to have whatever handyman they know touch it.

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Buzzrock said:

Let’s say I needed this opening to be about an inch or two wider:

e0ac6e13e26f68a67140780a4e1903c0.jpg

How should I go about it?

Is there a way to clamp a guideboard to it, if you open the cabinet doors and drawers over and under?  If so, then a jigsaw or reciprocating saw would work.  Maybe even a router with  long straight bit. 

 

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On 4/20/2020 at 1:11 PM, Okie State said:

Yeah I actually don't see anything in my HOA rules which is surprising. We're in unincorporated Fort Bend so I'm pretty sure anything goes here. I like my neighborhood overall, but the street behind us has some trashy people who make dumbass decisions like this. Looking forward to moving in a few years.

Same. Our neighbors behind us are 90% why I want to be out of our house in the next year or two.

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19 hours ago, ROFL BOX said:

Cut the wood.

I've heard hedge trimmers work well.

In all seriousness, if your new appliance has a trim that's going to hide imperfections, just use a jigsaw or fine tool.  If it's going to be visible, try to use a track saw of clamp a guide to the edge that you can use to run a straight line with a router.  If it can be removed and you can work it on a bench then reinstall it, that would be ideal.

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I've heard hedge trimmers work well.
In all seriousness, if your new appliance has a trim that's going to hide imperfections, just use a jigsaw or fine tool.  If it's going to be visible, try to use a track saw of clamp a guide to the edge that you can use to run a straight line with a router.  If it can be removed and you can work it on a bench then reinstall it, that would be ideal.


Yes I bought the wrong size microwave and yes that front panel comes off with just a couple L brackets. I was thinking jigsaw too. I don’t have one but I know where to get one.
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On 4/22/2020 at 2:40 PM, Buzzrock said:

Let’s say I needed this opening to be about an inch or two wider:

e0ac6e13e26f68a67140780a4e1903c0.jpg

How should I go about it?

We cut a lot of metal electrical enclosures to install panel mounted displays and HMIs, sometimes putting in a larger screen for an upgrade. This is very similar.  

Get some blue painters tape and layout the dimensions on the surface that you want. Make the tape lines straight and put the tape on the outside of the cut, anything inside the cut will be scrap.  Put down two layers of tape to define the cut line and to keep the saw from marring the rest of the surface.  Use a  jigsaw to cut along that tape line.

Enjoy your newly installed microwave.

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33 minutes ago, Buzzrock said:

 


Yes I bought the wrong size microwave and yes that front panel comes off with just a couple L brackets. I was thinking jigsaw too. I don’t have one but I know where to get one.

If the front panel comes off, unscrew it... disassemble the "picture frame", then use a table saw & reassemble / re-screw.

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1 hour ago, ROFL BOX said:

If the front panel comes off, unscrew it... disassemble the "picture frame", then use a table saw & reassemble / re-screw.

 

16 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Listen to this man he has a cool avatar.

Roofing slug turned trim carpenter.

 

 

What could possibly go wrong?

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On 4/23/2020 at 8:47 AM, Spaulding Smails said:

I've heard hedge trimmers work well.

In all seriousness, if your new appliance has a trim that's going to hide imperfections, just use a jigsaw or fine tool.  If it's going to be visible, try to use a track saw of clamp a guide to the edge that you can use to run a straight line with a router.  If it can be removed and you can work it on a bench then reinstall it, that would be ideal.

Fein.

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I'm attaching a doubled up 2x12 ledger board to a concrete foundation for a deck. I'm trying to figure out if I should use epoxy secured anchors or expansion/wedge anchors. The epoxy is pretty pricey and a slower applicattion compared to wedge anchors, but I've read online epoxy is a much stronger hold. Is the difference in hold strength worth the price and trouble? 

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2 hours ago, Orale said:

I'm attaching a doubled up 2x12 ledger board to a concrete foundation for a deck. I'm trying to figure out if I should use epoxy secured anchors or expansion/wedge anchors. The epoxy is pretty pricey and a slower applicattion compared to wedge anchors, but I've read online epoxy is a much stronger hold. Is the difference in hold strength worth the price and trouble? 

@Onboard 2.0 please pick up the burnt-orange courtesy phone

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20 minutes ago, Gil Bang said:

@Onboard 2.0 please pick up the burnt-orange courtesy phone

Man....... never a moments rest.  I prefer the epoxy because they seem to have a longevity increase over a wage anchor.  I don't know how much more the epoxy set anchors are. Proper installation is key for both 

I'd be specifying  (2)  @ 16" o.c. staggered along the ledgers length.  Anchor length gets long with (2) ledgers. Not sure you really need 2.  I usually specify 1 and then face hangers for the deck joists.  I'd imagine the mfgrs have a chart for min. embedment depth in the epoxy and concrete core.

 

I'm also assuming this is a crawlspace residence ? You may also have local codes that require a gap between decking and foundation to eliminate potential rot. 

 

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20 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Man....... never a moments rest.  I prefer the epoxy because they seem to have a longevity increase over a wage anchor.  I don't know how much more the epoxy set anchors are. Proper installation is key for both 

I'd be specifying  (2)  @ 16" o.c. staggered along the ledgers length.  Anchor length gets long with (2) ledgers. Not sure you really need 2.  I usually specify 1 and then face hangers for the deck joists.  I'd imagine the mfgrs have a chart for min. embedment depth in the epoxy and concrete core.

 

I'm also assuming this is a crawlspace residence ? You may also have local codes that require a gap between decking and foundation to eliminate potential rot. 

 

I can't imagine why anyone would double-up the ledger.  If it's anchored every 16", I wouldn't think two would be any stronger than a single.

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48 minutes ago, Gil Bang said:

I can't imagine why anyone would double-up the ledger.  If it's anchored every 16", I wouldn't think two would be any stronger than a single.

It's a commercial building and that's what the structural engineer called for. I was curious about that as well and read on an engineering forum that the double board is required to allow for sufficient nail length (3") for the joist hangers. My engineer called for the anchors to be staggered every 12". 

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21 minutes ago, Orale said:

It's a commercial building and that's what the structural engineer called for. I was curious about that as well and read on an engineering forum that the double board is required to allow for sufficient nail length (3") for the joist hangers. My engineer called for the anchors to be staggered every 12". 

Yes, he's correct.  Big anchors.  1/2" or 5/8" dia. ?  12" is pretty tight, but it'll hold like shit.

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13 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Yes, he's correct.  Big anchors.  1/2" or 5/8" dia. ?  12" is pretty tight, but it'll hold like shit.

It said 1/2", but I thought for liability purposes to do 3/4". Doesn't cost much more. 

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6 hours ago, Orale said:

It's a commercial building and that's what the structural engineer called for. I was curious about that as well and read on an engineering forum that the double board is required to allow for sufficient nail length (3") for the joist hangers. My engineer called for the anchors to be staggered every 12". 

wtf?  tico nails used to be short as fuck.  1 1/4 IIRC   I've never, ever seen hardware hung with a long nail. 

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I built 3 bike ramps for the kids and me.
2046fce5b75b32678c4c3be6a4b4d168.jpg


Do you know the location of the nearest emergency room? Asking for 13 yo me. It sucked wearing one of those old plaster casts the first two months of summer and not being able to swim.





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1 hour ago, davidg said:

 


Do you know the location of the nearest emergency room? Asking for 13 yo me. It sucked wearing one of those old plaster casts the first two months of summer and not being able to swim.




 

 

Yep, been there.  Broke both forearm bones in 5th grade from a bike crash, fractured the right elbow radial head in the mid 90's, endoed a mountain bike off a ledge and couldn't close my jaw all the way for a week or so, tore up my shoulder in a weird kayak wipeout, and most recently broke my left elbow radial head as a 47 year-old still trying teach my kid to ollie a skateboard.   So far my legs have stayed mostly healthy but there's still time to fuck them up too.  

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