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22 hours ago, BHMCruiser said:

Then I am duly chastised and will cease dumping on it

Yeah, we had this argument back in 2021 when I was headed to Naples, having previously been in 2018.  I told you then you were way off.  

I mean, sorry but the food is awesome, the city is steeped in history, and some of the views are absolutely amazing.  

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On 7/29/2023 at 12:14 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Yeah, we had this argument back in 2021 when I was headed to Naples, having previously been in 2018.  I told you then you were way off.  

I mean, sorry but the food is awesome, the city is steeped in history, and some of the views are absolutely amazing.  

I have memory issues and I forgot you were on retainer for the Naples Tourism Board. 

and I do want to back to the museo nazionale

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On 7/5/2023 at 5:39 PM, South Austin said:

Even a smaller place like Cinque Terre that used to be quieter before guys like Rick Steves started telling everyone how great it was are now so crowded that they're much less enjoyable. 

I've been to Cinque Terre twice, in June 2011 and July 2017, and really enjoyed it both times. It was peak summer on both occasions and there were definitely crowds during the day, but it was still nothing compared to crowds encountered in European cities. I can tolerate crowds much easier in a small coastal town when my day is spent on the beach or hiking. 

I also stayed multiple nights on both occasions, and found that the crowds thinned out significantly in the late afternoon when a lot of the day trippers returned to wherever they came from. If you only visit for a day, you're kind of depriving yourself of the better side of it.

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19 hours ago, wild_turkey said:

I've been to Cinque Terre twice, in June 2011 and July 2017, and really enjoyed it both times. It was peak summer on both occasions and there were definitely crowds during the day, but it was still nothing compared to crowds encountered in European cities. I can tolerate crowds much easier in a small coastal town when my day is spent on the beach or hiking. 

I also stayed multiple nights on both occasions, and found that the crowds thinned out significantly in the late afternoon when a lot of the day trippers returned to wherever they came from. If you only visit for a day, you're kind of depriving yourself of the better side of it.

Just back from Cinque Terre area - stayed south at Porto Venere cause they've got a pretty good hotel and a good marina for getting in and out on -  and took boat around to the cities.  Very crowded during the day,  but thinned out at night as described.  First time there,  enjoyed it,  but it's pretty crowded at the moment.   Also headed up to Bolzano which was great especially above it, up in the Mtns - great hikes, cool tiny little towns.  

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1 minute ago, South Austin said:

One outstanding thing I remember about Cinque Terra were the sardines, so fresh and delicious. I ordered some as an appetizer whenever I could.

Absolutely the best. The cuttlefish ink seafood pasta we had at Trattoria Billy is the best plate of pasta I've ever had. 

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2 hours ago, TheAuditor said:

Just back from Cinque Terre area - stayed south at Porto Venere cause they've got a pretty good hotel and a good marina for getting in and out on -  and took boat around to the cities.  Very crowded during the day,  but thinned out at night as described.  First time there,  enjoyed it,  but it's pretty crowded at the moment.   Also headed up to Bolzano which was great especially above it, up in the Mtns - great hikes, cool tiny little towns.  

This is exactly what I did in 2018.  It was great.  

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On 8/5/2023 at 2:40 PM, Ted Lange said:

Anyone have a Sorrento recommendations?  Think we are gonna train over from Naples for an afternoon & evening. 

Met a tour guide at a local coffee shop that took us all over the area. Still communicate with him via WhatsApp. Here's his instagram;  https://www.instagram.com/luigidaytour/ He'll take you wherever you want to go, or recommend areas. We hired him for 2 full days. WhatsApp # 39 333 221 8812 - Luigi Martino. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, this was the summer of our discontent.  With the miserable heat bearing down on us, not having gone to the beach in Italy pretty much pissed everyone off.  My son even sent me an aerial view of our usual beach saying, "we need to go here next summer".  Yes, Oregon was amazing... loved it... but there's something about sitting on the beach and getting into a summer rhythm.

So... three week trip booked for next summer.  Plan is to hit up Rimini half of the time since that's "our" beach town.  We always rent the same apartment... we know the neighborhood, the local restaurants, the shops, the people who operate the lido near us.  Its comfortable and its fun. 

The rest of the time we will either:

1) spend a week in Riva del Garda - I kind of like this idea but my wife doesn't. We did it another time and I really enjoyed it and you can't beat being in the mountains but I'm 50/50 on it.  If not Riva del Garda, then slightly south of Malcesine.

2) spend a week in Puglia in Mattinata.  Been before.  Cheap, great food, chill vibe... but about 6 hours from the Bologna airport.  

3) spend a week in Numana or Sirolo.  Spent a day there last summer on a little boat trip and I loved it.  It would be cool to check it out for a week.  Gorgeous scenery, great food and wine, water is really really nice

4) spend a week in Sperlonga. I love the town for nostalgic reasons and its a great area... but its not logical.  I'd love to go back for the first time in 20 years but I'm thinking it would be a PITA

We drive everywhere so I have to use that lens.  Right now leaning towards option 3, 2, 1 or 4 in that order unless I think of another beach/lake town.  Also will most likely mix in a couple of nights somewhere even while we have a base in Rimini.  Last summer we stayed here for two nights... https://relaismevigo.it/en/

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1 hour ago, texasdago said:

Well, this was the summer of our discontent.  With the miserable heat bearing down on us, not having gone to the beach in Italy pretty much pissed everyone off.  My son even sent me an aerial view of our usual beach saying, "we need to go here next summer".  Yes, Oregon was amazing... loved it... but there's something about sitting on the beach and getting into a summer rhythm.

So... three week trip booked for next summer.  Plan is to hit up Rimini half of the time since that's "our" beach town.  We always rent the same apartment... we know the neighborhood, the local restaurants, the shops, the people who operate the lido near us.  Its comfortable and its fun. 

The rest of the time we will either:

1) spend a week in Riva del Garda - I kind of like this idea but my wife doesn't. We did it another time and I really enjoyed it and you can't beat being in the mountains but I'm 50/50 on it.  If not Riva del Garda, then slightly south of Malcesine.

2) spend a week in Puglia in Mattinata.  Been before.  Cheap, great food, chill vibe... but about 6 hours from the Bologna airport.  

3) spend a week in Numana or Sirolo.  Spent a day there last summer on a little boat trip and I loved it.  It would be cool to check it out for a week.  Gorgeous scenery, great food and wine, water is really really nice

4) spend a week in Sperlonga. I love the town for nostalgic reasons and its a great area... but its not logical.  I'd love to go back for the first time in 20 years but I'm thinking it would be a PITA

We drive everywhere so I have to use that lens.  Right now leaning towards option 3, 2, 1 or 4 in that order unless I think of another beach/lake town.  Also will most likely mix in a couple of nights somewhere even while we have a base in Rimini.  Last summer we stayed here for two nights... https://relaismevigo.it/en/

So sounds like you're mainly looking at beaches, but for me, my second spot would be somewhere up north of Garda in the Dolomites.  I've been to Ortisei twice and love it.  Obviously you know far more about it than me.

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1 minute ago, Biff Tannen said:

So sounds like you're mainly looking at beaches, but for me, my second spot would be somewhere up north of Garda in the Dolomites.  I've been to Ortisei twice and love it.  Obviously you know far more about it than me.

We last went to Ortisei (based in Selva) in 2014.  Its so beautiful there.  The two cable car ride up to Seceda is one of my favorite views in the Dolomiti.  Hmmm... I would be willing to do that.  Would need a place with a pool and a spa to be able to sell that idea to my wife.

Looking down towards Ortisei.

IMG_9762.JPG

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14 hours ago, bonnieblue said:

Go kitesurfing in Riva

Last time we were there that wind was something else.  There is a hike that starts in Riva del Garda and goes up through an old tunnel/road system and from up above you can see the races that take place on the regular... sailboats, windsurfing, etc.  Wind can really get going.

Right now the leading alternative destination looks like this... too early to book

Numana – La Spiaggiola e la Caletta delle Tartarughe – © Sauro Strappato

75_spiaggia-dei-frati-3.jpg

Incidentally, here is a good list of typical foods from the area - https://agenziahumana.com/en/food-and-wine/ - this does a great job of illustrating that the "Italian food" we are exposed to here is a miniscule fraction of what Italy has to offer.  Consider these are typical foods from this little corner of Le Marche.  Another list... https://www.rivieradelconero.info/en/made-in-conero/typical-dishes/

Geographic perspective...

image.thumb.png.196d2d585ae07754d410ffd8df15f32d.png

 

 

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1 hour ago, texasdago said:

Last time we were there that wind was something else.  There is a hike that starts in Riva del Garda and goes up through an old tunnel/road system and from up above you can see the races that take place on the regular... sailboats, windsurfing, etc.  Wind can really get going.

Yep. Here’s some pics from the west side of Lake Garda. 
 

 

IMG_4759.jpeg

IMG_4761.jpeg

IMG_4754.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

Looks like car rental rates are starting to settle down a bit.  Found a rate with Hertz flying in/out of Bologna for about 270 Euro base rate for a week... that's for a five passenger/five bag mid-size SUV.  Three weeks plus all the absurd fees (facility charge, taxes, etc) came out to 1300ish Euro which is what you might have paid for a week back when the rates were ridiculous.  

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2 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

I feel like this is just the new normal for Florence.

That would be a shame but we'll avoid Octobers in Florence until we hear otherwise because it was far too many people. October 2023 had ~twice the crowds of October 2022 per my better half. I was thinking it was pent-up demand following the pandemic but maybe it's also a combo of that and all the new remote workers taking advantage of what has been known as low season but still a great time to visit.

Also fwiw 2023 was a crappy year for most Italian olive regions - very low quantity. However it was a good year for grapes. October is harvest time for olives in Tuscany. Unfortunately unadulterated Italian olive oil is going to be difficult to find next year.

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On 10/24/2023 at 6:03 PM, Chopper said:

That would be a shame but we'll avoid Octobers in Florence until we hear otherwise because it was far too many people. October 2023 had ~twice the crowds of October 2022 per my better half. I was thinking it was pent-up demand following the pandemic but maybe it's also a combo of that and all the new remote workers taking advantage of what has been known as low season but still a great time to visit.

Also fwiw 2023 was a crappy year for most Italian olive regions - very low quantity. However it was a good year for grapes. October is harvest time for olives in Tuscany. Unfortunately unadulterated Italian olive oil is going to be difficult to find next year.

Can confirm from first-hand reports of a friend of mine that went to visit family.  Said it was really crowded.  I think Rome is stuck in that mode now, as well.  Used to be you could go in the spring or winter months and it was "relatively" chill.  Sorry for my family in Rome but we just don't go back there.  They may be celebrating that, though.

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3 hours ago, texasdago said:

Can confirm from first-hand reports of a friend of mine that went to visit family.  Said it was really crowded.  I think Rome is stuck in that mode now, as well.  Used to be you could go in the spring or winter months and it was "relatively" chill.  Sorry for my family in Rome but we just don't go back there.  They may be celebrating that, though.

A friend of mine was visiting Rome with his family over the summer and said it was just a total crush. It was kind of driving his wife batty so he asked me what he should do and I told him to stop trying to visit every museum and tourist attraction and just try to hit some local neighborhood spots like Romans do and sent him to spend a day wandering around Trastevere. It really improved his experience. 

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4 hours ago, BHMCruiser said:

A friend of mine was visiting Rome with his family over the summer and said it was just a total crush. It was kind of driving his wife batty so he asked me what he should do and I told him to stop trying to visit every museum and tourist attraction and just try to hit some local neighborhood spots like Romans do and sent him to spend a day wandering around Trastevere. It really improved his experience. 

Those are always the best experiences.  I love small towns in Italy so much more.  It blows my mind how they always have the best people and hospitality and generally feel like the rest of the country, just smaller.  Contrast that with the small towns in the US...

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37 minutes ago, BHMCruiser said:

Well the thing about Rome is that it's a huge tourist destination surrounded by one of the world's great cities. It is far more enjoyable to experience as a city than as a big museum. 

Correct and the city is full of amazing sites and gems that are completely ignored by the masses... and that's where we spend our time.  As someone who has been to Rome over a dozen times to visit family, etc., I still haven't been to the Vatican Museums.  I'll live.  I still haven't been to Franklin, either.  

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20 minutes ago, texasdago said:

Correct and the city is full of amazing sites and gems that are completely ignored by the masses... and that's where we spend our time.  As someone who has been to Rome over a dozen times to visit family, etc., I still haven't been to the Vatican Museums.  I'll live.  I still haven't been to Franklin, either.  

Dude the Vatican museums are worth the hassle. Especially if you do a scavi tour and have a guide for the museum but otherwise I agree there's more to Rome than the usual stuff. 

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2 minutes ago, BHMCruiser said:

Dude the Vatican museums are worth the hassle. Especially if you do a scavi tour and have a guide for the museum but otherwise I agree there's more to Rome than the usual stuff. 

I know... one of these days... I've been to the museums in the Campidoglio and various other museums and galleries around town. Some of them are usually barren and filled with amazing works.  Also haven't done the Scavi tour but have been to the catacombs off of the Appian Way which used to be very quiet and they are quite extensive.  

2 minutes ago, Patricio Swayze said:

I found the capuchin chapel more interesting than the Vatican. But I am a morbid heathen. I did sneak photos of both the Sistine chapel ceiling and the capuchin ossuary.

Did you get shushed for talking in the capuchin chapel?

 

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2 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Thinking of doing a week in Tuscany and a week in Emilia Romagna next fall.  Not 100% sure.  Debating a lot of trips at the moment.  

Totally do it... where in Emilia Romagna and will you have a car?  Emilia Romagna like Tuscany is big and varied.  We'll be back in Emilia Romagna for 2 weeks next summer but primarily in Romagna so we'll be more around the coast with jaunts into the interior and probably Le Marche which is also strongly recommended.  Mind you, if you want suggestions, expect zero high end dining suggestions from me as that's not typical Italy to me... more along the lines of typical restaurants where Italians eat.

Three places I can recommend from personal experience in Emilia (if you have a car) 

https://www.opera02.it/ (near Castelvetro di Modena)

http://www.cabiancadellabbadessa.it/index.php/en/ (belongs to a friend - great B&B outside of Bologna)

https://relaismevigo.it/ (in the middle of the countryside - great restaurant)

 

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1 hour ago, texasdago said:

Totally do it... where in Emilia Romagna and will you have a car?  Emilia Romagna like Tuscany is big and varied.  We'll be back in Emilia Romagna for 2 weeks next summer but primarily in Romagna so we'll be more around the coast with jaunts into the interior and probably Le Marche which is also strongly recommended.  Mind you, if you want suggestions, expect zero high end dining suggestions from me as that's not typical Italy to me... more along the lines of typical restaurants where Italians eat.

Three places I can recommend from personal experience in Emilia (if you have a car) 

https://www.opera02.it/ (near Castelvetro di Modena)

http://www.cabiancadellabbadessa.it/index.php/en/ (belongs to a friend - great B&B outside of Bologna)

https://relaismevigo.it/ (in the middle of the countryside - great restaurant)

 

I love restaurants that are where regular Italians eat.  Was looking at the area surrounding Bolgna/Modena from a location there.

For Tuscany, Cortona, Siena, etc.. are the areas I am honing in on.  We would have a car the whole time.  I am trying to convince my parents to do this, and if so, my mom could be our DD (she isn't a wine drinker, so works for the rest of us).  

 

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46 minutes ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

I love restaurants that are where regular Italians eat.  Was looking at the area surrounding Bolgna/Modena from a location there.

For Tuscany, Cortona, Siena, etc.. are the areas I am honing in on.  We would have a car the whole time.  I am trying to convince my parents to do this, and if so, my mom could be our DD (she isn't a wine drinker, so works for the rest of us).  

 

The great thing is Bologna and Modena are close to each other and you are in the middle of culinary heaven and you don't have to spend a mint to enjoy it.   Modena and Reggio Emilia are not far and Ferrara is also an easy drive.

To me places like the following are not only perfect but really take me back in time to when I was a little kid.  Simple, delicious, not expensive...

https://trattoriasantacroce.it/ 

https://en.aziendalacasetta.it/ 

Chiosco ai Pini

Trattoria Bolognina

https://www.croara.com/

https://osterialavetta.it/

Can recommend any of those but honestly, there's a million of those kinds of places in the countryside of Emilia.  

 

 

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