Jump to content

Spur08

Legacy Members
  • Posts

    793
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Spur08

  1. If ya'll haven't read the "Stupid Things My Wife Says/Does" thread in a little while, my wife wrecked her month old car pulling into the garage.  While the body damage isn't too bad, there is quite a bit of paint transfer on the back passenger door/QP.  What is your go-to method for removing paint transfer?  It appears that a common method is using WD-40 + magic eraser to remove the paint, followed up by soapy water to remove residual WD-40 and clay barring the area.  Then finish with a coat of wax.  Would any of you use this method on a car with sub-10K miles on it?  I do have a DA but I'm really having a hard time bringing myself to using paint correction on a car we've had for a month.  Any other suggestions?
    Finally got to fixing this. Washed and clayed the car, then touched up the deep scratches with paint, followed by a clear-cloat top (sanded in between). Hit the final spots with the DA, first with orange pad and chem guys V34, then with the white pad and V32. Finished with some meguires wax.

    e71a36616d2856ca4dc9d51c2729bda2.jpgd8a5c2a31dac2b3cbf30a6248eb5e4a8.jpg2fc61126bd482b272d612d9f4efc9cf3.jpg
    • Like 3
  2. Fair enough.  For the most part, I'm just feeling out for ideas,  as most of what I'm finding/learning about is either through Pinterest or youtube.  I don't know any woodworkers so theSurl is my troubleshooting domain.  Yea, of course this isn't an heirloom piece but it is something that I'm going to have to look at.  While it doesn't (and won't) be perfect, I want to learn and grow from the process.

  3. So I found a place off NW Highway that will plane it down for $20, which seems like the best bang for my buck.  They said I need to remove my pocket hole screws for them to plane so I'm wondering if I should replace them after? The glue-up is done but would the screws in place help with seasonal wood shifting in the future? 

    Also, I'm concerned that after planing, there will only be about a 0.5" or less of material left for the top.  I wanted to do a router trim, but now am wondering if it would be best to mount the top on top of a 1/2" ply and place 1x trim pieces around the edge to hide it.  Could I have more problems with keeping the piece square by doing that?  I'm sealing the knots on the base in the next few days with a special primer, then priming and painting it.  I want to stain the top, but need to seal the knots on it.  Any recommendations on method? 

  4. I'm afraid I'm pot committed. I've already done the glue up on it. I was able to sand down the joints to be even but there are still peaks/valleys and there is still an overall cupping shape to the unit. Did I waste $100 in lumber? And, no, I do not have a planet or jointer. Anyone know if there is a place near 75078 i could go to have a 2.5'x 6' board planed?651765df180e5b2c3967f6214f52a5d7.jpg

  5. Mid build on a farm table desk design for the wife. The frame looks grab but I'm having trouble with the top. I thought the lumber was square enough but l, after pocket hole and glue up, the whole piece has a cup and twist to it. Not sure what to do at this point d0902b1df05f0c6fb7f01227553c55fd.jpg

  6. On 4/22/2018 at 3:45 PM, Spur08 said:

    Beginner trying to get into some woodworking here.  I've decided to make my first "big" project a desk for the wife.  I have a design and plan in mind and am shopping out the supplies.  First question, what is "common board" that you see in the specialty woods section of big box stores?  Also, what wood would you consider in making a (this) desk?

    
    [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/eLgzPTd.jpg)

    https://imgur.com/eLgzPTd

     

    Edit -- I have no idea how to do imgur on this thing.

    So I’m mid-project on this piece.  I’ve gotten the 2 end pieces and the inner shelf piece made.  Questions I’ve encountered so far:

     

    -          Knots – I’m using “prime” grade stubs for all the 2x4 construction.  Do I need to seal these knots before I prime and paint?  If so, what should I seal them with?

    -          Table Top – I bought “common grade” 1x6 for the table top due to the cost and my experience.  I hear the recommendations on making the table top thicker to make it appear more aesthetic.  What option(s) do I have regarding making the top appear thicker?  Throw a sub-30” x 72” plywood base underneath it and then route a 2x2 trim piece on the end?  Would that work?

  7. On 6/2/2018 at 1:50 PM, NateHitch said:

    Glad I stumbled upon this thread, I'm enjoying it. I'd never built a piece of furniture in my life but decided that I hated our kitchen island and wanted to build a new one. Did a rough sketch and then went from there, took me a few months just working in my spare time. Made a lot of mistakes and realized just how much that trim, wood filler and paint can cover them up. And yeah, my garage is a wreck, that's my next project. Doing this from tapa for the first time so hope this works

     

    That looks awesome.  Did you buy the butcher block top or make it?  If you bought it, where from?

  8. 1 hour ago, Spaulding Smails said:

    Agree 100%.  If you have some decent trim carpentry skills, you can build out custom shelves and upgrade rods pretty easily.  I spent a weekend building out the closet in my old house about a year before we sold it.  Had my painter come spray it the following weekend.  I had about $400 in materials plus my time and I paid my painters $500 plus another $200 in paint materials.  So, $1100 plus my time.  The buyers that purchased the house commented on the master closet before anything else on the interior.  Worth every penny.

    Mind sharing what kind of upgrade(s) you did?  More shelving? Tie/cap racks, laundry hamper, etc?

  9. How many people actually do this maintenance annually?  I've been in this house 4 years and have never done it, mainly b/c I'm not too familiar with how my gas water heater works.  It has an On/Off switch and a circulation pump.  When I turn it to "Off", do I need to turn the gas valve off as well?  Any other things to watch for while doing the flush?  Do most people flush with cold water for a few minutes before closing off the valve and tightening everything up?

  10. On 5/14/2018 at 11:29 PM, Sam Lin said:

    A year is plenty enough time for fronts to warp again. The wrong driving habits can warp a rotor in 5 minutes.

    Some basics for rotor warping - make sure the hub face and wheel faces are wire brushed clean whenever you have a wheel off. Make sure lug nuts are torqued evenly in a star pattern. If you have to make a rapid stop, try to stop shorter than normal, and after every 15sec, let the car roll forward a foot. This gives the rotor a chance to cool more evenly. If you emergency panic stop and then hold the brake on for a long stop light, it's entirely possible to warp the rotor from that single stop. If you are unable to roll forward or backward a little, at least set the parking brake and get your feet off the brake pedal. Again, this lets the rotor cool more evenly.

    To detect a jammed caliper, use a temp gun or your finger (be damn careful with your finger, components can be really hot), go to a parking lot and do a few gentle stops, then go measure the temp of each rotor. If one is obviously different from the others, you have a caliper or line problem on that corner.

     

    Used a temp gun.  New rear brakes (rotors really) measure around 170*.  Front left 280*, front right 240 or 50*.

     

    Edit -- Also, what your go-to place for buying body trim clips?  Wife ran her car into the garage, pulling off the trim piece and breaking the clips in the process.  I called the dealer and the most I could get from him was the first 5 digits on the part # (90467).  I think it's part #2 on this diagram but can't find the clip only.

  11. If ya'll haven't read the "Stupid Things My Wife Says/Does" thread in a little while, my wife wrecked her month old car pulling into the garage.  While the body damage isn't too bad, there is quite a bit of paint transfer on the back passenger door/QP.  What is your go-to method for removing paint transfer?  It appears that a common method is using WD-40 + magic eraser to remove the paint, followed up by soapy water to remove residual WD-40 and clay barring the area.  Then finish with a coat of wax.  Would any of you use this method on a car with sub-10K miles on it?  I do have a DA but I'm really having a hard time bringing myself to using paint correction on a car we've had for a month.  Any other suggestions?

  12. I need help narrowing down an issue..

    2013 Tahoe 100K miles.  Whenever I brake, there is a slight shimmy/vibration of the car. I thought it was the rear brakes, but they were replaced last week and the issue is still occurring.  I did buy new tires about 20K miles (or less) ago and had the car realigned.  Any idea what my issue is? 

     

    Note -- I feel the vibration both of the whole vehicle and a little in the wheel.

×
×
  • Create New...