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The Italy Thread


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  • 4 weeks later...

All transportation within Italy has now been booked with the exception of a short train ride from Treviso the Venice to tour Burano.  Three rental cars, three train rides and two private transfers.  Now to start working on restaurant reservations and clawing miles back from Jet Blue for my return flight from JFK because they moved my flight home from JFK to when I'm still in the air flying back from Milan.

I'm wishing a little bit that we have one less stop but we discussed it and we really want to hit our favorite vineyards in Tuscany and Piedmonte.

The trip is two nights in Treviso, three nights in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Dolomites), five nights in Bologna, two nights in Greve in Chianti and four nights in Serralunga d'Alba.

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We just got back on Sunday from a two week trip. Hit up Milan, Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Florence, and Rome. It was a really good trip and I’ll be posting some photos in the photo thread. I let my wife plan it as it was her dream trip (she is Italian-Brazilian). There are some things I would have done differently. I just can’t handle the massive crowds of tourists. Just overrun everywhere (and we added to the problem). Sometimes it can’t be avoided because there are things you shouldn’t skip, even for me as a non religious person. By the end of the trip I was cussing out tourists in Portuguese because so many people are oblivious about their surroundings and just stop in the middle of sidewalks and roads making it even worse. Had several really good meals but since we had our young daughters with us we it was sometimes hard to find really amazing places that had food they would eat.

In the future I would like to go back and see the southern part of the country. I think I would like it more. I think I enjoyed Spain a bit more.

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2 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

I will never go in the summer again.  Shoulder season only.

That sounds like a good idea.  However, I would have missed this:

I didn't realize that the second day in Florence would be the celebration of St. Giovanni and the championshipp calcio storico game.  If you are unfamiliar with the sport, watch the first episode of Netflix´s "Home Game".  Anyways, Our hotel was right on the piazza where the parade passed through on its way to where the game would be played.  I was exhausted from walking all day, but I got my shoes on and went down and grabbed a few shots.  I wish I knew at the time what was going on because I would have focused more on the players and former players.  Anyways, the parade ended and I went to where the game was being played.  I didn't have a ticket and sales had ended.  I stood at the barricade a block away where several police officers were as well as event security who were checking tickets and letting people in (there was a lot of wetting the hand going on).  The event staff was young, and I asked one guy if he spoke English...no.  Portuguese? No.  Spanish?  Some...ok.  I asked where the players would be exiting as I figured some shots of bloody faces would be compelling.  He told me where to go but I just stayed put as the game was still ongoing.  Eventually I asked him how much longer and he said the game would end in about 20 minutes.  About ten minutes later he comes over to me and asks if I want to go watch.  Hell yeah I do, he told the girl controlling the barricade to let me through and I ran up to the bleachers.  It was packed, standing room only.  I had to raised my camera about my head and snap off some very boring photos before the crowd behind me got annoyed that I was blocking their view.  I put my camera away and stood on my tippy toes to see the action.  Got to see several full on bare knuckle fights break out.  The crowd was going crazy.  I decided to leave before it ended as it might get a bit crazy.  I was just stoked to have seen some of the game.  The Rossi won.

Here are the shots of the parade and one from the game.

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22 hours ago, Patricio Swayze said:

We just got back on Sunday from a two week trip. Hit up Milan, Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Florence, and Rome. It was a really good trip and I’ll be posting some photos in the photo thread. I let my wife plan it as it was her dream trip (she is Italian-Brazilian). There are some things I would have done differently. I just can’t handle the massive crowds of tourists. Just overrun everywhere (and we added to the problem). Sometimes it can’t be avoided because there are things you shouldn’t skip, even for me as a non religious person. By the end of the trip I was cussing out tourists in Portuguese because so many people are oblivious about their surroundings and just stop in the middle of sidewalks and roads making it even worse. Had several really good meals but since we had our young daughters with us we it was sometimes hard to find really amazing places that had food they would eat.

In the future I would like to go back and see the southern part of the country. I think I would like it more. I think I enjoyed Spain a bit more.

We were in Florence and Milan a few weeks ago. Jam packed with stupid oblivious people. I generally just found a small bar and let my girlfriend enjoy wandering through all that shit.

 

florence 3.jpg

florence 2.jpg

florence 1.jpg

milan 2.jpeg

milan 1.jpeg

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1 hour ago, rage-a-holic said:

We were in Florence and Milan a few weeks ago. Jam packed with stupid oblivious people. I generally just found a small bar and let my girlfriend enjoy wandering through all that shit.

 

 

florence 2.jpg

milan 2.jpeg

 

My wife fell off that carousel, after realizing she hadn't paid to get on it.

Where is that 2nd pic?

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On 7/4/2023 at 4:28 PM, Patricio Swayze said:

I just can’t handle the massive crowds of tourists.

I've been to Italy twice, in 2004 (wedding was in a tiny town on the Amalfi Coast) and 2014 (return for the 10-year anniversary).  I love the country and will go back.  But I'm probably steering clear of Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, the Amalfi Coast, and Cinque Terra for the reason you state.  Even a smaller place like Cinque Terre that used to be quieter before guys like Rick Steves started telling everyone how great it was are now so crowded that they're much less enjoyable. 

I'll visit smaller towns in the Piedmont, maybe go back to Barolo.  I'd like to visit areas in the South, but I really dig the North/Central part of the country, and heading toward the foot seems like it would be tough to make in one trip.

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On 7/5/2023 at 5:39 PM, South Austin said:

Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, the Amalfi Coast, and Cinque Terra for the reason you state.

I love Rome... have family there.  Its rare that I visit... when I do, I visit parts of Rome that are not overrun.  There's actually areas right in the centro storico that are not overwhelmed with tourists.  BUT, for the most part, we just pass on Rome.  Family lives in areas that are more local so we don't have to deal with the masses.  The other locations?  Agreed.  Honestly, never been to Amalfi, Cinque Terre for the reasons you state.  Don't need to deal with the crowds and the prices.  I also know I can get amazing experiences in other parts of Lazio, Puglia, Tuscany (no... not in the parts of Tuscany where everyone else is), etc.  Meanwhile, anytime I talk to someone who is going to Italy for the first time goes... where do they go?  Yeah... the places you mentioned.  Add Lake Como to that mix because Clooney.

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14 minutes ago, texasdago said:

Honestly, never been to Amalfi, Cinque Terre for the reasons you state. 

That's unfortunate.  If it were possible to get into a Delorean and go to those places sometime before 2000 or so, you'd probably have a great time.  But the advent of travel shows and blogs for the most part blew the roof off of places like Amalfi and Cinque Terre.

When we were in Cinque Terre in 2004, we stayed in Manarola, toward the south end, and it wasn't that bad.  But venture to the other towns like Vernazzs and Monterosso where it felt like Spring Break at Daytona at times.  Turned out to be the least enjoyable part of that trip.  Fucking great seafood, though. 

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1 hour ago, South Austin said:

That's unfortunate.  If it were possible to get into a Delorean and go to those places sometime before 2000 or so, you'd probably have a great time.  But the advent of travel shows and blogs for the most part blew the roof off of places like Amalfi and Cinque Terre.

When we were in Cinque Terre in 2004, we stayed in Manarola, toward the south end, and it wasn't that bad.  But venture to the other towns like Vernazzs and Monterosso where it felt like Spring Break at Daytona at times.  Turned out to be the least enjoyable part of that trip.  Fucking great seafood, though. 

Manarola was my favorite of the five towns.  But we actually stayed in Porto Venere and took the ferry to the towns during the day.  Porto Venere was great and not nearly as overrun with tourists.

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4 hours ago, South Austin said:

That's unfortunate.  If it were possible to get into a Delorean and go to those places sometime before 2000 or so, you'd probably have a great time.  But the advent of travel shows and blogs for the most part blew the roof off of places like Amalfi and Cinque Terre.

When we were in Cinque Terre in 2004, we stayed in Manarola, toward the south end, and it wasn't that bad.  But venture to the other towns like Vernazzs and Monterosso where it felt like Spring Break at Daytona at times.  Turned out to be the least enjoyable part of that trip.  Fucking great seafood, though. 

It is and yet I know that there are so many other places that will blow my mind without the crowds.  This is what a friend of mine posted on Facebook about two weeks ago...

"Today we left Sorrento. It was pretty but incredibly crowded, inordinately expensive, and was evidently where Americans go to vacation with Americans in an Italian city. It’s a once in a lifetime place (meaning it will be the only time in my lifetime I need to go there). We arrived Matera a few minutes ago and are waiting for our airbnb host. No crowds, stunning views, and more caves than I’ll ever get to explore."

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We were Island hopping in Greece for a week and then flew to Florence last Thursday.  I took a train to Rome last Friday and flew out on Sunday (which was a clusterfuck shit show bc Newark cancelled all westbound flights Sunday evening -- Newark Airport was like Thunderdome it was fucking horrible -- I somehow made the last flight out to Austin but ended up getting in at 4 in the morning Sunday it fucking sucked) but my wife and the children stayed in Florence with some other moms and kids.

Wife and kids are supposed to fly out of Rome Saturday but there's a fucking strike at the airport.  United is telling them they can still leave if they leave earlier Saturday (strike doesn't start until late morning) but wants to put them on Turkish Air to Istanbul then connect to Chicago then to Austin.  My question for this esteemed group -- any experience with Turkish Air?  The internet tells me it's safe (much safer as of a few years ago) but i'm skittish.  I'm also concerned about them being stuck in Istanbul without me if they somehow miss their connection.  Are my concerns valid?  Is Istanbul not a place you'd want your wife and kids to be stranded?  Am I just a racist paranoid asshole?  

  

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5 hours ago, Gale Snoats said:

We were Island hopping in Greece for a week and then flew to Florence last Thursday.  I took a train to Rome last Friday and flew out on Sunday (which was a clusterfuck shit show bc Newark cancelled all westbound flights Sunday evening -- Newark Airport was like Thunderdome it was fucking horrible -- I somehow made the last flight out to Austin but ended up getting in at 4 in the morning Sunday it fucking sucked) but my wife and the children stayed in Florence with some other moms and kids.

Wife and kids are supposed to fly out of Rome Saturday but there's a fucking strike at the airport.  United is telling them they can still leave if they leave earlier Saturday (strike doesn't start until late morning) but wants to put them on Turkish Air to Istanbul then connect to Chicago then to Austin.  My question for this esteemed group -- any experience with Turkish Air?  The internet tells me it's safe (much safer as of a few years ago) but i'm skittish.  I'm also concerned about them being stuck in Istanbul without me if they somehow miss their connection.  Are my concerns valid?  Is Istanbul not a place you'd want your wife and kids to be stranded?  Am I just a racist paranoid asshole?  

  

Turkish should be fine, but my only experience with them was in 2018 in their First Class/Business cabin when they were still flying into the old Istanbul airport.  There were hiccups, but it had nothing to do with the plane or the airline.  More issues at airports on both ends.  The issues in Istanbul should be cleared up in the new airport (you had to deplane on the tarmac and bus because they didn't have enough room at the old airport).

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Turkish should be fine, but my only experience with them was in 2018 in their First Class/Business cabin when they were still flying into the old Istanbul airport.  There were hiccups, but it had nothing to do with the plane or the airline.  More issues at airports on both ends.  The issues in Istanbul should be cleared up in the new airport (you had to deplane on the tarmac and bus because they didn't have enough room at the old airport).

Thank you!
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1 hour ago, Gale Snoats said:


Thank you!

Turkish has a pretty good reputation... I wouldn't sweat it.

On the Amalfi Coast... my parents honeymooned in Positano... yeah, I'd love to see it but I have no interest in gobs of crowds and overpaying.  I don't like that anywhere and I agree with my friend... I want to vacation more with local people, not with Americans.  My Italian friend says the same thing about a specific Greek island... doesn't like it because its full of Italians.  

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37 minutes ago, texasdago said:

Turkish has a pretty good reputation... I wouldn't sweat it.

On the Amalfi Coast... my parents honeymooned in Positano... yeah, I'd love to see it but I have no interest in gobs of crowds and overpaying.  I don't like that anywhere and I agree with my friend... I want to vacation more with local people, not with Americans.  My Italian friend says the same thing about a specific Greek island... doesn't like it because its full of Italians.  

There are a lot of places along the Amalfi coast that are definitely overrun in June and September.  Hell, when we went to Capri in September, it was lively, but definitely not crazy, crazy.  

We were in Amalfi about 3 or 4 days before (just for a few hours one day after coming off a boat), and there were tons of people.  Probably just day trippers though.  Positano and Amalfi get overrun as those are major ferry stops.  There are tons of little villages in between that are much sleepier.  

I definitely want to go back, but I definitely will avoid driving.  Ferries are your friend.

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6 minutes ago, South Austin said:

I was in Positano for my honeymoon in 2004 and for the most part it wasn’t that crowded. It was in mid April, so I don’t know if that had anything to do with it, but my sense that even during that time of year now it’s not as sleepy as it once was.

Yeah maybe once the kids are grown we can go in the off-season.  In general summertime has gotten absurd in most places as everyone has to work around school holidays.  

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Great story about Positano. It was our last night before we headed back to the states. We’re at a great restaurant for dinner, and there’s only one other couple in the place, also American. We strike up a conversation, and they remark that we must be newlyweds because my ex kept looking at her ring. We tell them about our trip and our wedding ceremony in a nearby town. They talk about their son who was around my age. We chat a bit more, but eventually give each other some space to enjoy our meals.

It comes time for the bill. I motion for the waiter to come over, and tell him, “Il conto, per favore.” He looks at me and subtly shakes his head. I look confused, and he finally motions with his eyes toward the other table. We look over and the older American couple is beaming at us. They had paid for our dinner, and apparently did so without knowing or caring that we splurged on our last night and got a bottle of wine that was about 175-200 euro. We were floored, and we gave them a huge genuine hug and expressed our deep gratitude. They wished us luck and we said our goodbyes, telling ourselves we would pay it forward someday. 

We never got a chance to, and a little over 15 years later my marriage blew up right in my face. I still think fondly of my time in Italy, though, and there’s a small piece of my heart in Positano.

Edited by South Austin
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17 hours ago, Gale Snoats said:

We were Island hopping in Greece for a week and then flew to Florence last Thursday.  I took a train to Rome last Friday and flew out on Sunday (which was a clusterfuck shit show bc Newark cancelled all westbound flights Sunday evening -- Newark Airport was like Thunderdome it was fucking horrible -- I somehow made the last flight out to Austin but ended up getting in at 4 in the morning Sunday it fucking sucked) but my wife and the children stayed in Florence with some other moms and kids.

Wife and kids are supposed to fly out of Rome Saturday but there's a fucking strike at the airport.  United is telling them they can still leave if they leave earlier Saturday (strike doesn't start until late morning) but wants to put them on Turkish Air to Istanbul then connect to Chicago then to Austin.  My question for this esteemed group -- any experience with Turkish Air?  The internet tells me it's safe (much safer as of a few years ago) but i'm skittish.  I'm also concerned about them being stuck in Istanbul without me if they somehow miss their connection.  Are my concerns valid?  Is Istanbul not a place you'd want your wife and kids to be stranded?  Am I just a racist paranoid asshole?  

  

Turkish Air and new Istanbul airport are fine.  Agreed, you probably don't want the wife and kids roaming the city alone but the secured area of the airport should be no problem.

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22 hours ago, Gale Snoats said:

We were Island hopping in Greece for a week and then flew to Florence last Thursday.  I took a train to Rome last Friday and flew out on Sunday (which was a clusterfuck shit show bc Newark cancelled all westbound flights Sunday evening -- Newark Airport was like Thunderdome it was fucking horrible -- I somehow made the last flight out to Austin but ended up getting in at 4 in the morning Sunday it fucking sucked) but my wife and the children stayed in Florence with some other moms and kids.

Wife and kids are supposed to fly out of Rome Saturday but there's a fucking strike at the airport.  United is telling them they can still leave if they leave earlier Saturday (strike doesn't start until late morning) but wants to put them on Turkish Air to Istanbul then connect to Chicago then to Austin.  My question for this esteemed group -- any experience with Turkish Air?  The internet tells me it's safe (much safer as of a few years ago) but i'm skittish.  I'm also concerned about them being stuck in Istanbul without me if they somehow miss their connection.  Are my concerns valid?  Is Istanbul not a place you'd want your wife and kids to be stranded?  Am I just a racist paranoid asshole?  

  

Turkish to Istanbul should be fine. Fair warning that I haven’t used the new airport but if anything it should be a better experience. 
 

If you have a longer layover, then Turkish will set you up on a free short tour. It depends what day/time you sign up but they can be pretty good— Hagia Sophia/Blue Mosque/the palace. Recommend. You leave on a bus with other fliers, they give you a short tour, and a fine (not amazing) lunch or supper. 

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I chronicled a bit of my trip to Amalfi in April, and I loved it.  I can easily see how insane it gets in the high season and these towns are not built for that tourist load. 
 

I stayed in Amalfi but wish I had booked in Cetara and done the ferries to other places. Cetara was perfectly beautiful and much less overwhelmed with tourists, and I had a top ten meal of my life. 
 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, all--but particularly you, @texasdago--help me out with Spring Break next year.  It's the kids' first trip to Italy.  They're interested in Rome.  I love Rome.  So everything works out well there.  We'll probably have about a week in Italy, so I'm thinking four days in Rome and two or three days in another city.

So what city should that be?  I'm thinking I can fly out of MXP, so it can be anything heading in that general direction.  Bologna, Piacenza, Cremona, Parma.  But I could probably also head south and do Naples and hit up Pompeii.

No Florence.  Fuck Florence.  I've been there too many times, and it frankly kind of bores me.

And while I love Tuscany, this is a trip with the kids, and running around the Tuscan countryside probably wouldn't really be their bag.

But extra points if you can find some adventure thing for one day for the boy (e.g., canyoning, white-water rafting, basically anything with a measurable possibility of death or serious bodily injury).

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2 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

Ok, all--but particularly you, @texasdago--help me out with Spring Break next year.  It's the kids' first trip to Italy.  They're interested in Rome.  I love Rome.  So everything works out well there.  We'll probably have about a week in Italy, so I'm thinking four days in Rome and two or three days in another city.

So what city should that be?  I'm thinking I can fly out of MXP, so it can be anything heading in that general direction.  Bologna, Piacenza, Cremona, Parma.  But I could probably also head south and do Naples and hit up Pompeii.

No Florence.  Fuck Florence.  I've been there too many times, and it frankly kind of bores me.

And while I love Tuscany, this is a trip with the kids, and running around the Tuscan countryside probably wouldn't really be their bag.

But extra points if you can find some adventure thing for one day for the boy (e.g., canyoning, white-water rafting, basically anything with a measurable possibility of death or serious bodily injury).

Driving in Rome or Amalfi?

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36 minutes ago, Ghost of LL said:

I can drive, but if we're going to a place like Bologna, I think I'd rather just take the train.  

And I think we're bagging on Amalfi.  Mrs.LL and I will do that on a trip that's just the two of us.

You missed the bolded part:

...basically anything with a measurable possibility of death or serious bodily injury).

I was a passenger going to Amalfi, and I was so scared that we took the ferry back.  And we took a double-decker bus tour of rome, and I saw at least 3 fender benders. 

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23 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

Ok, all--but particularly you, @texasdago--help me out with Spring Break next year.  It's the kids' first trip to Italy.  They're interested in Rome.  I love Rome.  So everything works out well there.  We'll probably have about a week in Italy, so I'm thinking four days in Rome and two or three days in another city.

So what city should that be?  I'm thinking I can fly out of MXP, so it can be anything heading in that general direction.  Bologna, Piacenza, Cremona, Parma.  But I could probably also head south and do Naples and hit up Pompeii.

No Florence.  Fuck Florence.  I've been there too many times, and it frankly kind of bores me.

And while I love Tuscany, this is a trip with the kids, and running around the Tuscan countryside probably wouldn't really be their bag.

But extra points if you can find some adventure thing for one day for the boy (e.g., canyoning, white-water rafting, basically anything with a measurable possibility of death or serious bodily injury).

oooff... tough one... I used to go to Rome a lot in March... would visit family and stay for the whole week usually hanging in town.  When we took day trips we would go to places like Spoleto, Orvieto, smaller towns like Cerveteri (Etruscan ruins), lakes Lago di Nemi, Lago Albano... sometimes tiny places like Calcata which are funky, abandoned-like towns.  Usually not too hard to dig around and find some castles famous for their ghosts.  Try this... can't speak to experience with these places... https://www.viaggiamonellastoria-travelblog.com/2018/10/5-haunted-places-in-lazio.html

I personally love Napoli and you can always hit up Pompeii and the much calmer Herculaneum.  You could also hit up Paestum.  We used to also go in the summer (but a couple of times in the spring) to Sperlonga which is a beachside town.  Great food, charming, you can visit the ruins of Emperor Tiberius' palace. 

None of these are death-defying. 

I suppose you could go skiing to Ovindoli, Campo Felice or Campo Imperatore.  All within a 2 hour drive.  Lift tickets are dirt cheap.  You can hire a private guide for not much.  

 

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23 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

Ok, all--but particularly you, @texasdago--help me out with Spring Break next year.  It's the kids' first trip to Italy.  They're interested in Rome.  I love Rome.  So everything works out well there.  We'll probably have about a week in Italy, so I'm thinking four days in Rome and two or three days in another city.

So what city should that be?  I'm thinking I can fly out of MXP, so it can be anything heading in that general direction.  Bologna, Piacenza, Cremona, Parma.  But I could probably also head south and do Naples and hit up Pompeii.

No Florence.  Fuck Florence.  I've been there too many times, and it frankly kind of bores me.

And while I love Tuscany, this is a trip with the kids, and running around the Tuscan countryside probably wouldn't really be their bag.

But extra points if you can find some adventure thing for one day for the boy (e.g., canyoning, white-water rafting, basically anything with a measurable possibility of death or serious bodily injury).

Actually, if you're flying out of MXP, go up to Alagna/Monte Rosa.  Amazing big verticals.  You can get a private instructor for 190 Euro for 1/2 day for 2 people.  40 Euro for each added person.  Or hire a guide to go freeriding.  That's what I would do.  F it!

https://www.freeride.com/ski-resorts/alagna/

image.thumb.png.f915b0a382362bc5952ee82d88c91e74.png

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2 hours ago, texasdago said:

Actually, if you're flying out of MXP, go up to Alagna/Monte Rosa.  Amazing big verticals.  You can get a private instructor for 190 Euro for 1/2 day for 2 people.  40 Euro for each added person.  Or hire a guide to go freeriding.  That's what I would do.  F it!

https://www.freeride.com/ski-resorts/alagna/

image.thumb.png.f915b0a382362bc5952ee82d88c91e74.png

Yeah, that would be a hit with me and the boy.  But Mrs.LL hates skiing ever since she tore her ACL at Taos a few years ago.  So I fear that's a no-go.

I'm thinking Bologna for a second city.  Unless you think it best just to stick with Roma and just do day trips from there.  

Or maybe Parma.  Mmmmm--ham.

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40 minutes ago, Ghost of LL said:

Yeah, that would be a hit with me and the boy.  But Mrs.LL hates skiing ever since she tore her ACL at Taos a few years ago.  So I fear that's a no-go.

I'm thinking Bologna for a second city.  Unless you think it best just to stick with Roma and just do day trips from there.  

Or maybe Parma.  Mmmmm--ham.

Bummer and I feel like I remember you telling me that another time and I conveniently ignored it.  Bologna is great and You can use it as well for side trips.  You can visit Modena, Maranello (Ferrari), the Ducati museum and factory in Borgo Panigale, Lamborghini museum, eat eat and eat... etc

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2 hours ago, Ghost of LL said:

Yeah, that would be a hit with me and the boy.  But Mrs.LL hates skiing ever since she tore her ACL at Taos a few years ago.  So I fear that's a no-go.

I'm thinking Bologna for a second city.  Unless you think it best just to stick with Roma and just do day trips from there.  

Or maybe Parma.  Mmmmm--ham.

Highly recommend Parma and Modena. Book tours of the factories. It’s amazing. 

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On 7/25/2023 at 11:43 AM, BHMCruiser said:

I would go to Pompeii but stay in Sorrento. There's no good reason to go to Baltimore, I mean Naples, except the museum they moved a lot of the Pompeii stuff to. Naples is a shithole. 

Yeah, disagree with you on that.  Wasn’t the last time you went more than 20 years ago?

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