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On 1/7/2022 at 12:32 AM, Celery Man said:

For the slightly more po folks - didn’t need much in the way of clothes in 2020-21 but have noticed that North Carolina is a bit cooler and much wetter than Austin. Bought a Barbour jacket and it’s my new favorite thing this winter.

ive had 2 barbours (classic motorcycle wax) worn as city jackets doing nothing particularly different in them and both ended up smelling like ass.  a mix of abandoned attic and faint cigarette.

tried everything...washed it hot, froze it cold, air dried, re-waxed... cant get smell off. now its just used what i suppose is its intended purpose - working around the yard.

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  • 1 month later...

My office has trended away from ties post-pandemic, but I have a more formal event tonight with tie required. I have a closet full of Brooks Brothers ties, but think I’ll take this opportunity to upgrade with 1 or 2 higher quality options.

Any consensus on brands that can be bought on sight? There is a Brioni store and Turnbull and Asser store near my office (and Bergdorf if need be), which seem like solid choices based on internet sleuthing. I’d like to stay under $300. 

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54 minutes ago, Reynolds Woodcock said:

My office has trended away from ties post-pandemic, but I have a more formal event tonight with tie required. I have a closet full of Brooks Brothers ties, but think I’ll take this opportunity to upgrade with 1 or 2 higher quality options.

Any consensus on brands that can be bought on sight? There is a Brioni store and Turnbull and Asser store near my office (and Bergdorf if need be), which seem like solid choices based on internet sleuthing. I’d like to stay under $300. 

Go to is Drake's because they have the best selection of tasteful patterns.  But as I see now they have muchhh narrower selection than when I last shopped from them years ago.

I don't ascribe brand-specific quality to ties.  What I choose to wear and buy is based on appearance (size/fabric/pattern), usually on a whim when im already buying other apparel.  Have other rando ones from Borelli, Attolini, but most often and most recently Kamakura and G650's favorite store SuitSupply

Edited by 52-80
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Drakes has really gone downhill in many respects. I would hit Turnbull if you want ease, they will have plenty of quality ties. Otherwise, my favorite ties are usually E Marinella or F. Marino, but they don't help for tonight. If you go to BG they sell Charvet.

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1 minute ago, G650 said:

Drakes has really gone downhill in many respects. I would hit Turnbull if you want ease, they will have plenty of quality ties. Otherwise, my favorite ties are usually E Marinella or F. Marino, but they don't help for tonight. If you go to BG they sell Charvet.

Thanks, I did indeed hit Turnbull. In and out with a classic in under 10 mins. 

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  • 3 months later...

the tendency for people commenting on tailoring/suiting vs their actual sense of taste is somehow diametrically opposed.

i dont browse the menswear internets.  but on something completely unrelated, like on an athlete's social media post, 99% of the time when someone mentions the suit (whether as praise or jeer), an angel loses its wings.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

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3 hours ago, Celery Man said:

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

 

brooks brothers on sale / close out

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7 hours ago, Celery Man said:

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

https://kamakurashirts.com/

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11 hours ago, Celery Man said:

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

https://www.charlestyrwhitt.com/us/homepage
 

i used to get these a lot. Solid shirts. 

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12 hours ago, Celery Man said:

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

Itailor custom shirts.  I ordered some shirts last year and they seem to be wearing well.

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16 hours ago, Celery Man said:

Recs for middle of the road dress shirts? Not fuckin.... savile row but not kohls discount rack, shirts to wear while generally being better dressed than schlubs in dockers and golf shirts but while also contributing aggressively to a 529. Brooks is my default, but I'm kinda pissed off at them for ditching proper sizing on pocketed OCBDs.

Kamakura is definitely a good option though they have dropped in stature a bit these days I hear.

 

I get my shirts from Harvie & Hudson, you also have Budd, Turnbull on Jermyn St that are solid.

 

Btw Savile Row is suits, Jermyn St is the shirt equivalent.

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they have a number of different fabrics for their shirts.  because i am in texas, i liked their twill stuff because it is so light.  their slim fit shirts are solid for in between dressing occasion and casual.  depending on the rotation, they will last you a year or two.

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it's been a longgg time since i bought british shirts.  i remember receiving from tyrwhitt shirts with really strange fits and odds details like ultra short collars, that wasn't apparent on the online shop.  tyrwhitt, thomas pink, and tm lewis seemed to anchor their reputation on the jermyn street heritage, but simultaneously pushing fashion-forward stuff like loud patterns and 2x button barrel cuffs etc.

i dont need radical in my shirts, so i just stick to reliable kamakura for bengal stripes, and plain whites/blues/pinks/lilacs.

(harvey and hudson was never slim enough otr for me)

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27 minutes ago, 52-80 said:

it's been a longgg time since i bought british shirts.  i remember receiving from tyrwhitt shirts with really strange fits and odds details like ultra short collars, that wasn't apparent on the online shop.  tyrwhitt, thomas pink, and tm lewis seemed to anchor their reputation on the jermyn street heritage, but simultaneously pushing fashion-forward stuff like loud patterns and 2x button barrel cuffs etc.

i dont need radical in my shirts, so i just stick to reliable kamakura for bengal stripes, and plain whites/blues/pinks/lilacs.

(harvey and hudson was never slim enough otr for me)

they have reverted back to pretty boring stuff for the last 5 years.  not terribly loud, etc...

but don't be hating on double buttoned barrel cuff...staple of my go-tos.

https://shop.brunellocucinelli.com/en-us/men/ready-to-wear/shirts/slim-fit-shirt-222M0UC41718.html

https://shop.brunellocucinelli.com/en-us/men/ready-to-wear/shirts/oxford-shirt-222MS6660028.html

https://shop.brunellocucinelli.com/en-us/men/ready-to-wear/shirts/poplin-shirt-222MR6241718.html

 

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1 hour ago, sidis said:

they will last you a year or two.

 

That's all? Yikes. I get at least 5 years out of my shirts, and that's just because my whiskers are like a wire brush and I grenade the collars. I may have 6 short sleeve summer shirts and 6 or 8 winter brushed cottons, not terribly sure exact number, but they tend to go awhile.

 

When I mentioned fabric I wasn't really referring to weave, but the cloth merchant. I prefer Acorn and Ringhart for British stuff and Alumo for more euro. I honestly have no idea what fabric CT uses.

 

 

35 minutes ago, 52-80 said:

 

(harvey and hudson was never slim enough otr for me)

Yeah they were very classic for a long time. They did introduce a slim RTW line I believe. I'm a bespoke customer with them so I don't have too much familiarity with the RTW stuff.

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6 minutes ago, G650 said:

 

That's all? Yikes. I get at least 5 years out of my shirts, and that's just because my whiskers are like a wire brush and I grenade the collars. I may have 6 short sleeve summer shirts and 6 or 8 winter brushed cottons, not terribly sure exact number, but they tend to go awhile.

 

When I mentioned fabric I wasn't really referring to weave, but the cloth merchant. I prefer Acorn and Ringhart for British stuff and Alumo for more euro. I honestly have no idea what fabric CT uses.

 

 

Yeah they were very classic for a long time. They did introduce a slim RTW line I believe. I'm a bespoke customer with them so I don't have too much familiarity with the RTW stuff.

wait, you wear clothes more than once?

200.gif

it really depends.  you live in virginia...it is rarely 106 there.  if you live in texas where it is 106 for a billion straight days, if you wear something more than once in summer, it will often start to struggle in the collar and armpits...even with 2 lbs of deodorant on after a year or two.

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Fabric yo.

 

Man, you don't want to mess with Tidewater summer. I've had this conversation before here somewhere or other and some Texan was actually here in DC at the time and was stunned at the summer heat and humidity.

 

Hell it was 98% humidity here on Tues. In September.

ETA I was just counting my work shirts. Yes I wash them every week

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I like ledbury for dress shirts. Small company based out of Virginia, seems the founders worked in London for a while. Really solid materials and construction, especially the collar which hold up well and hit my jacket lapel perfectly.

For shoes, I wore AE walnut strands for years and thought they were amazing. However, I recently bought some Carmina wholecuts and Crockett and jones loafers and the finishing is way better than anything I've seen from AE. Looking at getting Crockett and jones black captoe Oxford from their handmade line next.


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19 minutes ago, Celery Man said:

How do the c+j’s fit compared to the AE? I’d like to try some but I hate the whole process of trial and error with online shoes and the AE last they use for strands/parks/5ths fits perfectly. Maybe I should remember to go by the store next time I’m in NYC.

You answered your question in my opinion. Just go the next time you are in New York. I’ve used both Midtown and Soho locations. The former will be less crowded and will likely have an older salesman (for better or worse). 

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Been curious about Crockett&Jones for a while.

Question for those of you who have used both AE and CJ, how long does each one last before wearing out? I like and use AE because I can recraft and get a couple lives out of each pair of shoes, so I get pretty good lifetime per dollar. Shoe cost is 200-250 (on sale), recraft at 125 twice, I get three lifetimes for $500 total.

I don't think CJ has their own recrafting program, what are you guys paying for an independent cobbler to resole a CJ?

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6 hours ago, G650 said:

I've had this conversation before here somewhere or other and some Texan was actually here in DC at the time and was stunned at the summer heat and humidity.

Yeah I've spent the last few summers up there, and several times it was equal to or even a reprieve when I'd land in Houston.  As stupid as that sounds. 

 

6 hours ago, G650 said:

I'm a bespoke customer with them so I don't have too much familiarity with the RTW stuff.

How does that work?  They build to your measurements?  I liked a lot of their stuff.  

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inflation be crazy though.  i've gotten lots of C&J when they were 300-400 retail, but now have all crept up to 600+ (not even handgrade). 

but vass from budapest never changes.  i get them fully made-to-order, arriving at my door for 400eur and some change. 

since most shoes wear heavily at the toes, you can add rubber or metal inserts in place of leather.  if they wear at the heel, the heel stack can be replaced without a full resoling.  and if you walk lots, vass can spec any of your shoes in double-sole.

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7 hours ago, Sam Lin said:

Been curious about Crockett&Jones for a while.

Question for those of you who have used both AE and CJ, how long does each one last before wearing out? I like and use AE because I can recraft and get a couple lives out of each pair of shoes, so I get pretty good lifetime per dollar. Shoe cost is 200-250 (on sale), recraft at 125 twice, I get three lifetimes for $500 total.

I don't think CJ has their own recrafting program, what are you guys paying for an independent cobbler to resole a CJ?

 

C&J do complete rebuilds on the original last if you want. They send them back to the UK.

Being in construction I don't do a lot of oxfords or anything on a daily basis. My main shoes are Rancourt Camp Mocs in the summer and Dubarry Chelsea boots in the winter, both companies offer complete recrafting as well. Dubarry does it for free, I've had my boots redone once by them already.

 

 

7 hours ago, fattyflattie said:

Yeah I've spent the last few summers up there, and several times it was equal to or even a reprieve when I'd land in Houston.  As stupid as that sounds. 

 

How does that work?  They build to your measurements?  I liked a lot of their stuff.  

Yeah they just take your measurements and cut it to that. There's two levels, MTM which is a stock pattern they build to your size, and bespoke which is where they actually make a pattern specific to you and build your shirts off that. The pattern is a set of paper stock that is an outline of the individual panels of cloth your shirt (or trousers, jacket etc..) is stitched together from.

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