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Went around the corner and the bottom is discolored but solid. I guess that's my high note for the evening.

 

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@Anastasis is the wood rotten or just discolored?  If it's rotten, then it will indeed suck.  If it's just discolored, you can spray it with a bleach / water mixture (or a mold / mildew treatment from Lowe's / HD) and cover it back up.  Do you think water is just getting in around the door itself, or do you see evidence of water intrusion around the jamb or under the threshold?

Also, what kind of exterior is around that door (siding / brick / stone / stucco) and does it have trim?  When there are thresholds involved or water appears to be getting in from areas other than the weatherstripping, I'm a big fan of removing a door completely and re-setting on a proper sill pan with a silicone back dam if exterior conditions allow it.  Even if you don't opt for an aluminum sill pan, a soft pan using a high-grade water barrier system (Dupont Flex Wrap is great) will provide a much better barrier than a threshold sitting on a foundation of plywood subfloor.  The ideal situation is exterior trim that can be removed and reinstalled which would allow you to remove the door completely, install a sill pan, the re-set the door and properly waterproof the sides and top.  If you have brick / stucco / stone it gets more complicated.

And, I agree with the above that, for retrofit applications, PVC trim is great for exterior use.  Also, make sure you use a very high grade 100% silicone (NP1, Dap Dynaflex) at the transitions, and pre-fill any screw holes with the same silicone before fastening. 

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11 minutes ago, Spaulding Smails said:

@Anastasis is the wood rotten or just discolored?  If it's rotten, then it will indeed suck.  If it's just discolored, you can spray it with a bleach / water mixture (or a mold / mildew treatment from Lowe's / HD) and cover it back up.  Do you think water is just getting in around the door itself, or do you see evidence of water intrusion around the jamb or under the threshold?

Also, what kind of exterior is around that door (siding / brick / stone / stucco) and does it have trim?  When there are thresholds involved or water appears to be getting in from areas other than the weatherstripping, I'm a big fan of removing a door completely and re-setting on a proper sill pan with a silicone back dam if exterior conditions allow it.  Even if you don't opt for an aluminum sill pan, a soft pan using a high-grade water barrier system (Dupont Flex Wrap is great) will provide a much better barrier than a threshold sitting on a foundation of plywood subfloor.  The ideal situation is exterior trim that can be removed and reinstalled which would allow you to remove the door completely, install a sill pan, the re-set the door and properly waterproof the sides and top.  If you have brick / stucco / stone it gets more complicated.

And, I agree with the above that, for retrofit applications, PVC trim is great for exterior use.  Also, make sure you use a very high grade 100% silicone (NP1, Dap Dynaflex) at the transitions, and pre-fill any screw holes with the same silicone before fastening. 

Paintable silicone !

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Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, Spaulding Smails said:

@Anastasis is the wood rotten or just discolored?  If it's rotten, then it will indeed suck.  If it's just discolored, you can spray it with a bleach / water mixture (or a mold / mildew treatment from Lowe's / HD) and cover it back up.  Do you think water is just getting in around the door itself, or do you see evidence of water intrusion around the jamb or under the threshold?

 

There is some rot set in towards the slab side on the picture I posted at the bottom of page 10.  The pic at top of this page does not have any obvious rot.  I reached around the other side and everything was very solid. 

This is the only area of the three doors that the brick molding was compromised.  My theory/hope is that the water got in through the compromised brick molding, which is not covered by the sill pan. 

29 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

The ideal situation is exterior trim that can be removed and reinstalled which would allow you to remove the door completely, install a sill pan, the re-set the door and properly waterproof the sides and top.  If you have brick / stucco / stone it gets more complicated.

Brick veneer. I will be removing and replacing the brick mold with PVC. I think that the sill pan is properly installed.  I think that one of the problems is that they caulked the front end of the aluminum threshold and covered the weep holes.  The sill pan is a suresill. I guess I will see after I pull one of the thresholds, but it does not appear to me that there is a drainage path. Below the threshold is just slab and a very small line of brick veneer "step out", and they caulked the place where the aluminum threshold meets the bricks.  It does not appear to me that there is a route for the second installation option below.

 

Capture.jpg

 

 

exterion-door-drain-detail.jpg

Edited by Anastasis

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If that bottom plate isn’t too far gone you can treat it with some wood hardener after it’s cleaned, before you do the rest of the work.  Some of the stuff works pretty well.  

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Posted (edited)
On 7/11/2019 at 9:54 PM, Judge Roybeanbag said:

If that bottom plate isn’t too far gone you can treat it with some wood hardener after it’s cleaned, before you do the rest of the work.  Some of the stuff works pretty well.  

Ended up taking this approach.

 

Used this product.  Shored up the bad areas with some wood shims. epoxied the hell out of it.  This shit was expensive @ $130 but a hell of a lot cheaper that trying to pull the bottom plate.  Given what all was going on at that corner it would have been a nightmare to try to replace. 

 

https://www.abatron.com/product-category/wood-restoration-maintenance/

 

Edited by Anastasis

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Did that brand seem to work well?  I used some cheaper minwax type stuff on a couple of areas once, it did what I needed it to, but it was a shed. I have a small area of subfloor to replace in a house, might use what you did to paint the joists and base where the rotted plywood was.  

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Oh, and the root problem in my opinion was that the sill pans were not installed correctly and the brick veneer under the sill area was too high. The worst door was installed with a backwards pitch to the sill pan so water would not drain out well.  They caulked the drain holes so there was no pitch and no air flow.  Once the rot opened up to allow water to infiltrate it just sat it the pan getting wicked up the frame rotting the shit out of it.  Had a very good handyman replace all the jambs and frames and brick mold and install new thresholds. I'm going to build a motherfucking roof over this patio. Wood rot can kiss my ass. 

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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Judge Roybeanbag said:

Did that brand seem to work well?  I used some cheaper minwax type stuff on a couple of areas once, it did what I needed it to, but it was a shed. I have a small area of subfloor to replace in a house, might use what you did to paint the joists and base where the rotted plywood was.  

The guy helping me insisted on it.  Said it was hands down the best. They sell the kit with both epoxies at clements at the Y in oak hill for $130. If you want only the hardening epoxy you are going to have to order through amazon. 

Edited by Anastasis

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Just now, Anastasis said:

The guy helping me insisted on it.  Said it was hands down the best. They sell the kit with both epoxies at clements at the Y in oak hill for $130. 

Sweet, thanks!  I may go that route instead of the cheaper stuff I got off amazon last time.  

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On 4/20/2019 at 12:16 PM, dad said:

Restored this lane cedar chest bought off Craigslist for my mother in law. Never doing one that started off painted again!

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Even if it was a pain, that was a very nice job you did, and it looks beautiful. I have a soft spot for those Lane chests: when I was a young girl, my grandmother and my mother each had the little sample ones that they give graduating seniors (in the hopes they will buy the real deal). They were much much too poor to afford the large ones, but they had kept their small ones and my grandmother kept spare handkerchiefs and little odds and ends in hers while my mom kept mementos in her own. When I received mine, I used it for a jewelry box since I don't wear much jewelry on a regular basis besides my wedding ring, a watch and if we are going out someplace nice, a necklace and earrings. When my mother passed away, I had to decide whether to keep the Lane chests or leave them behind and it was one of the hardest things I've ever done to let them go as they held so many memories of sitting with my grandmother or mom rummaging through the little Lane chests while I listened to stories.

 

 

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Speaking of cedar chests, we inherited one from my wife’s great aunt that had some sort of oak veneer glued to the outside.  It had peeled and chipped in spots, so a couple years ago I tried several times to strip the rest of it off, down to the bare cedar.  They must have used some sort of hide glue or something because I cannot get it loose in some spots.  I’ve tried a hot iron and wet rag, a couple other things and finally gave up.  Haven’t tried a heat gun yet.  Any suggestions how to do it without scarring the wood underneath?

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1 hour ago, Mrs Whiggins said:

Even if it was a pain, that was a very nice job you did, and it looks beautiful. I have a soft spot for those Lane chests: when I was a young girl, my grandmother and my mother each had the little sample ones that they give graduating seniors (in the hopes they will buy the real deal). They were much much too poor to afford the large ones, but they had kept their small ones and my grandmother kept spare handkerchiefs and little odds and ends in hers while my mom kept mementos in her own. When I received mine, I used it for a jewelry box since I don't wear much jewelry on a regular basis besides my wedding ring, a watch and if we are going out someplace nice, a necklace and earrings. When my mother passed away, I had to decide whether to keep the Lane chests or leave them behind and it was one of the hardest things I've ever done to let them go as they held so many memories of sitting with my grandmother or mom rummaging through the little Lane chests while I listened to stories.

 

 

Thank you! I can imagine it was hard to make that decision but nice that you can still hold on to them with just the thought of seeing one bringing those memories back. I had re-finished another chest previously to this and sold it. Afterwards she mentioned that she was sorry I sold it that she would have bought it off of me. I didn't know she was interested otherwise I would have just given it to her. Her her husband and she have helped my wife and I so much over the years that I had to go find another one to restore for her. I hope it brings back memories for her like it did for you :)

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Progressing my project to exterior repainting of the doors. Any recommendations on brand/paint and prep.  Gonna give them a light sanding, some latex primer, and then hit with SW exterior SuperPaint.  Any other options I should explore. 

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On 7/26/2019 at 4:59 PM, Judge Roybeanbag said:

Sweet, thanks!  I may go that route instead of the cheaper stuff I got off amazon last time.  

After seeing this stuff set up with a 48h cure, I can't imagine another product outperforming. I am not sure that the putty expoxy is essential if you are not doing exterior work.  I guess it wouldn' thurt, but for my application I dont see it adding anything in value. 

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we’re in the process of replacing blinds with plantation shutters. this has led to my worst nightmare, painting the interior walls before installation. i actually enjoy painting, but i’m starting with the living room this weekend, which has 20’ ceilings. this may well be the end for me. 

 

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8 minutes ago, joe dirt said:

but i’m starting with the living room this weekend, which has 20’ ceilings.

Some shit is just easier to outsource. 

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So, back to these gotdamn doors for a second. 

 

After rebuilding all the door frames, caulking and painting everything, still having water incursion. I think the water is still getting down into the threshold from just running down the doors when the rain drives, or through the opening that is intended to allow it to drain.   Root issue is that the sill pans are not well installed and just don't drain quick enough when we get a down pour like we had last night. Gonna have to build some sort of covering over the patio, but the roof lines don't really lend themselves to a straight forward patio covering because of a sun room off the side. I am thinking about getting a pergola built and having a topgal cover put on top, and just having them install the cover butted right up to the brick.

Thoughts?  It won't be totally water tight, but my thinking is that it will be enough to stop the driving rain from getting a straight shot at the doors.  I don't think that I like the idea of having it flashed in to the brick.  Seems like a half ass flashing involving cutting into the brick could be worse than what I am already dealing with, but maybe I need to talk through that with the contractors.

I'd be going for something like this.  Layout here is similar except the room protrusion on the left is 1.5 story, the open patio area in that picture is a covered sun room, and the patio door in that picture is set into a two story wall. Thinking is that I would build slightly higher and overhang the sun room and butt up against the walls with the windows on one side and the two doors in a U shape.

 

Bronze%20Topgal%20Meditteranean.jpg  

Edited by Anastasis

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Well, you DO get a NW facing direction from that wall & that's where the greater majority of our rains come from.

 

We could do that reglet / counterflash / headwall cut in & instead of a pergola, just go ahead & do a straight up patio roof, @ least 10' out for overall functionality (if not further).

 

I suggest a minimum 2:12 slope with a 1½" Snap Lock panel, galvalume or in color (your homeowner association may have requirements & that could even be more than the color, i.e. no metal).

 

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8 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

We could do that reglet / counterflash / headwall cut in & instead of a pergola, just go ahead & do a straight up patio roof, @ least 10' out for overall functionality (if not further).

If you are in the hood, shoot me a call and come by to take a look. You'll see quickly why a straight up patio roof doesn't appear to work.  Its the interface to the sun room roof that is problematic. But maybe you got some other ideas for how to pull that off. 

 

8 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

Well, you DO get a NW facing direction from that wall & that's where the greater majority of our rains come from.

Yep, the orientation is a huge part of the problem.  

 

8 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

We could do that reglet / counterflash / headwall cut in & instead of a pergola, just go ahead & do a straight up patio roof, @ least 10' out for overall functionality (if not further).

So you aren't concerned about flashing into the brick?

Edited by Anastasis

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2 hours ago, joe dirt said:

we’re in the process of replacing blinds with plantation shutters. this has led to my worst nightmare, painting the interior walls before installation. i actually enjoy painting, but i’m starting with the living room this weekend, which has 20’ ceilings. this may well be the end for me. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Some shit is just easier to outsource. 

Yup.  I painted about half the house myself a couple of years ago-- bedrooms, bathrooms, easy stuff.  But for the great room and staircase and entryway with 20' ceilings and stuff, I just paid the professionals.  Not worth my time and headaches.

Also, we too just had plantation shutters installed in about half the house, the original buyers only did the bottom floor and a little bit of the second story. I guess they ran out of money.  Now, apparently, it's my turn...

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On 10/25/2019 at 8:02 AM, Anastasis said:

Some shit is just easier to outsource. 

 

On 10/25/2019 at 10:44 AM, utee94 said:

 

Yup.  I painted about half the house myself a couple of years ago-- bedrooms, bathrooms, easy stuff.  But for the great room and staircase and entryway with 20' ceilings and stuff, I just paid the professionals.  Not worth my time and headaches.

Also, we too just had plantation shutters installed in about half the house, the original buyers only did the bottom floor and a little bit of the second story. I guess they ran out of money.  Now, apparently, it's my turn...

well y’all convinced me. i’ll be outsourcing said said giant walls. i did manage to knock out two rooms over the weekend though. it was liked therapy after that shitshow of a game saturday afternoon. 

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30 minutes ago, joe dirt said:

 

well y’all convinced me. i’ll be outsourcing said said giant walls. i did manage to knock out two rooms over the weekend though. it was liked therapy after that shitshow of a game saturday afternoon. 

I did everything except our living room. We have 24’ ceilings in living room. And since builders are cheap (not a custom home) ceiling was same color as walls, getting that to white was going to be a beating. By the time I looked up what it would cost for a scissor lift and some loooong extension poles, I found a guy that was like $350 more.  So I outsourced it, and hated it.  And now, realized that was without a doubt the correct call. Dude did a jam up job and even fixed some of my shit he noticed in the process.  
 

My current screw up is a doosie. We are having hardwood installed in 2 weeks. I don’t like the quarter round next to existing baseboard look, and more importantly our existing base boards are rather ornate. So depending on where it landed, the 1/4 round might end up on a radius needing to be filled with caulk etc. Half assed imo. So I talk wife into new baseboards to be installed after wood.  Going from ornate 4.5” to rather plain (think board with cove molding on top) 7.25”.   Flooring guy says he’ll remove it all for $150.  I said fuuuuuck that, I’ll do it after the horns game over a few beers. I’ll take my time and keep the wood in good shape, trim out the garage.  These fuckers installed this shit with 2.5” nails, and hit every damn stud and seal plate they could.  Holy shit. House is being held up by the base boards. And saving them, L. O. L.   Should have paid the $150, and finished my case of beer after the shit show in Fort Worth. Luckily, as hard as they are coming off, I haven’t punched thru but one or two places, and those will be covered by the 7.25”. But man, bad call. 
 

On 10/25/2019 at 10:44 AM, utee94 said:

the original buyers only did the bottom floor and a little bit of the second story. I guess they ran out of money. 

We did everything that faced the street. 2 kids rooms upstairs and 3 windows in my office.  Was close to ~4K iirc. I want to get the rest done at some point but oof, lots of windows and $$$. They are very nice and give it a really good look tho. 

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7 hours ago, fattyflattie said:

I did everything except our living room. We have 24’ ceilings in living room. And since builders are cheap (not a custom home) ceiling was same color as walls, getting that to white was going to be a beating. By the time I looked up what it would cost for a scissor lift and some loooong extension poles, I found a guy that was like $350 more.  So I outsourced it, and hated it.  And now, realized that was without a doubt the correct call. Dude did a jam up job and even fixed some of my shit he noticed in the process.  
 

My current screw up is a doosie. We are having hardwood installed in 2 weeks. I don’t like the quarter round next to existing baseboard look, and more importantly our existing base boards are rather ornate. So depending on where it landed, the 1/4 round might end up on a radius needing to be filled with caulk etc. Half assed imo. So I talk wife into new baseboards to be installed after wood.  Going from ornate 4.5” to rather plain (think board with cove molding on top) 7.25”.   Flooring guy says he’ll remove it all for $150.  I said fuuuuuck that, I’ll do it after the horns game over a few beers. I’ll take my time and keep the wood in good shape, trim out the garage.  These fuckers installed this shit with 2.5” nails, and hit every damn stud and seal plate they could.  Holy shit. House is being held up by the base boards. And saving them, L. O. L.   Should have paid the $150, and finished my case of beer after the shit show in Fort Worth. Luckily, as hard as they are coming off, I haven’t punched thru but one or two places, and those will be covered by the 7.25”. But man, bad call. 
 

We did everything that faced the street. 2 kids rooms upstairs and 3 windows in my office.  Was close to ~4K iirc. I want to get the rest done at some point but oof, lots of windows and $$$. They are very nice and give it a really good look tho. 

At our house, the original family did everything facing South, except the upstairs media room where they had blackout curtains.  Those were effective but looked crappy, and we don't use it as a media room, we have a pool table and foosball table up there instead, so no need for the blackout curtains.  So those all went to plantation shutters, plus 4 more upstairs windows on the North side that were a mish mash of curtains, drapes, and shades.  Now it's all uniform, looks so much better, and the shutters still do a good enough job of light control that you could probably use our game room as a media room again if you ever wanted to.

 

 

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Fireplace facelift this weekend in kids’ playroom.

Before
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After
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Next project is a mantle to go over the built-in brick mantle.

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Kmac that looks great. This year we are doing floors, next year the fireplace. The pic below is very similar to ours (same builder) and I think we are going to do something similar.

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I would do fireplace before floors. My other fireplace (living room) had oil based paint. I stripped that off last year when our house was being remodeled and didn’t have floors. Dirty stuff.

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1 hour ago, kmac30 said:

I would do fireplace before floors. My other fireplace (living room) had oil based paint. I stripped that off last year when our house was being remodeled and didn’t have floors. Dirty stuff.

Kids allergies are pushing the floors.   Current fireplace is just a tile hearth with ornamental wood mantle, basic. Shouldn’t be much to demobe. 

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I plan to year out my piece of shit builder grade mantle later this year. Can't wait to get rid of it.
What kind of material for the new one?

Pic of existing that you don't like?

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I'll take some this weekend if I remember. It's your standard builder grade MDF box with minimal trim work and mounted with a slight lean to one side. Gas fireplace surrounded by cheap ceramic 12x12's. It's embarrassing compared to the awesome one we had in our old house that was built in the 30's.

I'm going to pull all of that off and probably just do something minimalistic using some nice tile around the fireplace and a floating beam mantle.

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21 minutes ago, Okie State said:

I'll take some this weekend if I remember. It's your standard builder grade MDF box with minimal trim work and mounted with a slight lean to one side. Gas fireplace surrounded by cheap ceramic 12x12's. It's embarrassing compared to the awesome one we had in our old house that was built in the 30's.

I'm going to pull all of that off and probably just do something minimalistic using some nice tile around the fireplace and a floating beam mantle.

Floating beam ?  Like levitating above the floor ?  I wanna see the construction documents for one of those.

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a buddy of mines is a contractor so i talked to him about getting his painters out to do our living room. luckily they was workin an outside job and the rain meant they had an immediate opening. fuckers knocked the living room and stairwell out in 3 hours. well worth the expense just like y’all said.

we talked to them about painting our cabinets and the look on their faces was something. they was quite confused why we’d want to paint over 5yr old cabinets that still looked brand new. clearly they’re unaware the power pinterest has over madame dirt.

 

On 10/29/2019 at 2:14 PM, Okie State said:

I'll take some this weekend if I remember. It's your standard builder grade MDF box with minimal trim work and mounted with a slight lean to one side. Gas fireplace surrounded by cheap ceramic 12x12's. It's embarrassing compared to the awesome one we had in our old house that was built in the 30's.

I'm going to pull all of that off and probably just do something minimalistic using some nice tile around the fireplace and a floating beam mantle.

our mantle is chopped limestone that my wife wants me to rip out in favor of a beam. thing is our fireplace extends 20’ up the wall and i’m afraid that if i chisel out the mantle, the rest of it will crash down on me. maybe that’s her plan?

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On 10/27/2019 at 11:39 PM, fattyflattie said:

Should have paid the $150, and finished my case of beer after the shit show in Fort Worth. Luckily, as hard as they are coming off, I haven’t punched thru but one or two places, and those will be covered by the 7.25”. But man, bad call. 

Finished this today, and didn’t have any major punch throughs to fix, thank God.   Sometime this week I have to remove the half bath toilet and sink (pedestal) so that the dustless tile removal guys can come in and demo my tile this week.  
 

Another fail, I bought the flat scraper and was going to try and save 1$/ft^2 ($375), remove the tile and just let them take out the thin-set with the dustless equipment.  lol no.  Getting $375 dollar’d to death.   I better get a week in Rockport for this. 

Oh yeah we are going to paint the office before the floors and base comes in. Which shouldn’t be a huge deal and probably a lot easier now than later. Moving the gun safe and desk/credenza to the garage on the other hand...

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Curious, what is dustless tile removal running these days?  Getting ready to demo quite a bit at my place...

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26 minutes ago, fluff said:

Curious, what is dustless tile removal running these days?  Getting ready to demo quite a bit at my place...

That's where they perform a total cashectomy. They suck all your money as they suck all the dust.

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On 11/3/2019 at 6:16 PM, fattyflattie said:

Moving the gun safe and desk/credenza to the garage on the other hand...

Will the gun safe be going back to the office once the work is complete?

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23 hours ago, fluff said:

Curious, what is dustless tile removal running these days?  Getting ready to demo quite a bit at my place...

Curious about this as well.  We have saltillo, so I can't imagine the havoc of trying to get all the mortar/grout off the concrete without dustless equipment.

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23 minutes ago, Todd Gack said:

Curious about this as well.  We have saltillo, so I can't imagine the havoc of trying to get all the mortar/grout off the concrete without dustless equipment.

I have saltillo and it needs to go. Considering renting the house next door for the 6 months it would take me to do a reno and get rid of that stupid tile.

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On 11/4/2019 at 11:25 AM, fluff said:

Curious, what is dustless tile removal running these days?  Getting ready to demo quite a bit at my place...

There was 2 prominent guys in Houston, one tool appears to be more thorough than the other. It is 3.50/ft with $150 flat disposal fee.  They charge 2.50/ft for just the thinset is you take up the tile. 
The other outfit was a bit cheaper, maybe 2.50/ft off the top of my head but their tool doesn’t seem as dustless per YouTube research.   

So it’s not cheap. But hundreds of pounds of silica dust all over the house, I think it will be worth it.  I’ve talked to people who’ve had dust inside their cabinets etc.  Fuck that. I’ll report back on how it comes out. 
 

39 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

Will the gun safe be going back to the office once the work is complete?

Yes. 
 

27 minutes ago, Todd Gack said:

We have saltillo, so I can't imagine the havoc of trying to get all the mortar/grout off the concrete without dustless equipment.

Saltillo is more than ceramic, they asked that first question. I don’t know how much more. 

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