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Spur08

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Posts posted by Spur08

  1. On 6/2/2018 at 1:50 PM, NateHitch said:

    Glad I stumbled upon this thread, I'm enjoying it. I'd never built a piece of furniture in my life but decided that I hated our kitchen island and wanted to build a new one. Did a rough sketch and then went from there, took me a few months just working in my spare time. Made a lot of mistakes and realized just how much that trim, wood filler and paint can cover them up. And yeah, my garage is a wreck, that's my next project. Doing this from tapa for the first time so hope this works

     

    That looks awesome.  Did you buy the butcher block top or make it?  If you bought it, where from?

  2. 1 hour ago, Spaulding Smails said:

    Agree 100%.  If you have some decent trim carpentry skills, you can build out custom shelves and upgrade rods pretty easily.  I spent a weekend building out the closet in my old house about a year before we sold it.  Had my painter come spray it the following weekend.  I had about $400 in materials plus my time and I paid my painters $500 plus another $200 in paint materials.  So, $1100 plus my time.  The buyers that purchased the house commented on the master closet before anything else on the interior.  Worth every penny.

    Mind sharing what kind of upgrade(s) you did?  More shelving? Tie/cap racks, laundry hamper, etc?

  3. How many people actually do this maintenance annually?  I've been in this house 4 years and have never done it, mainly b/c I'm not too familiar with how my gas water heater works.  It has an On/Off switch and a circulation pump.  When I turn it to "Off", do I need to turn the gas valve off as well?  Any other things to watch for while doing the flush?  Do most people flush with cold water for a few minutes before closing off the valve and tightening everything up?

  4. On 5/14/2018 at 11:29 PM, Sam Lin said:

    A year is plenty enough time for fronts to warp again. The wrong driving habits can warp a rotor in 5 minutes.

    Some basics for rotor warping - make sure the hub face and wheel faces are wire brushed clean whenever you have a wheel off. Make sure lug nuts are torqued evenly in a star pattern. If you have to make a rapid stop, try to stop shorter than normal, and after every 15sec, let the car roll forward a foot. This gives the rotor a chance to cool more evenly. If you emergency panic stop and then hold the brake on for a long stop light, it's entirely possible to warp the rotor from that single stop. If you are unable to roll forward or backward a little, at least set the parking brake and get your feet off the brake pedal. Again, this lets the rotor cool more evenly.

    To detect a jammed caliper, use a temp gun or your finger (be damn careful with your finger, components can be really hot), go to a parking lot and do a few gentle stops, then go measure the temp of each rotor. If one is obviously different from the others, you have a caliper or line problem on that corner.

     

    Used a temp gun.  New rear brakes (rotors really) measure around 170*.  Front left 280*, front right 240 or 50*.

     

    Edit -- Also, what your go-to place for buying body trim clips?  Wife ran her car into the garage, pulling off the trim piece and breaking the clips in the process.  I called the dealer and the most I could get from him was the first 5 digits on the part # (90467).  I think it's part #2 on this diagram but can't find the clip only.

  5. If ya'll haven't read the "Stupid Things My Wife Says/Does" thread in a little while, my wife wrecked her month old car pulling into the garage.  While the body damage isn't too bad, there is quite a bit of paint transfer on the back passenger door/QP.  What is your go-to method for removing paint transfer?  It appears that a common method is using WD-40 + magic eraser to remove the paint, followed up by soapy water to remove residual WD-40 and clay barring the area.  Then finish with a coat of wax.  Would any of you use this method on a car with sub-10K miles on it?  I do have a DA but I'm really having a hard time bringing myself to using paint correction on a car we've had for a month.  Any other suggestions?

  6. I need help narrowing down an issue..

    2013 Tahoe 100K miles.  Whenever I brake, there is a slight shimmy/vibration of the car. I thought it was the rear brakes, but they were replaced last week and the issue is still occurring.  I did buy new tires about 20K miles (or less) ago and had the car realigned.  Any idea what my issue is? 

     

    Note -- I feel the vibration both of the whole vehicle and a little in the wheel.

  7. On 5/6/2018 at 12:53 PM, Jkwellborn said:

    Spur, just replace the shocks with a factory type replacement. You changed the fuel filter on it?

    I have not.  I can't find the maintenance schedule on the fuel filter.

    On 5/6/2018 at 8:56 PM, Texas007 said:

    That Tahoe probably has struts up front (aka more expensive than shocks). 50 - 60 k is typical mileage range for a shock replacement, so you're probably due.

    If you want to be thorough a flush of your brake and coolant systems are also good 100k maintenence items

    The mobile mechanic I've used told me that it does have struts up front.  He pushed up/down on the rear end and said that he doesn't think it needs a change but I'm not sure.  I do trust him as he is quite cheap ($60 for brake job w/ rotors, I buy parts) and knowledgeable but I just think I have a different standard than him.

  8. My FIL works at BMC.  I actually did what you said but their Dallas contractor never called me back, so I ended up finding my own guy who came out, measured for the windows, and then would installed them.  BMC's window division is in Houston (where in-laws live), so I went down to pick them up and bring them back.  Guy had a 2 man crew come out and install the windows.  Problem was (unbeknowst to me at the time) they were 2ndary contractors, they installed a few windows, told me one would fit b/c it was too big, and wedged a few into place that I later found out bowed the frame so the window isn't completely sealed.  I tried to get the original guy to reimburse me for the windows that never fit, never could. /CSB

     

    I guess the lesson is make sure you find a guy who you can trust for measurement and install?  Or pay a bit more to get the job done right.  Anyways, if you want my BMC hookup, PM me.

  9. Chevy Tahoe 2013 100K miles

    Spark plugs recently replaced. and replacing rear drum brakes today with failing(ed) O2 sensors in the future.  I'm planning on doing other preventative and necessary maintenance on it in the near future.  Is there anything I should/need to consider?  Also, how long to shocks typically last?  The ride currently is a little creaky but I'm not bouncing all over the place (yet).  Any particular brand you'd recommend for shocks?  (FYI, I don't race [obviously] or tow anything with this vehicle)

  10. Wife called this evening and told me the check engine light came on the 2013 Tahoe.  Went to Autozone and the code was "P015D -- O2 Sensor Delayed Response -- Lean to Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1"

    The AutoZone guy suggested I get some Seafoam and run it through a tank of gas and then do 2 rounds of  RXP Gas Kicker, each through a tank of gas.  He said to replace the O2 sensor if the light doesn't go off after that.  How good of a chance is there for this to work?  I'm inclined to believe him since they don't even sell any of the RXP (he told me to go to OReilly's).  How big of a job is it to replace the O2 sensor?  FYI -- Changing brakes was a big job for me.

     

    Edit -- After looking at a few videos, it doesn't look too bad.  Any particulars to consider?  When people change out the O2 sensor, do they just change the single one or all 4?

  11. On 4/14/2018 at 9:47 PM, Spur08 said:

    If you're buying a certified pre-owned vehicle, would you pay to have a separate mechanic inspect it?  

    I still have the above question.  Also, is it worth buying CPO vs. a non-CPO vehicle?  I.e. do you put any stock in the certified pre-owned process?

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