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The Drums Pron Thread


ohchaucer

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2 hours ago, jimmyjazz said:

If she likes it, she'll play it.  Gotta budget for hardware and cymbals, though.

Others might have suggestions for lower cost of entry -- used, etc.

Well, I'm comparing the cost of drums vs the cost of my son's trumpet and my cello. So far, drums are cheaper. (Actually really just the cello; nothing compares to that in costs. A set of strings alone will run me $125-$150. For one set.)

But between replacement sticks (had no idea sticks were so expensive), skins, etc... I can see how maintenance costs get up there.

Oh, and I'm going to need to make SPACE for this thing. Which I don't have, at all. But I needed to do that anyway.

Edited by Rimbo
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One tip is to buy used cymbals.  Top end Zildjian A can be had for maybe 30% of new or so.  I used to buy and sell them for pocket change.  Maybe $100 for a crash, $125 for a ride, $150 for a set of hihats.  Beats the hell out of typical new pricing, and let's face it, they were designed to be beat on.  Just inspect the hole to confirm it's round (not "keyholed"), no cracks anywhere, you'll be fine.  Might need some polish.

Budget cymbals suck.

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16 hours ago, Bogeywon said:

To many forums! Anyway more from sun records. This kit was recorded on by U2 and they left it in the studio as a gift to the studio. Im in the fuck U2 camp for multiple reasons but mainly the pre uploaded album to my phone. Anyway here’s my dumbass sitting behind it F9169492-45BA-4325-A65D-C139269860F5.thumb.jpeg.fcd652c37353f625febe2070c87c91c5.jpeg


Nice!
 

Looks like a Ludwig kit from the 60s…..with the keystone badges lifted. They went to the blue/olive badges in the 70s

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Double stamping the used cymbal and use earplugs comments. If I’d been smarter when I was starting out I’d be able to hear better now and would have a little more cash in my wallet. But regardless, buy the best cymbals you can buy with your budget. For sabian - which is what I play - do not buy below their AAX line and for zildjian - don’t go below K line. And if you can go hit some used cymbals in a shop or even Guitar Center. Sometimes you’ll find a no-name or very old cymbal that looks like shit but sounds great. The one thing I disagree with JJ on, which is very rare, is don’t polish your cymbals… Be proud of that sweet, sweet patina. The time you’ll spend polishing she could be practicing! Final cymbals comment, for starters you might also look for a cymbal set - hats, crash and ride are all you need - and they often go on sale new.

I also recommend finding the set she wants and look for a gently used one but if you go that route I wouldn’t buy from an individual. A used gear shop or drum shop will do a little quality control and they’ll be much more expert at shipping which for a layman is a huge pain in the ass to do.

Also, watch some videos on drum tuning (especially snare). There is an art to it and it takes a lot of playing around to dial in your sound.

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17 minutes ago, ohchaucer said:

For sabian - which is what I play - do not buy below their AAX line and for zildjian - don’t go below K line.

I always thought of A as "below K" (as in the K was the jazz product and super high end).  Off base?  My daughter has a K splash and it is GLORIOUS.

I've mostly bought Zildjian A or Sabian AA, and while I feel like the Sabians are sometimes a little heavier and "clunkier", it's my understanding that they're essentially the same product.

 

Quote

The one thing I disagree with JJ on, which is very rare, is don’t polish your cymbals… Be proud of that sweet, sweet patina. The time you’ll spend polishing she could be practicing! 

That's a really good point.  I'm just thinking a kid might not appreciate the less polished look.  Anything to get them to play.

Edited by jimmyjazz
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That's a really good point.  I'm just thinking a kid might not appreciate the less polished look.  Anything to get them to play.

Actually. You’re right - I meant for zildjian don’t go below A. K is generally their best overall but the A line has more “specialized” variations.

And there are a lot of factors and variations, primarily along the lines of weight and brightness.

Zildjian and Sabian both have great cymbals (as do Paiste and Meinl). It’s just a matter of ear and preference.

I started playing sabian and just have (mostly) stuck with them. And I’ve had nearly a dozen and a half drumsets come and go, but my cymbal library just keeps growing and can serve many different applications and styles. Kinda the same can be said for snares but I generally have played a Ludwig black beauty in some iteration as my go-to.
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I definitely agree on the cymbals….get quality. Entry level on cymbals is just flat out poor. The only really inexpensive line I like is the Meinl custom classic. This is a great 14” crash for $109 to your door brand new. I’m sure they do a box set too

 

https://memphisdrumshop.com/meinl-14-classics-custom-brilliant-medium-crash-cymbal-cc14mc-b

 

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53 minutes ago, jimmyjazz said:

Looks like they have a set with 14" HH / 16" crash / 20" ride + 18" medium crash for $590.  The 18" medium crash sells for $190 on its own.  I'd probably buy the set and sell the 18" crash for $120 or so.

That would be one heck of a deal all the way around…..including the person buying the 18” for $120. A lot of cymbal for the $ 

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Yeah if you go this route and buy this pack and find yourself wanting to unload an 18” crash for $120 I’ll buy and pay for shipping.

I tend to play larger crashes exclusively but in a variety of weights. Below 18” I have more splash/stack/china/effect cymbals. When I “crash” I like to really crash with sustain. Also, smaller cymbals tend to be more forgiving at lower “quality” levels. Cheaper cymbals at larger sizes really expose their deficiencies.

On the flip side, a beginner drummer just needs a mid weight crash and a mid-light ride that can also have a bright crash sound and they’ll be good to go. I’m a big believer in drumset simplicity in the early days (and beyond, really). When you’re teaching your limbs to do things independently and trying to mentally account for which stick is where… too many options create hesitations mentally which, literally, translates to missed hits and dragging tempos.

My learning curve was pad only; the snare only; then snare, hats, and kick only (eg, each limb had one thing to play); then sweet ass four piece and added crash and ride. That saw me through pretty much the early learning. Then I was able to make it more interesting as I progressed. At one point I would set up at home with a 9 piece set and get crazy. But more often then not, I now only play a 4 piece in any “real” situation (gig, record, etc). Maybe 5 with two floor toms if it feels worth it.

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  • 1 month later...

Bit the poisonous snare apple lol. Picked up a Ludwig hammered chrome over aluminum Supra 14x5. It’s a factory b-stock but honestly, I can’t find a blemish. Plays and sounds great. The second is a serial # Gretsch USA custom polished bronze 14x6.5….the supra is very nice but this gretsch is flat out loco

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20 hours ago, ohchaucer said:

Damn - comin’ in hot for the holidays. I’m a Ludwig snare guy all the way (and love an olive badge Supra) but that Gretsch is a looker. Well done.

I bought the ludwig on Black Friday….and was really happy with it. So happy, I started looking for a bronze supraphonic in the 6.5” depth. Ludwig has discontinued bronze and it’s near impossible to find a used one. So, I initially planned on adding 2 Ludwigs of different depths and shell material.
 

I came across some demo vids of the gretsch USA custom bronze, and was really intrigued. I kept an eye out and sure as shit an amazing deal popped up 10 days ago for one and I pounced haha. Damn, it’s something special in person. But, I’m still going to keep a lookout for a bronze ludwig lm402….maybe one will pop up in 2023. 

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1 hour ago, ohchaucer said:

Yeah, Ludwig bronze is hard to come by. Especially hammered. They have an unfinished bronze that is pretty but I’ve never played or seen in person. They also tend to be 8”. At 6.5” or less it would sound like a cracked whip.

Yeah, I actually meant the hammered version. And I had the model number wrong….the one I’m after is the LB552K. The one with imperial lugs. They also make a LB552KT (tube lugs)…..not quite as good looking to me as the imperials. I’ll have to check out that unfinished bronze you mention….sounds interesting. 

 

 

 

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It might be on this thread, or on the "concert" thread, but I know I related a text I sent/received from Jim Eno of Spoon regarding their ACL taping a couple of months ago.  I complimented his snare sound, and his response was "Snare was sounding particularly good last night.  Its a Ludwig hand hammnerred bronze."

So, there you go.  +1 on the hand hammered bronze.

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On 12/25/2022 at 11:34 AM, ohchaucer said:

Nice! I don’t think I could actually pull the trigger on the raw finish….or the 14x8 size….but that is interesting….Ludwig has discontinued bronze….somehow Sweetwater has an exclusive for those shells. Must have been some leftovers at the Ludwig factory.

 

 

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On 11/5/2022 at 12:08 PM, jimmyjazz said:

Budget cymbals suck.

Bought a used drum kit many decades ago and the high hat cymbals sounded like two empty soup cans clacking together. 

I did not stick with the drums. I wonder how much a decent set of high hat cymbals would have affected that commitment. 

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1 hour ago, jimmyjazz said:

No way that's not a wrap.  Looking at the description on one retailer's site, it appears the inner walnut shell layer is laquered.

Let’s see the link you’re talking about. 
 

The only color I see on the Tama website even close is phantasm oyster lacquer, None of the wrap options look in the ballpark

https://www.tama.com/eu/products/drum_kits/starclassic_performer_wb_drumkit.html
 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I’m constantly checking on new arrivals….in case there’s something I can’t live without….this popped up on DrumCenterPortsmouth today 

Tama starclassic walnut/birch in lacquered charcoal oyster. DCP exclusive paint job. Wow! 

https://www.drumcenternh.com/tama-starclassic-walnut-birch-4pc-drum-set-w-22bd-lacquered-charcoal-oyster-dcp-exclusive-wbs42bnslco

 

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On 12/28/2022 at 1:37 PM, Napoleon said:

Bought a used drum kit many decades ago and the high hat cymbals sounded like two empty soup cans clacking together. 

I did not stick with the drums. I wonder how much a decent set of high hat cymbals would have affected that commitment. 

can only assume you would be the drummer for pearl jam had you bought the right cymbals.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/12/2023 at 2:07 PM, NAVY said:

Stewart Copland’s snare

 

It kind of does look like a tama copeland signature snare
 

And that’s always been the knock on electronic snares/kits, the pads looked weird and were too small, no rim shots or cross sticking, the rebound was way off, no brush mode, pad hot spotted too easily because of shitty single piezo. Not anymore. Roland has figured it out. 

52687711855_f79d9e20e7_k.jpg

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
19 hours ago, G650 said:

So drummers, if you were married to clear heads, what sort of psychological trick would convince you to use coated heads for a session

My renowns came factory with clear emperors. I bought a full set of coated ambassadors…..I did not like them lol. They came off real quick. But there are so many factors to consider….I’m not recording, I’m not gigging, I choose components strictly by what I hear sitting on the throne in my drum room. 
 

I ended up getting a 10/12/14/16 set of Emperor Vintage clears and they are amazing on these drums. Ironically, they’re not really clear at all like the modern Emperor. They’re opaque. The sound from the throne is awesome. 

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Ha. Yeah I am not like a die hard coated guy per se, just die hard coated for recording. I actually think my drummers kit sounds great with clear heads on it, super lively. It's just impossible to manage overtones in a recording situation without a lot of gaffer tape.

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20 minutes ago, G650 said:

Ha. Yeah I am not like a die hard coated guy per se, just die hard coated for recording. I actually think my drummers kit sounds great with clear heads on it, super lively. It's just impossible to manage overtones in a recording situation without a lot of gaffer tape.

Absolutely that’s the way to go. The drummer will lose those arguments….he’s like “but hey….I like and perform better with the clears!”. Shut up kid, bang on them coated bongos and like it…..or we’ll find someone that will. Lol

There were a few that would refuse…..I think Tommy Aldridge used clears on all toms. Period.

 

 

 

 

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On 3/6/2023 at 1:14 PM, G650 said:

I think I made some inroads last night, so we will see!

I would also flip the toms over and check the reso heads. If it has something like remo “ut” “uk” or “ux” made in china heads…..I’d ditch them even if they’re brand new. They are not the same collar material or manufacturing process as USA made heads. They “can” cause very strange overtone issues.
 

image.thumb.jpeg.e4aa6c247c23d644e6b743ded0efa50d.jpeg

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