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On 2/19/2019 at 5:46 PM, Scooter Monzingo said:

I have 40 acres that needs to be cleaned up. Lots of downed limbs, trees, etc that I want to clear. 

As of now I am thinking of getting a BX42 for my Kubota, but I am just repeating what I have read. I would like to hear from someone who has used this or similar attachments and can share their experience. Especially the safety side.

My Kubota dealer is an OK guy but when I asked him to sell me a woodchipper he didn't seem that enthusiastic and said he needed to "go look into it since I don't regularly sell those." I took that as a sign that maybe I didn't need to buy one from him. 

I post occasionally on Orange Tractor Talk and the consensus there was to get something from Woodmaxx, which I did. I bought a WM-8H and literally just finished assembling it yesterday afternoon (and there was a TON of assembly required, FWIW). After church today I am going to fill it with hydraulic fluid and start her up.

I'll post a video and initial impressions tonight.

 

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Also this POS spreader from TS failed on us the second time out. Weld busted right where the tongue connects. Do not purchase.

GroundWork Tow-Behind Spreader with Rain Cover, 200 lb. Capacity at Tractor Supply Co.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/groundwork-tow-behind-spreader-wrain-cover-200-lb-capacity

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


I have this one and it has been money for a few years.

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To remove, sharpen and re-install blades on a 10’ Deere shredder or just get new ones and install?

Apparently mowing rocks is not good for shredded blades.  

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On 3/31/2019 at 8:34 AM, crimsonlonghorn said:

I asked him to sell me a woodchipper

MIL problems also?  I get it....

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16 hours ago, deadshank said:

To remove, sharpen and re-install blades on a 10’ Deere shredder or just get new ones and install?

Apparently mowing rocks is not good for shredded blades.  

Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.

If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.

 

Edited by davidg

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1 hour ago, davidg said:

Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.

If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.

 

The blades are completely jacked up and out of balance.  Dragging the shredder into Uvalde on Saturday to get them replaced. We don't have all of the equipment required to get  the job done right.  Gonna be a long and slow drive in with 5 miles across the ranch and then another 15 on Hwy. 140.  Can't wait.

This is  the model, BTW

Image result for john deere 10 foot shredder

 

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Remove them and inspect to see if bolts are worn or the holes in the blades have worn oval.  In either case, replace.  If not, and you only have nicks in the blades, try to sharpen.
If you have difficulty removing the blade bolts, PM Stanco,  I believe he is experienced in shredder blade removal and knows all the tricks.
 
Kiss my ass, ese.

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Okay, I've decided to sell my Kubota L3800.  I've had it for about 5 to 6 years and only have 124.5 hours on it.  Haven't used it in a couple of years since I got a zero-turn that I mow with now.  Any pointers on how to go about it?  Have a 5' shredder and a box grader to go with.

 

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Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

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On 4/22/2019 at 10:36 AM, Catpfish said:

Okay, I've decided to sell my Kubota L3800.  I've had it for about 5 to 6 years and only have 124.5 hours on it.  Haven't used it in a couple of years since I got a zero-turn that I mow with now.  Any pointers on how to go about it?  Have a 5' shredder and a box grader to go with.

 

I'm not at all sure how the listing process works, but I found my tractor (140 hp New Holland) on Tractorhouse.com

Pretty user-friendly interface for buyers.

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On 4/23/2019 at 10:45 AM, BayouBill said:

Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

If you have a loader bucket or pallet forks you can just put something heavy in there and hold it low to the ground. Bags of sand or cement might work.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, didn't look closely enough at your tractor pic. 

Edited by crimsonlonghorn

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On 4/23/2019 at 10:45 AM, BayouBill said:

Anything you can put on the front of a tractor for counterweight? Don't really want to buy the actual weights designed for it and wondering if there is a DIY way to add some. My tractor is the Deere 950 at top of the page.

Just weld up a box and fill it with water. Drain when you don't need. 

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A question for you experts.  I own a 33HP Workmaster with about 25 rated RPM at rear PTO.  I borrowed an OLD category-1, 3-point brush mower.  I've mowed a little bit, and it runs fine.  But my concern is this, and I honestly have no idea if this is "normal."  

When I engage the PTO, the RPMs shoot down, the engine shutters just a little, then it picks back up.  Engaged RPM runs around 2600-2700, but when PTO kicks on, it jumps down to 1900-2000 for a couple seconds, then back up to normal RPM.  I mowed tonight for about 45 minutes straight, and no issues at all.  Just concerned about engaging the PTO and fucking something up.  I'm going to mow our pasture tomorrow, and it'll take 2-3 hours.

Edited by ernest_t_bass

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Seems pretty normal to me, but I'm not there...

That being said, when I first got my wood chipper I could not get it started without popping the shear bolts on the PTO. Then I learned to start the PTO low and get the chipper wheel turning, THEN ramp it up gently. Now it works like a charm. I would think it's a similar concept with the gearbox on your cutter starting from a stopped position and overcoming all of that inertia to get moving. 

Edited by crimsonlonghorn

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34 minutes ago, crimsonlonghorn said:

Seems pretty normal to me, but I'm not there...

That being said, when I first got my wood chipper I could not get it started without popping the shear bolts on the PTO. Then I learned to start the PTO low and get the chipper wheel turning, THEN ramp it up gently. Now it works like a charm. I would think it's a similar concept with the gearbox on your cutter starting from a stopped position and overcoming all of that inertia to get moving. 

This sound pretty spot on to the link I posted.  I'm going to try that with the mower, and if that works, I'll be doing that with all implements (based on recs in link).

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Yeah, lower rpm when engaging PTO then throttle back up and begin moving.   How big is the mower?  generally takes about 5hp/ft of mower width so a 60" mower is about the biggest you would want to run.

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49 minutes ago, thestud said:

You should be at idle when you engage your PTO. Anything other than that and you’re purposely trying to break something.

Definitely at idle. Not engaging while driving.  

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I have a keyboard in front of me now instead of my phone for ants.  

Everyone has given you some good advice, and it sounds like you've got the whole "idle down first" figured out.  I hate buying depreciating equipment, so if I were you I would just keep on keepin' on with the tractor you already own and the borrowed mower.  If the mower is really pulling down your tractor, you might just take half-swaths in the thick shit.  Also, you might engage your pto over dirt or short grass and then move into the stuff you want to mow.  If the stuff gets too nasty, it'll just kill your tractor engine.  Opposite end of the spectrum is having a tractor that's too big for the implement, and then the tractor is so powerful that you don't realize there's a problem until the shit really flies apart.  

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Got it all done.  Probably put a total of 4 hours on the pair.  It is a 72" mower, and I definitely think it was probably too big.  I didn't have any issues, and it cut just fine.  Still "popped" when I engaged the PTO in lower RPM, but nowhere near as bad.  I have a split pasture.  I reduced some stress by only starting the PTO 2x, and just left it running at cut the rest of the time.  Thanks for the advice, experts!

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On 1/12/2020 at 8:42 PM, Errestaurants said:

thinking about picking this up.  7040 is a damn good tractor. any thoughts on price if everything checks out? i'll check MachinaryPete

 

https://www.tommymckinley.com/inventory/?/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/78823189/2007-kubota-m7040hd?dlr=1&pcid=2950711

Did you bite on this?  That's a clean, low  hour tractor for 12 years old.   A new M7060 set up the same way lists for about $45k and I've been getting quotes for about 10-12% off that.   That tractor has sat a whole lot so I would be slightly concerned on issues that might crop up if you start putting heavy hours on it.

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1 hour ago, davidg said:

Did you bite on this?  That's a clean, low  hour tractor for 12 years old.   A new M7060 set up the same way lists for about $45k and I've been getting quotes for about 10-12% off that.   That tractor has sat a whole lot so I would be slightly concerned on issues that might crop up if you start putting heavy hours on it.

Not yet. I just got a quote from Athens tractor for a new 6060 open station with canopy. Dual remotes, 3rd function loader and bucket.

I've got tax exemption so its $39,000 cash price out the door. Not truly apples to apples cause it 60hp vs 70 hp on the 7040. 

Zimmerer in Ft. Worth has a stock show special for a 6060 for $33k. No canopy, single remote and no third function. 0% 84 months. 

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Just now, Errestaurants said:

Not yet. I just got a quote from Athens tractor for a new 6060 open station with canopy. Dual remotes, 3rd function loader and bucket.

I've got tax exemption so its $39,000 cash price out the door. Not truly apples to apples cause it 60hp vs 70 hp on the 7040. 

Zimmerer in Ft. Worth has a stock show special for a 6060 for $33k. No canopy, single remote and no third function. 0% 84 months. 

If I go new, I'm going to get the 12 spd/540e option and the LSW radial tires.  I don't think the M6060 is available with the 12 spd.

In that area, I've got quotes from Lowe in Tyler and Rucker in Palestine.   Our place is 50 miles from the closest dealer so I've looked at dealers on my drive up from Houston and Normagee has quoted the best deal so far.  

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5 hours ago, davidg said:

If I go new, I'm going to get the 12 spd/540e option and the LSW radial tires.  I don't think the M6060 is available with the 12 spd.

In that area, I've got quotes from Lowe in Tyler and Rucker in Palestine.   Our place is 50 miles from the closest dealer so I've looked at dealers on my drive up from Houston and Normagee has quoted the best deal so far.  

6060 is only 8x8. Where you at? I'm in Kaufman and Henderson counties. I don't care about color but i'd like to give orange a try. You have any thoughts on New Holland or MF or Case?Mahindra has some good deals but dealer support could be iffy in the long term even though Pineco in Kerens is pretty good. 

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Our place is SW of Kerens on Lake RC, over toward I45. I’ve looked a little at the Mahindra but think The Indians are still a few years behind in quality compared to the Japanese. I am willing to pay the premium for the new Kubota since I won’t be close to a dealer and don’t want to deal with the little nitpicking issues I read about on the Mahindra and MF. I’ve heard some good things about Kioti (Korean Kubota) and there is a dealership in Waco and one in Terrell but I haven’t looked close at them.


One of the guys on here has a small, Tier 3 emissions Kubota that is a good deal but the loader isn’t big enough to pick up large round bale which is one of my needs.

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Off 45 I cut through on 287 from Fairfield to Malakoff. Some big deer behind the RC dam. Lots of hogs down there to. You might know the Hammer family who owns Pineco. They live out on the Lake.

I've heard good things about Kioti also. Tractorsbynet.com is one of my favorite sites. Also texasbowhunter and cattletoday. 

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Anybody have any suggestions (or experience) for something good for scooping up cow manure under my pecan trees in the pasture? Have tried it with the regular bucket and it's not optimal. 

Don't want to rake it because that will move pecans on the ground, too. Would rather scoop it up. 

The problem with the regular tractor bucket is that it doesn't lie flat on the ground so it either misses the cow patty or it digs into the ground and scars up the dirt around it. 

Would something like a low profile skid steer bucket work? 

 

image.png.f3dd6f501938af9582f1942465a3a0a2.png

 

 

Or a skeleton bucket?

image.png.4b1390cb78b8b53bebcb7f41b5c3dffb.png

image.png.b35148783183dbbf62bae7e3dc4a15c1.png

 

I'm leaning towards trying the skeleton bucket. My only concern is that since it's open on the bottom it won't hold the manure for very long distances. 

Anybody else have any advice? 

 

 

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Why are you wanting to remove it?  Natural fertilizer and all that.  

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28 minutes ago, davidg said:

Why are you wanting to remove it?  Natural fertilizer and all that.  

Only want to remove it during the harvest immediately before I collect under am individual tree. If my harvester runs over the cow patties it makes a heck of a mess inside of the machine and gets the pecans dirty. My cleaner can separate normal dry "trash" but since the manure is wet and sticky it doesn't work at all. 

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1 hour ago, crimsonlonghorn said:

Only want to remove it during the harvest immediately before I collect under am individual tree. If my harvester runs over the cow patties it makes a heck of a mess inside of the machine and gets the pecans dirty. My cleaner can separate normal dry "trash" but since the manure is wet and sticky it doesn't work at all. 

spacer.png

Give your kid one of these and and have them throw it in your tractor bucket.

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Posted (edited)

Skeleton bucket more emulates a stable fork.  Too much to do by hand I assume?

Edited by fattyflattie
damnit Judge beat me to it.

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37 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

Skeleton bucket more emulates a stable fork.  Too much to do by hand I assume?

Yes, I have 80-something mostly native trees and each year just under 50% are going to produce enough to be worth harvesting. The spread of each tree is about 50 foot diameter, so that's a lot of very heavy cow shit to pick up.

I mostly did it by hand last year and would prefer something a little more automated.

The TPGA recommends just removing the cows from the land for 3-4 months before and during the harvest so that it can decompose and dry out but that's not really an option for us. 

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32 minutes ago, crimsonlonghorn said:

Yes, I have 80-something mostly native trees and each year just under 50% are going to produce enough to be worth harvesting. The spread of each tree is about 50 foot diameter, so that's a lot of very heavy cow shit to pick up.

I mostly did it by hand last year and would prefer something a little more automated.

The TPGA recommends just removing the cows from the land for 3-4 months before and during the harvest so that it can decompose and dry out but that's not really an option for us. 

Just put some diapers on them.

spacer.png

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1 hour ago, fattyflattie said:

Skeleton bucket more emulates a stable fork.  Too much to do by hand I assume?

I agree with this. Let's us know how it works out.

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Out of principle I agree with whatever Restaurants says- that guy is on a flaming hot roll these past couple of weeks.

Can you remove the cows a week or so prior?  That will give the cow shit time to dry and solidify.  Your only hope with wet cow shit is a flat-bottom shovel or a loader bucket.  The skeleton bucket will not work well.  My advice would either be to stick with the smooth bucket and become a better tractor operator (it will lie flat on the ground, you just aren't doing it correctly) or the skeleton bucket if you can justify the cost.  If you're having trouble perfecting the smooth bucket, the one with the digging teeth is going to gouge the shit out of the ground if you're off even a little bit.  If you're in a tractor, it really helps to have someone on the ground that can help with the height and especially angle of your bucket.  There's a little metal rod on your loader that moves with the angle of the bucket- when you have the angle where you want it, pay attention to how much rod is sticking out of the hole.  Much like what your mom told me last night.

 

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Also contingent upon letting the cow shit dry, before the pecan start falling you could drag a small harrow around the trees, which would break up the large chunks of manure and make the ground smoother.  

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On 7/22/2020 at 11:05 AM, crimsonlonghorn said:

Anybody have any suggestions (or experience) for something good for scooping up cow manure under my pecan trees in the pasture? Have tried it with the regular bucket and it's not optimal. 

Don't want to rake it because that will move pecans on the ground, too. Would rather scoop it up. 

The problem with the regular tractor bucket is that it doesn't lie flat on the ground so it either misses the cow patty or it digs into the ground and scars up the dirt around it. 

Would something like a low profile skid steer bucket work? 

 

image.png.f3dd6f501938af9582f1942465a3a0a2.png

 

 

Or a skeleton bucket?

image.png.4b1390cb78b8b53bebcb7f41b5c3dffb.png

image.png.b35148783183dbbf62bae7e3dc4a15c1.png

 

I'm leaning towards trying the skeleton bucket. My only concern is that since it's open on the bottom it won't hold the manure for very long distances. 

Anybody else have any advice? 

 

 

I use the heck out of the skeleton bucket on my skidsteer.  Perfect for separating rocks from fill, etc.  I think it would work great.  If you have a little dump trailer or something you can move around with a utility vehicle or truck, that seems like it would be a great setup.  Plus, you could move the manure to a different area to compost.  

Where are you located?  I bought mine from this guy.  Out in Marble Falls.  I've had it about three years and no issues.

https://idigtexas.com/product-category/skid-steer-attachments/rock-buckets/

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