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Butch Had Not

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Good points. Extra Thin won't do anything for resin or metal. But tube glue seriously sucks.

I suppose there's a chance you could always come back and say, "Braff, you're opinions on poly cement are bad and you should feel bad," but I'm pretty confident you will love it.

You could always order from MegaHobby.

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Cockpit, engine, and landing parts have been painted and lacquered. Will apply a weathering wash tomorrow, a decal to the instrument panel, and then continue assembling.

Cockpit painting is usually one of my favorite steps, but the detail on this old kit is poor and--like a Hollywood biopic--only loosely based in reality. Many of features are flat-out inaccurate or poorly represented, so determining what color to paint them became a challenge. Online resources weren't much help, either, since no two examples were alike. In the end, I just kind of winged it.

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However, I did have fun dry brushing the cylinder heads and picking out the crankcase bolts. Instructions specified black for the crankcase, but the primer grey looked right, so I left it as is. Backside of the props were painted black.

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And here's my version of aotake--two parts metallic green mixed with one part transparent blue. Such a neat color and way more interesting than the omnipresent zinc chromate.

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Should have some finished pics of the "office" by tomorrow evening, as well as some build shots of the fuselage, wings, and empennage glued up.

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Holy shit, that's a lot of polystyrene!

Are you going to detail and weather everything after primer and basecoating? That's gonna be a full-time job, sir.

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3 minutes ago, Braff Zacklin said:

Holy shit, that's a lot of polystyrene!

Are you going to detail and weather everything after primer and basecoating? That's gonna be a full-time job, sir.

I have a cheap and easy method of weathering that preserves the dark shadows and lightest highlights.

1. Prime black.

2. Using flat brush, build up chalky white highlights. I brush across the cracks, so recessed areas stay black. On things like tanks, this gives a streaky look, like grime has washed down the side unevenly.

3. When that is all bone dry, stain with thinned paint. The thin paint barely tints the highest areas, giving them a sun-bleached look. Pools deeper down, where there is less (or not any) white.

Then I go back in and pick out insignia, little details & such.

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I like to poke through the Internet Archive every now and then, and came across this book which was recently added - it's from a B-26/A-26 group during the Korean War.

https://archive.org/details/devilsowngrim1952/mode/2up

Kind of a cool/informal look at a combat squadron (13th), and lots of photos if any of you ever do an A-26 model.

Shitload of MIAs.

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Thanks for sharing that, @atomheartbevo. The Invader has been a favorite since I was a boy. It was a beast of a plane: good performance, good armament and bombload, and with a long service life.

All the twin-engined Douglas medium bombers (e.g., including the DB-7/Boston/A-20 Havoc) were pretty awesome.\

I saved the book as PDF because one of these days, I just might build up an Invader. Unfortunately, there are only three current kits in 1:48 as far as I'm aware--two by ICM and the third from Revell of Germany, which I think is just a reboxing of the old Monogram kit. The Revell/Monogram kit has issues, but it costs half as much as the ICM offerings.

I'd probably drop $70 on the ICM if it were the glass-nosed -C model. Don't think there's ever been a better-looking twin-engined bomber, although Lockheed's PV-1 Ventura might object.

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Painting 1/3 of the mob. This is the stage where I have to take it on faith because I hate how it looks until the last step of black, which is yet to be done.

I stain-paint clothes and vehicles, and do a traditional full-strength shading on helmets where I build it up with lighter coats (not done yet in this photo.)

104912204_10101660799017669_297394229461

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we need to get RD a macro lens.

you boys are inspiring.  that A/B-26 is badass.  I remember studying it after reading Bay of Pigs, some years back.  so I'd probably do the Fake Cuban air force version, or a Farmgate version if I can find a decal set for it.  I like the goofy one-offs.  

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17 hours ago, Braff Zacklin said:

Thanks for sharing that, @atomheartbevo. The Invader has been a favorite since I was a boy. It was a beast of a plane: good performance, good armament and bombload, and with a long service life.

All the twin-engined Douglas medium bombers (e.g., including the DB-7/Boston/A-20 Havoc) were pretty awesome.\

I saved the book as PDF because one of these days, I just might build up an Invader. Unfortunately, there are only three current kits in 1:48 as far as I'm aware--two by ICM and the third from Revell of Germany, which I think is just a reboxing of the old Monogram kit. The Revell/Monogram kit has issues, but it costs half as much as the ICM offerings.

I'd probably drop $70 on the ICM if it were the glass-nosed -C model. Don't think there's ever been a better-looking twin-engined bomber, although Lockheed's PV-1 Ventura might object.

Yeah, I used to do just the models, without much research.  Now,  I want a bit of history to them.

Love the intro from 1952:

THIS BOOK IS PUBLISHED BY AND FOR THE PERSONNEL 
OF THE 13TH BOMB SQUADRON. EDITORIAL VIEWS EXPRES¬ 
SED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE 
OF THE DEPARTMENT OF THE AIR FORCE. CONTENTS OF 
THIS BOOK MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN 
PERMISSION OF THE C.O. OF THE 13th BOMB SQUADRON. 

ALSO 

PEOPLE WHO READ THIS BOOK MUST BE CRAZY. 

Saw the book was dedicated to a Lt. Col. Walter S. King, and noticed that hew as listed as MIA in the book.  A few minutes on the web, and turns out he was a Texan.  Nice memorial to him in Scranton, Tx.

His widow forwarded some information on about 10 years ago, about DOD efforts and info - while DOD continues to look for the MIAs, he had a 1,000-pound bomb explode as it left his A-26.  No chance in hell he survived that, and doubt there would be remains.

http://3rdstories.yolasite.com/resources/King/WSK.pdf

And he was in the running for having Abilene's Air Force Base named for him.

http://3rdstories.yolasite.com/walter-s-king.php

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, wd40 said:

we need to get RD a macro lens.

you boys are inspiring.  that A/B-26 is badass.  I remember studying it after reading Bay of Pigs, some years back.  so I'd probably do the Fake Cuban air force version, or a Farmgate version if I can find a decal set for it.  I like the goofy one-offs.  

One of our family friends in the Air Force (Alabama Air Nat'l Guard?) was involved with communications during the Bay of Pigs, had to listen to those guys getting shot down.

Edited by RDCanecutter

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Painstaking work friends.

As I last built a model as a 12 or 13 year-old, my mind boggles, although I'm sure my patience has increased somewhat, if not my skill.

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Just now, TwiceHorn said:

Painstaking work friends.

As I last built a model as a 12 or 13 year-old, my mind boggles, although I'm sure my patience has increased somewhat, if not my skill.

Dude. Whenever you want to jump back in, say the word, and I'll just give you something to play with.

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19 minutes ago, RDCanecutter said:

Whenever you want to jump back in, say the word, and I'll just give you something to play with.

giphy.gif

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9 hours ago, wd40 said:

that A/B-26 is badass.

I always favor the solid-nosed version of an aircraft, but the A-26C is the exception. Just something happens to the profile that makes it look awesome in my eyes (even though the -B model has all those .50 cals).

To wit:

Spoiler

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I mentioned the Lockheed Ventura up thread. It's a very different aircraft but equally appealing to the eye, especially when finished in the three-tone, mid-war Navy livery. I need to get my hands on that relatively new (2011) Revell kit.

Spoiler

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Putting a little full-strength black here and there.

That's a 1/144 Minicraft B-25 I'd put together so long ago that it had a wine spill on it. The P-40 is a 1/100 printed piece that seriously needs some bondo, very rough finish, but it'll make a fine game piece.

79375207_10101667874014319_3550219936198

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Super boring update:

Finally had time to work on the Reisen this week. Primed the plane on Tuesday. Used the "black base" technique and followed that with white mottling last night. They combine to give depth, an illusion of the random effects of time and weather.

I'll show the first two steps here and hide the rest in a spoiler tag.

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Lots of mistakes, but not too worry cuz they were soon covered up. Probably should've used my Iwata for the fine close-up work. Still, the $30 "Master" did well enough.

Spoiler

After first layer of base:

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After second:

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Just about there, but needed some touch up to balance out some areas that were under-coated. So third layer (no flash this time for more accurate color):

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Unfortunate aspect of this old kit: many (most?) of the panel lines are raised, which means they tend to disappear under base coats and won't pop with a wash. So I lightly sanded on them with 2000 grit and then sealed everything with a gloss coat. 

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The gloss coat unfortunately left an orange peel finish. Maybe one of these days, I'll learn to lay them down smoothly.

Tomorrow, I'll affix decals and a weather wash.

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Did a thin black stain of all the vehicles to simulate gloom, sleep deprivation, and existential dread.

Next up are insignias. The Free French had their own deal, lots of small emblems that I will approximate by hand. Not sure how often they used the Allied Star. Be kinda nice if they didn't, less work for me.

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Thanks man. I can't even see straight. Not totally happy with the sheen of the spray sealer -- even though France is wet, and things really do have a satin finish-- but in military modelling there is the cult of the matte finish.

I get best results with Tree House Studio matte coating, available either at Covid Lobby, or via mule train because it has to go surface mail. I'm almost out, and using lesser brands to do the work, with a dusting of Tree House on top. Ain't happy. But probably obsessing.

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11 minutes ago, Braff Zacklin said:

Hell, yeah. Well done, sir.

That's a lot of once-dropped rifles.

fixed

Looks great!  there's one sherman there in the middle of the last pic that I swear has a Dracula face in the camo pattern, with a big yellow dot on his forehead.

but I'm probably just a little punchy from my ride, this afternoon.  

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You have seen the Face of Dracula, which means he has chosen you.

The yellow dots are weight insignia, should have little black numbers on them. Maybe I'll put black dots.

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Beautiful work. Really outstanding.

Of course the rivet counters would let you know that the red dot in the US roundel was nixed in 1942. But that looks like an homage to Belushi in “1941” so it gets a pass.

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3 hours ago, Chad Fuck said:

Beautiful work. Really outstanding.

Of course the rivet counters would let you know that the red dot in the US roundel was nixed in 1942. But that looks like an homage to Belushi in “1941” so it gets a pass.

The P-40 is meant to be early war, for fighting toy Japanese in the Phillippines with other toys. It and the B-25 got mixed in with the Free French because when daddy pops open a bucket of OD green, everybody gets painted OD green.

But the red dot should never have been dropped. We should restore it now.

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Just got a shipment of crafty stuff from Michael's. Being hard-headed I was going to ignore all advice and stick with my old crappy tube glue, but Michael's was out of that, so I went with the Testors liquid stuff.

It ain't bad. I have to pace it differently, because it dries slowly, but it doesn't leave little spider web strands like tube glue, or chew up your fingertips like super-glue.

The half-tracks and dudes with weapons were all assembled with Gorilla super-glue (pretty good stuff, for the stoic.) The Venus de Milo guys were done with the brush-on liquid stuff. Much more relaxing work, with two windows wide open next to me.

116885780_10101698924488919_798273973736

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2 minutes ago, RDCanecutter said:

Just got a shipment of crafty stuff from Michael's. Being hard-headed I was going to ignore all advice and stick with my old crappy tube glue, but Michael's was out of that, so I went with the Testors liquid stuff.

It ain't bad. I have to pace it differently, because it dries slowly, but it doesn't leave little spider web strands like tube glue, or chew up your fingertips like super-glue.

The half-tracks and dudes with weapons were all assembled with Gorilla  guerrilla super-glue (pretty good stuff, for the stoic.) The Venus de Milo guys were done with the brush-on liquid stuff. Much more relaxing work, with two windows wide open next to me.

116885780_10101698924488919_798273973736

fify

 

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The Tamiya Extra Thin I recommended dries very quickly. I've never used the Testors Liquid Cement but I imagine it is more viscous and therefore needs more time.

One knock against the Tamiya Extra Thin is, it does not form as strong a bond/weld. It is best for small pieces, for joins that won't be under load/stress, or for smoothing engraved panel lines, etc.

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12 minutes ago, Braff Zacklin said:

The Tamiya Extra Thin I recommended dries very quickly. I've never used the Testors Liquid Cement but I imagine it is more viscous and therefore needs more time.

One knock against the Tamiya Extra Thin is, it does not form as strong a bond/weld. It is best for small pieces, for joins that won't be under load/stress, or for smoothing engraved panel lines, etc.

I honestly thought the Testor's was what you had said. It popped up on the Michael's site as the only glue they had ready to ship, so I decided to try it. Ain't no biggy. :)

These are game pieces, so they need durability more than any other quality. I give those fiddly bits on the halftracks about two months of active gaming before they're all history.

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poke yourself in the finger with the exact-o, RD?

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I didn't realize how big an industry you're in.  seems like a lot of folks doing this sort of work.  but I like your style (heavy weathering and despair) .

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23 hours ago, wd40 said:

poke yourself in the finger with the exact-o, RD?

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I didn't realize how big an industry you're in.  seems like a lot of folks doing this sort of work.  but I like your style (heavy weathering and despair) .

That is a popped blister from my other hobby, pulling up clumps of crabgrass by the root.

I actually did stab myself in the ring finger, not visible in the photos. It ain't a real model until there's blood on it.

Thanks for the kind words. I have used many a mud splash to cover up my own glue fingerprints.

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Goofin around.

Parts of 1/48 Tamiya Pz II, 1/56 Rubicon Pz IV, resin Army Group North Miniatures 1/56 M3 Honey, and resin 1/56 Indian Pattern Carriers from Bolt Action (?), they're the nicest resin castings I've ever seen.

117601333_10101701135313409_244912792857

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Finally made some time for the Zero this weekend. She's currently lying on her top, waiting for the landing gear to fully cure. Her powerplant, prop, and cowling await nearby.

DSCF1496-Sharped.jpg

Plenty of touch-up and detailing still to go, but decals, washes, and general wear have been applied. Without the engine and cowling, she's reminiscent of a Val dive bomber.

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Tamiya's decals are infamously thicc. They sit proud despite many applications of softener. I should've hand-painted the hinomarus and squadron markings. Not liking how the "wing walk" wear turned out, either. Oh, well.

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Thought I could get away with not filling in the EPMs (ejector pin marks) on the inside of the landing gear covers, but I was wrong.

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Neglecting the build for two-and-a-half months didn't help with chipping. After much persuasion, the topcoat did pull away, but the result was unpredictable and haphazard.

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Still, for nearly 50-year-old molds, the kit isn't half bad.

DSCF1505-Sharped.jpg

Should have her finished up within a few days, then it's on to the F4F-4.

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Applied a satin varnish to the Reisen this morning. All that's left now is some touch-up around the cockpit and then the infamous "greenhouse" canopy, which I've procrastinated to the point of absurdity.

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Next project is already underway. Mentioned upthread what it would be, but here's a tease to refresh memories.

Spoiler

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The "office" mocked up with sticky tack.

 

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The Reisen is finally finished. Have also made good headway on the Wildcat, but I'll save that for another post.

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Painting the A6M2's greenhouse canopy was even worse than expected. Needed three hours just to mask it, and even then for pretty meh results. Tamiya used a strange combination of raised and recessed panes, so finding the seams under tape was extremely difficult. Used every trick in the book--bright light, burnishing with a toothpick, fresh blade, all for naught. Still, for less than $12 and seeing as how the molds are nearly 50 years old, the kit is a helluva good deal.

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Didn't glue the center section, so it can be removed/repositioned to expose the cockpit interior.

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If you're desperately curious to see more, feel free to open the spoiler.

Spoiler

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