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Colorado Vacation Destinations - Not Quite So Crowded, But Still Cool


Dbeasy

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  • 4 months later...

Starting to firm up our activities in June in and around Winter Park. One day we want to go to Rocky Mountain National Park, entering from the West side near Grand Lake City. We will have a pretty big group, with a range of hiking skills, from none to hard core, and everything in between. So, I'm kicking around the idea of finding a place where we could all congregate and hang out in the park, and then have groups of similar hikers branch off and do hikes that match their hiking skill. Non hikers could either hang at the meeting point, or maybe find a nice area to drive through, or go to a site that doesn't require hiking. Any thoughts about an area that might be convenient for this that is accessible from the West side of the park?

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On 3/19/2024 at 5:55 AM, Dbeasy said:

Starting to firm up our activities in June in and around Winter Park. One day we want to go to Rocky Mountain National Park, entering from the West side near Grand Lake City. We will have a pretty big group, with a range of hiking skills, from none to hard core, and everything in between. So, I'm kicking around the idea of finding a place where we could all congregate and hang out in the park, and then have groups of similar hikers branch off and do hikes that match their hiking skill. Non hikers could either hang at the meeting point, or maybe find a nice area to drive through, or go to a site that doesn't require hiking. Any thoughts about an area that might be convenient for this that is accessible from the West side of the park?

Did you answer your own question? GL has a lodge and attached small town and to rmnp. There's a music festival up there soon -- saw an ad -- which may present a complication. Maybe call the lodge and see what they can offer or advise?

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8 hours ago, Chopper said:

Did you answer your own question? GL has a lodge and attached small town and to rmnp. There's a music festival up there soon -- saw an ad -- which may present a complication. Maybe call the lodge and see what they can offer or advise?

I guess we could do that, but because there is timed entry to the park, I was thinking we’d want to keep coming back to an area in the park in between hikes. Otherwise, it would really be difficult to come back to during the day because you can’t leave and re-enter the park easily. It would be a pain, or maybe not even possible.  

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15 hours ago, Dbeasy said:

I guess we could do that, but because there is timed entry to the park, I was thinking we’d want to keep coming back to an area in the park in between hikes. Otherwise, it would really be difficult to come back to during the day because you can’t leave and re-enter the park easily. It would be a pain, or maybe not even possible.  

I've heard the timed entry is not a big deal at that gate. But the timed entry thing is very new all over rmnp. I think they even left it off that gate at the beginning 3ish years ago but implemented it later. You're right though I should've specifically mentioned as something to check with the Lodge or another tourist spot in town.

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I guess we could do that, but because there is timed entry to the park, I was thinking we’d want to keep coming back to an area in the park in between hikes. Otherwise, it would really be difficult to come back to during the day because you can’t leave and re-enter the park easily. It would be a pain, or maybe not even possible.  
No timed entry if you go in early. I think before 9am?
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7 hours ago, 6th Street said:

There is no timed entry at RMNP after 3p

 

1 hour ago, Chewbacca said:
On 3/20/2024 at 5:55 PM, Dbeasy said:
I guess we could do that, but because there is timed entry to the park, I was thinking we’d want to keep coming back to an area in the park in between hikes. Otherwise, it would really be difficult to come back to during the day because you can’t leave and re-enter the park easily. It would be a pain, or maybe not even possible.  

No timed entry if you go in early. I think before 9am?

Early is better than late if you are hiking.  Storms roll in at elevation in the afternoon and with them comes lightning.

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Early is better than late if you are hiking.  Storms roll in at elevation in the afternoon and with them comes lightning.
If you're hiking, I think you need reservations no matter the entry time. If you're just fucking around in the park, you don't.

But yes, don't be on tall peaks above tree line after 1 or so. People that hike 14ers are at the trailhead long before sunrise. Think 4-5am.
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In honor of last summer in Austin where it was hell on Earth, I am fleeing the Texas summer hell hole and spending the entire month of July in Pagosa Springs. I call it homework for if I want to move there for retirement in 3-4 years. We've been about 5 times (a week at a time) in the last 3 years, but this will be the longest stay. 

 

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13 hours ago, Chewbacca said:

If you're hiking, I think you need reservations no matter the entry time. If you're just fucking around in the park, you don't.

But yes, don't be on tall peaks above tree line after 1 or so. People that hike 14ers are at the trailhead long before sunrise. Think 4-5am.

good avice but a bit alarmist. i've hiked plenty of 14ers leaving the trailhead at 9am or later, you just have to be willing to turn around if weather rolls in. i've never started a hike before 7am because fuck that. 

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Pagosa veteran here.  We had a home there for a few years.  Never could have lived there full time.  Late fall/early winter sucks, late spring sucks.  Too muddy.  Too much snow.  200+ inches per year at our house.  All of our friends who are "full time" residents have places in Arizona/New Mexico/Mexico so they can be gone during those months.

Roads are horrible in Pagosa.  30+ years of poor decision making by Archuleta County.  Impossible to pave the roads.  Not enough asphalt in SW Colorado.  Impossible to keep them in good condition due to lack of material.  There is not enough material available that is cost effective.  They need more crushed stone quarries.  The ones that have tried, have been voted down by uniformed/don't care environmental hawks. 

Pagosa has always been more a boom/bust type small town.  A large ownership percentage is time/share.  Once upon a time there was great demand, now, not so much.  Look at the foreclosure list in the newspaper.  City/county government shoots itself in the foot every month.  They are absolutely against resort development(Hilton, Hyatt, Marriott, etc..) yet are also waging war against short term rentals.  They approved a 700 lot subdivision in town without really thinking thru the impact on existing infrastructure.  Had to readdress and effectively kill it post approval.  Well meaning people who are out of their depth.

If you are my age, 60's, and have adult children, they are going to be disappointed.  Pagosa is hard to get to from Texas.  Can drive, but any 25-30 year old that is working can't take the time to drive a full day, stay a couple of days and drive a full day back.  Same for flying.   Once you get to Durango, it is 1.5 hours to Pagosa.  Same thing.  Takes all day to arrive and a full day to get home.  + at least $1000 each for tickets, shuttle, etc...  Restaurants are limited and Wolf Creek is a full 45 minutes from town if there is any snow on the road.  

Positives:  Less expensive than other resort towns.  Beautiful scenery.  Great fly fishing, hiking, biking, etc...  New pickle ball complex. 27 holes of golf.   If sitting in hot sulphur water is your thing, Pagosa has you covered.  Generally nice people.  

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3 hours ago, crash_davis said:

In honor of last summer in Austin where it was hell on Earth, I am fleeing the Texas summer hell hole and spending the entire month of July in Pagosa Springs. I call it homework for if I want to move there for retirement in 3-4 years. We've been about 5 times (a week at a time) in the last 3 years, but this will be the longest stay. 

 

That sounds like a plan. I'm looking to bugout too. My girlfriend thinks "hot" weather is fun, but she's never experienced a Texas hell summer. Did you book something via AirBNB/VRBO?

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1 hour ago, rage-a-holic said:

That sounds like a plan. I'm looking to bugout too. My girlfriend thinks "hot" weather is fun, but she's never experienced a Texas hell summer. Did you book something via AirBNB/VRBO?

Yes, I looked at HomeAway/VRBO and AirBNB. Of the 2, AirBNB was the only one which offered a monthly discount, a decent one at that.

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3 hours ago, Gladeite said:

Pagosa veteran here.  We had a home there for a few years.  Never could have lived there full time.  Late fall/early winter sucks, late spring sucks.  Too muddy.  Too much snow.  200+ inches per year at our house.  All of our friends who are "full time" residents have places in Arizona/New Mexico/Mexico so they can be gone during those months.

Roads are horrible in Pagosa.  30+ years of poor decision making by Archuleta County.  Impossible to pave the roads.  Not enough asphalt in SW Colorado.  Impossible to keep them in good condition due to lack of material.  There is not enough material available that is cost effective.  They need more crushed stone quarries.  The ones that have tried, have been voted down by uniformed/don't care environmental hawks. 

Pagosa has always been more a boom/bust type small town.  A large ownership percentage is time/share.  Once upon a time there was great demand, now, not so much.  Look at the foreclosure list in the newspaper.  City/county government shoots itself in the foot every month.  They are absolutely against resort development(Hilton, Hyatt, Marriott, etc..) yet are also waging war against short term rentals.  They approved a 700 lot subdivision in town without really thinking thru the impact on existing infrastructure.  Had to readdress and effectively kill it post approval.  Well meaning people who are out of their depth.

If you are my age, 60's, and have adult children, they are going to be disappointed.  Pagosa is hard to get to from Texas.  Can drive, but any 25-30 year old that is working can't take the time to drive a full day, stay a couple of days and drive a full day back.  Same for flying.   Once you get to Durango, it is 1.5 hours to Pagosa.  Same thing.  Takes all day to arrive and a full day to get home.  + at least $1000 each for tickets, shuttle, etc...  Restaurants are limited and Wolf Creek is a full 45 minutes from town if there is any snow on the road.  

Positives:  Less expensive than other resort towns.  Beautiful scenery.  Great fly fishing, hiking, biking, etc...  New pickle ball complex. 27 holes of golf.   If sitting in hot sulphur water is your thing, Pagosa has you covered.  Generally nice people.  

Agreed that most of the roads outside of the main thoroughfares are all dirt/gravel. I'm OCD about keeping clean vehicles so all that dirt and mud will drive me nuts. The entire town shuts down no later than 9PM, basically. There are a few decent restaurants and one amazing restaurant but yeah the dining options are limited. The population is really old but the second highest population % right now are people under 18 so there is a youth movement in the town. Not much in the way of industry or employment. American and United have directs between Durango (DRO) and Dallas, Denver and Phoenix. The drive between Durango and PS is scenic and is easy straight shot.

I love the outdoors. PS and surrounding area has it abundance. What I love more is that it's mostly locals only. Not that many tourist visit there compared to other mountain towns in CO. I've been in many many hikes all throughout CO, many of them the more popular ones. I discovered I really enjoy beautiful hikes with hardly anyone on them. PS area has so many great hikes which fit this description. Plus I love to golf. The 27 golf course is a great course to play.

But yea, we'll see how the Mrs likes being that far from civilization. She's used to the amenities of central Austin, which a gazillion yoga studios and everything within a 5 mile radius. I'm thinking we'll downsize in Austin and buy a 2nd home in PS. 

PS real estate is just so much cheaper compared to the rest of CO. I just want to get the F away from Texas from May - Sep. PS fits the budget for us to retire early and save a little extra for the kids when we pass.

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Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, crash_davis said:

Yes, I looked at HomeAway/VRBO and AirBNB. Of the 2, AirBNB was the only one which offered a monthly discount, a decent one at that.

Was the property listed on both sites?  Usually they will have just forgotten to include the discounts/rates on both sites equally.

Also, a great site to compare pricing for the same prop on both sites:

https://hichee.com/

 

Edited by Biff Tannen
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Just now, Biff Tannen said:

Was the property listed on both sites?  Usually they will have just forgotten to include the discounts/rates on both sites equally.

Yes, it and others properties were on both with HomeAway/VRBO being more expensive on options on the ones that I compared.

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If you are OCD about mud, stay away May thru June. I could go to the car wash and still track 1/2 inch into garage.  About mid July, we would take flat point shovels and scrape out garage.  Same thing November and December.  
 

We love Meander and friends own Alley House. My wife could not take the lack of good grocery stores, muddy roads and no real yoga, Pilates, whatever classes.  Coupled with kids not coming, it was inevitable that we sell.  
 

 

 

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1 hour ago, billfromlaketravis said:

I’ve never been, but my Denver people say Ouray is bad ass. Not much to do, but the scenery is stunning. 

It’s really cool. A lot of Jeeple. Good hiking. Not great food. Mainly a summer town unless you are into ice climbing. But the triangle of Ouray, Ridgway, and Telluride gives you a bit of everything good about mountain towns.
 

 

 

But stay away. Nobody goes there anymore because it’s too crowded. Or something. 

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We've seriously considered moving to Crested Butte. We have 3 kids aged 7 through 12. We spend at least 2-3 weeks each summer--in 2021 we spent 9 weeks--and usually a week in the winter. Wife doesn't particularly care for the cold, which is a problem, but manageable.

We're outdoors people, and CB has it in abundance.  The school is quite good and has a surprising number of kids.  Amazon delivers and Gunnison is a 30 min drive for just about anything else, which includes a decent grocery store and a Walmart.  CB grocery store has been upgraded and is quite nice as well.

The thing we can't get over is April-May and Sept-Nov when there is fuckall to do. April and May are muddy as shit with the runoff, and folks we've met that have moved there say the Fall is heavily dependent in weather.  Early snows means more limited things to do outside. 

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In honor of last summer in Austin where it was hell on Earth, I am fleeing the Texas summer hell hole and spending the entire month of July in Pagosa Springs. I call it homework for if I want to move there for retirement in 3-4 years. We've been about 5 times (a week at a time) in the last 3 years, but this will be the longest stay. 
 
Pagosa is very cool, but when Durango is your big city 2 hours away, you're pretty isolated.
good avice but a bit alarmist. i've hiked plenty of 14ers leaving the trailhead at 9am or later, you just have to be willing to turn around if weather rolls in. i've never started a hike before 7am because fuck that. 
Depends on the peak, for sure. But don't be the guy getting struck by lightning because you left late.
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1 hour ago, Wiler77 said:

We've seriously considered moving to Crested Butte. We have 3 kids aged 7 through 12. We spend at least 2-3 weeks each summer--in 2021 we spent 9 weeks--and usually a week in the winter. Wife doesn't particularly care for the cold, which is a problem, but manageable.

We're outdoors people, and CB has it in abundance.  The school is quite good and has a surprising number of kids.  Amazon delivers and Gunnison is a 30 min drive for just about anything else, which includes a decent grocery store and a Walmart.  CB grocery store has been upgraded and is quite nice as well.

The thing we can't get over is April-May and Sept-Nov when there is fuckall to do. April and May are muddy as shit with the runoff, and folks we've met that have moved there say the Fall is heavily dependent in weather.  Early snows means more limited things to do outside. 

You are correct. Crested Butte is beautiful but at the end of the day very much ebbs and flows with the peak seasons. Great place for a second home/vacation rental but not really for full time living. I think there's a small airport in Gunnison but you're so isolated and a 4 hour drive to Denver.

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Posted (edited)

We are doing our second summer up in Colorado, month of July.  We’re in Basalt this year, we were near there last year. Love that part of CO and HWY 82. Infrastructure is nice, but still isolated enough to be away from the weekend crowds. I’ve got two rivers to fly fish plus access to plenty of alpine streams at elevation. The public tennis courts in Aspen (20 mins away) have a club like feel that make us happy. I do like the occasional bougie afternoon in Aspen for over priced food and wine.  We have a good friend in hospitality up there so there is some access to existing relationships.

we’ve eyed pagosa, Durango, gunnison, crested butte as well but if we can keeping swinging the month in the RFV we probably aren’t going to look elsewhere. I think 30 mins west of telluride would be my second but damn that’s some isolated country. 

Edited by troph
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On 3/22/2024 at 1:06 PM, stc said:

good avice but a bit alarmist. i've hiked plenty of 14ers leaving the trailhead at 9am or later, you just have to be willing to turn around if weather rolls in. i've never started a hike before 7am because fuck that. 

If ensuring making a summit is important, you need to start early.  Not everyone views it that way.  I did when I was younger, but now I'm more in your camp.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Talked with one fly fishing company that it within an hour of Winter Park and they said at the end of June the fishing might be ok once the rivers have emptied a bit. But they don't do river float fly fishing, only stand and cast. We are interested in a float trip for half a day. Anyone recommend a decent fly fishing guide reachable within an hour of Winter Park?

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5 hours ago, Dbeasy said:

Talked with one fly fishing company that it within an hour of Winter Park and they said at the end of June the fishing might be ok once the rivers have emptied a bit. But they don't do river float fly fishing, only stand and cast. We are interested in a float trip for half a day. Anyone recommend a decent fly fishing guide reachable within an hour of Winter Park?

The Colorado is the only float-able river nearby.  You'll need someone who does that.  Try the Winter Park Flyfisher (that is in Fraser, but I digress).

 

https://fraserflyshop.com/ourrates/

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Posted (edited)

i was gonna put this in the safari thread haha...probably better here.

we visited the Wild Animal Sanctuary in Keenesburg today, right at an hour NE of Denver. i'd found it online last summer but we finally visited today...i was contemplating making it one of my charitable orgs this year and wanted to actually check it out. 100% privately funded.

it was pretty rad. way different and better than a zoo. every animal there is a rescue, and we saw pretty much everything - foxes, coyotes, wolves, lions, tigers, black bears, grizzlies, lynx, servals, snow leopards, mountain lions, panthers, jaguars, emus, ostrich, camels. Joe Exotic's 39 rescued tigers all live here now! 🐅 

the elevated walkway is a unique way to view them, they don't pay any attention to 'up' (did not know that 😮) so they are oblivious to your presence...which makes them all super chill and comfortable. the facilities are huge and fantastically designed, they all have big underground dens. in the winter about 25 bald eagles nest there.

i didn't take any pictures bc none of them would have turned out any good, a lot of flat, brown prairie shots with hidden animal shapes lol. but you still got a clear view of everything, some were hanging out right underneath you.

it's a 3 mile round trip hike with lots of rest stops and refreshment facilities. def need hats, sunscreen, binoculars (they give you a free monocular with ticket).

would recommend as something really different to do, especially if you have kids that love animals 👍

Edited by mchookem
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