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The '98 911 is in the shop getting inspected and I'm having the Pirelli P-Zero set replaced by a much less aggressive set of Continentals.

Too many of the roads here in Pennsylvania are horrible and the tires are killing me, plus, I'm not going to track days, in my eyes it is a GT car.

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23 hours ago, PittsburghTiger said:

The '98 911 is in the shop getting inspected and I'm having the Pirelli P-Zero set replaced by a much less aggressive set of Continentals.

Too many of the roads here in Pennsylvania are horrible and the tires are killing me, plus, I'm not going to track days, in my eyes it is a GT car.

Huge difference with the different tires. Way more comfortable. 

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Pretty sure I spoke of this one upstream a few months ago, found it in the wild last night

20200514-202013.jpg

Talked to the guy that built it, pretty interesting really.  Has an international grain truck engine in it with A/C.  He drives it everywhere, drove it down to GasMonkey a few years back.  All underframe is original, added Dana rear end.  He said the option package that it came in there were only 64 built, 400 HO.  

He got it from his ex-girlfriends mother in '78 after her new boyfriend had blown it up.  Mom knew he liked it, called him up and said come get it, I want it gone.

Got it for the price of a tow.  Love those stories.

Definitely one of a kind.

 

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2 hours ago, mulletpelini said:

Pretty sure I spoke of this one upstream a few months ago, found it in the wild last night

20200514-202013.jpg

Talked to the guy that built it, pretty interesting really.  Has an international grain truck engine in it with A/C.  He drives it everywhere, drove it down to GasMonkey a few years back.  All underframe is original, added Dana rear end.  He said the option package that it came in there were only 64 built, 400 HO.  

He got it from his ex-girlfriends mother in '78 after her new boyfriend had blown it up.  Mom knew he liked it, called him up and said come get it, I want it gone.

Got it for the price of a tow.  Love those stories.

Definitely one of a kind.

 

 

1 hour ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

It's utter fucking blasphemy, but damned if I don't like it.

It is crazy, but remember that a 911 finished 1st, 2nd & (I think) 6th in the Paris-Dakar event back in about 1983-ish

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On 5/15/2020 at 10:12 AM, Onboard 2.0 said:

It's utter fucking blasphemy, but damned if I don't like it.

I really want to hate it, but now especially after hearing the history, I can't.

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That one is new to me too. 
The one I always heard was: Brits drink warm beer because Lucas makes refrigerators too. 

Fuck

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Posted (edited)

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yAobT2j.jpg

yAobT2j.jpg

My car looks decent in the shade from this distance.  Saving up for paint and interior work now.  Let me know your recs.

XnGSRvQ.jpg

 

If you're interested in a low key, informal, Central Texas, American made car group on Facebook let me know.  Going to Top Notch or driving to Taylor or Lockhart maybe Llano is the type of things we do.

Edited by TexasEd

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1 minute ago, Prepuce of Doom said:

I recommend that you host your pictures somewhere other than Imgur. 

yep, working on that.

 

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Posted (edited)

I can't imagine how much fun tuning a 6 barrell would be.  Never enjoyed helping Dad with the four single barrels on a Corvair and my MGA had twin SU's which were a ton of fun (manual said "turn the adjustment screw until it sounds good")

Edited by AUinHsv

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Posted (edited)

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Posting from my Google Photos library.  Let me know if this works or not.

 

Edit: the faded sticker in the rear window is a "The University of Texas at Austin" Sticker from the late 80s.

Edited by TexasEd

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I can't imagine how much fun tuning a 6 barrell would be.  Never enjoyed helping Dad with the four single barrels on a Corvair and my MGA had twin SU's which were a ton of fun (manual said "turn the adjustment screw until it sounds good")
Old timers were real good at doing that by ear/sound. Definitely a lost art.

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1 hour ago, Mother mopar said:
2 hours ago, AUinHsv said:
I can't imagine how much fun tuning a 6 barrell would be.  Never enjoyed helping Dad with the four single barrels on a Corvair and my MGA had twin SU's which were a ton of fun (manual said "turn the adjustment screw until it sounds good")

Old timers were real good at doing that by ear/sound. Definitely a lost art.

Exactly how I did the twin SU's. had a piece of tubing stuck in the ear.

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Old timers were real good at doing that by ear/sound. Definitely a lost art.

I’ve got a buddy that used to drag race a ton. He’s great with carburetors.

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Carburetors are a marvel of mechanical engineering and non-electronic control.  Even the basic notion of using a venturi to meter fuel is a fairly incredible idea.  Then all the add-on functionality.

Mechanical fuel injection is interesting also, but less so I think, because it's not as adaptable.

Electronic fuel injection, once enabled by electronic control, is boring by comparison.

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10 hours ago, tbone_ said:

Carburetors are just fucking cool.

I have no motivation to convert my car to EFI.  Why would I want my classic to be more like my newer cars.

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So one of the interesting things to me has been the kids' (5, 8, 10) reaction to a classic. 

Dad, what are all these things? (ashtrays, 4 of them).

Dad, how do I open the door? (well, you grab this and rotate this and pull this in this direction). 

Dad, what are these things on the door? (window roller knobs). 

Dad, why is it so loud? (Fucking America kid, ain't it great).

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Just wrapped up the refurb of my instrument cluster.  Everything now working as it should, lights, camera, action.

IMG_5941.thumb.jpg.15166915af586082c93ec7a916b6bce5.jpgIMG_5940.thumb.jpg.25fb338a8c96642d5c2b5ed279089796.jpg

 

One of the cool things about restoring a classic is coming across small, specialized businesses. You usually get to talk directly to the owner and they always appreciate the business. Clock not working?  There's a guy in Wisconsin that refurbs them and adds a modern quartz mechanism.  Speedo off?  There's a guy with a home garage business that fixes classic speedos.   My favorite so far is a company in Michigan that refurbed my instrument panel.   It was faded and the silver edges were all gone.  This company replates silver onto plastic - that's it, that's all they do.  Toys, models, costume jewelry and automobile parts.  I just think it's cool that a company like that is alive and kicking.

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2 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Just wrapped up the refurb of my instrument cluster.  Everything now working as it should, lights, camera, action.

IMG_5941.thumb.jpg.15166915af586082c93ec7a916b6bce5.jpgIMG_5940.thumb.jpg.25fb338a8c96642d5c2b5ed279089796.jpg

 

One of the cool things about restoring a classic is coming across small, specialized businesses. You usually get to talk directly to the owner and they always appreciate the business. Clock not working?  There's a guy in Wisconsin that refurbs them and adds a modern quartz mechanism.  Speedo off?  There's a guy with a home garage business that fixes classic speedos.   My favorite so far is a company in Michigan that refurbed my instrument panel.   It was faded and the silver edges were all gone.  This company replates silver onto plastic - that's it, that's all they do.  Toys, models, costume jewelry and automobile parts.  I just think it's cool that a company like that is alive and kicking.

My rally pac clock has never worked.  The replacement/repair kits I've seen online are outrageous. I'd love to have a quartz swap out.  Got an address ? 

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50 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

My rally pac clock has never worked.  The replacement/repair kits I've seen online are outrageous. I'd love to have a quartz swap out.  Got an address ? 

I had to go through my invoices to find it - holy shit, I've spent a lot of money on this restoration.  I don't want to look through those again.

The Clock Works in beautiful Eagle River Wisconsin.  800-398-3040.  Mine cost $190 bucks and it was in bad shape.

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Just now, Mach 1 said:

I had to go through my invoices to find it - holy shit, I've spent a lot of money on this restoration.  I don't want to look through those again.

The Clock Works in beautiful Eagle River Wisconsin.  800-398-3040.  Mine cost $190 bucks and it was in bad shape.

Yeah don't do that often, it'll only bring tears, and you leave an evidence trail for the wife. That's never good.  Much obliged.

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On 5/21/2020 at 11:19 PM, Anastasis said:

So one of the interesting things to me has been the kids' (5, 8, 10) reaction to a classic. 

Dad, what are all these things? (ashtrays, 4 of them).

Dad, how do I open the door? (well, you grab this and rotate this and pull this in this direction). 

Dad, what are these things on the door? (window roller knobs). 

Dad, why is it so loud? (Fucking America kid, ain't it great).

This happened a few years ago at the Hot Rod show at the Rodeo complex.  I told my kids, "The answer to all of your questions about why the owners did something is because it makes it cool, fast, loud, or all three."

On 5/22/2020 at 7:21 PM, Onboard 2.0 said:

Yeah don't do that often, it'll only bring tears, and you leave an evidence trail for the wife. That's never good.  Much obliged.

My wife asked me if I was keeping track of how much I had put into the car a while back and I said nope.  She said don't you think you should?  Same answer.

If I wanted to know how much I put into it I could probably figure it out but no need leaving a paper trail for her to find.   I'm working on estimates to get some metal work, paint, and new interior work done.  No way in hell I'll tell her how much.  Just gotta break it into manageable chunks.

 

Edited by TexasEd

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1 minute ago, mulletpelini said:

Does she tell you everytime she buys a pair of $80 shoes?  Alright then.

Would that the parts were usually only $80.....

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On 5/18/2020 at 3:11 PM, AUinHsv said:

I can't imagine how much fun tuning a 6 barrell would be.  Never enjoyed helping Dad with the four single barrels on a Corvair and my MGA had twin SU's which were a ton of fun (manual said "turn the adjustment screw until it sounds good")

What year was yours? Mine was a 1960 - red, with red interior & tan top.

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11 hours ago, Armybrat said:

What year was yours? Mine was a 1960 - red, with red interior & tan top.

Have or had two. First was also a 1960 - red but previous owner painted it black. I stripped it and painted sky blue. The one I have now is 1962 that has been either my Dad's or twin brothers since 1980. It is still the original sky blue.

A picture of them side by side in 80's    Sunlight does not do that color justice. it is not washed out like it looks

4.jpg

 

Edited by AUinHsv

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26 minutes ago, AUinHsv said:

Have or had two. First was also a 1960 - red but previous owner painted it black. I stripped it and painted sky blue. The one I have now is 1962 that has been either my Dad's or twin brothers since 1980. It is still the original sky blue.

A picture of them side by side in 80's    Sunlight does not do that color justice. it is not washed out like it looks

4.jpg

 

I like the light, happy colors on those body styles..... or high gloss black with calf brown interiors...

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On 3/31/2020 at 10:49 AM, Mach 1 said:

but really need to pull it out and get in there with a borescope to check it out.

You should be able to remove the cowl vent and the wiper motor to get a good luck/access to the top without having to scope.  Underside a different story, wiring every where, lower dash, etc.

Surface rust no big deal.  Hit it with these 2 and you're good to go.

https://evapo-rust.com/.  Use a paper towel doused with the stuff and lay it on the cowl, as much direct contact as possible. Do this a couple times over 2 days and you're good.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03584-Professional-Rubberized-Undercoating/dp/B002H9CMCQ

Looks like I am going to get some experience with the rust remover.

I knew that there was some surface rust under in the trunk.  Finally pull everything up and got a better look.  Appears that some water got in and the underpad soaked it up and held it on the left side of the trunk area.  Appears to be surface rust, no pinholes or anything. Considering my options here.  Might just go at it with a wire brush and the rust evaporator and then throw down some primer and paint.  Also considering just having the whole trunk blasted, replacing the gas tank, and painting the whole thing. Thoughts?

First pic is before I did a little light brushing and shopvac.  Its the left rail that is most effected. 

9-FB39117-533-C-4-BDE-8-EE7-B110-FD26-C2 

C6-A3-F31-A-FDD7-4245-B80-F-02250-EF0045

590403-EF-DCF9-484-C-9-B7-F-ECCB63-C0144

B0-D55-BDE-20-A4-4503-831-A-0-AE620-F995

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8 minutes ago, Chad Fuck said:

Any of you Mustang guys have good resources (books, manuals, etc.) on restos? Trying to get my game plan together to finish up my long term project.

Seconded.  I have a couple old books from like the 80s, but they are not sufficiently detailed and the pictures suck.  

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1 hour ago, Chad Fuck said:

Any of you Mustang guys have good resources (books, manuals, etc.) on restos? Trying to get my game plan together to finish up my long term project.

I'ver found that most things I needed to do to my car could be found on Youtube videos or join a Mustang board, and ask for insight on specific issues you're dealing with.

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1 hour ago, Chad Fuck said:

Any of you Mustang guys have good resources (books, manuals, etc.) on restos? Trying to get my game plan together to finish up my long term project.

I've think the best resource for the mechanicals is the original factory shop manual. Obviously that doesn't cover restoration techniques, but it's good for repair/part replacement. 
 

 

Edited by Bozo_Casanova

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4 hours ago, Chad Fuck said:

Any of you Mustang guys have good resources (books, manuals, etc.) on restos? Trying to get my game plan together to finish up my long term project.

As Bozo said, a lot of guys say to buy the original shop manual.  I must be missing something because I haven't learned shit from mine. Some must be better than others. My Mustang manual's illustrations are confusing, the write ups aren't very detailed.  Just really dated overall.

@Onboard 2.0 recommendation is where I'm at.  Log in to Vintage Mustang Forum and search around - lots of good info there. 

Google is your friend.  Break down your restoration into bit parts and Google specific stuff, like "1970 Mach 1 transmission shifter linkage" or "1970 Mustang rear shock replacement" and you'll get a few youtube videos and almost always a direct link to a VMF post discussing that exact subject.

They do have good, modern manuals covering engine work.  Google your engine number and "manual" and something will surely pop up.

Good luck.

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8 hours ago, Anastasis said:

Looks like I am going to get some experience with the rust remover.

I knew that there was some surface rust under in the trunk.  Finally pull everything up and got a better look.  Appears that some water got in and the underpad soaked it up and held it on the left side of the trunk area.  Appears to be surface rust, no pinholes or anything. Considering my options here.  Might just go at it with a wire brush and the rust evaporator and then throw down some primer and paint.  Also considering just having the whole trunk blasted, replacing the gas tank, and painting the whole thing. Thoughts?

First pic is before I did a little light brushing and shopvac.  Its the left rail that is most effected. 

9-FB39117-533-C-4-BDE-8-EE7-B110-FD26-C2 

C6-A3-F31-A-FDD7-4245-B80-F-02250-EF0045

590403-EF-DCF9-484-C-9-B7-F-ECCB63-C0144

B0-D55-BDE-20-A4-4503-831-A-0-AE620-F995

Yeah, it's all salvageable.  Once you get that crud - or is it a rubber cover of some kind? - off your gas tank it will probably look brand new.  Opinions are split on restoring original vs buying a new tank - I think because original can rust on inside vs new ones not as solid. Mine was fine inside so I restored it.

Rather than blast, maybe hit the trunk area with paint remover first.  Use a wire wheel on a drill gun to make it easier to take all the paint off, also gets into nooks and crannies.  Then hit it with the Evaporust a couple of times and you should be clean and ready for repaint.

Edited by Mach 1

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52 minutes ago, Mach 1 said:

Once you get that crud - or is it a rubber cover of some kind?

It's a tacky material that was applied to the gas tank.  The areas it covered were well preserved, the other areas not so much. It's basically the outer lip area of the tank that are corroded, and the left rear rail.  I am leaning towards just replacing the tank because I want to get under that lip and fix any issues before it gets too far along, and also cause my fuel gauge has been acting janky and I think I need to replace the sending unit anyways.  The gauge pegs past full.  Then when the battery discharges while it is sitting in the garage and I recharge it, sometimes it starts working again, and then eventually pegs past full again. 

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Just now, Anastasis said:

It's a tacky material that was applied to the gas tank.  The areas it covered were well preserved, the other areas not so much. It's basically the outer lip area of the tank that are corroded, and the left rear rail.  I am leaning towards just replacing the tank because I want to get under that lip and fix any issues before it gets too far along, and also cause my fuel gauge has been acting janky and I think I need to replace the sending unit anyways.  The gauge pegs past full.  Then when the battery discharges while it is sitting in the garage and I recharge it, sometimes it starts working again, and then eventually pegs past full again. 

New tank is a good idea just because of 50 plus years of crud buildup in an old tank. Make sure the new one has a drain plug. 

Carefully remove the old sending unit, clean it, make a new mesh screen to cover the pick up tube, and re use it if the float is still sealed.  The new units just do not work as well at giving you an accurate read on how full the tank is. So many repo mustang parts are not that good. Finding NOS could be an option, but I'm not sure I've ever seen one.

I learned that bit of trivia after I'd installed a new unit.  Luckily I kept the original unit, which I've done with most of the parts I've replaced over the years.  I'll get back under, and put it back in one day. 

 

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