Wait... what?
& Apologies for not responding to your tag, @Baboontyme - my notifications that come through email get swamped by a metric shit-tonne of spammish crap (it happens when you've been using the same account as a primary for 20+ years).
& @deadshank has filled in the blanks quite well. Exceptionally, actually. He does a lot more business in those differing types of roofing & especially some custom stuff.
Back to the OP question. @Baboontyme, that $$ you were quoted - is it from a GC or from a roof specific contractor? If from a contractor, I have an established network of people all across America (@deadshank knows what I'm talking about) & I can tie you in if that's a possibility. Lemme know.
*When it comes to tile & related products (Spanish / S / Slate, etc) the quick conversation is "ALL of them leak. It's the underlayment, penetrations, hip & ridge, roof to wall joints & prep work that keeps the water out." The topmmost components (the parts you see) that give you the preferred appearance & keep the sun (UV rays) from destroying everything. Think of how a generic blue tarp holds up in the sun & how its gonna look in 6 months vs. a common brick that sits in your yard.
To the question about "why do we have 'rapidly deteriorating products for roofing', that's akin to the "Yeah, there is an actual cure for cancer - it's "THEY" that don't want you to know how to defeat it & THEY want you to keep paying for cancer treatments, Rx's, etc." I mean - seriously - everything needs replacing or maintenance. Even fiber cement siding products need the paint worked on & a generic 3 Tab ("20 year shingle") can easily get to 25 years / a generic Dimensional / Architectural (30 year shingle) can get to 35 years before it's time to remove (the shingles that get beyond that & are primarily suffering from UV rays as the aging problem begin to come up in smaller / easily torn parts & it takes 2x to 3x the amount of labor & effort to remove them. & Of course there can be damage to the roof deck if there are other age related leaks.
One variety of roof panel in the "Hidden Fastener" systems that @deadshank didn't mention is a Snap Lock panel. If considering a metal panel for my own uses / needs, I would go with as bright a white color as possible & use a Snap Lock in the new(er) vertical seam. You can easily disassemble panels if needed & do repairs. Think the possibility of a tree branch falling or the neighbor's fence / trampoline / lawn furniture bouncing off the roof - in most situations, a Snap Lock can easily be undone with a rubber mallet & screwdriver. Repairs to a mechanically joined Standing Seam panel system are difficult because once you
[ originally fold / seam - unfold to try repairs - try to seam / fold the panels back together ]... that's 3 bends & the metal is probably going to end up breaking on one of the folds. Before long, the repair panel is going to break. Then you have to put in a new panel & that next joint over is gonna break as well before it's over, you removed & replaced an entire section. We're going through that on a repair for a $ 750,000+ dollar custom house out here in Drip. Zero trees but there is a leak @ a pitch change on the back porch & it's got a vaulted ceiling with zero attic (look up, see very pretty 1x6' & there's not much above that other than 2x8's, insulation, *maybe?* [Decking? Battens?] & then the metal panels. Builders @ best give a 1 year warranty - your new refrigerator for the new house is given a longer warranty.
Pic 1 is the repair we are discussing with the property owner (the dark parts are ponding water that has dust, pollen & other airborne bits settling in it (not uncommon (but is generally over where the water penetration is showing through the vaulted 1x6's & inside the house).
Pic 2 is the common Snap Lock profile & view for the newer systems. Keep in mind that there are very few actual roof profiles & Company A wants you to think they have some trademarked & exclusive panel while Company B who also has the same profile wants you to know THEY have the actual better panel with ThEiR trademarked name.
Don't go with an exposed fastener roof if you can avoid it - there is no reason to take a perfectly good piece of metal & start poking thousands of tiny liabilities all over it. Concealed Fastener (Snap Lock) is the way to go.
*Addendum: Insurance will typically classify a proper metal system as having a 50 year life span. This is needed info regarding depreciation due to a loss. Do NOT, EVER, in ANY CIRCUMSTANCE sign a "Cosmetic Waiver" for your metal roof system (whether stone coated steel or whatever). *YES* there ARE discounts available. However you can get premature rusting due to the clearcoat being cracked & insurance will argue (not want to pay) due to what they say is "cosmetic" damage & now you have a protracted fight on your hands. Any potential property buyer would see the dents & that's a hassle.