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waterproof paint on concrete floor?


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I have a utility room that 2/3 underground/basement. I live is a very leaky neighborhood where the water seeps into basements from below when the water table rises with any significant rain. An answer is a french drain and sump pump, but I'm not ready for that yet. I am using Rust-Oleum Zinsser Watertite waterproofing paint (oil based) to try to reseal the room from the inside (never as good as doing so from the outside). I can see at least one layer of old waterproofing and one layer of what looks like black mastic all underneath a random paint job to hide the warts. No bigger pain in the ass than someone painting concrete that gets wet all the time...shopvac clogs with all those damn paint bubbles and chips. Anyway, I had planned to paint the walls and floors with two coats. After I'm already in to the project I read that this stuff is not recommended for floors with any foot traffic. And it's a matte finish that does not seem like it will hold up to much storage/foot traffic.

I do want to seal the floor and walls with the same stuff as the seepage is almost entirely where the floor (concrete) meets the walls (cinder block with some brick and wood in places). So I wants a consistent barrier across that seam. And a few of the leaks are about a foot into the floor area as it's seeping from the seam, and going underneath previous layers of sealant to where if has flaked off. So I need to extend this stuff at least a couple of feet on the floor in to have a complete barrier. I pressure washed to get up as much of the old stuff as possible and not inclined to go any further as it's a laundry room underground...so I kinda don't need it to be perfect or beautiful.

So, should I just paint the floor with the sealant and use it and not worry about the label?

Should I paint over the sealant walking areas with something else? Label says not to, and I don't want more paint that will just bubble up and be a pain in the ass.

I could use some non-slip crap like on concrete stairs?

Should I slap some self stick vinyl tiles on the walking areas? I read that those don't do well when they get wet?

I could throw ply wood down, but also not great when wet.

Any great Surly/Shag suggestions for this one? Whatever I do, I am sure I will need to redo in 5-10 or until I can get the whole basement a french drain and sump pump.

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I have a painted outdoor basketball court that has held up pretty beautifully for 4-5 years, no cracking or bubbling, and I live in the North with lots of rain and snow. The stencils were sprayed with standard inverted marking paint and the base color was rolled on Sherwin Williams porch and floor. Neither have shown much wear and tear. I did not use any kind of a sealant below or on top after doing some research at the time. 

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7 hours ago, baboso said:

Well that seems like a really obvious and perfect solution and a product I should have known existed! Thanks man.

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20 hours ago, DCLonghorn said:

I have a utility room that 2/3 underground/basement. I live is a very leaky neighborhood where the water seeps into basements from below when the water table rises with any significant rain. An answer is a french drain and sump pump, but I'm not ready for that yet. I am using Rust-Oleum Zinsser Watertite waterproofing paint (oil based) to try to reseal the room from the inside (never as good as doing so from the outside). I can see at least one layer of old waterproofing and one layer of what looks like black mastic all underneath a random paint job to hide the warts. No bigger pain in the ass than someone painting concrete that gets wet all the time...shopvac clogs with all those damn paint bubbles and chips. Anyway, I had planned to paint the walls and floors with two coats. After I'm already in to the project I read that this stuff is not recommended for floors with any foot traffic. And it's a matte finish that does not seem like it will hold up to much storage/foot traffic.

I do want to seal the floor and walls with the same stuff as the seepage is almost entirely where the floor (concrete) meets the walls (cinder block with some brick and wood in places). So I wants a consistent barrier across that seam. And a few of the leaks are about a foot into the floor area as it's seeping from the seam, and going underneath previous layers of sealant to where if has flaked off. So I need to extend this stuff at least a couple of feet on the floor in to have a complete barrier. I pressure washed to get up as much of the old stuff as possible and not inclined to go any further as it's a laundry room underground...so I kinda don't need it to be perfect or beautiful.

So, should I just paint the floor with the sealant and use it and not worry about the label?

Should I paint over the sealant walking areas with something else? Label says not to, and I don't want more paint that will just bubble up and be a pain in the ass.

I could use some non-slip crap like on concrete stairs?

Should I slap some self stick vinyl tiles on the walking areas? I read that those don't do well when they get wet?

I could throw ply wood down, but also not great when wet.

Any great Surly/Shag suggestions for this one? Whatever I do, I am sure I will need to redo in 5-10 or until I can get the whole basement a french drain and sump pump.

You’re trying to keep water from seeping into your basement.   The water comes from outside your basement.
 

Applying a sealer / waterproofing paint / coating to the inside of a wall is folly.  The hydrostatic pressure will push the applied coating / paint off the wall.  Any sort of product like that needs to be  applied on the soil side of the basement to keep water out and the coating “pressed” against the basement wall’s exterior facet. 
 

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Well that seems like a really obvious and perfect solution and a product I should have known existed! Thanks man.

I just did a room using these. I used the 2’ square Perfection tiles. Was a concrete patio that had been enclosed. Originally had some awful indoor/outdoor carpet glued to the concrete. Spent a week removing the carpet and getting all the glue up. PITA.
Painted the concrete but eventually it became dull and chipped. The new tiles look great and are easy to install.
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