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Posts posted by TXSooner518
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the shop won't do a cash deal, won't repair it, say no one that networks with GEICO can repair it.
It is literally insane that an insurance company that I don't contract with can decide to ruin a car by totalling it with literally zero guidelines or guardrails. Could be $100 in damage and they can just say "totalled". Just absolute garbage.
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Theoretically they already should have since they will right now be paying me more to take the car than they would pay the body shop to fix the fucking thing.
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The problem is that is losing the value of the brand new engine with warranty, new cat converter, new fuel injection system. Minus this labyrinthine bullshit about "no one will fix your car now because reasons" $9300 plus the car >>> $12,200 total and no car.
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X-posting, sorry and thanks:
Posting here for hope for some resolution before I choose violence. Dumbfuck scum crashes into my daughter's car in June. He's insured by GEICO. We file a claim, and everything starts great. Drop the car off, body shop says no worry of total etc.
Get a call a few days later, after already making arrangements based around having the rent car for the 2 weeks they said it would take, GEICO says it's totaled. Repair bill is $9100, they say car is worth $9000. I point out that we have a brand new engine in it with a 3y, 100k mile warranty, brand new cat converter, brand new fuel injection system. They bump up to $12,200 value, which would be a $9300 payout if I take the car. They won't budge off the total decision though. Why would they rather pay me $9300 than the body shop $9100 (and probably less than that under their contract let's be honest)? No clue, other than because it fucks me.
Texas law and GEICO agree that no salvage title is needed, b/c the repairs aren't "100% or more of the vehicles market value". However, body shop says they can't work on the car once it's a total loss, even without a salvage title, and what's more, neither can anyone who works with GEICO ever again.
This is the biggest bunch of bullshit scam shit I have ever heard. It would be bad enough if this was under my own policy that I agreed to in the fine print. But this is this fuckstain's policy, if they don't like it, don't insure people too motherfucking stupid to not hit parked cars. Anyone have any tips or suggestions or a connection at GEICO who you can talk into not losing money just to fuck me? Or is it just self-help retribution time?
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Posting here for hope for some resolution before I choose violence. Dumbfuck scum crashes into my daughter's car in June. He's insured by GEICO. We file a claim, and everything starts great. Drop the car off, body shop says no worry of total etc.
Get a call a few days later, after already making arrangements based around having the rent car for the 2 weeks they said it would take, GEICO says it's totaled. Repair bill is $9100, they say car is worth $9000. I point out that we have a brand new engine in it with a 3y, 100k mile warranty, brand new cat converter, brand new fuel injection system. They bump up to $12,200 value, which would be a $9300 payout if I take the car. They won't budge off the total decision though. Why would they rather pay me $9300 than the body shop $9100 (and probably less than that under their contract let's be honest)? No clue, other than because it fucks me.
Texas law and GEICO agree that no salvage title is needed, b/c the repairs aren't "100% or more of the vehicles market value". However, body shop says they can't work on the car once it's a total loss, even without a salvage title, and what's more, neither can anyone who works with GEICO ever again.
This is the biggest bunch of bullshit scam shit I have ever heard. It would be bad enough if this was under my own policy that I agreed to in the fine print. But this is this fuckstain's policy, if they don't like it, don't insure people too motherfucking stupid to not hit parked cars. Anyone have any tips or suggestions or a connection at GEICO who you can talk into not losing money just to fuck me? Or is it just self-help retribution time?
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curious if anyone else used to play with a persimmon driver ?
I had a persimmon 3w, 5w, and Cobra Baffler 7w but never a persimmon driver.-
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Delta pulled a new one on me yesterday - randomly moved my flight 10 minutes earlier with less than an hour notice before flight. Was very unappreciated. 10 min may not seem like much but for a pre-8am flight with two teenagers, sucked. Had never seen that before. Always assumed it was kind of the same rule as a bus - it can be late but can’t be early.
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16 hours ago, Hornbeliever said:I know what it means obviously but for the other readers, can you elaborate on what SG means in this context?
For the other readers, “SG” means strokes gained and it describes where a player is gaining or losing strokes against a given benchmark.
There are apps where you can compare your performance to various standards, tour pro/scratch/5 cap/10 cap etc. I have generally used 15 cap as that was my target but now that I’m passed that, may move to 10.
The basic idea is that, say as a 15 cap standing on the tee of a 370 yard hole that my expected score is 5.1. I hit a drive 230 down the middle. Now that I’m in the fairway 140 out, my expected score is 4.6. I “gained” 0.5 strokes with that drive.
The book “Every Shot Counts” by Mark Broadie describes it in full detail. But you don’t need to specifically grasp the science, the apps will show you the data. The two I use are Arccos and Shot Pattern. No need for two but I’m a data nerd and each does something I like that the other doesn’t so. Here are some screenshots of the type of thing you can get, some pics from Arccos of my last 20 rounds, and a summary pic from Shot Pattern of a recent round and a sample pic on SP where it lists the SG for each shot (Arccos doesn’t do single shot).
)
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I mean if you are going to go with the passive/trappy route, best to flop top set with a rainbow board and no straight possibilities.
Against the only possible overpair.-
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Would highly recommend tracking with actual SG data. Number of putts per round is nearly entirely useless, and sometimes there are unexpected nuggets in the data.
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the round after my career-low 77, I thought I had established a new standard for myself but went out and shot a smooooooooooooth 108
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Agree! The UNM course is fun and inexpensive also.
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That's probably the only thing she does "straight".
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2 hours ago, Bozo_Casanova said:
As in, not partially or completely missing the ball with the club or hitting the turf 3 inches behind the ball. Literally just putting the club head on the ball.
OK, this is fair and fine.
2 hours ago, WithoutAClue said:I would suggest leaving the driver at home and using a 3 wood for tee shots. The accuracy will more than make up for any distance you lose.
Once your swing is in better shape then you can work on hitting the driver on the practice range and eventually on course.
With current drivers, most players actually aren't that much more accurate (if any) with the 3 wood. Large forgiving head can be really helpful, esp if it's fit with the right shaft etc.
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2 hours ago, Bozo_Casanova said:
Thank you. any thoughts on the DTC brands here? Takomo, Stix, Sub70, etc.
I got Sub70 wedges and really love them. Bought during one of their sales for about $80 apiece, find them as good for me as a $170 Vokey.
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Also if someone you’re paired with starts to give unwanted advice, just say something like “thanks! I’m working with a coach and he said I can’t take swing tips or watch golf YouTube because it muddles what we are working on”
Also rec Dan Grieve short game videos on YouTube. -
Plan seems generally sound. One thing is that the Penick course does have three par 4 holes, it isn’t a pure par 3. A couple of them have decent forced carries also.
Define “good contact 80% of the time” because there are long-term golfers who don’t have that haha.
I’d say a rangefinder is pretty superfluous at this point. I just got a $50 one for certain times but there are free GPS apps that will def be just fine until you are really really dialed. I only use my rangefinder when my GPS isn’t working or there are huge greens with no map or cart GPS or other code to say if flag is front/middle/back, or to shoot targets when I’m at a range.
You should basically always be going for the center of the green or the fattest part away from trouble (so if water is left, aiming right edge etc).
Some people may be irritated by a beginner but those people are largely assholes. You clearly are going to be more prepared than some beginners who are whiffing every third swing or whatever. I’d say be prepared to pick your ball up if you’re having a disaster hole and you’re paired up esp if there is room in front of you. Taking 2 minutes to line up a putt for 12 will do it haha.
I’m def down to go play.
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Great TR Francisco. Can also vouch for the Luger burger lunch.
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With purchase of fries and a drink I'm sure
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having forgotten the topography of Mo Willie, I elected to walk and carry the bag yesterday for the 2:30 tee time. I remain in desperate need of an IV
I love walking Mo Willie but I am a proud member of the Push Cart Mafia-
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I loved Grandy’s as a kid. Rolls slapped. Got less exciting when I saw the granny rolling around and picking rolls off tables where people left and putting them back in the basket. Hey maybe they fell on the floor or got sneezed on but maybe they didn’t.
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Lions probably has become the hardest Austin Muni to walk up, especially on Fridays, Saturadays and Sundays. Best courses to try to walk on are Kizer and Clay since you can ask for first available between the 2 courses.
HC is a great course to hit irons and practice wedges into greens. It's easy to walk on but pace of play can be REALLY slow since that's the course where beginners go to play golf. Most have not learned about pace of play.
Also that corner where people are hitting into the 6th green, and coming back down from 7 tee is a natural clog. -
Friend of mine who was a former LPGA player and college All-American just did a golf marathon for a fundraiser. Played 268 holes. 84 birdies, 2 eagles. 38,500 steps despite cart. 14.5 straight hours, averaged right at an hour a round.
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Insurance/Auto Valuation/Total Decision/Repair Issue
in Business and Markets
Posted
that's the thing, I can get the car back! Plus them paying more to me than they would have to pay the shop! It makes no sense for them either and ruins the value of my car.