If you join D23.com , the Disney club online you can pre-purchase a 3-year subscription to Disney+ at a discount of $23/year. You can join the free “General” tier of D23 and you can redeem the offer after that.Subscribing to Disney+ was a forgone conclusion in our household so this is a chance to save a few bucks on it.
http://d23.com/disney-plus-exclusive-offer/
I’m not sure how it is in Android world but you can often plug a keyboard into the phone and input your passcode that way. I actually used a Lightning to Bluetooth adapter to use a BT keyboard to enter my wife’s passcode and recover her photos.
Good thing with Battery Tenders is that you can run leads off the battery to put the plug someplace more convenient without opening the hood. Might be a bit more challenging on a car as opposed to a motorcycle, but Battery Tenders are really popular with Motorcyclists because you can run the plug out under a fairing or panel avoiding the need to remove your seat all the time.
I've heard that fiber tape is actually worse for joints because it will flex enough along the joint to cause cracks since sheets will tend to shear along the joint rather than pull apart (which is where fiber tape is strongest). I thought it was mostly used for patches. I also don't like the texture fiber tape imparts. Sure you're going to mud over it but for beginners it'll likely transmit that crosshatch pattern through the final surface or might be exposed after sanding. Paper tape is also really cheap compared to fiber if you're doing a lot of sheets. I use fiber for patches and a huge cheap roll of paper tape for joints, not that I've hung many complete sheets in a while. I literally have the same roll of paper tape from when I re-drywalled my whole bedroom in my last house 10 years ago.
You can definitely use a damp sponge to smooth it. But he’s better off just learning to use the knives to smooth it out. It’s easier and faster. Using a damp sponge is good when you’re trying to feather a patch into something like a textured surface. That’s the only time I’ve used a sponge.
Here are the general steps:
1. Lay some mud in the joint before the tape.
2. Run the tape over the joint with the mud in it. Then scrape over that tape to embed it in the mud and squeeze the extra out from under it. Scrape that extra back into your pan.
3. Run a narrow strip of mud over that tape with a 4” knife.
4. Let that dry and then use progressively wider taping knives to apply multiple coats over the original. The way you feather the edges is to apply slightly more pressure to the side of the knife further away from the joint. So you want to leave the middle slightly higher than the outside. The way it looks smooth is to use thin coats and wider coats so the difference in height is spread out over a wider distance. After each coat dries you can scrape it down with a knife.
5. Sand.
How many extra widths of knives you use is dependent on how smooth you want the finish to be. For a garage I’d just use a couple passes. Use a quickset mud for the first layer and to top the tape. Then use a smoother all-purpose mud for the successive coats. It’s easier to work, feather and sand.
Oh, an FDM (extruded melted plastic) printer would be fine then. The most well-known reliable one out there now is the Prusa i3 Mk III. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/