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capnamerca

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There was a thread on the old site, but haven't seen one here. My current build is getting onto about 6 years old, and it's loud and big and frankly, ugly :). Plus, I don't need things like spinning hard drives, and 5 PCIe slots anymore. So I'm putting together a miniITX build and shooting for silent operation under normal workloads. Just pulled the trigger on the following:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600
  • ASrock Fata1ity B450 AM4 Mobo (4x SATA3, USBa+c, 802.11ac, BT4+)
  • G.Skill Ripjaws PC4 24000 (3000mhz) DDR4 RAM - 16GB
  • Noctua L9x65 CPU cooler (known to be basically silent)
  • Corsair RM750x PSU (fan doesn't run <40% load)
  • Powercolor RX570 4GB GPU
  • Cooler Master Elite 130 case

Should be smaller, quieter, and cleaner vs. my current build (i5 + R7300 + ATX form factor).

What about you? Any other nerds out there?

 

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My son built this one this summer for a gaming computer.  He seems pleased with it.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($329.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($128.98 @ Newegg Business) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($154.99) 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($119.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition Gaming 
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99) 
Total: $1583.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-28 13:18 EST-0500

Edited by davidg
wrong video card
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2 hours ago, markstanco said:

My 10 year old wants to do this for his Christmas gift.  I have been playing with newegg.com on a build, I just would hate to get some parts that werent compatible and disappoint him.

What hard drive are you getting?   

Start from the PCMasterRace builds (a reddit community for PCs, basically the build bible). Linky - https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/wiki/builds. You really can't screw it up as long as you make sure the mobo matches the proc, and the memory plays well with the proc. Both situations are easily google-able.

I'm re-using three Crucial SSDs that I already have. Will probably add an M.2 NVMe SSD in the future to really streamline things, but don't need it right now.

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On 11/27/2018 at 3:56 PM, capnamerca said:

There was a thread on the old site, but haven't seen one here. My current build is getting onto about 6 years old, and it's loud and big and frankly, ugly :). Plus, I don't need things like spinning hard drives, and 5 PCIe slots anymore. So I'm putting together a miniITX build and shooting for silent operation under normal workloads. Just pulled the trigger on the following:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600
  • ASrock Fata1ity B450 AM4 Mobo (4x SATA3, USBa+c, 802.11ac, BT4+)
  • G.Skill Ripjaws PC4 24000 (3000mhz) DDR4 RAM - 16GB
  • Noctua L9x65 CPU cooler (known to be basically silent)
  • Corsair RM750x PSU (fan doesn't run <40% load)
  • Powercolor RX570 4GB GPU
  • Cooler Master Elite 130 case

Should be smaller, quieter, and cleaner vs. my current build (i5 + R7300 + ATX form factor).

What about you? Any other nerds out there?

 

only concern is whether the ram will work at 2933/3066 (AMD doesn't have dividers for 3000) on that board.  ryzen processors can be picky about ram. if someone has reviewed that particular ram on newegg and said it worked with that particular board, then that's ok.  otherwise i'd find something on the QVL for either the board or the ram. 

Edited by elfenix
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My 2008 mac pro has been on its last legs for a few years now. After a couple rounds of upgrades over the years it’s well past time to replace it.

I’m currently waiting for the shipments of these parts to come in over the next few days. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tFgFyX

Going to be dual booting macOS and windows from two separate SSDs.

My only regret is that I won’t be putting it all back into this case.

5cddb4997a26cb1f78df146391e49549.jpg

If everything gets in by the end of the week I’ll be building this weekend. If not, then next weekend hopefully.

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15 hours ago, elfenix said:

only concern is whether the ram will work at 2933/3066 (AMD doesn't have dividers for 3000) on that board.  ryzen processors can be picky about ram. if someone has reviewed that particular ram on newegg and said it worked with that particular board, then that's ok.  otherwise i'd find something on the QVL for either the board or the ram. 

A fair point. The ram is straight from the PCMR builds, so I"m certain I'm not the first one to be using it. But we'll see ... not a difficult return if something is borked.

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I haven't done a build in about 5 years, but my goto was overclock.net forums and https://www.extremeoverclocking.com/ forums.  Lots of varying setups with different brands to get an idea of what is compatible.  And yes that will play games fine OP.  Just stick to 1080p monitor.  I would guess even at 1440p the card would start to linger around 30fps.  And honestly 1080p monitors are stupid cheap right now compared to anything with higher resolution.

Edited by Bigpoppapump
Found correct URLs
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3 hours ago, heso said:

My 2008 mac pro has been on its last legs for a few years now. After a couple rounds of upgrades over the years it’s well past time to replace it.

I’m currently waiting for the shipments of these parts to come in over the next few days. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tFgFyX

Going to be dual booting macOS and windows from two separate SSDs.
 

why no m2?

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14 hours ago, markstanco said:

Okay I want to build this computer with my kiddo, but I want the build to be around 1k with a SSHD and windows 10.

Little help with the components?

you don't want an SSHD.  you want a separate SSD and a regular hard drive for general storage.

do you need a monitor with that $1k?

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ok, but you're mixing your terms.  "SSHD" is a hard drive with a big (~32GB) flash ram cache built in.  at a big price premium.  they're useful for notebook computers where there aren't enough bays or slots for separate SSDs and HDDs. 

 

another question: are you in either houston or dallas?  if so, microcenter may be your best option for getting some of your components. 

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well, yeah, it is generic for solid state hard drive.  but that's a different thing from either a solid state drive or a hard drive. 

as for the build itself - the ones in the reddit wiki aren't bad, and i'd probably lean toward the 144hz build.  my only potential change would be to an amd 2700.  the 8600k will be faster in raw framerate than the 2700, but the 2700 may be smoother in certain high thread count games (far cry 5 comes to mind).  keep in mind the biggest performance difference between the reddit $800 and $1200 builds is from the graphics card.  the 2700 also comes with a usable CPU cooler so you can avoid that expense. 

if you need wifi it can be more convenient to get it built into the board.  and it'll have antennas which pick up signal way better than the little usb sticks do. 

 

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MVJgHh

or

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2Y3gHh

they're ~$1000 but still need a case.  cases are almost completely an aesthetic decision at this point - some are understated, a lot are gaudy.  pretty much anything is pretty quiet these days due to the 120 mm fans on everything.

power supply prices change all the time - newegg runs 2 day sales involving rebates and whatnot pretty much constantly.  you may need to sign up for their email spam to get the coupon code.  my advice is get whatever gold rated unit from seasonic, corsair or evga is on sale that day. 

Edited by elfenix
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On 12/5/2018 at 10:51 AM, elfenix said:

well, yeah, it is generic for solid state hard drive.  but that's a different thing from either a solid state drive or a hard drive. 

as for the build itself - the ones in the reddit wiki aren't bad, and i'd probably lean toward the 144hz build.  my only potential change would be to an amd 2700.  the 8600k will be faster in raw framerate than the 2700, but the 2700 may be smoother in certain high thread count games (far cry 5 comes to mind).  keep in mind the biggest performance difference between the reddit $800 and $1200 builds is from the graphics card.  the 2700 also comes with a usable CPU cooler so you can avoid that expense. 

if you need wifi it can be more convenient to get it built into the board.  and it'll have antennas which pick up signal way better than the little usb sticks do. 

 

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MVJgHh

or

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2Y3gHh

they're ~$1000 but still need a case.  cases are almost completely an aesthetic decision at this point - some are understated, a lot are gaudy.  pretty much anything is pretty quiet these days due to the 120 mm fans on everything.

power supply prices change all the time - newegg runs 2 day sales involving rebates and whatnot pretty much constantly.  you may need to sign up for their email spam to get the coupon code.  my advice is get whatever gold rated unit from seasonic, corsair or evga is on sale that day. 

Ya, I'd make an educated guess that the video card would still be the bottleneck with either of those CPUs.  A big question is 1080p or higher resolution monitor.  If you stick with 1080p the world is your Oyster.

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43 minutes ago, Bigpoppapump said:

Ya, I'd make an educated guess that the video card would still be the bottleneck with either of those CPUs.  A big question is 1080p or higher resolution monitor.  If you stick with 1080p the world is your Oyster.

For gaming, frame rate beats resolution.  Get the highest resolution, 120hz monitor you can afford, especially at 24" and below. A 1070ti probably wont get above 40 fps at 4K UHD and will look choppy compared to same card at  HD or QHD with a faster frame rate.

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1 hour ago, davidg said:

For gaming, frame rate beats resolution.  Get the highest resolution, 120hz monitor you can afford, especially at 24" and below. A 1070ti probably wont get above 40 fps at 4K UHD and will look choppy compared to same card at  HD or QHD with a faster frame rate.

For quick twitch competitive games like Fortnite or Overwatch then yes.  If you're playing Mobas or RPGs on PC, or doing anything involving video, you might want 1440 or 2048.  I'm on the 1080p boat myself. 1440 and 2048 games still look quite good at medium settings.  Just depends what you want.

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On 11/28/2018 at 12:20 PM, davidg said:

My son built this one this summer for a gaming computer.  He seems pleased with it.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($329.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($128.98 @ Newegg Business) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($154.99) 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($119.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition Gaming 
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99) 
Total: $1583.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-28 13:18 EST-0500

This is basically my current build except I have a 1TB SSD. 

That is a sick video card that I wish had've been in my budget. I have a 1080 - wish it was a 1080Ti.

I don't know if he's tried overclocking the CPU but you should be able to get 4.0Ghz out of it easily with stock case and cooling. Anything more than that and you will need hella fans and/or liquid cooling. 

On 12/6/2018 at 11:44 AM, Bigpoppapump said:

Ya, I'd make an educated guess that the video card would still be the bottleneck with either of those CPUs.  A big question is 1080p or higher resolution monitor.  If you stick with 1080p the world is your Oyster.

It's pretty difficult to bottleneck a 2700x unless you are running 2 GPUs or overclocking a beast of a GPU like a 1080 Ti. 

On 12/6/2018 at 12:55 PM, davidg said:

For gaming, frame rate beats resolution.  Get the highest resolution, 120hz monitor you can afford, especially at 24" and below. A 1070ti probably wont get above 40 fps at 4K UHD and will look choppy compared to same card at  HD or QHD with a faster frame rate.

Running games at 4K is ludicrously difficult unless you're trying to drop $2k plus on a build. I just upped to a 2k monitor and the framerate drops like a motherfucker once you start doing things like playing with resolution scaling and upping settings. Effectively scaled for 4k (2k @ 200% scaling) I was getting like 30-40 fps on lowest settings in BFV. Which maybe is okay for certain games but certainly not shooters. 

The tech just isn't there yet for anything resembling affordable 4k gaming - not to mention how expensive true 4k monitors are on top of it. 

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16 hours ago, markstanco said:

Lots of good info on this thread.

So, if I have a budget for hardware at 900 max, suggestions on a video card for games like fort night?

As mentioned (I think) I haven't built one in years. It's an ignorance thing with the parts I put together for the best bang for the buck.

Tried to do the best I could - this comes out to $960 but will destroy something like fortnite at 1080p.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4nv8vn

If you need help building it or have questions I have that same case and MOBO and just built mine a month or so ago (it was a bitch, but also my first build, and would be a great father/son bonding experience).

You said hardware so I didn't add an OS or optical or anything like that - do you need a monitor?

Edit: If you are really budget constrained, you could just drop the SSD or go with a 120 GB and pick up a bigger one later. I doubt your 10 year old son will complain about having to put games on a 7200 RPM - he will quite literally be a kid on Christmas with that processor and GPU. 

Edited by ztejas
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Unrelated update in regards to 4k gaming: 

Lowest settings on BFV last night at effective 4k I was hovering around 50-60 fps, which, for me on a 144hz monitor is virtually unplayable, but would be okay for something like an RPG/Strategy game (or anything single-player, really). 

The issue is that this generates a FUCKTON of heat inside the case. I mean you are really pushing the GPU and CPU hard doing that. I would probably have to drop another $100-$200 on cooling on my current rig (which was $1,500 to begin with) to keep something from crashing after any longer than an hour or so. And again, this is on lowest settings.

Like I figured, to run anything at 60 fps+ on medium-high settings on a 4k monitor you are looking at $2,500 easy. 

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1 hour ago, ztejas said:

Unrelated update in regards to 4k gaming: 

Lowest settings on BFV last night at effective 4k I was hovering around 50-60 fps, which, for me on a 144hz monitor is virtually unplayable, but would be okay for something like an RPG/Strategy game (or anything single-player, really). 

The issue is that this generates a FUCKTON of heat inside the case. I mean you are really pushing the GPU and CPU hard doing that. I would probably have to drop another $100-$200 on cooling on my current rig (which was $1,500 to begin with) to keep something from crashing after any longer than an hour or so. And again, this is on lowest settings.

Like I figured, to run anything at 60 fps+ on medium-high settings on a 4k monitor you are looking at $2,500 easy. 

Really need dual 1080s or better.  That's what my son said he would do when he wants to upgrade to 4K system.  Will need to upgrade PS at that time and some other case cooling like you said.

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3 hours ago, davidg said:

Really need dual 1080s or better.  That's what my son said he would do when he wants to upgrade to 4K system.  Will need to upgrade PS at that time and some other case cooling like you said.

Idk. I bet you could get pretty far by overclocking the CPU and GPU he has. Granted that's less user friendly (although it's more fun), but it might make more sense to invest in some bad-ass cooling (since you will need it either way), see how much you can get out of the 2700x and 1080 Ti and then go from there. 

Not sure how much your son knows on the subject - he might know more than I do - but at this point it's probably better to invest in a 2080 or 2080 Ti (maybe see if you could flip the 1080Ti - depending on it's condition) since that will likely outperform dual 1080s in most situations and allow for more stability (a 2080 Ti almost certainly will). Some games tend to run into issues with SLI. 

And now I have officially exhausted my knowledge without turning to the google. Good luck when he/y'all decide to go for it! My jump to 2k has been pretty fucking awesome and I'm worried I'm forever spoiled and won't be able to palate 1080p anymore. 

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8 hours ago, Doc Reeves said:

Id go with a used GTX 1070 or maybe ti if you can find a deal for around $400

i got a used 1080 (former miner) for $285 after ebay 15% coupon.  no issues related to it being a former miner.   another of those coupons is coming up on sunday, though you have to watch for sellers raising their prices to take all the benefit. 

fortnite isn't exactly intensive.  a 1060 runs it more than fine.   

i wouldn't do dual 1080s.  dual GPU has been on life support for the better part of a decade.  better to spend the money on a 2080 if buying new. 

Edited by elfenix
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I just completed the following build/battlestation a few weeks ago:

  • CPU: I7-8700K
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080ti Gaming X Trio
  • CPU cooler: Noctua D15s
  • Case: Fractal Design Define R6
  • Boot drive: 970 Evo ssd m.2 500gb
  • Game drive: 860 Evo ssd 1tb
  • Media drive: WD Red hdd 6tb (2x)
  • DIMM: G.Skill Ripsaw V DDR4 16gb 3200mhz 14 cas
  • PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA Platinum 750w
  • Mouse: Logitech G900
  • Monitor: AW3418DW 3440x1440p
  • Monitor arm: AmazonBasics monitor arm
  • Speakers: Edifier r1280db
  • Desk: Karlby oak countertop 74" + couple of Klimpen drawer/table top with legs

Total cost was around $5,000.00. Buying components throughout the 3-4 weeks before Black Friday shaved off ~$400. Everything was purchased from online vendors that didn't charge sales tax except the mouse from a local Best Buy, the speakers, monitor arm, and the desk stuff. Total build time was around 4 hours. Hardest part was installing the Noctua cooler as the springs on the screw kept causing one side to pop out when I screwed in the other, and I had to re-apply the thermal paste because I was concerned it was drying up. One of the screws on the case got stripped and I couldn't remove the side panel so I was afraid I couldn't fit the 2080ti, which is a monster. It worked out okay. 14 CAS latency probably not necessary on an Intel build but I got it for a good price. I was extremely lucky in obtaining the 2080ti, as I wanted this particular card from this maker and it had been unavailable from most vendors since launch date for 2 months; I just happened to check Newegg one night and saw that the "add to cart" button was not grayed out and the site did not say it was OUT OF STOCK in bright red font.

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1 hour ago, Leamas said:

I just completed the following build/battlestation a few weeks ago:

  • CPU: I7-8700K
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080ti Gaming X Trio
  • CPU cooler: Noctua D15s
  • Case: Fractal Design Define R6
  • Boot drive: 970 Evo ssd m.2 500gb
  • Game drive: 860 Evo ssd 1tb
  • Media drive: WD Red hdd 6tb (2x)
  • DIMM: G.Skill Ripsaw V DDR4 16gb 3200mhz 14 cas
  • PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA Platinum 750w
  • Mouse: Logitech G900
  • Monitor: AW3418DW 3440x1440p
  • Monitor arm: AmazonBasics monitor arm
  • Speakers: Edifier r1280db
  • Desk: Karlby oak countertop 74" + couple of Klimpen drawer/table top with legs

Total cost was around $5,000.00. Buying components throughout the 3-4 weeks before Black Friday shaved off ~$400. Everything was purchased from online vendors that didn't charge sales tax except the mouse from a local Best Buy, the speakers, monitor arm, and the desk stuff. Total build time was around 4 hours. Hardest part was installing the Noctua cooler as the springs on the screw kept causing one side to pop out when I screwed in the other, and I had to re-apply the thermal paste because I was concerned it was drying up. One of the screws on the case got stripped and I couldn't remove the side panel so I was afraid I couldn't fit the 2080ti, which is a monster. It worked out okay. 14 CAS latency probably not necessary on an Intel build but I got it for a good price. I was extremely lucky in obtaining the 2080ti, as I wanted this particular card from this maker and it had been unavailable from most vendors since launch date for 2 months; I just happened to check Newegg one night and saw that the "add to cart" button was not grayed out and the site did not say it was OUT OF STOCK in bright red font.

This is hot. What mobo? You left it out. 

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3 hours ago, Leamas said:

ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero

I have to ask.... you dropped $5k. Why not go 4k on the monitor? Are the widescreen 4ks just stupidly expensive?

Just researched. Looks like they dont make anything above 3840×1600 for widescreen curves. Interesting.

Also - what games have you been melting with that bad boy? Always like titles that give my rig a good workout.

Edited by ztejas
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3 hours ago, ztejas said:

I have to ask.... you dropped $5k. Why not go 4k on the monitor? Are the widescreen 4ks just stupidly expensive?

Just researched. Looks like they dont make anything above 3840×1600 for widescreen curves. Interesting.

Also - what games have you been melting with that bad boy? Always like titles that give my rig a good workout.

A matter of preference and the technology isn't there to see 4K at its best. I wanted a monitor with a higher pixel count than my last 1080p monitor but with a higher refresh rate than almost all of the 4K monitors I could find. 1440p hits the sweet spot. Plus, it's ultrawide.


My brother has a 4K monitor to edit videos and photos, and doesn't play any games. In my research, I found that they are wonderful monitors to generate creative or artful content, which I don't know a thing about and wouldn't do. My uses include email, word processing, doing Westlaw research, listening to music, and playing games a few times a week. I think that behind video editing, games are what normal people do that stresses a PC the most. So I wanted a PC that could run stressful games. This means getting a monitor with a high pixel count, at least 120hz refresh rate, IPS, and G-Sync modules. Like it has been stated in this thread, I did not find many 4K monitors that have all that and cost under $1,800. Even if I were to drop that much for a 4K monitor, there may not be a consumer-grade PC with a single GPU that can capably run a game without turning down more detail settings than an owner of a high-end GPU would want. DLSS may change my belief in the future. But as of now and after a few weeks of use, I have been impressed with the monitor I have. I didn't even consider getting an ultrawide. Now I don't think I can go back. Not all games/applications support 21:9 yet (are there many that support 24:10?), but there are hacks to make it work for a lot of them. I may have gotten lucky by getting a panel with negligible amount of IPS bleed, no flickering, and no dead pixel that my eye can detect. I heard this monitor, and several other 1440p monitors, tend to have more duds than normal in the quality control department.

I've had time to play 1 hour of GTA V with every setting maxed except I kept MSAA on 4X (not 8X) and grass detail on "high" (not "ultra" or "very high"). Everything else - extended distance scaling, all the shadow details, reflections, post fx effects -- maxed out. I ran a benchmark last night and all 5 "pass throughs" taken together resulted in a 73 FPS average, with dips in the low 60s in grassy areas and spikes in the 110s in the City. To me, that is acceptable-to-optimal performance. The game looks fantastic and runs without a hitch. Extended distance scaling maxed out and 4X MSAA probably combined to cost 50-65 FPS in most of the scenes. If I were to turn those off, I likely could see 120-145 FPS, which is what many reviewers did when they tested the 2080ti cards. This caused some people to get confused when they watched YouTube videos showing the card powering GTA V or the Witcher 3 or the Division at barely over 60 FPS. But either the uploader fails to mention, or people fail to ask, questions about the settings.

When I cranked up MSAA to 8X, turned grass to "ultra", and ran a GTA V benchmark, the FPS average went below 40. Out of further curiosity, I entered the Nvidia control panel and enabled DSR at 4X my native resolution. I went back into the game and ran a test at 6880x2880 resolution or something. ~27 FPS average. GTA V is a 3-year old game and has been fine-tuned for the PC as well as any console game can be. Yet this game can be extremely taxing at 1440p and with nearly-maxed out settings. With my monitor, I can almost get the best image possible and comfortably play at over 60 FPS. On a 4K monitor, I think I would need to turn down settings to get 60 FPS or keep the same settings and play at 35-40 FPS. That tipped the balance in favor of a 1440p monitor. Ultrawide just made the decision easier.

For fun, I fired up Assassin's Creed Brotherhood and played around 45 minutes. With max settings, I was seeing 220-300+ FPS, as recorded by the system on-screen display. It's a dated game (8 years?) that still looks nice. I exited the game back to the menu, cranked up the resolution to be 6880x2880 by again turning DSR on and at 4X the native. It was STUNNING how clear and detailed the faces, clothing, buildings, and foliage became. FPS went down to 80-90 (~70% performance hit). Personally, I cannot tell the difference between 60 and 90 FPS, so I kept it for that game. DSR really is a marvelous technology for older titles or titles where you have a lot of FPS headroom you can spare to get better image quality. I understand you wouldn't want to do that all the time, especially for esports/online competitive games where you need the high framecount.

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pretty god deal on an Evga FTW mother board with intel 2066 socket for $149 with 5% coupon. I picked one up for $136.08:  

VGA X299 FTW K, LGA 2066, Intel X299, SATA 6Gb/s, USB 3.1, USB 3.0, EATX, Intel Motherboard 142-SX-E297-KR: :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TR5CMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Edited by Doc Reeves
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On 12/13/2018 at 12:23 PM, ztejas said:

Unrelated update in regards to 4k gaming: 

Lowest settings on BFV last night at effective 4k I was hovering around 50-60 fps, which, for me on a 144hz monitor is virtually unplayable, but would be okay for something like an RPG/Strategy game (or anything single-player, really). 

The issue is that this generates a FUCKTON of heat inside the case. I mean you are really pushing the GPU and CPU hard doing that. I would probably have to drop another $100-$200 on cooling on my current rig (which was $1,500 to begin with) to keep something from crashing after any longer than an hour or so. And again, this is on lowest settings.

Like I figured, to run anything at 60 fps+ on medium-high settings on a 4k monitor you are looking at $2,500 easy. 

Ever seen the video(s) of an un-cooled CPU exploding?  Not sure, but it would make sense that an over heated one could do that also.  Spend that extra $100-$200 bucks, could keep you from getting boomed.

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7 hours ago, markstanco said:

I put all that stuff for the midpriced build on the Reddit thread and couldnt get anything on the screen to come up with either the onboard video card or the upgraded one.  I will look at it again tonight. 

Does the monitor give you a black screen, like can it tell that something is plugged in or is it giving you absolutely nothing?

When I did my build sometimes it would take quite awhile for the Mobo to come up. The whole process was a bit finicky - sometimes I'd get a screen then nothing, sometimes nothing at all.

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  • 1 month later...

I’ve been in the Mac universe for about a decade. Their offerings have lost my attention and I decided this was an opportunity to build my own. It’s mainly for web surfing but I do play some games on PS4. I used to play computer games way back in the day so I figured I’d like the option to play on PC.

So the goal was for a solid performer for $1200. I found some deals so let’s hope the parts don’t crap out.

Bonus I should get three games as promotions with the parts purchased.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor (Purchased For $235.00 after bundle price)
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $155.00 after bundle price)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $110.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $125.00)
Video Card: XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS Black Edition OC+ Video Card (Purchased For $175.00 at Frys w/ 20% off)
Case: Phanteks - Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass (Black/White) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $54.00)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $83.00)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (Purchased For $36.00)
Monitor: Dell - S2419HGF 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $170.00)
Total: $1143.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-21 23:13 EST-0500

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