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The Pate Meet is confirmed.
The 2021 Pate Swap Meet Is Certain


This is my pops favorite thing in the world, well maybe outside of the big classic auctions. I’m going to plan to attend with him this year, they’ve got yearly Spots reserved so going to try and rent or rv or hotel nearby for us. Hopefully he doesn’t send me home before the weekend ends ;)
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Paint jobs are expensive... Gonna run in 5 figures for this. Not surprising - that paint job was done in our garage in 1980. There are at least 20 panels to remove. Luckily the fender are bolt on. A lot of body work that you can't see -rockers, rear doglegs etc have to be replaced. Plus doors, trunk and hood are aluminum which is different process. Everything has to be stripped first.  And that is not my 911 in background. Picture was when we were loading it in the truck to ship to the people doing the work. 911 shared the truck

 

IMG_0930small.jpg

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Bo said:

 


This is my pops favorite thing in the world, well maybe outside of the big classic auctions. I’m going to plan to attend with him this year, they’ve got yearly Spots reserved so going to try and rent or rv or hotel nearby for us. Hopefully he doesn’t send me home before the weekend ends ;)

 

I got notification that event is sorta being moved.  There is a vaccine hub in place that uses part of the traditional swap meet real estate.  So the swap meet will be moved further East.  Be prepared for the additional traffic in the area.  As it stands now I'm planning on being there most likely Thursday,   Guess now that the LM swap is over in the CJ, it's time to start looking for the next project.  I told the wife it would be the last one. I'm considering a '59 Cadillac with LS3 or ....?  Think Cadillac meets party barge meets convertible; except it would be full time 'vert.  Would go something like only a single drivers door and two on the right with the back door being a suicide style.  Bench seating all around in the back with some tasteful LED lighting and small removable table.  Shorten the trunk area WAY down, maybe just big enough to keep a spare. It would be a parade car for the homecoming queen, take the grand kids to Sonic for ice cream, bachelor party car with DD car.

The 2021 Pate Swap Meet Is Moving 900-Yard to the East

Edited by Bevo&Pevo
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On 10/17/2020 at 2:04 PM, Horn of Gabriel said:

Cuda update!

I finally got it back after about 7 months in the shop.  COVID slowed stuff down, especially we had to wait on some parts longer than expected.  Full list of what we did:

  • Pulled the engine (383) out and sent it up to WCH Racing Engines in Midlothian for a full rebuild: bored, new pistons, rings, valve and springs, gaskets, cam - everything. ¬†They crated it and sent it back basically a fresh engine.
  • While the engine was out, repainted the engine bay to match the body color - also did some minor metal work around the firewall where there was some corrosion
  • Replaced the stock torsion bars w/ Hotchkis bars appropriate for the big block
  • Replaced the brake lines with new stainless lines
  • Replaced the master cylinder
  • Pulled the steering box and sent it to FirmFeel for a rebuild, with tighter gearing
  • Replaced the idler and pitman arm with a fast ratio arm - much tighter steering! ¬†Took a full revolution out of the wheel from lock to lock
  • Added a FiTech TBFI system
  • 2 new fuel pumps (one high pressure to feed the FiTech, one lower pressure to grab from the tank)
  • New air cleaner
  • Added a VintageAir A/C system
  • Relocated the battery to the truck and installed a bypass switch for both security and if it's going to sit for any period of time
  • New MSD distributor
  • New high displacement water pump
  • New Hedman headers, required to fit the fast ratio pitman arm
  • Shaved the lip in the rear quarters where it risks cutting the tires since I have really wide tires on this thing
  • Installed the MSD box to get it to talk to the factory tach, which we later found out doesn't work and needs to be replaced
  • Probably other stuff I'm forgetting

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I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!  However, we've now discovered that the cooling system can't handle the heat load.  The prior own had a 22" crossflow radiator.  My 1970 Cuda shop manual suggests that a 383 w/ a 727 trans and A/C comes with a 26" radiator.  It's been a little scary - it cools find as-is when I'm going down the highway, holds between 190-205.  But when I'm at a light, it shoots up - FAST.  I was going to QT to get some gas the other day and it went up over 250, not good.  When it gets that hot, the starter doesn't want to turn over on restarts b/c it's also overheated.  So, I have a 26" Griffin radiator on order from Summit, plus a fan shroud, and we're also going to wrap the headers, and put in a hood to radiator and hood to cowl seal.  Hopefully that will solve the heat issue!

Did you get your heat issues solved.  Would love to see this thing out.

I just ordered some DBA shorty headers for the Mustang to address the exhaust leak.  Anyone have input on gaskets?

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1 minute ago, TexasEd said:

Did you get your heat issues solved.  Would love to see this thing out.

I just ordered some DBA shorty headers for the Mustang to address the exhaust leak.  Anyone have input on gaskets?

I've read lots of posts on this on another forum (allfordmustangs.com).  The guys who post, and do install work all say no gasket.  The manifolds, and headers will heat seal to each other. The gaskets are a weak link according to them.  

I've done the header route a few times, and have always found them to be a pain.  On this last Mustang I bought a set of '65 Shelby HI PO exhaust manifolds instead.  Literally bolt on with only about an 1/8" shaving of one engine mount.

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10 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Did you get your heat issues solved.  Would love to see this thing out.

I just ordered some DBA shorty headers for the Mustang to address the exhaust leak.  Anyone have input on gaskets?

I wouldn't say "solved," but I think it's as good as it's going to get.  We did heat wrap on the headers, bigger radiator, upgraded fan (plus a supplemental electric fan for the A/C), it's fully tuned now.  Going down the highway it will settle in around 190 degrees when moving.  At a stop light, it will wander up to 210, maybe 220 if I'm sitting awhile but then come down again pretty quick.  I'm not going to be driving it a lot in stop and go traffic but it does make me think about taking it out between 2p - 7p in the summertime if I'm going to hit lights.

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2 minutes ago, Horn of Gabriel said:

I wouldn't say "solved," but I think it's as good as it's going to get.  We did heat wrap on the headers, bigger radiator, upgraded fan (plus a supplemental electric fan for the A/C), it's fully tuned now.  Going down the highway it will settle in around 190 degrees when moving.  At a stop light, it will wander up to 210, maybe 220 if I'm sitting awhile but then come down again pretty quick.  I'm not going to be driving it a lot in stop and go traffic but it does make me think about taking it out between 2p - 7p in the summertime if I'm going to hit lights.

Do you have a traditional or aluminum radiator ?  I've also read that more coils isn't always a good thing. Fewer coils allows more heat dissipation with more space around each coil. I think that's the logic.

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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Horn of Gabriel said:

I wouldn't say "solved," but I think it's as good as it's going to get.  We did heat wrap on the headers, bigger radiator, upgraded fan (plus a supplemental electric fan for the A/C), it's fully tuned now.  Going down the highway it will settle in around 190 degrees when moving.  At a stop light, it will wander up to 210, maybe 220 if I'm sitting awhile but then come down again pretty quick.  I'm not going to be driving it a lot in stop and go traffic but it does make me think about taking it out between 2p - 7p in the summertime if I'm going to hit lights.

Do you have a shroud on it?  

  

Just now, Onboard 2.0 said:

Do you have a traditional or aluminum radiator ?  I've also read that more coils isn't always a good thing. Fewer coils allows more heat dissipation with more space around each coil. I think that's the logic.

Yes, tube size can be more important than number of rows.

Edited by TexasEd
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13 minutes ago, Onboard 2.0 said:

Do you have a traditional or aluminum radiator ?  I've also read that more coils isn't always a good thing. Fewer coils allows more heat dissipation with more space around each coil. I think that's the logic.

We went back to the OEM style 26" radiator.  It's a Griffin ExactFit, it is aluminum but it's down flow instead of the undersized cross flow that was in there.

 

14 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Do you have a shroud on it?  

Yes, we have a shroud on it now.

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I know racers who use the old RTV trick for headers but I've never personally used it. I've had great luck with remflex gaskets though. They crush as you tighten them and never leak. The key IMO is to make sure the flange of the header/manifold is straight and true and it will affect your seal.

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1 hour ago, mulletpelini said:

Am I reading that right we're not putting gaskets between the header and the head now?  Wow if so.  I'm no expert, just think I am.

After some research I'll use a Remflex or Felpro 1400 series

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On 3/22/2021 at 5:20 PM, TexasEd said:

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That's cool. My dad and I had one of those, ours was a 1929, about 30 years ago. It was great fun.

The only issue we had was when the gas tank would run down the fuel got clogged a bit from the sludge in the tank. 

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1 hour ago, PittsburghTiger said:

That's cool. My dad and I had one of those, ours was a 1929, about 30 years ago. It was great fun.

The only issue we had was when the gas tank would run down the fuel got clogged a bit from the sludge in the tank. 

My grandma was born in 1919 and used to drive a model A.  She saw one that was 1929 (10 years younger than her) about 8 years ago and I caught her picture with it (Hers was black).

I think it was this car she attributed it to but the fuel sender was in the front of the tank so when it got low on gas she would back it up hills to keep it from starving the engine.

 

1929 Model A and Grandma_zpsguzlmznl.jpg

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Not only did I get to share a picture of my grandma but it’s also new parts day!

 

new JBA shorty headers, new battery cables, and a reproduction steering wheel to keep my interior stock appearance. 
 

now to turn some wrenches and install my first set of headers. 

6F6C2211-F4DA-4A6C-A383-73F7D4BD8FEA.jpeg

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Did a couple rides today. Have been pushing 100k. Watching the odometer as I cruise the sunset this evening. Pull over right as I roll 99999.9 and pull the phone out.  Roll to a stop perfectly timed to capture the moment. Mother fucking phone battery dies and denies me my shot. 

812-C6-A64-C06-B-42-A7-84-CE-64-CC5631-C

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1 hour ago, Anastasis said:

Did a couple rides today. Have been pushing 100k. Watching the odometer as I cruise the sunset this evening. Pull over right as I roll 99999.9 and pull the phone out.  Roll to a stop perfectly timed to capture the moment. Mother fucking phone battery dies and denies me my shot. 

812-C6-A64-C06-B-42-A7-84-CE-64-CC5631-C

People who can‚ÄĚt keep their phone charged don‚Äôt deserve nice things.

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Looking for exhaust advice for the 1992 Blazer. It’s all original but want to to have nicer rumble, nothing too loud/annoying. I know there are lots of options for the 90s base chevy v8s, thoughts?

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35 minutes ago, Bo said:

Looking for exhaust advice for the 1992 Blazer. It’s all original but want to to have nicer rumble, nothing too loud/annoying. I know there are lots of options for the 90s base chevy v8s, thoughts?

Since it's original, headers won't do much for the price you would pay. It's old enough that you can ditch the cats, and put on a Magnaflow straight through muffler. Could probably have all of that done for $300.

CHIEF

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On 3/27/2021 at 9:02 PM, Anastasis said:

Did a couple rides today. Have been pushing 100k. Watching the odometer as I cruise the sunset this evening. Pull over right as I roll 99999.9 and pull the phone out.  Roll to a stop perfectly timed to capture the moment. Mother fucking phone battery dies and denies me my shot. 

812-C6-A64-C06-B-42-A7-84-CE-64-CC5631-C

Should have just plugged it into one of the charging ports duh

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7 minutes ago, mulletpelini said:

Should have just plugged it into one of the charging ports duh

The really fucked up thing is that my resto'd original AM/FM stereo actually has charging capabilities, but I was not motivated enough to fuck with cramming the wiring in and leaving the dongle with the charging port under the console. Something about not deserving nice things. 

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Posted (edited)

OK, so side question. How offensive if at all is it to ask the shop if you can supply parts? I assume they will increase the labor rate?

ETA: Actually wasn't as bad as initially thought when I did a quick online parts search, only really one component (control valve) was seriously marked up and that might just be a sourcing issue for them but it was the first one I searched and jumped out immediately. 

 

Another question: Anyone done a Borgeson power steering conversion on their car?  I am thinking about just dumping the ford system which is just going to start leaking again and swapping for the integral unit.  

Edited by Anastasis
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Posted (edited)

So this weekend I'm finally taking possession of my late mom's 1971 Skylark convertible that has been sitting under a cover in my stepmom's garage for almost four years now since my dad died.

There was a mouse infestation (you may recall my dad's ruined emergency shart kit posted upthread somewhere) and I think they also got into the heater core, as it overheated the last time I drove it a couple of years ago. I'm having it flatbedded 175 miles and straight to the local guy who is going to give it a once-over for me. 

I plan on having him replace the heater core and any other critical items, but otherwise I just plan on servicing the brakes, changing out the fluids, etc. I need to keep the first bill as lean as possible in order to not ruffle Mrs. Doom's feathers too much too soon. Long game and all that... 

However, I wanted to gather opinions on whether there's any point in trying to upgrade the seat belts. The car was restored when it came into the family back in 1982 or 83, and both parents managed to inflict enough various harms, insults, and minor damage to it over the years that it's a driver that can be both driven and publicly parked without too much worrying. So no worries about keeping it mint. 

It's got shitty old lap belts front and back, but without a B-pillar, is there really any point in "upgrading"? Is that even possible? 

Edited by Prepuce of Doom
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Of all the things that I would restore on a car, seatbelts are down the list. Here's why, they just don't go bad unless there is tears, cuts, or fraying material. Remember your in a car that was built like a tank and can handle a wreck unlike the cars of today.

I'm not familiar with Buick seatbelts but some folks restore them. Hit the forums and ask the ol timers.

I'd focus on all rubber lines, brakes fuel, cooling, power steering, etc as those are all important. Changed those babies out and a good tune-up and you got a nice cruiser. Any pix?



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Thanks! 

I'll mainly just drive it around within a few miles of home, puttering around doing errands, etc. Longest regular drive I expect to make with any degree of frequency will be on surface streets to the inlaws about 10-12 miles away, but that's a little ways off. 

Mrs. Doom is nervous about letting the Doomlet ride in it, at least until he's large enough to no longer require a car seat or booster. And I don't think there's much sense in trying to find something like that for this car, so it'll be a year or two before it can reasonably function as a family car. 

Here's the only good picture that I can easily find.

10373.jpeg

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As far as seat belts go, I put new ones in my ride to color match the interior.  I took one of the belts that were in the front, and installed it in the back so that I could have three kids belted in. Don't know if it takes me out of contention for father of the year rolling my family around in a 50 year old convertible with old two point seat belts or not, but I was probably never high in contention to place anyways. 

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On 3/30/2021 at 10:03 PM, Anastasis said:

OK, so side question. How offensive if at all is it to ask the shop if you can supply parts? I assume they will increase the labor rate?

ETA: Actually wasn't as bad as initially thought when I did a quick online parts search, only really one component (control valve) was seriously marked up and that might just be a sourcing issue for them but it was the first one I searched and jumped out immediately. 

 

Another question: Anyone done a Borgeson power steering conversion on their car?  I am thinking about just dumping the ford system which is just going to start leaking again and swapping for the integral unit.  

I have the borgesson system and love it.

Better steering and doesn't leak

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 The first thing I did when I bought my convertible Mustang was three point seatbelts.  That is an inexpensive and very very cheap insurance policy for those older cars.  lap belts are dangerous and you increase your chance of surviving an accident with  less potential injuries, especially the driver and a steering wheel impact

 

Seat head rests or another thing that I think are a good way to avoid some really serious rear end collision injury. 

 

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