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Let's Talk Tractors , Implements and Such

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Run a disc over it until it's bare ground. Then spread the seed and pull a roller or drag a harrow across it to cover the seed. The alternate method is use a planter. 

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New Tractor I bought last month. Been really fun to work on with my dad out at our place. 

John Deere 950. Paid $3400 and only has 320 hours on it. 

 

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On 2/18/2019 at 12:08 PM, fattyflattie said:

Damn. I didn’t know anything painted green could even get down to $3400. Good deal. 

Guy that used to work for my dad got it from his FIL when he died. Didn't want it and needed some money.

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I have 40 acres that needs to be cleaned up. Lots of downed limbs, trees, etc that I want to clear. 

As of now I am thinking of getting a BX42 for my Kubota, but I am just repeating what I have read. I would like to hear from someone who has used this or similar attachments and can share their experience. Especially the safety side.

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On 2/19/2019 at 5:46 PM, Scooter Monzingo said:

I have 40 acres that needs to be cleaned up. Lots of downed limbs, trees, etc that I want to clear. 

As of now I am thinking of getting a BX42 for my Kubota, but I am just repeating what I have read. I would like to hear from someone who has used this or similar attachments and can share their experience. Especially the safety side.

My Kubota dealer is an OK guy but when I asked him to sell me a woodchipper he didn't seem that enthusiastic and said he needed to "go look into it since I don't regularly sell those." I took that as a sign that maybe I didn't need to buy one from him. 

I post occasionally on Orange Tractor Talk and the consensus there was to get something from Woodmaxx, which I did. I bought a WM-8H and literally just finished assembling it yesterday afternoon (and there was a TON of assembly required, FWIW). After church today I am going to fill it with hydraulic fluid and start her up.

I'll post a video and initial impressions tonight.

 

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Also this POS spreader from TS failed on us the second time out. Weld busted right where the tongue connects. Do not purchase.

GroundWork Tow-Behind Spreader with Rain Cover, 200 lb. Capacity at Tractor Supply Co.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/groundwork-tow-behind-spreader-wrain-cover-200-lb-capacity

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


I have this one and it has been money for a few years.

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To remove, sharpen and re-install blades on a 10’ Deere shredder or just get new ones and install?

Apparently mowing rocks is not good for shredded blades.  

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On 3/31/2019 at 8:34 AM, crimsonlonghorn said:

I asked him to sell me a woodchipper

MIL problems also?  I get it....

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, deadshank said:

To remove, sharpen and re-install blades on a 10’ Deere shredder or just get new ones and install?

Apparently mowing rocks is not good for shredded blades.  

Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.

If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.

 

Edited by davidg

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1 hour ago, davidg said:

Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.

If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.

 

The blades are completely jacked up and out of balance.  Dragging the shredder into Uvalde on Saturday to get them replaced. We don't have all of the equipment required to get  the job done right.  Gonna be a long and slow drive in with 5 miles across the ranch and then another 15 on Hwy. 140.  Can't wait.

This is  the model, BTW

Image result for john deere 10 foot shredder

 

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Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.
If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.
 
Kiss my ass, ese.

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Okay, I've decided to sell my Kubota L3800.  I've had it for about 5 to 6 years and only have 124.5 hours on it.  Haven't used it in a couple of years since I got a zero-turn that I mow with now.  Any pointers on how to go about it?  Have a 5' shredder and a box grader to go with.

 

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Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

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Get a heavy bumper for it. You can find a premade one or have one welded up. You can design it so weights can be hung from it or taken off. Added bonus of protecting the radiator a little more.

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On 4/22/2019 at 10:36 AM, Catpfish said:

Okay, I've decided to sell my Kubota L3800.  I've had it for about 5 to 6 years and only have 124.5 hours on it.  Haven't used it in a couple of years since I got a zero-turn that I mow with now.  Any pointers on how to go about it?  Have a 5' shredder and a box grader to go with.

 

I'm not at all sure how the listing process works, but I found my tractor (140 hp New Holland) on Tractorhouse.com

Pretty user-friendly interface for buyers.

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Posted (edited)
On 4/23/2019 at 10:45 AM, BayouBill said:

Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

If you have a loader bucket or pallet forks you can just put something heavy in there and hold it low to the ground. Bags of sand or cement might work.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, didn't look closely enough at your tractor pic. 

Edited by crimsonlonghorn

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On 4/23/2019 at 10:45 AM, BayouBill said:

Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

Just weld up a box and fill it with water. Drain when you don't need. 

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Posted (edited)

A question for you experts.  I own a 33HP Workmaster with about 25 rated RPM at rear PTO.  I borrowed an OLD category-1, 3-point brush mower.  I've mowed a little bit, and it runs fine.  But my concern is this, and I honestly have no idea if this is "normal."  

When I engage the PTO, the RPMs shoot down, the engine shutters just a little, then it picks back up.  Engaged RPM runs around 2600-2700, but when PTO kicks on, it jumps down to 1900-2000 for a couple seconds, then back up to normal RPM.  I mowed tonight for about 45 minutes straight, and no issues at all.  Just concerned about engaging the PTO and fucking something up.  I'm going to mow our pasture tomorrow, and it'll take 2-3 hours.

Edited by ernest_t_bass

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If your PTO disengages when you push your clutch all the way in, try turning it on in neutral with the clutch depressed. Then you can slowly release the clutch to prevent it from bogging down too much.

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Posted (edited)

Seems pretty normal to me, but I'm not there...

That being said, when I first got my wood chipper I could not get it started without popping the shear bolts on the PTO. Then I learned to start the PTO low and get the chipper wheel turning, THEN ramp it up gently. Now it works like a charm. I would think it's a similar concept with the gearbox on your cutter starting from a stopped position and overcoming all of that inertia to get moving. 

Edited by crimsonlonghorn

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34 minutes ago, crimsonlonghorn said:

Seems pretty normal to me, but I'm not there...

That being said, when I first got my wood chipper I could not get it started without popping the shear bolts on the PTO. Then I learned to start the PTO low and get the chipper wheel turning, THEN ramp it up gently. Now it works like a charm. I would think it's a similar concept with the gearbox on your cutter starting from a stopped position and overcoming all of that inertia to get moving. 

This sound pretty spot on to the link I posted.  I'm going to try that with the mower, and if that works, I'll be doing that with all implements (based on recs in link).

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Yeah, lower rpm when engaging PTO then throttle back up and begin moving.   How big is the mower?  generally takes about 5hp/ft of mower width so a 60" mower is about the biggest you would want to run.

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You should be at idle when you engage your PTO. Anything other than that and you’re purposely trying to break something.

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49 minutes ago, thestud said:

You should be at idle when you engage your PTO. Anything other than that and you’re purposely trying to break something.

Definitely at idle. Not engaging while driving.  

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I have a keyboard in front of me now instead of my phone for ants.  

Everyone has given you some good advice, and it sounds like you've got the whole "idle down first" figured out.  I hate buying depreciating equipment, so if I were you I would just keep on keepin' on with the tractor you already own and the borrowed mower.  If the mower is really pulling down your tractor, you might just take half-swaths in the thick shit.  Also, you might engage your pto over dirt or short grass and then move into the stuff you want to mow.  If the stuff gets too nasty, it'll just kill your tractor engine.  Opposite end of the spectrum is having a tractor that's too big for the implement, and then the tractor is so powerful that you don't realize there's a problem until the shit really flies apart.  

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Got it all done.  Probably put a total of 4 hours on the pair.  It is a 72" mower, and I definitely think it was probably too big.  I didn't have any issues, and it cut just fine.  Still "popped" when I engaged the PTO in lower RPM, but nowhere near as bad.  I have a split pasture.  I reduced some stress by only starting the PTO 2x, and just left it running at cut the rest of the time.  Thanks for the advice, experts!

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