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Recommendations in London & Paris?


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On 4/6/2022 at 8:44 PM, LonghornJones said:

Wife and I are going to be in Paris for 1 night on the back end of our trip in early June (Staying in 3 arr. on the front end for 2 nights.)

What is a good area/arrondissement to get a hotel in order to hop from cafe to cafe drinking wine, snacking, and people watching? We are 40+ and just looking for a chill evening in a beautiful city. I know nothing of Paris, but we will be doing the touristy stuff on the front end. I just want a safe area I can stumble back to my hotel.

You can get that in any neighborhood. But Marais/Bastille is a popular one for bistros as suggested. And I like St Germain de Pres, its real bougie like. 

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2 hours ago, LonghornJones said:

I have been to Paris 20 years ago, but went with the family. I have done all the touristy stuff. Paris bookends our week in Mykonos.

I am asking for a fun place I can booze and walk to my hotel safely as I know nothing of the area.

got it.  but has your wife ever been?   i'm not knocking you, don't get me wrong.  there's probably not a better place in the world to sit at a cafe, drink, and peoplewatch.   it's just curious that you would be in such a bucket list of a city and miss out on some world class art, history, architecture, etc.

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28 minutes ago, thrillhammer said:

got it.  but has your wife ever been?   i'm not knocking you, don't get me wrong.  there's probably not a better place in the world to sit at a cafe, drink, and peoplewatch.   it's just curious that you would be in such a bucket list of a city and miss out on some world class art, history, architecture, etc.

We have both been and seen the major attractions. On the front end, we are there for 2 nights and seeing some things I have not seen, and vice versa. On the way back, we are there for 1 night, and just chillin together in Paris with some wine while judging others.

 

I opted for Hotel and Spa Saint Jacques.

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28 minutes ago, LonghornJones said:

We have both been and seen the major attractions. On the front end, we are there for 2 nights and seeing some things I have not seen, and vice versa. On the way back, we are there for 1 night, and just chillin together in Paris with some wine while judging others.

 

I opted for Hotel and Spa Saint Jacques.

Youre a stones throw from Ciasa Mia which is really really cozy nice diner. Although its Italian (modern) in origin rather than French

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1 hour ago, LonghornJones said:

We have both been and seen the major attractions. On the front end, we are there for 2 nights and seeing some things I have not seen, and vice versa. On the way back, we are there for 1 night, and just chillin together in Paris with some wine while judging others.

 

I opted for Hotel and Spa Saint Jacques.

congratulations on keeping shopping off her agenda.   if you can get by sitting at a cafe drinking and peoplewatching, you're doing all the good.

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13 hours ago, thrillhammer said:

So you've never been to paris and are going to be there for 3 nights total?  you're going to have to heavily filter what you want to accomplish.  as far as best area for cafes/nightlife i would go with latin quarter or marais.

This is correct.  I prefer the Latin Quarter, but the Marais will also get you what you want.

Enjoy.  It's a wonderful city.

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Chartes is a 2-hour train/walk from any central metro gare.   Even before the fire, it eclipsed Notre Dame as one of the wonders of Europe.   Worth 1 of your 4 days.   Louvre another full day.

France is a very difficult place to eat fast on-the-go.

In addition, assume you will not have a toilet for 8-10 hours at a time.

The concept of public toilets is still a difficult subject the moment you get away from hotels and most restaurants will refuse your request to use their facilities unless you sit down and serve your punishment for being not french and in a hurry.

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  • 6 months later...

I'm landing Paris in a week and haven't done any homework. Apparently staying roughly at the boundary of 10/11/19/20 Arrondisement. What's around me? What should I do?

Will be there a week, family wants to visit Versailles and Disney, and wants to shop. I just want food. No need for Michelin fancy. Would especially appreciate (and may regret) shopping recs.

 

672168030_parismap.thumb.JPG.593e964d11f17412df28e99aa1b6fb60.JPG

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1 hour ago, Sam Lin said:

I'm landing Paris in a week and haven't done any homework. Apparently staying roughly at the boundary of 10/11/19/20 Arrondisement. What's around me? What should I do?

Will be there a week, family wants to visit Versailles and Disney, and wants to shop. I just want food. No need for Michelin fancy. Would especially appreciate (and may regret) shopping recs.

 

672168030_parismap.thumb.JPG.593e964d11f17412df28e99aa1b6fb60.JPG

Once I’m at my computer, I’ll send you a ton of stuff.

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2 hours ago, Sam Lin said:

I'm landing Paris in a week and haven't done any homework. Apparently staying roughly at the boundary of 10/11/19/20 Arrondisement. What's around me? What should I do?

I just want food. No need for Michelin fancy. 

 

 

Lots of good, non-Michelin stuff relatively nearby, depending on what you're looking for.  Amarante is my favorite but not for everyone.  Very well done classic French food: sole, sweetbreads, foie, tete de veau, etc. with a great natural wine list in a spare setting.  One FOH, chef cooks everything, no substitutions, etc.  Usually bookable with a couple days notice.  L'Ebauchoir is more of a neo-bistro, so lighter bistro fare very well done, friendly service.  Also a good wine list.  Usually bookable a couple days out.  Le Baratin also somewhat nearby... bistro but with more classic options.  Food can be very good.  If you're dining solo or with a small group, you might be able to walk in to Le Servan at opening for lunch.  For a bigger group with more classic food, Benoit is probably a good option.  These are all within 15 to 35 minutes walking from where it appears you'll be.

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5 hours ago, Sam Lin said:

I'm landing Paris in a week and haven't done any homework. Apparently staying roughly at the boundary of 10/11/19/20 Arrondisement. What's around me? What should I do?

Will be there a week, family wants to visit Versailles and Disney, and wants to shop. I just want food. No need for Michelin fancy. Would especially appreciate (and may regret) shopping recs.

 

672168030_parismap.thumb.JPG.593e964d11f17412df28e99aa1b6fb60.JPG

 

3 hours ago, creeper said:

Lots of good, non-Michelin stuff relatively nearby, depending on what you're looking for.  Amarante is my favorite but not for everyone.  Very well done classic French food: sole, sweetbreads, foie, tete de veau, etc. with a great natural wine list in a spare setting.  One FOH, chef cooks everything, no substitutions, etc.  Usually bookable with a couple days notice.  L'Ebauchoir is more of a neo-bistro, so lighter bistro fare very well done, friendly service.  Also a good wine list.  Usually bookable a couple days out.  Le Baratin also somewhat nearby... bistro but with more classic options.  Food can be very good.  If you're dining solo or with a small group, you might be able to walk in to Le Servan at opening for lunch.  For a bigger group with more classic food, Benoit is probably a good option.  These are all within 15 to 35 minutes walking from where it appears you'll be.

For restaurants and eats:

I second Le Baratin.  It is excellent.  Here are some photos from my 2017 meal there.

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Le Baratin also has some really interesting natural wines.  It is a place I want to revisit.  

Le Servan is absolutely outstanding. We had a great meal there this most recent trip.  I am still trying to do the writeup, but I cannot recommend this enough.  You can make reservations for Le Servan online.

Amarante allegedly has the best chocolate mousse in Paris.

Other places nearby:

1.  Le Chateaubriand or Le Dauphin (11th).  That might be a little too fancy though, however, Le Dauphin next door is outstanding.  It is the more casual wine bar next to Le Chateaubriand.  I have been to both, and you cannot go wrong with either.  

2.  Le Chardenoux (11th).  I went there on Sunday night on my most recent visit to Paris.  I sat at the bar and had a great meal. (https://www.mlleshetravels.com/single-post/2022-paris-trip-a-real-and-surreal-journey-on-day-2-in-paris)

3.  Clamato (11th).  I have not been, but it is the more casual place from the same folks behind Septime.  I have been to Septime.  I would recommend hitting this if you can.

4.  Le Cadoret (19th).  This is another one on my list that I just did not make it to on my last trip.  

5.  Bistrot Paul Bert (11th).  Steak au poivre and frites.  Followed by Paris Brest.  You are welcome.

i-V2njp3f-X2.jpg

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6. Pouliche (10th).  Here is my review from my recent trip.  (https://www.mlleshetravels.com/single-post/2022-paris-trip-tracing-artists-haunts-in-montmartre-on-day-3)

7.  Sadarnac (20th).  This is another on my list that I just did not make it to. (https://www.restaurantsadarnac.fr/)

8.  Les Arlots (10th).  Another on my list.  Have not made it yet. https://www.facebook.com/lesarlots

9.  Le Rigmarole (11th).  Another on my list.  https://www.lerigmarole.com/

10.  Cafes etc... including La Fontaine de Belleville (10th), Ten Belles (10th), Cafe Mirabelle (11th), Holybelly (10th), Mokonuts (11th)

Now onto shopping.  I am not sure what budget you are looking at.  Skip Chanel and Hermes.  Savings are minimal.  Louis Vuitton, there are tons of shops, and the savings are quite substantial compared to the US.  

My personal favorite is Goyard.  Savings are substantial, and it makes a fantastic souvenir.  Lines have been long at 233 Rue St. Honore, so either try and get an appointment, or pop by their Chic du Chien location across the street and down the block at 352 Rue St. Honore (both of these are in the 1st Arrondissement), or their location in Printemps department store (8th).

Speaking of department stores, there are three main ones...Printemps, Galeries Lafayette (both of these are in the 8th) and Au Bon Marche.  The first two have roof decks and are impressive.  The third is also impressive but on the left bank.  

For more unique shopping, you can hit up E. Dehillerin for kitchen wares (great knives, Anthony Bourdain bought a duck press).  And, perhaps unique to Paris is Deyrolle, a taxidermist.  

If you let me know what kind of shopping you are looking for, I can help.

On the Versailles and Disney front, I do not know why people go to Paris to go to Disney.  Seems like a waste.  Versailles will be packed, and unless the weather is good, I would avoid it.  The site to see there is the gardens, and in bad weather, that cannot be enjoyed.  But in good weather, it is absolutely gorgeous.   

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Js1 said:

Subscribed. I’ll be in Paris at the end of the month for a few days before Copenhagen. Staying in Marais 

Have you been to Copenhagen before?

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Just now, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Nice.  I like Copenhagen.  I have been 4 times.  It is a fun town.  Lot of good food.  Let me know if you want some recommendations.  There might be info on my thread.  :D

I'd love some, actually!  My personal itinerary is like 3 days in Paris (my second time), 1.5 days in Luxembourg (bc why not and I bet they have gorgeous Christmas markets) and then we will be in Copenhagen for 4 days)

All of this is post-Thanksgiving

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1 minute ago, Js1 said:

I'd love some, actually!  My personal itinerary is like 3 days in Paris (my second time), 1.5 days in Luxembourg (bc why not and I bet they have gorgeous Christmas markets) and then we will be in Copenhagen for 4 days)

All of this is post-Thanksgiving

For Paris, do a lot of window shopping.  The Christmas windows, while not as nice as NYC, are good.  Do me a small favor, pop by Goyard at 233 Rue St. Honore and take pics of their windows.  They usually do some really cool stuff with bags and trunks.  

On Paris recs, since you are going to be there by yourself, my favorite restaurants right now are Montee (check out my website for multiple reviews) and Mosuke (AMAZING.  The write up on that one is coming soon).  Mosuke is hard to get a res for, so have the Concierge at your hotel do that for you.  

One of my favorite things to do in Paris is to post up in one of the cafes (the ones on Boulevard Montparnesse are fun) and drink wine and watch people.  Folks have been going to Rotonde lately and saying the food is amazing, so those are good things to while the day away.

Oh, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette are GORGEOUS at Christmas, so definitely stop in.  This is Galeries Lafayette from a few years ago.

i-sNkhQsf-X2.jpg

 

 

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Hers is Galeries Lafayette from the year before that one.  

i-8z3rQLX-X2.jpg

The used to have the big Christmas Market on the Champs Elysee, and they have others in town, but just keep an eye out for those.  I know some of them have changed.  All in all, Paris is gorgeous at the holidays.  

Now, onto Copenhagen.  They also have Christmas markets. The last time I was there, the main one was closed as the new subway station was under construction, but I bet it is back.  I will go back through my trips and add the Copenhagen restaurant and bar recommendations.  I went to a LOT of places. 

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10 hours ago, Sam Lin said:

Will be there a week, family wants to visit Disney,

Pay for Premiere Access. It's an additional $90/person but you go to the front of the line for each ride once. The lines move much slower than at DLR or WDW.  With PA, the longest we waited was 3 minutes and we rode everything by 2pm.  My kid said that if you take a screenshot of the QR code and scan that instead of scanning it from your Disneyland Paris App, that the app won't mark off the ride and you can ride multiple times. I don't know if that actually works, but it may be worth a shot since it's like 5 seconds of effort to test it out. 

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Thanks so much everyone, suddenly I have lots of options!

 

A bit of clarification: The map I posted above wasn't clear enough, the red line was supposed to point to the pin for Marche Belleville, my Airbnb is next to Marche Belleville.

I've been to Paris twice, have visited some of the big tourist spots before - I will gladly revisit the Louvre as many times as I have time for, if schedule allows. Otherwise I just enjoy walking around the area. I see on the map that there's a huge Cemetery du Pere Lachaise not far from me, with tomb of Edith Piaf, Chopin, Bizet, Jim Morrison(?), Proust, Modigliani, many others. Will definitely go walk around in there. And I see what looks to be a Chinatown, a whole pile of Chinese restaurants and stores, just a few blocks NW, will definitely go browse.

Do you have any recs for secondhand fashion shops, with focus on bags/purses? She likes browsing vintage fashion. Wife will like purses etc, and appreciate the comments about which brands have the best price differential between US and EU. Don't worry too much about budget, we won't buy that much but we really enjoy the browsing. (At the same time, don't point us to a private shopper or boutique where they would be offended if we just window shopped; wasted a bunch of their time and then didn't buy anything.)

Will definitely visit E. Dehillerin, I'm a nerd for kitchen stuff.

I remember visiting a small leather maker who did watch straps and bags during a previous trip, and I enjoy "small craftsman" stuff, any genre.

I also enjoy local open markets, looking online I see that there are quite a few morning markets around the area.

What's the best way to make restaurant reservations if I don't have a hotel concierge? Will English and some broken French work if I call them myself? (studied French in a past life, was actually conversationally fluent at one point, now I barely remember bonjour and merci)

I don't think Versailles/Disney are negotiable, one of them may be, but not both. Will keep the comments about weather in mind and may play it by ear to go on the nicest day we have. Wife also wanted to visit La Vallee Village outlets near Disney - is it worth the visit?

 

Again, thank you!!

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On 11/1/2022 at 10:58 PM, Sam Lin said:

What's the best way to make restaurant reservations if I don't have a hotel concierge? Will English and some broken French work if I call them myself? (studied French in a past life, was actually conversationally fluent at one point, now I barely remember bonjour and merci)

 

A lot of places take reservations online now.  Others will respond to email.  But a call is always a good idea, and I bet your broken French will be sufficient.

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On 11/2/2022 at 4:58 AM, Sam Lin said:

Thanks so much everyone, suddenly I have lots of options!

 

A bit of clarification: The map I posted above wasn't clear enough, the red line was supposed to point to the pin for Marche Belleville, my Airbnb is next to Marche Belleville.

I've been to Paris twice, have visited some of the big tourist spots before - I will gladly revisit the Louvre as many times as I have time for, if schedule allows. Otherwise I just enjoy walking around the area. I see on the map that there's a huge Cemetery du Pere Lachaise not far from me, with tomb of Edith Piaf, Chopin, Bizet, Jim Morrison(?), Proust, Modigliani, many others. Will definitely go walk around in there. And I see what looks to be a Chinatown, a whole pile of Chinese restaurants and stores, just a few blocks NW, will definitely go browse.

Do you have any recs for secondhand fashion shops, with focus on bags/purses? She likes browsing vintage fashion. Wife will like purses etc, and appreciate the comments about which brands have the best price differential between US and EU. Don't worry too much about budget, we won't buy that much but we really enjoy the browsing. (At the same time, don't point us to a private shopper or boutique where they would be offended if we just window shopped; wasted a bunch of their time and then didn't buy anything.)

Will definitely visit E. Dehillerin, I'm a nerd for kitchen stuff.

I remember visiting a small leather maker who did watch straps and bags during a previous trip, and I enjoy "small craftsman" stuff, any genre.

I also enjoy local open markets, looking online I see that there are quite a few morning markets around the area.

What's the best way to make restaurant reservations if I don't have a hotel concierge? Will English and some broken French work if I call them myself? (studied French in a past life, was actually conversationally fluent at one point, now I barely remember bonjour and merci)

I don't think Versailles/Disney are negotiable, one of them may be, but not both. Will keep the comments about weather in mind and may play it by ear to go on the nicest day we have. Wife also wanted to visit La Vallee Village outlets near Disney - is it worth the visit?

 

Again, thank you!!

I will send a couple of places to look through. When I was there in May, I actually did an AirBnB experience where someone took us around to do vintage shopping.  I got some great Fendi heels (brand spanking new, in box) and a really cool 1970's YSL Kaftan.  

Unfortunately, on the handbag market, it is fucking impossible to find a deal anymore. 

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