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Mojo Hand

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I had a big section of exposed foundation near our mudroom entry that I was having a tough time figuring out how to deal with.  It was kind of narrow, so it was gonna be hard to do any big plants to soften the space.  I had some 1/4" steel plate cut to spec, then welded up a raised planter box.  16" deep and about 36" high.  I forgot to take pics during the build, but I used 1x1x1/8" angle iron to stiffen everything up and cross-brace it.  Finished it with Penetrol as a clear coat.  It'll take some maintenance, but I didn't want it to rust out, and I didn't want to paint it.  Planted a few smaller plants, and hoping the rosemary spills over.  May do some ivy at the base too.  Still need to fill in the gap between the steps and the box with some decomposed granite or mulch if I go with the ivy, but really happy with how it turned out.  

IMG_2441.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Spaulding Smails said:

I had a big section of exposed foundation near our mudroom entry that I was having a tough time figuring out how to deal with.  It was kind of narrow, so it was gonna be hard to do any big plants to soften the space.  I had some 1/4" steel plate cut to spec, then welded up a raised planter box.  16" deep and about 36" high.  I forgot to take pics during the build, but I used 1x1x1/8" angle iron to stiffen everything up and cross-brace it.  Finished it with Penetrol as a clear coat.  It'll take some maintenance, but I didn't want it to rust out, and I didn't want to paint it.  Planted a few smaller plants, and hoping the rosemary spills over.  May do some ivy at the base too.  Still need to fill in the gap between the steps and the box with some decomposed granite or mulch if I go with the ivy, but really happy with how it turned out.  

IMG_2441.jpeg


Pretty damn fine solution.  You added drainage holes, right?

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2 hours ago, blacklab said:

where did you get the steel plate? How much was it? 

I'm looking for some for a smoker I'm building and everything I'm seeing is stupid expensive.

Westbrook Metals.  I think it was about $1,800 for all the materials including the cuts on the plate.  Way more expensive than the last significant build I did 3-4 years ago.  Easily double what I was thinking.  

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56 minutes ago, thunderlounge said:


Pretty damn fine solution.  You added drainage holes, right?

Yep.  Drainage holes on both sides.  But it also sits under an overhang and has lots of 2" bull rock that I had left over from another project in the bottom, so it should drain well regardless.  I don't have irrigation yet, but also ran a sleeve of PVC vertically with a 90 and a hole in the bottom to pull drip irrigation through eventually.  Already tired of hand watering it.

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Back when I moved into the current house, I built a deck rail box out of cedar.

Lined the bottom with pond liner, and put (2) 4” drain tiles from end to end in the bottom.

Then put a 1/2” hole through one end for a horizontal pipe overflow, top of hole even with top of tile, and put a vertical pipe about 6” taller than the side, that went through the top of one of the drain tiles. This was the fill pipe.

Covered the drain tile with old t-shirts, and put dirt in it.

 

Self watering, took the hose to it every week or so until it just started to come out the overflow.
 

It finally met its demise last summer when we rebuilt the deck. 12 years of service, can’t complain (other than what it would cost to do the same now.)


When I move in a few years, I’ll definitely be incorporating similar where called for. 

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Not finished still a good amount to do, but sized it up and got the drawers and drawer fronts installed.  

I built the top piece to go on as well.  

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Built the top shelving and above that will be my rack mount for my media server.

First coat of paint on, hope to have it all done by Friday.  Might get a bug up my ass and install the drawer pulls tonight

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3a641e068ee0b4a0485d0a9f89e612c7.jpeg

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On 4/9/2024 at 8:05 PM, uoftorange said:

Not finished still a good amount to do, but sized it up and got the drawers and drawer fronts installed.  

I built the top piece to go on as well.  

image.thumb.jpeg.a44da8c903b96afebc238083b2d4ef0b.jpeg

Built the top shelving and above that will be my rack mount for my media server.

First coat of paint on, hope to have it all done by Friday.  Might get a bug up my ass and install the drawer pulls tonight

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3a641e068ee0b4a0485d0a9f89e612c7.jpeg

Hiding cash under your shoe in a clear box, huh? 
 

That looks great.  Following because full closet is in my list. But I don’t have the talents for this.  If wife would let me weld something up, I’d be in business. 

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14 minutes ago, fattyflattie said:

Hiding cash under your shoe in a clear box, huh? 
 

That looks great.  Following because full closet is in my list. But I don’t have the talents for this.  If wife would let me weld something up, I’d be in business. 

Actually it's some extra insoles lol.  They work amazing in Jordan's and dunks.  

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And I got that bug and went hard after it.  Painted the last coat on the top box late last night.  Then painted the wall, etc.  Got it all installed and cleaned up!  I'm pretty excited to be done with it.  I can start putting my closet back together now

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image.thumb.jpeg.e33ebd78f30a4be5483091a24a8815be.jpeg

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15 hours ago, Gil Bang said:

We bought a sink that came with a bamboo cutting board.  The board is looking a little funky.  Can I sand and oil to refresh? 

You can - though by "funky" do you mean it's splitting? Or just grimy from food?

I try to sand + refinish our built in cutting board about yearly. One round of 120 grit + food safe finish and it's back to new. I've used Tried and True Danish Oil in the past for this.

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1 hour ago, Jkwellborn said:

You build or buy that flattening set up?

Build - I converted my Lowrider CNC setup that I rarely used so a lot of the work was already done. That and I despise my jointer so needed an alternative. 

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Sanding actually going faster than expected. Just have the little peninsula left to do. And all the shelves, lower doors and drawers. And painting. But at least my kitchen will be back to semi-functional, if empty, soon enough.

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On 9/3/2018 at 5:25 PM, NateHitch said:

Had a patio cover installed about 6 months ago and starting to see some pot holes in the concrete. These are the biggest ones, there's 3 more but they aren't too bad. Don't have much experience with this, is this normal? I want to seal it when it gets cooler. Can I fill them with something or should I call the patio cover guy? 65e0902bbd39b29c836fb7672127b980.jpg

Too much water, finishing waaay too long. 

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On 10/20/2018 at 1:08 PM, Onboard 2.0 said:

Dig the look, the bulbs will set you back a bit more than the lumber.  

RR ties are heavy as shit.  Yer gonna need structural support in your ceiling to carry the weight probably.  I'd look at something without the weight issues first.

Darned sure don't need creosote in the house either. 

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The saga continues! I've got the top done, except for sanding and painting shelves. Still have all the bottom doors/drawers to do, but painting the boxes moved pretty quick up top, so should have that done on the bottom by early next week.

20240424_110721.jpg

Also, anyone have experience installing floating shelves onto tile backsplash? Is it as simple as having the proper drill bit, going slow and keeping it wet?

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I bought an X-carve, or really traded for it, 3 months or so ago and it's just been sitting there.  I finally had an idea for it.  My oldest son is graduating high school.  For all of his close friends I'm carving the college logo they are going to and some lines for traction plus their initials.  Outside of a bunch and starts and stops on getting good images for the design it's gone very well.  

I'll put some pics up once I'm done, or get some time before then.  

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4 hours ago, CycleTex87 said:

What does the "P" stand for?

It's the logo of my wife's salon.  She has a pop up shop she always does and the women are always looking for gifts for their husbands.  Thought that could be representative to sell some of them.


I got the Odie's oil on all of them.  Turned out great if I do say so myself. 

 image.thumb.jpeg.b6bde792420605428ffe93336c1b4cb3.jpeg

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Only negative (I guess you'd call it that) was my router in my router table died.  Had to go buy a new one.  The new one is much smoother and half the volume of the old one.  

Which one died? What did you replace it with?
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12 hours ago, uoftorange said:

Only negative (I guess you'd call it that) was my router in my router table died.  Had to go buy a new one.  The new one is much smoother and half the volume of the old one.  

My CNC had similar issues - they are hell on routers and bits. I went through a lot of bits and 2 routers and really didn't use it THAT much.

That being said, it was fun to watch it in action.

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On 4/24/2024 at 11:09 AM, hookem2010 said:

The saga continues! I've got the top done, except for sanding and painting shelves. Still have all the bottom doors/drawers to do, but painting the boxes moved pretty quick up top, so should have that done on the bottom by early next week.

20240424_110721.jpg

Also, anyone have experience installing floating shelves onto tile backsplash? Is it as simple as having the proper drill bit, going slow and keeping it wet?

Are you hand painting the cabinets?  Just brush?  Roller?

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8 hours ago, Okie State said:

All your pictures of the cabinet painting bring back bad memories for me. We had a ridiculous amount of doors and drawers and that shit took me forever.

No kidding. The previous owner put black cabinets in kitchen and I wanted white. Plus for no good reason he put small cabinets around the top with doors about a foot square. Fourteen of them! I sprayed all the doors and rolled the surrounding stuff. It took 4 coats. If i were to do it again I would have sealed off the kitchen and sprayed instead of rolling. I thought it might take 2 coats to cover but 4 was a real pain

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Rolling wasn't so bad, except for inside the cabinets, but I wasn't too particular other than getting decent coverage near the opening. Liking the two-tone look so far. Going to start sanding shelves and the top doors are done, so the top should be fully done in the next week or so.

362d08be-c830-43ca-88ed-eeac71aad572.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 5/1/2024 at 6:23 AM, Jkwellborn said:


Which one died? What did you replace it with?

It was a 15 year old Hitachi that was still kicking. 

Bought a Bosch 1617EVSPK, all the guys at Rockler personally used it too and liked it a lot.  I'm really impressed with the smoothness and quietness of it

 

On 5/1/2024 at 9:18 AM, dieucla98 said:

My CNC had similar issues - they are hell on routers and bits. I went through a lot of bits and 2 routers and really didn't use it THAT much.

That being said, it was fun to watch it in action.

It was the one in my router table actually, the one in the XCarve is a Makita that seems to be pretty solid so far.  

 

On another note:

Anyone have a recommendation on good hole saws?  The Milwaukee ones I've been using forever are fine, but I'd like something a bit tougher

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On 5/2/2024 at 1:25 PM, uoftorange said:

 

Anyone have a recommendation on good hole saws?  The Milwaukee ones I've been using forever are fine, but I'd like something a bit tougher

Hole saw bits are consumables, they wear much faster than a regular saw blade,,,, having said that, try the Diablo's. Am very happy with all go their products

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My farmette runs on a well that is 120' deep with 60' of standing water. The 220v 3/4hp pump is suspended 85'down. I put this one in the hole in 2009 to replace the original pump the well driller installed in 1990. Easy Peasy.  Took a shower Sunday night and the wife watered her garden so it was all working. A big storm with 100 mph straight winds blew through that night and the pump wasn't working when I got up the next morning. There were a couple of close lightning strikes during the storm so I checked the control box and the pressure switch for damage. The switch was blackened but showed continuity with a meter. The control box looks like new and the breaker at the panel wasn't tripped. I figured that the pump was fried and bought a replacement from Menard's in Wichita, I was there for a Dr visit anyway. Last night, a buddy and I pulled the pump and put the replacement on, dropped it back into the hole. It came with a new control box so I replaced the old one. I flipped the breaker and... nothing. All that heavy lifting for nothing.

I called a friend this morning that drills and installs wells for geothermal to come out and check my work with his meter. Everything in the basement is wired correctly and juice is flowing properly. We went to the well head 200 yds out in the pasture and found that we had 240v at the top. His theory is that the wires from the top of the well to the pump must be bad even though a cursory examination didn't cause any alarm before we put it back in the hole. It's either that or Menard's sold me a faulty pump. Not unheard of but not very likely either. If it's the wire that is bad, the pump that was replaced should still work so I'm going to wire it up in my basement and see if it spins before I get another pump. If it runs or not, I will pull the pump again and check for continuity from the top end of the wires to the pump. I will probably replace them anyway but I gotta know. My well guy said I could fire up the pump to see if it runs before I put it back in the hole as long as it doesn't run for very long without being submerged. We will damn sure check continuity all the way to the pump before it goes back in the hole.

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So, when I'm grilling, I prefer to cook with lump charcoal using the cooking grates on my outdoor bbq pit.

HOWEVER, my wife really likes the convenience of the propane grill that came built in to the then-new outdoor kitchen when we bought our house 12 years ago.  It worked well for many years, but unfortunately time hasn't been all that kind to the grill-- most of the burners are corroded and burned out, the igniter doesn't work, the knobs have all basically melted to the point of near uselessness, and on one of the valves/knobs, if you attempt to light that particular burner, flame will come shooting back out of the valve and around the knob, directly onto the human standing next to the grill.  None of these are good, ovbviously.

So I was thinking, man, that grill's a mess, we should just buy a new one.  Well, searching up on the web, the exact replacement for this BBQs Galore Grand Turbo model, is $4,000.  So after I got my eyes back into my head, I was thinking, "maybe a cheaper model exists."  But about the cheapest I can find that would fit the same opening in the outdoor kitchen countertop, is still something like $2,400.

So now I'm thinking, I'm really cheap, and I wonder what it would take to repair it?  Many of the parts are available online, but not necessarily all of them.  At a minimum it's going to take new burners, new carryover tubes, new knobs, new igniter, and new ceramics for the vaporizer/flavorizer tray.  Depending on the issue with the valve that shoots flame outward toward the humans instead of inward toward the food, it might need valve replacement, or it might just need venturi tube cleaning.  Also much of the mounting apparatus inside the grill has corroded and turned to dust, so it might require the purchase or fabrication of some new mounting pieces.  Luckily the exterior of the stainless grill and all of its grates., are still in excellent shape.

I'm planning on posting up my progress here for anyone interested, and also, if any of you have experience doing this and know where to find obscure parts, please let me know.

TL; DR -- I'm rehabbing my 13-15 year old BBQs Galore built-in Grand Turbo propane grill, any help is appreciated or if you just want to laugh at me that's okay too.  

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Was out of town last week, so I only just resumed my work on the cabinets. Waiting for the last couple shelves to cure, but started to put up my doors. I'm really pleased overall, except the fit is just slightly off on some of the doors. I'm not sure if they were this way before (certainly possible, all I could see was the painful honey oak), or if not keeping track of specific hinges threw it off just a little bit. Any suggestions to perfect the alignment?

17164022533638251351531133282711.jpg

1716402272828252538445763469184.jpg

17164022922055142874177289311720.jpg

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24 minutes ago, hookem2010 said:

Was out of town last week, so I only just resumed my work on the cabinets. Waiting for the last couple shelves to cure, but started to put up my doors. I'm really pleased overall, except the fit is just slightly off on some of the doors. I'm not sure if they were this way before (certainly possible, all I could see was the painful honey oak), or if not keeping track of specific hinges threw it off just a little bit. Any suggestions to perfect the alignment?

17164022533638251351531133282711.jpg

1716402272828252538445763469184.jpg

17164022922055142874177289311720.jpg

Given the relatively small amount of doors, you may want to consider upgrading hinges.  Look at Blum.  You can get adjustable, soft-close hinges.  Easy to install and adjust to get them dialed in and perfectly leveled.  

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2 hours ago, utee94 said:

So, when I'm grilling, I prefer to cook with lump charcoal using the cooking grates on my outdoor bbq pit.

HOWEVER, my wife really likes the convenience of the propane grill that came built in to the then-new outdoor kitchen when we bought our house 12 years ago.  It worked well for many years, but unfortunately time hasn't been all that kind to the grill-- most of the burners are corroded and burned out, the igniter doesn't work, the knobs have all basically melted to the point of near uselessness, and on one of the valves/knobs, if you attempt to light that particular burner, flame will come shooting back out of the valve and around the knob, directly onto the human standing next to the grill.  None of these are good, ovbviously.

So I was thinking, man, that grill's a mess, we should just buy a new one.  Well, searching up on the web, the exact replacement for this BBQs Galore Grand Turbo model, is $4,000.  So after I got my eyes back into my head, I was thinking, "maybe a cheaper model exists."  But about the cheapest I can find that would fit the same opening in the outdoor kitchen countertop, is still something like $2,400.

So now I'm thinking, I'm really cheap, and I wonder what it would take to repair it?  Many of the parts are available online, but not necessarily all of them.  At a minimum it's going to take new burners, new carryover tubes, new knobs, new igniter, and new ceramics for the vaporizer/flavorizer tray.  Depending on the issue with the valve that shoots flame outward toward the humans instead of inward toward the food, it might need valve replacement, or it might just need venturi tube cleaning.  Also much of the mounting apparatus inside the grill has corroded and turned to dust, so it might require the purchase or fabrication of some new mounting pieces.  Luckily the exterior of the stainless grill and all of its grates., are still in excellent shape.

I'm planning on posting up my progress here for anyone interested, and also, if any of you have experience doing this and know where to find obscure parts, please let me know.

TL; DR -- I'm rehabbing my 13-15 year old BBQs Galore built-in Grand Turbo propane grill, any help is appreciated or if you just want to laugh at me that's okay too.  


Lang makes a drop-in version for outdoor kitchens. IIRC one of the options is their hybrid setup with half being set up for charcoal grilling. 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks.  I'm perfectly fine continuing to use my pit as a charcoal grill and let the wife use the propane grill in the outdoor kitchen.  Just have to get it working.  She said she's okay with me picking up a Blackstone, but not until the patio propane grill is fully operational.

So, I have some motivation here... :)

 

Edited by utee94
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