Jump to content

Tell me about your home media/theatre setups


Brian Fantana

Recommended Posts

44 minutes ago, hobbes2702 said:

In that price range are they doing 4k? I know with the standard projectors (last time I price checked) you had to get into that 7-10k range before getting a true 4k image.

 

Most display in 4k on the screen. Internally it's stitching together 4 HD images into a 4k image for the most part. There might be a new-ish samsung that is 4k internally, but they're not real clear on it. It's in the $6k range, but uses the same .47" DLP chip others are using.

I'm not a super a/v enthusiast, but not satiated with entry-level gear either. As long as it's good enough during the day, and even better at night, then I'm fine with that. Not that I haven't been looking through all the models in the range I'm looking to find the better product for me between what's there, but I'm looking in the $3k+/- range for the projector. Exception might be the 120" Hisense that comes paired with a screen and just under $6k. Probably not going with that projector, but would still be just in range with a separate projector/screen option.

I have it narrowed down to 6 or 7 different options. This is also kind of a trial run as well. If it does well enough, I'll go a little bigger when I move a few years down the road and use this one in the bedroom or something. If not, then I'll maybe use a spare room as a light controlled room with a more traditional projector.

Edited by thunderlounge
  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are a few different owner images of one during the day. I'd say I'm fine with any of those during the day. Especially since my LR doesn't get near the light some rooms in other homes do. If it's just a tick cloudy, you need a light on for the most part. Not because it's completely dark, just dim enough you need that boost. My brightest days are about the same as the amount in the first and last images below.

 

image.png.c785ab77dd526b1f6dcde1572f5f74b8.png

 

image.png.1aecdfb30026ce5268e3e1d23619f5ca.png

 

image.png.1c6aa455dd33a343e4362970fcba55a6.png

 

image.png.e43e86e25913247770876da777a33b92.png

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering those are user images, and we know how things look vice a pic like that, I’m plenty fine with something like that during the day.

While ust’s all have built-in sound, and much closer to a soundbar than a panel tv, I’ll add some type of soundbar/surround/sub to the mix. Nothing high end like a full sonos, but probably a mid-range setup. Good enough for my deaf ass. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I debated getting a short throw laser TV that was a great deal online ($1500 + $500 for the screen) but couldn't square having the odd look of the media cabinet about a foot or more away from the wall. Wife didn't like the idea of how it would look considering we have the existing projector in the back of the room where it's hard to notice it. In our TV room, you would walk by that cabinet being a foot out each time so that was a bit of a dealbreaker for her. 

The models I looked at in person were pretty impressive when I went out to Nebraska Furniture Mart. The 3 I saw were Hisense, Epson, and LG. All looked good in regular light but incredible in the dark. Only downside is being unable to see live TV with them as the only options to view were the stock 4K demos or apps on the device such as YouTube. I pulled up some NBA and NFL highlights and they looked pretty good. I'll probably just roll with a new Epson or BenQ this year. I would prefer to just move over to a 85" tv but OLED at that size are too much and QLED don't do sports and movies all that well if there's a lot of motion. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, mdmost said:

I debated getting a short throw laser TV that was a great deal online ($1500 + $500 for the screen) but couldn't square having the odd look of the media cabinet about a foot or more away from the wall. Wife didn't like the idea of how it would look considering we have the existing projector in the back of the room where it's hard to notice it. In our TV room, you would walk by that cabinet being a foot out each time so that was a bit of a dealbreaker for her. 

The models I looked at in person were pretty impressive when I went out to Nebraska Furniture Mart. The 3 I saw were Hisense, Epson, and LG. All looked good in regular light but incredible in the dark. Only downside is being unable to see live TV with them as the only options to view were the stock 4K demos or apps on the device such as YouTube. I pulled up some NBA and NFL highlights and they looked pretty good. I'll probably just roll with a new Epson or BenQ this year. I would prefer to just move over to a 85" tv but OLED at that size are too much and QLED don't do sports and movies all that well if there's a lot of motion. 

 

I've been debating the same thing. I'm currently in the camp that the extra 35"+ offsets the slight drawback of oled-level/quality during the day. However I have good news on the cabinet front. First, most UST's only need about 5"-7" between them and the wall, plus the depth of the unit. Also, check this slick little thing out...

 

 

This is one of many brands, but they slide your projector out when in use. They have memory so it sits exactly where you want it each time.

The bigger issue (and I use the term loosely here) is height from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the screen. Most need about 17" (for a 120" screen), give or take. So with just a 13" high cabinet below, the bottom of your screen is already at 30", and the top is at 88"-90". Most UST's range in the 100"-120" range, with some going down to 90" and some up to 150".

Note, I measured my setup and 150" ain't happening. 120" will be bad enough with the tree up at Christmas, but not bad enough to not do it.

If you're in the mid-range panel tv range, a UST setup will meet that level, maybe beat it in areas (color saturation for sure), and be a little less with a lot bigger picture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Black levels were a deal breaker on the STP for me. Just cant go from OLED blacks to a bad PC monitor in those terms. 
 

85 LG OLED can be found for under 3k. If more needed, the 100 inch Samsung is great but pricey (although cheaper than a true 4k projector and black diamond screen)

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the lights down, you can get close to oled black without going over $4k. Not quite during the day, but they’re advancing this format pretty quickly. Richer colors and size tip it to the UST for me. Also, no glare. Which is probably what “bothers” me the most with any panel.

There’s also the input lag, that may be of interest to some. The answer is it depends on which projector you get. Most are around 40ms, several are in the 17ms range. 

 

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well shit. Guess I'm starting it off a hair earlier, and in a different order than I planned. Got a new couch and loveseat being delivered the end of the month. Wasn't planning on getting started so soon, but couldn't pass up 50% off on these.

loveseat.thumb.png.1bbaade87be11699fe4eb135b3ed3885.png

couch.thumb.png.a5a8046ee16f9675504da669898ad89d.png

Now I have to decide about all the other shit on the list to do. Part of me wants to change out the flooring, although 90% of it is in good enough shape. And I don't have time to get that done before the furniture gets here. So it may not get done, which is ok. I can do it another time, and would still be moving furniture around and whatever anyway.

Really, same kind of goes for painting as well. When I do the "TV" later this year, I'll have to fix the wall where the current TV is mounted, as well as some hangers for a mirror that I just covered up with the TV. Nothing big, but not something I can fix and then put the TV back on the wall. Going to have to think that through. I guess I can do the other walls/ceiling/trim first, before the new TV would arrive, and be finishing the last wall when it gets here. So will have to think on that and figure out the timing and order of things to be as minimally disruptive as possible. Figure a day to prep, a day to paint, and half a day to put it back together.

 

 

  • Hook 'Em 1
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Wasn't ready for it, but found window shades/blinds for 1/2 price. Jumped on it. Double cell blackout, cordless. Was tempted for motorized, but not for another $200/ea, and they won't be moved much anyway.

 

blinds.thumb.jpg.fe96c802537cddbd80404eb88c09cdfc.jpg

 

Also have the flooring picked out. LVT:

ScreenShot2024-02-25at1_02_13PM.thumb.png.44d4860489c3243aa11fa0043bd0386f.png

 

Obviously stock images, but whatever. Second pic you can see the contrast between the darker wall and the floor at least. Should be spot on.

 

Edited by thunderlounge
add flooring, because ou sux
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Progress being made this month, albeit slower than I want.


Where it began:

IMG_0712.thumb.jpeg.c4cb45481fdd97783d28e037c9a41351.jpeg

Had the extension out, messing around. Note the shit ceiling fan. 

 

In progress:

IMG_0773.thumb.jpeg.7233272682d682f2d9974fd6a0a46a5d.jpeg

IMG_0753.thumb.jpeg.bedfac3b1a2a069b911801d5cde872a8.jpeg

IMG_0769.thumb.jpeg.dae4eddd27682689d5ad3b0e639d3e1f.jpeg

 

 

Wrapping up the painting portion, just have to fix a hand-full of fuck ups:

IMG_0784.thumb.jpeg.5e55d1cc3507a2893984f9df7d1a0bda.jpeg
IMG_9640.thumb.jpeg.6955cb605202e70edefcf62c7b444e4b.jpeg

IMG_0799.thumb.jpeg.e00da639502717625b98b0b97de3b1e6.jpeg

IMG_0802.thumb.jpeg.0034d8daa7f50ff0821952627f26423c.jpeg

 

 

Floor will go in the last half of this month, ended up with a light commercial LVP with a 20mil wear layer. Got a deal on it with installation, so doing the kitchen and LR both. Will be starting to paint the kitchen in a week or so. Plan to prep during the week, paint on the weekend. Tough to get much painted when you only have about 3 during the week, and still have to do something about dinner.  Friday night’s a little more open, obviously.

Once all of that is done, I’ll get the good stuff rolling. Can’t really hang a screen when I don’t know where the final height of the floor will be. Also have to still find a new a/v cabinet. Either one that is stupid short (10-12 inches) or has a center shelf that can hold 40lbs, is 8” or taller, and 25” or wider, that is 10-12 inches from the ground. Why? From there to the bottom of the screen needs to be 17 inches. Also the slider is 2 inches tall as well, so end up being 19 inches from the shelf/top to the bottom of the screen. Leaves little wiggle room to hit the 30” mark, where I’d like the bottom of the screen to be. 

  • Hook 'Em 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well shit. Came across a deal on a salamander synergy model 248. Got the cabinet (reg $2499ish) and an auto sliding tray (reg $499) for $1500 + tax. (Manufacturer link: https://www.salamanderdesigns.com/av-cabinets/synergy-model-248/)

image.png.3c22b8d46d37fa1e53b24feda2a53790.png

Slider will sit on the middle shelf. Should be about 12" high total, and will slide out far enough to clear the top of the cabinet. Once set, the slider will cycle with the projector power. So out when you turn it on, and in when you turn it off.

 

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well this is going just lovely. /sarcasm

Floor install started yesterday, and stopped. 
 

Long story, but it’s going to take raising the LR floor to the kitchen height, then leveling compound, and some other crap. Plus the floor wasn’t joining tight in several places, so they took up the 6 boxes already laid and bailed. They’re working on getting some osb to raise the LR floor up to the kitchen (had ceramic tile under the laminate, carpet in LR) and are also switching out the flooring lot.

Of course that issue could be/probably was unleveled floors, but they started in the wrong direction anyway, so I’m going to bite my tongue on that. Worst case is they replace the 6 boxes already used, since they probably weren’t careful taking it up anyway. Either way they’re changing direction and going end to end (across the joists) instead of front to back.

Probably adds another 600-700. 🙄

 

Projector comes in Thursday, screen on Friday. Cabinet ships on Friday for the second time. First time wires got crossed between seller and manufacturer, and they somehow sent me a Leon center channel instead of a salamander cabinet. Not bueno. Took some leg work, but the company did a great job to solve the problem.

If anyone needs audio stuff, give Audio Advice out of Raleigh a spin, they’re great peeps.

So contractor hell for a bit, and a delay, but they’ll have to deal with it, as do I. Guess there’s going to be an A/V cabinet (still boxed) for them to also move around when they come back. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, thunderlounge said:

IMG_0974.thumb.jpeg.64a94e7c2a46ebac947e811af4da748b.jpeg
 

There’s a Salamander cabinet in there somewhere, waiting to be put together. 
 

Now where to move it to while we wait. 

Now we have your address so we know where to pick up some sweet new A/V equipment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Casually reading this thread.  I upgraded the den, but I did it with the least amount of planning, fuss, whatnot.  We use an Apple TV and stream everything (Netflix, Youtube TV, Disney)

Replaced the 70" Sharp we have had since 2012 with a 85" Sony X90L.  Room is 23 x 14 (my recliner, when leaned back, is about 13 from the set).   Put bias lighting behind the set, which improved things visually, especially at night.

For audio, I had a Pioneer receiver and a modest 2.1 setup with a sub, but wife complained in the past about the size of the speakers, etc.  Plus, you had to do the remote juggling (yeah, I could have purchased a Harmony, but I digress). So....

Out went the existing setup, and I replaced it all with Sonos.   Arc for the soundbar, a pair of Subs and a pair of Era 300's (with stands) for the rears.  Incredibly easy setup, and it just works.  Judging from Reddit and whatnot people have issues getting Sonos equipment to work properly, but all of that seems directed back at your existing home network and wifi setup.  If it's deficient, Sonos equipment will suffer.  

I did add a Sony UPB-X700 Ultra HD blu ray player, because reasons.   Bought the Ultra HD version of Oppenheimer and it looks/sounds glorious.

Wife happy, although it took her a bit to get used to the rear surrounds.  For a week or so, she would always think something was happening in the kitchen.  

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Francisco 2.0 said:

For audio, I had a Pioneer receiver and a modest 2.1 setup with a sub, but wife complained in the past about the size of the speakers, etc.

"It's a grower, not a shower".

My wife was also a bit disturbed by effects from rear speakers mounted near sitting location, but she's gotten around it now. 

My Sonos runs rock solid on our network - Arc is hardwired and creates its own mesh network, including to other nodes upstairs. Only gripe is that the vertical Atmos height effect is very minimal. I have ideal rectangular shaped room with smooth ceilings for the upfiring speakers to bounce, but don't get a real sense of height separation.  The overall audio impression watching something like Dune is amazing still.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This idiot has a question. My old receiver finally went out, and I replaced it with a hand-me-down. My "passive" subwoofer has only stereo wire and the new receiver isn't compatible (RCA inputs for the woofer). Can I use an adaptor to plug in my subwoofer, or do I need to go shopping for a new one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/25/2024 at 8:23 AM, Francisco 2.0 said:

Casually reading this thread.  I upgraded the den, but I did it with the least amount of planning, fuss, whatnot.  We use an Apple TV and stream everything (Netflix, Youtube TV, Disney)

Replaced the 70" Sharp we have had since 2012 with a 85" Sony X90L.  Room is 23 x 14 (my recliner, when leaned back, is about 13 from the set).   Put bias lighting behind the set, which improved things visually, especially at night.

For audio, I had a Pioneer receiver and a modest 2.1 setup with a sub, but wife complained in the past about the size of the speakers, etc.  Plus, you had to do the remote juggling (yeah, I could have purchased a Harmony, but I digress). So....

Out went the existing setup, and I replaced it all with Sonos.   Arc for the soundbar, a pair of Subs and a pair of Era 300's (with stands) for the rears.  Incredibly easy setup, and it just works.  Judging from Reddit and whatnot people have issues getting Sonos equipment to work properly, but all of that seems directed back at your existing home network and wifi setup.  If it's deficient, Sonos equipment will suffer.  

I did add a Sony UPB-X700 Ultra HD blu ray player, because reasons.   Bought the Ultra HD version of Oppenheimer and it looks/sounds glorious.

Wife happy, although it took her a bit to get used to the rear surrounds.  For a week or so, she would always think something was happening in the kitchen.  

 

 

 

 

 

How are the Era 300s?  I am thinking of upgrading from the Ones for the surround sound and wondering if the cost is justified.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Red Five said:

This idiot has a question. My old receiver finally went out, and I replaced it with a hand-me-down. My "passive" subwoofer has only stereo wire and the new receiver isn't compatible (RCA inputs for the woofer). Can I use an adaptor to plug in my subwoofer, or do I need to go shopping for a new one. 

You need somewhere for the power to come from. I don’t know that there’s a way to do that without binding posts for speaker wire.

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Red Five said:

This idiot has a question. My old receiver finally went out, and I replaced it with a hand-me-down. My "passive" subwoofer has only stereo wire and the new receiver isn't compatible (RCA inputs for the woofer). Can I use an adaptor to plug in my subwoofer, or do I need to go shopping for a new one. 

Your subwoofer isn't powered and the RCA sub outputs on your receiver are ultra low power...it will absolutely not power your sub. Get a new sub.

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well shit. Came across a deal on a salamander synergy model 248. Got the cabinet (reg $2499ish) and an auto sliding tray (reg $499) for $1500 + tax. (Manufacturer link: https://www.salamanderdesigns.com/av-cabinets/synergy-model-248/)
image.png.3c22b8d46d37fa1e53b24feda2a53790.png
Slider will sit on the middle shelf. Should be about 12" high total, and will slide out far enough to clear the top of the cabinet. Once set, the slider will cycle with the projector power. So out when you turn it on, and in when you turn it off.
 

Is this a short throw projector setup?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Audio is sorted, and I should be able to sit down again by Labor Day, hopefully.

Got coming:

(2) SVS Prime Towers
(1) SVS Prime Center
(2) SVS Prime Satellites
(1) Onkyo RZ50

Plus 14/4 wire, 3 wall plates/backs for a clean connection look, SVS sub cable, and banana plugs. Plugs aren’t really necessary, but I wanted to ensure no stray strand from a bare wire connection to short out. Added cost, but peace of mind I guess.

 

Gear all arrives Tuesday. Floors start back up Thursday for 3 days, so should be (more like better be) done by Saturday.

Saturday afternoon I should be starting to pull cable, and hopefully watch a movie Saturday night. Might be Sunday, depending on when I can start pulling cable (guess I could maybe start early, depending on what I have to work around.)

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Converted some attic space into a windowless HT. 14’x14’ and the little snack nook.

83” LG OLED
7.1 Surround w/ atmos
Denon Receiver
Martin Logan Motion 40i Towers
ML Motion 50xTI center
2x ML MC8 Ceiling Speakers
ML Motion XTW6 rears
SVS PB2000 Sub
Control4 Universal Remote
Octane Theater Seats

c59160af9f44cbc09202eab4db0b3162.jpg
2809fd367dff3fcb8cf8ca84b4faf088.jpg
66416a919778334170ac780ae5c99116.jpg
b2e015f69dad189fb85ae431f95b80dc.jpg

  • Hook 'Em 5
  • Drool 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The control4 setup was around $1000. Needed it because the receiver is in a closet down the hall.

I’m not completely fond of it. You have to rely on the a/v guys to set it up and edit. I had a harmony remote a long time ago, and really liked being able to set it up and make changes on my own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I also have had harmony in the past and loved it. The used market is there, and the servers still on, but used prices are high enough I’m not willing to take a chance.

It’s a shame that the one that has it figured out is cutting bait.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/26/2024 at 11:20 AM, Noah Fence said:

How are the Era 300s?  I am thinking of upgrading from the Ones for the surround sound and wondering if the cost is justified.

 

Honestly?  Using them as surrounds robs them of their full potential; there's numerous articles here and there documenting this.  But as surrounds?  My goodness, they sound fantastic. I did purchase the Sonos stands for them vs mounting them on a wall, or placing them on furniture.

Now, I didn't have Ones (or even rear surrounds with the old setup) so I can't compare them,  but....yeah. Outstanding audio. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, jofus said:

Converted some attic space into a windowless HT. 14’x14’ and the little snack nook.

83” LG OLED
7.1 Surround w/ atmos
Denon Receiver
Martin Logan Motion 40i Towers
ML Motion 50xTI center
2x ML MC8 Ceiling Speakers
ML Motion XTW6 rears
SVS PB2000 Sub
Control4 Universal Remote
Octane Theater Seats

c59160af9f44cbc09202eab4db0b3162.jpg
2809fd367dff3fcb8cf8ca84b4faf088.jpg
66416a919778334170ac780ae5c99116.jpg
b2e015f69dad189fb85ae431f95b80dc.jpg

Move those speakers out from the wall a bit. Great setup 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, thunderlounge said:

I’d love to do a full light controlled space. 
 

What did the control4 part run? Seeing that Logitech killed off Harmony, I haven’t found a good alternative yet. 

Company in Dallas came up with a cool solution for blackout shades. The shade rides inside the window frame so there is no light leaking in from the edges. Motorized and non-motorized options. 
 

 

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Denon 3700h receiver as a pre/pro running through a Parasound A52 amp. ML Foundation 2s for the front, ML center, 2 Deftech subs, Deftech in walls for the rear, Oppo 205 universal dvd and LG C-1 all run through a Panamax line conditioner.

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Move those speakers out from the wall a bit. Great setup 

I’ve got those things quadruple anchored to the console with 3m command strips.

I have three little ones to contend with.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Don't you use the remote to keystone it and then your phone to ensure it's inside the borders?

I decided I'm not going to 85" TV route. We're going to get an Epson 5050 next month. It's got a long enough throw ratio for our room and we'll see how it works with our existing screen before deciding if we want to get a bigger one. I was going to save some money and get a 4010 but they only have HDMI 1.4. I feel like the price on the 5050 is going to drop really soon. 

Edited by mdmost
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mdmost said:

Don't you use the remote to keystone it and then your phone to ensure it's inside the borders?


Yes, but….

With the unit on the shelf, it’s going to clip the bottom of the image, as seen in the above pic with light shining on the center of the top front edge. I even tried raising it to where the top of the unit met the underneath of the top.

I currently have it sitting on top of the cabinet, close enough to have the image all within the screen.

IMG_1067.thumb.jpeg.8310dd2f2963b31d1f29dc5a8a8fe9c2.jpeg

 

So far the options I’ve come up with are:

A) Leave on top, raise the screen about 9”.

B) Cut the top of the new cabinet, so light is unobstructed. So cut the top of the 1k cabinet, that normally is 2.5k.

 

A is the preferred option so far. Last resort would be cutting the top, for several reasons.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Baboontyme said:

That's why I just have mine on a shitty Amazon cabinet. That and I can't afford a 4k salamander cabinet. 

 


I couldn’t either. But $1k on what I’m guessing had to be mislabeled… and they honored it? Yeah, I took that.

I’m getting there, but still a lot of tweaking to do. I think I’m going to let it break in a bit before fucking with it any more. It’s been a long project for what it was, and a little break to breathe for a minute isn’t a bad thing.

 

IMG_1073.thumb.jpeg.955ad9bba9b6ed172643f555747e6c73.jpeg

IMG_1075.thumb.jpeg.7ea182f62bce9b5befec00e71dde3f82.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/8/2024 at 5:20 PM, thunderlounge said:


Yes, but….

With the unit on the shelf, it’s going to clip the bottom of the image, as seen in the above pic with light shining on the center of the top front edge. I even tried raising it to where the top of the unit met the underneath of the top.

I currently have it sitting on top of the cabinet, close enough to have the image all within the screen.

IMG_1067.thumb.jpeg.8310dd2f2963b31d1f29dc5a8a8fe9c2.jpeg

 

So far the options I’ve come up with are:

A) Leave on top, raise the screen about 9”.

B) Cut the top of the new cabinet, so light is unobstructed. So cut the top of the 1k cabinet, that normally is 2.5k.

 

A is the preferred option so far. Last resort would be cutting the top, for several reasons.

 

 

option C, build a mechanized slide out thing with an Arduino controller for when you power it on and it just slides out of the front of the cabinet while in use and when turned off slides right back in. 

Motorized Slider Tray (Auto Extendable Shelf) 120 or 150 inch (awolvision.com)

like this thing.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah man, putting it on top is unacceptable and makes it look completely like shit. 0/10 would not do. You need to figure out how to get the shelf to extend further or cut the cabinet. That looks like complete shit. 

Also moving the screen further up probably isn't a bad thing, that viewing angle looks really really low TBH, but I've always preferred a more cinema like experience where the screen is a bit elevated to the eye. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, immamac said:

wait am I a moron, did you buy that thing and it still doesn't work?


The slider worked as advertised. But the distances are off just enough that it’s creating the issue.

I moved the screen up yesterday, and have it on top of the cabinet for now. The cabinet is as close to the wall as I can get it, but still 6”-8” away due to a floor vent and surge protector.

I could in theory shift the cabinet a bit to miss the vent, but then things won’t line up aesthetically, and will drive me (and any sane person) insane. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:


The slider worked as advertised. But the distances are off just enough that it’s creating the issue.

I moved the screen up yesterday, and have it on top of the cabinet for now. The cabinet is as close to the wall as I can get it, but still 6”-8” away due to a floor vent and surge protector.

I could in theory shift the cabinet a bit to miss the vent, but then things won’t line up aesthetically, and will drive me (and any sane person) insane. 

not the projector the actual screen on the wall. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:


I couldn’t either. But $1k on what I’m guessing had to be mislabeled… and they honored it? Yeah, I took that.

I’m getting there, but still a lot of tweaking to do. I think I’m going to let it break in a bit before fucking with it any more. It’s been a long project for what it was, and a little break to breathe for a minute isn’t a bad thing.

 

IMG_1073.thumb.jpeg.955ad9bba9b6ed172643f555747e6c73.jpeg

IMG_1075.thumb.jpeg.7ea182f62bce9b5befec00e71dde3f82.jpeg

 

Would raising the stand off the ground help?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, immamac said:

not the projector the actual screen on the wall. 


The one I raised 9” yesterday?

I’m going to think it through for a bit. I may end up cutting the top. If so, I think I’ll just make the center topless and cut it at the inner edge of each outer box. But I’m going to think on it a while, before I do something that cannot easily be undone. 
 

ETA: With no top in the center, I’ll have to also rethink center channel positioning as well. It’s deep enough it may obstruct the image if wall mounted. Would probably have to go bottom shelf and  slightly angle up. 

Edited by thunderlounge
ou sux
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Got the Epson 5050ub projector in yesterday. Took down the old Panasonic projector that served us well for a decade and put the Epson up on the same mount. I thought I would have to buy an Apple TV 4K but then figured out the one I had was already 4K, it was just the earliest version that was released. Changed all the cables to HDMI 2.0. The automated lens shift made it so easy to align everything perfectly. There's some ambient light that gets in our room but still it looked great when I fired up the projector. Then night time came and it was spectacular.

The 4K videos I watched looked amazing. Mostly they were the demo type stuff you see at Best Buy but there were also some clips from Avengers and Top Gun Maverick. Also watched the Mavs game which was very nice. I have a few 4K movies on the Apple TV that I added back when they were just blu-rays that came with digital versions. I am very happy with my purchase. I think we might go up on the screen size but I need to do more research on what works best for this projector. I believe my existing screen is 1.1 gain. I may look at if an ambient light screen would work. I also might look at either black out curtains or replacing our existing blinds with ones that block out the light. 

What are some other sources for HDR and 4K content? I know you can get a 4K blu-ray player now but that seems a little redundant when the Apple TV can get 4K content. Most of the current providers I use like Disney+, Apple+, and Hulu offer 4K and HDR. I know stupid Netflix makes you go up to the higher tier to get 4K. 

Forgot to add, got a giant win as the wife was actually shocked at how much she liked watching 4K content on the projector. I thought it would be something she would just have to get used to but she really enjoyed it right away. 

Edited by mdmost
  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...