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Xminus6

Certifiably Surly
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Posts posted by Xminus6

  1. 12 hours ago, BigHorn'13 said:

    All this. Telling everyone last night he just seems to run angry. I'm not sure who a decent comp would be because he's got a unique running style. He only gets low when necessary but when he accelerates, it always looks like he's pissed off chasing the dude who stole my grandmother's purse or something. 

    When he hits the hole, he comes with bad intentions and seems to always get positive yards. He kinda reminds me of Ced.

  2. 44 minutes ago, jeevsie said:

    Clarity - the amount of the discount is $23/year.  The rate is not $23/year.

    Yes. That's right. Sorry if it wasn't clear.

    40 minutes ago, Sbbruin said:

    When does Disney + go live?

    November. 11th I think. 

  3. 3 hours ago, GotThatFire said:

    I can't remember the last time 2 players from the same class committed to us on the same day.

     

    (watch it prolly happened this year)

    I seem to recall Jeffcoat and Hicks on the same day but my memory might be fuzzy.

  4. 7 hours ago, UDontKnow said:

    Sarcoidosis is an autoimmune condition that is common in the African American population. Bernie Mac succumbed to respiratory complications of sarcoidosis.

    It was also always proposed but never the correct answer on House.

  5. 1 minute ago, Pato del Muerto said:

    The no buyout thing might end up a blessing for aggy if it makes it easier for a team to hire him away before he takes them for the bulk of the contract, or all of it after his dismissal. 

    I’m torn on whether I’d rather him bolt of his own accord while they still love him, or have him crash the plane into the mountain, but both sound pretty entertaining. 

    The no buyout clause is one-sided. If they fire him they still have to pay him. If he chooses to leave of his own accord he doesn’t get paid though.

  6. 10 hours ago, jimmyjazz said:

    Well, as things tend to happen , I now need to be able to print slightly larger parts than the Prusa i3 can handle.  Any recs?  Current part size is 10.6" x 7.2" x 3.2".

    Creality has a large volume printer. The Ender3 is big I think.

  7. Good thing with Battery Tenders is that you can run leads off the battery to put the plug someplace more convenient without opening the hood. Might be a bit more challenging on a car as opposed to a motorcycle, but Battery Tenders are really popular with Motorcyclists because you can run the plug out under a fairing or panel avoiding the need to remove your seat all the time.

  8. 4 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

    Reverse 1 and 2 and use fiber tape

    I've heard that fiber tape is actually worse for joints because it will flex enough along the joint to cause cracks since sheets will tend to shear along the joint rather than pull apart (which is where fiber tape is strongest). I thought it was mostly used for patches. I also don't like the texture fiber tape imparts. Sure you're going to mud over it but for beginners it'll likely transmit that crosshatch pattern through the final surface or might be exposed after sanding. Paper tape is also really cheap compared to fiber if you're doing a lot of sheets. I use fiber for patches and a huge cheap roll of paper tape for joints, not that I've hung many complete sheets in a while. I literally have the same roll of paper tape from when I re-drywalled my whole bedroom in my last house 10 years ago.

  9. On 3/7/2019 at 8:13 PM, Upgrayedd said:

    Absolutely agree.  I’ve just never seen it done with a sponge.

    You can definitely use a damp sponge to smooth it. But he’s better off just learning to use the knives to smooth it out. It’s easier and faster. Using a damp sponge is good when you’re trying to feather a patch into something like a textured surface. That’s the only time I’ve used a sponge.

    Here are the general steps:

    1. Lay some mud in the joint before the tape.

    2. Run the tape over the joint with the mud in it. Then scrape over that tape to embed it in the mud and squeeze the extra out from under it. Scrape that extra back into your pan.

    3. Run a narrow strip of mud over that tape with a 4” knife.

    4. Let that dry and then use progressively wider taping knives to apply multiple coats over the original. The way you feather the edges is to apply slightly more pressure to the side of the knife further away from the joint. So you want to leave the middle slightly higher than the outside. The way it looks smooth is to use thin coats and wider coats so the difference in height is spread out over a wider distance. After each coat dries you can scrape it down with a knife.

    5. Sand.

    How many extra widths of knives you use is dependent on how smooth you want the finish to be. For a garage I’d just use a couple passes. Use a quickset mud for the first layer and to top the tape. Then use a smoother all-purpose mud for the successive coats. It’s easier to work, feather and sand.

    • Like 2
  10. 4 hours ago, jimmyjazz said:

    Is there anything out there that works out of the box and doesn't need mods or babysitting?  I wouldn't need much -- I pretty much just want to print small (1 liter or less) plastic prototype designs for the rare client I consult for.  Ultra-precision isn't a necessity.  For what it's worth, I own a seat of Solidworks 2017, so they'd have to play nice.

    Prusa is close. I think something like the Dremel is probably a little more robust. If you need extreme detail but don't mind a small build volume you could look into SLA printers, which use a different process but print things that are incredibly detailed. You have to handle the emulsion carefully and clean the printed parts and cure them with UV/sunlight, but they print things in much more detail than FDM printers.

    • Like 1
  11. 51 minutes ago, zork said:

    yep again.  watching the videos it is clear that is the case.  fortunately, in many cases with many of the brands and something I would favor before buying, there are a lot of open source community types that are making the videos showing pro, con, and how they fixed or optimized.  

    my kids are just now 9 and 11 so I'm still holding off but I can see there being some fun with one once the timing is right.  local public library has one that we have seen but not used yet.  they went to a STEM camp last summer that let them watch and learn about it, they designed a badge and had it printed off on one at the camp.  Still, gonna wait.

    Our public library has one too. I'm not sure how people would reasonable use that. To print anything of any size at all it takes hours. Can't imagine I'd go there and load up a file and just come back later in the day but I suppose it's nice to have in case. There are so many cheap ones available now that make it a pretty low-risk endeavor. The Monoprice Mini can be had usually for around $100. Slicers and CAD software are free. So you're only into it for the printer and filament.

  12. 7 hours ago, zork said:

    YEP.  the last video I linked had a robust review of the Creality low end machine.  it had some recommended cheap upgrades to fix a couple of known issues.  That series seems to have a ton of youtube DIY fixes and ideas to help you maximize it.  You can spend some serious time watching them since there are a lot over the years. 

    Still haven't bought one yet.

    The funny thing with 3D printers: After unboxing it, the first thing you’ll print is a cat figurine. Then next 10 things you’ll print are objects to fix what’s wrong with your 3D printer.

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