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Big Bend - Alpine - Marfa - Fort Davis


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13 hours ago, EdTomBell said:

Headed to the area next week for the first time in 20 years, traveling with wife and a 13 year old. Staying at a house in Marfa (sucks, got it) for a week.  Planning on two full days in the park, hitting Boquillas, Rio Grande village, lost mine, balanced rock and Santa Elena. Dinner at Starlight, the Gage, and Reata in Alpine.  We have reservations for the observatory, and are planning to spend a day doing the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad.
 

Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).
 

Dining recommendations?  Looks like several of the Marfa restaurants recommended in this thread are closed. Shopping and galleries for the wife?

Hotel St. George's is open.  Get a reservation and eat there.

Paisano is open.

One thing we did is went to the local hipster grocery store -- The Get Go -- and put together a charcuterie plate.  Grab some wine and we ate lunch in the Paisano courtyard.  They did not care as they were not open for lunch.

The drug store in Fort Davis has good food also.

Make sure one day coming back from state park you drive the river road to Presidio and then up north to Marfa.  It is a gorgeous drive.

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If the pool at the Hotel St. George is open and weather cooperates, it's worth a stop. I think non-guests have to pay. Has a bar and food. Check out the Balmorhea state park website as they've had lots of closures for repairs in recent years and you don't want to make that drive for nothing. Well worth it if it's open and warm enough to swim. 

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1 hour ago, MidTexHorn said:

If the pool at the Hotel St. George is open and weather cooperates, it's worth a stop. I think non-guests have to pay. Has a bar and food. Check out the Balmorhea state park website as they've had lots of closures for repairs in recent years and you don't want to make that drive for nothing. Well worth it if it's open and warm enough to swim. 

It was open in November.  They keep it heated.

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20 hours ago, EdTomBell said:

Headed to the area next week for the first time in 20 years, traveling with wife and a 13 year old. Staying at a house in Marfa (sucks, got it) for a week.  Planning on two full days in the park, hitting Boquillas, Rio Grande village, lost mine, balanced rock and Santa Elena. Dinner at Starlight, the Gage, and Reata in Alpine.  We have reservations for the observatory, and are planning to spend a day doing the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad.
 

Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).
 

Dining recommendations?  Looks like several of the Marfa restaurants recommended in this thread are closed. Shopping and galleries for the wife?

It looks like you have it covered.  That will keep you busy.  I'd take a heavy coat and a blanket to the observatory.  It gets cold/windy as fuck up there rapidly as the sun goes down.

There is a new (to me) coffee shop and restaurant in Terlingua Ghost Town near the Starlight that was fantastic!  I don't have a name, but it won't be hard to spot.  Great breakfast and coffee.  Very fresh and not overpriced.   The best shopping might be at the Paisano and it is limited.  Buns 'N Roses is a great casual place to eat in Marfa and I don't think I've seen it mentioned.  Cool people in there.  If you're getting booze in Marfa, the Cactus liquor store is badass.  

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It looks like you have it covered.  That will keep you busy.  I'd take a heavy coat and a blanket to the observatory.  It gets cold/windy as fuck up there rapidly as the sun goes down.
There is a new (to me) coffee shop and restaurant in Terlingua Ghost Town near the Starlight that was fantastic!  I don't have a name, but it won't be hard to spot.  Great breakfast and coffee.  Very fresh and not overpriced.   The best shopping might be at the Paisano and it is limited.  Buns 'N Roses is a great casual place to eat in Marfa and I don't think I've seen it mentioned.  Cool people in there.  If you're getting booze in Marfa, the Cactus liquor store is badass.  

This place. It’s great.

Espresso Y Poco Mas
(432) 371-3044
https://goo.gl/maps/EaHZDtC97yyKoGyD8
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Headed out there again myself this week.  The gf's daughter has never camped.  We're doing a Star Party at the Observatory and staying the night in Ft Davis to visit my grandparents' graves the next morning.  Breakfast at the Drug Store, which is still good but not at all as cool as when it was a full blown soda fountain when I was a kid and not so much the sappy gift shop it is today... but I digress.  Then into the park.  Lost Mine, Balanced Rock, Hot Springs, and Santa Elena are on the agenda.  Camping at Upper Madera in BBRSP and doing day trips into BBNP from there, except I do have one night at a spot down Old Ore Road.  It's a spur of the moment trip and that's what was available.  Coffee and breakfast at Espresso Y Poco Mas is a must if you're near there.  We probably won't eat at Starlight this trip, but it's the best dinner meal around the park for sure.  

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On 3/6/2022 at 10:29 PM, EdTomBell said:

Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).

I've canoed through Santa Elena and Boquillas canyons and both are great, with SE being more dramatic.  The river has been more or less perpetually low for a long time now but I think it's generally still high enough to run.  Lots of outfitters out of Terlingua.  

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36 minutes ago, EdTomBell said:

Thanks all. Will definitely check out the coffee shop in Terlingua.

Great!  Since you're going to the Observatory, you might think about spending time at the Davis Mountains State Park.  Some good hiking, but also a nice drive up Skyline.  Indian Lodge has a nice little visitors center good for relaxing and taking in some quiet views.  It would be a good place to have a picnic before the star party.

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Headed to the area next week for the first time in 20 years, traveling with wife and a 13 year old. Staying at a house in Marfa (sucks, got it) for a week.  Planning on two full days in the park, hitting Boquillas, Rio Grande village, lost mine, balanced rock and Santa Elena. Dinner at Starlight, the Gage, and Reata in Alpine.  We have reservations for the observatory, and are planning to spend a day doing the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad.
 
Other suggestions?  Thought about rafting, but looks like the river is low. Would Balmorhea pool be worth it in March (highs in the upper 70s).
 
Dining recommendations?  Looks like several of the Marfa restaurants recommended in this thread are closed. Shopping and galleries for the wife?

Nobody knows the area better than these guys. Very cool dudes too.
https://www.desertsportstx.com/
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  • 2 weeks later...

Big Bend is still great. Two kids (12 and 9). Rented a subdivided house in Study Butte (Chisos Mining Co, Santa Fe unit).

Day 0: drive. Dinner at taco place in Terlingua.

Day 1: Big Bend Ranch SP. Hiked Escondido Spring Loop. Packed lunch, ate at Saucedo.

Day 2: Lost Mine (arrived at trailhead before dawn and still barely got parking). Lunch at Basin restaurant. Recreated anniversary pics (got married at the Basin Wndow Overlook trail). Afternoon hike Santa Elena. Kids love to climb boulders in the canyon shade. Old Maverick headed out. Luna's Jacal is basically my happy place. I can't exaxplain it.

Day 3: Grapevine Hills am hike, lunch in Boquillas. Souvenir shopping. Burro rides. Pm hike in Boquillas Canyon for the kids to get filthy on sand dune.

Day 4: rented a jeep, drove River Road east to west. Lunch and hike at Masical Mine. Ice cream at Castalon to celebrate. Old Maverick to tell Luna about finally checking off the RR.

Day 5: drove home. Did both Fort Lancaster and Fort McKavett. At Fort Lancaster we were the only ones and they give you a golf cart to drive around. Lol

Next time we will do: Pine Canyon (after doing the RR I'm confident we can get to the trailhead); Cattail Falls (intended to go but no parking because of road work so did the Grapevine Hills); Closed Canyon; maybe do a boomerang kayak/canoe up Santa Elena (or north of park, depending on water level); Window + Basin (or finally take the kids up South Rim if they are ready). And of course do a Boquillas side trip, but this time I want to visit the hot springs on the Mexican side. It's only a half mile upriver. 

Anyone done Peguis Canyon from Ojinaga? It's supposed to be cool, mostly safe, and not far at all.

I'm dieing to do Pine Canyon. If I do that, I'll think I'll have done every hike but the truly nuts high desert backpacking trips. We were going to do it, but I chickened out. If RR west is "hard" then I am 100% confident in doing it. 

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Big Bend is still great. Two kids (12 and 9). Rented a subdivided house in Study Butte (Chisos Mining Co, Santa Fe unit).
Day 0: drive. Dinner at taco place in Terlingua.
Day 1: Big Bend Ranch SP. Hiked Escondido Spring Loop. Packed lunch, ate at Saucedo.
Day 2: Lost Mine (arrived at trailhead before dawn and still barely got parking). Lunch at Basin restaurant. Recreated anniversary pics (got married at the Basin Wndow Overlook trail). Afternoon hike Santa Elena. Kids love to climb boulders in the canyon shade. Old Maverick headed out. Luna's Jacal is basically my happy place. I can't exaxplain it.
Day 3: Grapevine Hills am hike, lunch in Boquillas. Souvenir shopping. Burro rides. Pm hike in Boquillas Canyon for the kids to get filthy on sand dune.
Day 4: rented a jeep, drove River Road east to west. Lunch and hike at Masical Mine. Ice cream at Castalon to celebrate. Old Maverick to tell Luna about finally checking off the RR.
Day 5: drove home. Did both Fort Lancaster and Fort McKavett. At Fort Lancaster we were the only ones and they give you a golf cart to drive around. Lol
Next time we will do: Pine Canyon (after doing the RR I'm confident we can get to the trailhead); Cattail Falls (intended to go but no parking because of road work so did the Grapevine Hills); Closed Canyon; maybe do a boomerang kayak/canoe up Santa Elena (or north of park, depending on water level); Window + Basin (or finally take the kids up South Rim if they are ready). And of course do a Boquillas side trip, but this time I want to visit the hot springs on the Mexican side. It's only a half mile upriver. 
Anyone done Peguis Canyon from Ojinaga? It's supposed to be cool, mostly safe, and not far at all.
I'm dieing to do Pine Canyon. If I do that, I'll think I'll have done every hike but the truly nuts high desert backpacking trips. We were going to do it, but I chickened out. If RR west is "hard" then I am 100% confident in doing it. 

Been quit a while but have driven from Ojinaga to Peguis and back. Didn’t have time to explore but really enjoyed the drive.

Rode mtn. Bikes from Lajitas to Parque and San Carlos Canyons near Manuel Benavides.
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On 3/19/2022 at 3:11 PM, CleverNickname said:

Next time we will do: Pine Canyon (after doing the RR I'm confident we can get to the trailhead)

We did Pine Canyon 2 years ago and the road wasn't too bad.  You have to go slow, but it's not terrible.  You don't even need 4 wheel drive if it isn't wet.  I did it in my Tahoe, but I passed 2 sedans on my way out and I assume they survived.  I personally wouldn't do it in a sedan. 

One thing to note on Pine Canyon: get to the TH early.  There's only room for about 5 or 6 cars, if I recall.  It would suck to drive 40 minutes on that road and not be able to park.  Maybe you could find an area of the road to pull off to the side, but it's pretty dang thick and rocky out there; it can be a little tricky just to deal with cars coming the opposite way.  Also, there's no shade for about half the trail, so an early start is necessary if it's warm.

It's a great hike and definitely worth checking out.  Lots of solitude.      

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/19/2022 at 3:11 PM, CleverNickname said:

Big Bend is still great. Two kids (12 and 9). Rented a subdivided house in Study Butte (Chisos Mining Co, Santa Fe unit).

Day 0: drive. Dinner at taco place in Terlingua.

Day 1: Big Bend Ranch SP. Hiked Escondido Spring Loop. Packed lunch, ate at Saucedo.

Day 2: Lost Mine (arrived at trailhead before dawn and still barely got parking). Lunch at Basin restaurant. Recreated anniversary pics (got married at the Basin Wndow Overlook trail). Afternoon hike Santa Elena. Kids love to climb boulders in the canyon shade. Old Maverick headed out. Luna's Jacal is basically my happy place. I can't exaxplain it.

Day 3: Grapevine Hills am hike, lunch in Boquillas. Souvenir shopping. Burro rides. Pm hike in Boquillas Canyon for the kids to get filthy on sand dune.

Day 4: rented a jeep, drove River Road east to west. Lunch and hike at Masical Mine. Ice cream at Castalon to celebrate. Old Maverick to tell Luna about finally checking off the RR.

Day 5: drove home. Did both Fort Lancaster and Fort McKavett. At Fort Lancaster we were the only ones and they give you a golf cart to drive around. Lol

Next time we will do: Pine Canyon (after doing the RR I'm confident we can get to the trailhead); Cattail Falls (intended to go but no parking because of road work so did the Grapevine Hills); Closed Canyon; maybe do a boomerang kayak/canoe up Santa Elena (or north of park, depending on water level); Window + Basin (or finally take the kids up South Rim if they are ready). And of course do a Boquillas side trip, but this time I want to visit the hot springs on the Mexican side. It's only a half mile upriver. 

Anyone done Peguis Canyon from Ojinaga? It's supposed to be cool, mostly safe, and not far at all.

I'm dieing to do Pine Canyon. If I do that, I'll think I'll have done every hike but the truly nuts high desert backpacking trips. We were going to do it, but I chickened out. If RR west is "hard" then I am 100% confident in doing it. 

I camp every year at PC2.  Pine canyon road isnt a big deal at all.   Any crossover can make it unless its rained a bunch.

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  • 2 weeks later...
23 hours ago, Steel Shank said:

We stopped at Balmorhea on a Wednesday in late March. Got there about 6pm. Had the whole place to ourselves. One of the coolest spots in Texas and you have the whole place to yourself? I'll take it.

(Would've liked to have laid some pipebut the wife was not DTF.)

Did you check out the snack bar menu?  I thought of you when I did.

0DBB4205-98AE-4557-A867-BD9035C8BF35_1_105_c.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

I’m going next month near the end of June to Fort Davis for 3 days. I have tickets to McDonalds Observatory for big telescope and the star party the next day. Already have place to stay at the Hotel Limpia.

This will be my first solo road trip in a long time. It’s about a 6 hour drive. Any tips and tricks and stuff I can do out there? Might go to Marfa for the lights but not sure yet. I really just wanna drive around and check out the views.

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On 5/21/2022 at 4:34 PM, mdmost said:

Going to the Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns on a long weekend next October. May try to see if we can White Sands NP but that might be too far of a stretch. 

 

If at all humanly possible, stay in or near Carlsbad, buy your tickets the day before, and get to the caverns early as you can. If you can get there early enough and get in the first group they let walk into the caverns, it'll seem like you'll have the entire caverns to yourself, for a little while at least. Then prepare for the looong wait to take the elevator back up. They really pack you into the elevator, made my claustrophobia flare up a little.

 

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  • 3 months later...

Back in the spring I realized my kids (8 and 11) have a 4-day weekend in October thanks to the screwy school schedule, so I grabbed the last site in the Basin campground for that weekend.  So, we'll be heading down in a few weeks.  Unfortunately...this will be over OU weekend.

This is going to be our second trip down there. We went in Oct/Nov 2020 when a lot of things were shut down.  We stayed in Terlingua that trip, so this will be our first time camping in the park.  On that trip we did the Fossil Exhibit, Boquillas Canyon, Upper Burro Mesa Pouroff, Santa Elena Canyon, Lost Mine, Close Canyon and Balanced Rock.  I posted about that trip on this thread a few pages back:  

 

Apparently things have been crazy in the park this summer.  Chisos Basin Campground has been closed for a month because it got overrun by aggressive black bears eating mesquite berries.  I think they officially opened back up today, so hopefully we'll be good to go.  There was also a ton of rain in August, so Santa Elena is closed as well as part of Lost Mine.

We're going to drive out there (from Dallas) early Friday and setup camp.  Not sure if we'll have time to do much once we get there.  Maybe we could try the Window trail for sunset, but I'm not sure we'll be settled in time for that.  I'd like to try and do South Rim on Sunday if I can talk my wife into it.  We were going to try the Boquillas crossing because it was closed in 2020, but I forgot the kids' passports expired last year and I don't think we'll get them replaced in time.  

Given everything we've already seen, any suggestions for hikes and sites with the kids?  We'll have 2 full days on Saturday and Sunday.  Since we'll be in the park, is there any place to explore after dark?  Also, since we'll be there during the OU game, are there any good spots to catch the game around Terlingua or Lajitas?  Or for that matter, reliable radio stations in the park?  Listening to the game on the radio while hiking through the desert sounds like a good way to spend a day.

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South Rim is pretty amazing and don't let anyone tell you that it's too much for kids that age.  If your kids are troopers and athletic they can handle it.  But if it were me I'd do that over two days and not all in one.  All in one day is a major hike for even the most serious adult hikers.  Someone else can give the specifics but it's got to be close to 20 miles round trip with a LOT of elevation gain for the whole round trip.  My kids did it over two days and we camped at the top.  I think there's only one spring to resupply water on the hike and it can be dry sometimes.  There is no way around carrying a lot of weight if you need 2 days of water for 4 people.  

If you don't do South Rim, Lost Mine is the next most beautiful hike.  6ish miles round trip I think.  You can also head up towards the South Rim and enjoy some scenic spots with good views inside the basin without actually going all the way to the rim.  The border crossing at Boquillas is a must-do item if the passports get done in time.  My kids have been to the park several times and that has always been their favorite part of it.  There is an option to walk into town from the river, but don't.  Take the horses.  Those guys need the money and there are several muddy creek crossings and a network of trails to get turned around on.  The kids will like the horse ride.  There are 2 restaurants in Boquillas and we always eat at the one on the right as you walk into town from the Mexican customs building.  I like it and the food is good, but the other might be fine too.

I doubt anywhere in Terlingua shows the game.  I could be wrong.  There's the Starlight there but I don't remember any TVs on.  The whole town is pretty much a place to escape TV and the real world.  There is wifi in the Basin now.  Not sure how reliable the signal would be for streaming, but it's there. 

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2 hours ago, Your Mom said:

South Rim is pretty amazing and don't let anyone tell you that it's too much for kids that age.  If your kids are troopers and athletic they can handle it.  But if it were me I'd do that over two days and not all in one.  All in one day is a major hike for even the most serious adult hikers.  Someone else can give the specifics but it's got to be close to 20 miles round trip with a LOT of elevation gain for the whole round trip.  My kids did it over two days and we camped at the top.  I think there's only one spring to resupply water on the hike and it can be dry sometimes.  There is no way around carrying a lot of weight if you need 2 days of water for 4 people.  

Yeah, the tough reality is that I'd end up carrying most of that water and gear for 4 people.  Plus, there was a fire at the South Rim last year so there are no toilets at the South Rim or East Rim campsites and you have to pack out your poop.  Not a huge selling point for my wife.  South Rim (without Emory Peak or the East Rim) is 12.5 miles.  I guess that assumes I drive up to the Visitor Center and don't hike straight from the campground.  The plan would be to hike up Laguna Meadows and then come down the Boot Canyon/Pinnacles side.  Depending on how we're feeling, we could shorten things by cutting across Colima Trail, which would make it 8 miles total.  We've done 5 & 6 mile hikes with the kids, so I'm sure they could handle 8 (at least).

Hiking the South Rim Trail in Big Bend (Plus Emory Peak & East Rim)

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1 hour ago, fuggled said:

Yeah, the tough reality is that I'd end up carrying most of that water and gear for 4 people.  Plus, there was a fire at the South Rim last year so there are no toilets at the South Rim or East Rim campsites and you have to pack out your poop.  Not a huge selling point for my wife.  South Rim (without Emory Peak or the East Rim) is 12.5 miles.  I guess that assumes I drive up to the Visitor Center and don't hike straight from the campground.  The plan would be to hike up Laguna Meadows and then come down the Boot Canyon/Pinnacles side.  Depending on how we're feeling, we could shorten things by cutting across Colima Trail, which would make it 8 miles total.  We've done 5 & 6 mile hikes with the kids, so I'm sure they could handle 8 (at least).

Hiking the South Rim Trail in Big Bend (Plus Emory Peak & East Rim)

Personally, I think the East Rim is actually prettier than the South Rim, but it does add that 3.3 miles.  If you were doing an overnight, that's what I would suggest, but all in one day?  Probably stick to the South Rim, just for distance.

I went last October and there was plenty of water in Boot Canyon.  Ask the Rangers.

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That’s true about East Rim being nicer than South. I tend to think of the whole area up there as South Rim but the campsites are called East for a reason and it is definitely worth the extra miles. 

Expect the temps to be at least 10 degrees cooler up there than whatever it is on the desert floor.  My guess is warm days with jacket weather at night up top and long sleeve shirt weather in the basin at night. My only fall trip was last November and we got snow on the way down from Emory Peak. That was unusual though. It was that snowstorm that passed through a couple months before snowpocalypse.  

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3 hours ago, fuggled said:

Yeah, the tough reality is that I'd end up carrying most of that water and gear for 4 people.  Plus, there was a fire at the South Rim last year so there are no toilets at the South Rim or East Rim campsites and you have to pack out your poop.  Not a huge selling point for my wife.  South Rim (without Emory Peak or the East Rim) is 12.5 miles.  I guess that assumes I drive up to the Visitor Center and don't hike straight from the campground.  The plan would be to hike up Laguna Meadows and then come down the Boot Canyon/Pinnacles side.  Depending on how we're feeling, we could shorten things by cutting across Colima Trail, which would make it 8 miles total.  We've done 5 & 6 mile hikes with the kids, so I'm sure they could handle 8 (at least).

Hiking the South Rim Trail in Big Bend (Plus Emory Peak & East Rim)

 

I like to go the other direction, coming down the laguna meadows side. The Pinnacles trail is steep. Personally, I'd rather go up the steep than down.

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1 hour ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

I like to go the other direction, coming down the laguna meadows side. The Pinnacles trail is steep. Personally, I'd rather go up the steep than down.

I hear you, I'd prefer a gentler downhill route too. But for some reason, kids seem to be the opposite.  They don't like to climb, but they have those young knees that just bounce down the steep stuff.

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18 hours ago, RollLeft said:

Anyone every see Mt. Lions while visiting?

 

Did the South Rim trail back in 2018 with the wife. 1.5-2 miles into the trail up the pinnacles side near the first camground, we saw a mtn lion just off the trail as we turned the corner. It was startled as well, as it quickly paced about 6-8 steps off the trail, turned its head back at us, and watched us walk up pinnacles. I tried to pull out my phone as we passed within maybe 25-30 feet from it. However, wifes hands were pushing me forward so fast, I didnt have a chance to snap a pic

 

The rest of the 7.5hr/12 mile hike, I thought every shadow/snapping twig was that mtn lion stalking us. Coolest experience ive ever had hiking
 

/csb

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On 9/13/2022 at 4:24 PM, deft said:

What’s it take to get to the top of Emory? I don’t do any recreational running or aerobic type activities and I’m a man, I’m 40. Will I need the new iphong satellite model so they can at least retrieve my body from its last known point?

Emory is totally doable for the average person. I think the big difference would be that fitter people will do it faster. I’ve only been up it one time and it was last year. It’s a long day hike and it’s uphill all the way out and downhill all the way back. To the tune of several thousand feet I guess. I will say that the rocky climb at the very top was much more technical than I thought it was going to be. About half the people that reached the summit when we did opted not to scramble up the rocks at the end to the very top. I’m surprised they don’t have a broken ankle or two every week up there.   

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On 9/13/2022 at 9:29 AM, RollLeft said:

Curious, how did it go?

It was wonderful. Had a big steak from the sotol distillery, evening BBQ from Convenience West, and just lived on west Texas time for a few days. It wasn't as hot as Dallas and every day we got a rain dump around 3pm that took the edge off the dry heat. Even better time was had at the McDonald Observatory seeing stars and a dark sky I've never ever seen before. 

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