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My 2013 F150 4x4 is going to need new shocks soon.  I'm thinking of getting a leveling/lift kit.  What are the pros and cons?  Most of my off road driving is on central Texas ranch land (limestone) but my in-laws have land near Paris so that is former Sulfur River bottom land so that gets to be deep mud.  Would also use at the Padre Island.  Never gotten stuck with the factory suspension* but if I have to replace I should consider the upgrade.

Already have 33" LT load range E tires and I have a paid sabbatical next year that I might go back country or beach camping the whole time.  Also interested in the Hidden Falls ORV park though not going to do rock crawling.

I've changed out my wheels since this pic.

*got pretty damn close on a few duck hunting trips

Edited by TexasEd

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What about yoko geo?
also I can’t find any good answers on what’s different between cooper and mastercraft.  Compound must be different for the price difference, yeah?  Or is the cooper name really worth an extra $30 per tire?
Just get the Falkens. They are great tires.

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On 6/19/2020 at 6:57 PM, Pato del Muerto said:

What about yoko geo?

also I can’t find any good answers on what’s different between cooper and mastercraft.  Compound must be different for the price difference, yeah?  Or is the cooper name really worth an extra $30 per tire?

I have Yokohama Geolandar G015 LT/AT and love them.  They last long but have a better compound than some of the harder tires and perform better on wet roads.  Also a lot quieter.

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5 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

I have Yokohama Geolandar G015 LT/AT and love them.  They last long but have a better compound than some of the harder tires and perform better on wet roads.  Also a lot quieter.

i had the same tire a couple of times on past f150's, great tire. 

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20170417_081252.thumb.jpg.003e034ce51260397a9aebd84517226a.jpg
My 2013 F150 4x4 is going to need new shocks soon.  I'm thinking of getting a leveling/lift kit.  What are the pros and cons?  Most of my off road driving is on central Texas ranch land (limestone) but my in-laws have land near Paris so that is former Sulfur River bottom land so that gets to be deep mud.  Would also use at the Padre Island.  Never gotten stuck with the factory suspension* but if I have to replace I should consider the upgrade.
Already have 33" LT load range E tires and I have a paid sabbatical next year that I might go back country or beach camping the whole time.  Also interested in the Hidden Falls ORV park though not going to do rock crawling.
I've changed out my wheels since this pic.
*got pretty damn close on a few duck hunting trips
My 2012 FX4 has Bilsteins all around. Big fan. They lifted truck about an inch. There are 2 to 3 settings on them, so you can go up or down an inch or two. No need for a level. Add bigger tires, probably gain another 1/2 inch.

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My 2012 FX4 has Bilsteins all around. Big fan. They lifted truck about an inch. There are 2 to 3 settings on them, so you can go up or down an inch or two. No need for a level. Add bigger tires, probably gain another 1/2 inch.
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Anyone dealt with the timing chain issues on the Fords? Apparently, it’s time to check that off the list of shit to go wrong with these two. Officially have 60,010 miles on it and it started the dreaded rattle at startup this week. The Expedition is also doing it if it sits for more than a couple days.

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6 hours ago, ousuxndallas said:
20 hours ago, TexasEd said:
20170417_081252.thumb.jpg.003e034ce51260397a9aebd84517226a.jpg
My 2013 F150 4x4 is going to need new shocks soon.  I'm thinking of getting a leveling/lift kit.  What are the pros and cons?  Most of my off road driving is on central Texas ranch land (limestone) but my in-laws have land near Paris so that is former Sulfur River bottom land so that gets to be deep mud.  Would also use at the Padre Island.  Never gotten stuck with the factory suspension* but if I have to replace I should consider the upgrade.
Already have 33" LT load range E tires and I have a paid sabbatical next year that I might go back country or beach camping the whole time.  Also interested in the Hidden Falls ORV park though not going to do rock crawling.
I've changed out my wheels since this pic.
*got pretty damn close on a few duck hunting trips

Read more  

My 2012 FX4 has Bilsteins all around. Big fan. They lifted truck about an inch. There are 2 to 3 settings on them, so you can go up or down an inch or two. No need for a level. Add bigger tires, probably gain another 1/2 inch.

Listen to this guy, he is pre-med. I had a set of bilsteins on my last truck. Set second to highest setting. Didnt change geometry like a block and were very good shocks. Would recommend them to anyone and the price is right.

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17 minutes ago, Brew said:

Anyone dealt with the timing chain issues on the Fords? Apparently, it’s time to check that off the list of shit to go wrong with these two. Officially have 60,010 miles on it and it started the dreaded rattle at startup this week. The Expedition is also doing it if it sits for more than a couple days.

Good luck on that. It is the tensioners from what I read and is a wild goose chase that will cost more than it is worth. I just ignored it on my last truck and traded it in at 100k. They have to replace chain, phasers? Whaateverthe fuck. Basically a bunch of money for essentially a noise.

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4 hours ago, Brew said:

Anyone dealt with the timing chain issues on the Fords? Apparently, it’s time to check that off the list of shit to go wrong with these two. Officially have 60,010 miles on it and it started the dreaded rattle at startup this week. The Expedition is also doing it if it sits for more than a couple days.

You must really hate GM. 

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13 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

You must really hate GM. 

Not originally, I had 4 straight GMC’s. Had issues with the last two although they were higher mileage before moving over to Ford. I am also definitely not a fan of the new body style. More importantly, one of my largest clients is a Ford/Dodge dealer also, so I went the Ford route over the Dodge. They have my order ready to submit for the ‘21 when it opens up, but it may be time to go the 2500 series route.

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I was just kidding, really.  You seem to keep low mileage current year vehicles, but also have had some issues with your 150’s iirc (hub/shaft grenading)   It’s never a bad time to step up to 2500 series.

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4 hours ago, Brew said:

Anyone dealt with the timing chain issues on the Fords? Apparently, it’s time to check that off the list of shit to go wrong with these two. Officially have 60,010 miles on it and it started the dreaded rattle at startup this week. The Expedition is also doing it if it sits for more than a couple days.

Yes, Under Warranty.  I have the 3.5L Eco

I took it in and they could not reproduce it even overnight so I took it home and the next morning made a video of the cold start for them to hear the tensioner adjustment.  If you get it done I think you need a new chain, the plastic tensioners and something else.

 

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8 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

I was just kidding, really.  You seem to keep low mileage current year vehicles, but also have had some issues with your 150’s iirc (hub/shaft grenading)   It’s never a bad time to step up to 2500 series.

I usually trade them at around 58k. Working with the dealer that’s been the sweet spot of getting the most out of them on trade where I’ve come out pretty well based on where I can buy them at. This one was supposed to get traded the same but I decided to wait on the ‘21. It’s been several weird things. On the ‘15 when it grenaded the front axle it was the first time Ford had seen it happen and they had to ship a replacement from the factory because none were on the market.

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Buddy that has a ‘13 iirc 150 has a hub that goes in and out while driving.  I knows he’s put a few parts in (I did) that he’d research and buy, but has never fixed it. I sent him one of your posts on it, and just got an “aww fuck” response. Still hasn’t blown up, but still makes a racket every now and then. It’s been his only issue though he’s only for like 50k miles in 8 years. 

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6 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

Buddy that has a ‘13 iirc 150 has a hub that goes in and out while driving.  I knows he’s put a few parts in (I did) that he’d research and buy, but has never fixed it. I sent him one of your posts on it, and just got an “aww fuck” response. Still hasn’t blown up, but still makes a racket every now and then. It’s been his only issue though he’s only for like 50k miles in 8 years. 

The axle was an issue on the ‘15. The hub that failed on this ‘17 turned out to be a vacuum issue. I don’t understand the mechanics of it as I come from the world of manually locking hubs, but when you let off the gas and coasted it would create a vacuum issue engaging the hub at highway speed. I limped it into the dealer instead of towing it which resulted in the hub needing to be replaced, but it was a simple vacuum leak that caused the failure. I put 25k-30k on them a year and still use 4wd and tow regularly.

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33 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Yes, Under Warranty.  I have the 3.5L Eco

I took it in and they could not reproduce it even overnight so I took it home and the next morning made a video of the cold start for them to hear the tensioner adjustment.  If you get it done I think you need a new chain, the plastic tensioners and something else.

 

Both vehicles have the 3.5. The Expedition sounds worse than my truck. It sounds like it’s coming apart. It sat for 2 weeks in May and started after that and now is doing it much more frequently.

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Buddy that has a ‘13 iirc 150 has a hub that goes in and out while driving.  I knows he’s put a few parts in (I did) that he’d research and buy, but has never fixed it. I sent him one of your posts on it, and just got an “aww fuck” response. Still hasn’t blown up, but still makes a racket every now and then. It’s been his only issue though he’s only for like 50k miles in 8 years. 
Hubs are pretty easy to change IMO getting them off is the biggest PIA I have found. Get a 14 ton 3 jaw puller and she'll come right off.

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1 hour ago, Mother mopar said:
9 hours ago, fattyflattie said:
Buddy that has a ‘13 iirc 150 has a hub that goes in and out while driving.  I knows he’s put a few parts in (I did) that he’d research and buy, but has never fixed it. I sent him one of your posts on it, and just got an “aww fuck” response. Still hasn’t blown up, but still makes a racket every now and then. It’s been his only issue though he’s only for like 50k miles in 8 years. 

Hubs are pretty easy to change IMO getting them off is the biggest PIA I have found. Get a 14 ton 3 jaw puller and she'll come right off.

Believe me, I’m getting close to a million miles between the 3 4x4 GM trucks I own. I can do the hub/bearing deal in my sleep at this point. 

My buddies problem is vacuum related. He will be driving down the road and his drivers side hub will decide to engage, then grind and sound funk, then disengage and not do it again for a month.  Been fighting it for a while, dealer could never replicate of course. I put a few parts on that he researched but it never fixed it. He just lives with it now until something breaks I guess. Been a pretty good truck otherwise.  But as stated, he’s put on in a miles what I’ve done in a year, so, lightly used. 

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

Believe me, I’m getting close to a million miles between the 3 4x4 GM trucks I own. I can do the hub/bearing deal in my sleep at this point. 

My buddies problem is vacuum related. He will be driving down the road and his drivers side hub will decide to engage, then grind and sound funk, then disengage and not do it again for a month.  Been fighting it for a while, dealer could never replicate of course. I put a few parts on that he researched but it never fixed it. He just lives with it now until something breaks I guess. Been a pretty good truck otherwise.  But as stated, he’s put on in a miles what I’ve done in a year, so, lightly used. 

You may have seen this, but if not there is some good information here. I got curious how the system actually works. Get out of truck, turn handle on hub, get back in truck was a much simpler system.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/836438-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-the-iwe-system-and-then-some.html

Edited by Brew

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The problem is that their normal position is locked, and the vacuum keeps them unlocked. Seems like a poor design to have the fail mode default to ON.

Lots of trucks these days just have permanently attached hubs/axles that are always turning, and will just have an actuator that will engage the transfer case to the output shaft on one side once the case itself is shifted to 4WD. I believe all IFS Toyotas are this way.

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Finally got around to installing a replacement bumper for the front end of my ride.  Also put on some new shocks to dampen the classic F350 rough ride.  The steering stabilizers to combat the death wobble were done a month or so ago. 

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How much did that BDS setup run you? I want to get them installed. Also read somewhere that adjusting the caster would help prevent the wobble and premature wear on the suspension.

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, HOOKEM4 said:

How much did that BDS setup run you? I want to get them installed. Also read somewhere that adjusting the caster would help prevent the wobble and premature wear on the suspension.

$1K

Regarding adjusting the caster, the guys I use (Master Hitch in Houston) swear up and down that the steering stabilizer set up is the only real and permanent way to remedy the death wobble.  These guys have never done me wrong.  I've got Discount Hitch that does all of the same type work right across the street from my warehouse and won't use them.  I drive all the way down to Bellaire to have work done by Master Hitch.

/csb

Edited by deadshank

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Not a knock on ford because others have been affected by the death wobble as well, but wtf. 75k for a truck and having to add another grand on your own to minimize a truly scary af driving experience.   Make the damn thing 76k and not have this issue ffs. 

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2 hours ago, deadshank said:

$1K

Regarding adjusting the caster, the guys I use (Master Hitch in Houston) swear up and down that the steering stabilizer set up is the only real and permanent way to remedy the death wobble.  These guys have never done me wrong.  I've got Discount Hitch that does all of the same type work right across the street from my warehouse and won't use them.  I drive all the way down to Bellaire to have work done by Master Hitch.

/csb

Yeah I read that doing both makes it bulletproof but I might just start with the stabilizer. I am 99% sure I can install it myself so it looks like it will be $500 or less.

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Here I was thinking the death wobble was only a Dodge Ram thing. Upgraded front steering linkage to a 3rd gen and added a bilstein stabilizer and have been problem free.

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48 minutes ago, HOOKEM4 said:

Yeah I read that doing both makes it bulletproof but I might just start with the stabilizer. I am 99% sure I can install it myself so it looks like it will be $500 or less.

Sounds like a should have called you!

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1 hour ago, fattyflattie said:

Not a knock on ford because others have been affected by the death wobble as well, but wtf. 75k for a truck and having to add another grand on your own to minimize a truly scary af driving experience.   Make the damn thing 76k and not have this issue ffs. 

No kidding.  Ford is whistling past the graveyard on this issue.

BTW, the Fox shocks have made a drastic improvement in the ride.  It's still not like floating on a cloud of titties but the edge has been taken off the rough ride.

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Posted (edited)

So the previous owner of mine put some rancho shocks on it, but no steering stabilizer. I’d like to put one on but between buying the thing and now a grand for new shoes it will have to wait a couple of months. 
if it’s really a bolt on piece, shouldn’t it only cost about an hour of labor?  A thousand total for a $500 piece means around 4 hours charged?

i also have to buy a tonneau cover before it starts snowing. 

Edited by Pato del Muerto

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Can we talk psi?  Shop gave me my f250 back with new shoes at 80 psi. Door sticker says 60 and 65.  I call them and he says the new 10 ply tires need the higher pressure. Thoughts?  Will be towing around 6k this weekend but in general most of the miles will not be towing or hauling.

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2 hours ago, Pato del Muerto said:

So the previous owner of mine put some rancho shocks on it, but no steering stabilizer. I’d like to put one on but between buying the thing and now a grand for new shoes it will have to wait a couple of months. 
if it’s really a bolt on piece, shouldn’t it only cost about an hour of labor?  A thousand total for a $500 piece means around 4 hours charged?

i also have to buy a tonneau cover before it starts snowing. 

Well they markup the part as well. And I would bet, based on videos, it will take me over 4 hrs. I am a very handy guy and do 99% of my own work on anything I can possibly do just to say I did it. I dont think 1k is an unreasonable amount of money to pay a shop for that work.

For me it isn't about the money, it is about the experience. I like doing shit like this if I can.

I just finished tearing down my ranch mule to clean the intake, adjust the valves, replace the drive belt, etc. The thing went from running like shit to better than factory and it was fun. 

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I run 50 psi on the front 40 on the rear during normal driving. 60psi all around when towing. Have 23K on the tires and wear pattern is perfect. For reference this is a 07 dodge Ram Cummins 2500 4x4.

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Buy tire chalk. Do chalk test until you get your ideal PSI.


Pro tip - store your tire chalk in the mattress scale. You can review your year over year tire chalk mass loss.

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65 at all 4 corners here. 75 in rears if towing anything bigger than the boat. GMC 2500 Dmax.  Have had perfect wear with nittos and KO2s. Ride gets bumpy af over 65 tho.  The last 3/4” or so doesn’t have the same contact on the rears but they wear evenly somehow. 

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New F-150 has a hybrid option with 700 mile range, onboard generator power, hands free driving, OTA updates. No real powertrain details yet.

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13 hours ago, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

That’s pretty slick looking.

Ya that’s the limited. 70k should look pretty slick. I’m surprised they didn’t do more of a dramatic change. 

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Ya that’s the limited. 70k should look pretty slick. I’m surprised they didn’t do more of a dramatic change. 

Probably a good thing to not have a polarizing alt energy vehicle like all the others on the market.

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Ordered my F250 a few weeks ago, received the VIN already. Getting excited. King Ranch Tremor. Looking forward to the increased payload vs the F150.

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What’s the consensus for diesel mechanics in the Austin area - anywhere will do but west/Southwest Travis county would be easier. This old truck (2000 350 7.3L) will need some TLC...

 

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brake work, maybe some alignment issues, need a new tuner and a known oil leak at the turbo connection. Some repairs are DIY like the power seat motor. Anyway, need a no nonsense mechanic I can partner with to take care of this one. 280,000 miles and at this point I plan to own this til 450,000 or more and I’ll gladly spend money to keep it going strong. So plenty to make off me but nothing to be made if I’m being led wrong.

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