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Classic Car thread


TexasEd

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51 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Reminds me of a picture I once saw about a camping trip to Yellowstone with an old open top car that had rows of seats like that. For some reason I thought it was Teddy Roosevelt 

Pretty standard safari setup.  Spent a week in the bush in one of these.

IMG_0058.thumb.jpeg.fd27f29e773976e2985ebb7113a206d2.jpeg

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2 hours ago, TexasEd said:

Reminds me of a picture I once saw about a camping trip to Yellowstone with an old open top car that had rows of seats like that. For some reason I thought it was Teddy Roosevelt 

Note the snaps for the canvas top along the edge of the roof. 
Those stretch cars were good for viewing the mountains in the national parks.

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11 hours ago, Armybrat said:

154A17EE-22DD-4992-B653-68DE61A33B8C.webp

Karnack ISD had one very similar to this in the early "80s.  One year our freshman baseball team played their varsity team.  Karnack did not have their own field so we played at the Longhorn Ammunition Plant's baseball field inside the secure area.  All they had was a backstop and benches.  The field of play was where they mowed.  They would not let personal vehicles inside the facility so what few fans that were there had to walk in and the two teams took this bus looking vehicle in.

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On 9/21/2022 at 6:39 PM, Anastasis said:

Crawled up under there. Return hose kinked and split.

Witness the stupidity of this PS system.

I have never fucked with the PS before myself.  This part is very cheap.  What is the worst that could happen, it is just the steering?

 

33146637-C336-48-B4-B650-D6-D50-A5204-F6

 

 B67-BD475-D282-4-FF4-9-E5-E-864-DA18770-

 

1464-FEF9-A6-C6-4746-8-CD0-03-B070-AE26-

 

 

On 9/22/2022 at 4:59 PM, Anastasis said:

I think that the root cause of the problem was using a small block PS return hose but big block routing (under the frame and up, instead of up the shock tower).  The metal fitting appears to come off at different angle up, thus the kink in the hose. At least that is my diagnosis. It was switched to BB routing to avoid some non-original exhaust manifolds. 

 

Ford PS system talk never going away apparently. Went the lazy way last time. Took to a mechanic and he just tried to adjust the return line. Looks like 18 months later and we are back at the same place. Kinked return line, puddle of fluid. This time in the driveway though instead of the garage. Further inspection and research indicates that, in addition to using the wrong return line fitting, the original mechanic that rebuilt the system did not use the correct hose bracket. He used a small block bracket and just kind of half assed it. This, in combination with using the wrong return line looks like it is going to fail every few thousand miles. I spent a bit of time this afternoon under there trying to see if there was a routing solution that might work, but I couldn't see it. The return line fitting was even making some contact with the control line fittings at full turn. So I ordered the right parts and am going to just do the swap myself. I don't know why, but this PS system makes my OCD go nuts. 

Mount as installed. Note the 45 degree angle coming off the mounting point for the lower arm and the location of the bolt on the side. 

IMG-2818.jpg


 

This is what it is suppose to look like. Pic from opposite side, but note the bolt mounting position. versus above and the bracket is parallel to the lower mount and the pavement.  Apparently you have to drill out two holes in the lower arm mount on the small blocks to use the big block bracket. Prior mechanic just used the small block bracket that has a different shape and bolted it into a volunteer hole on the side lower arm mount. Maybe lazy, maybe stupid. At this point doesn't matter. 

image.png.edf55eff6d23c5201828d97353f6e1ac.png

 

Another angle that gives you a look at the control valve.  

image.png.8365e5d62d8fc72f985cdb0d1ad56747.png

 

 

So here is a question. @Mach 1 @TexasEd @Mother mopar and any others. Any best practices when it comes to mounting the new return line fitting to the control valve. I understand no tape, no dope, just let the fitting do the work? Anything special to do to reseat it or time it. It's low pressure side if I understand correctly so maybe I am overthinking it. Just sick of ps fluid on the floor.  

Edited by Anastasis
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Damn that PS system makes me want to grab a cutting torch.

Correct, no dope, thread seller, etc. The metal fitting should work as designed via compression. If it does leak, I give it a snug check, but be very careful as those metal lines twist and end up kinking easily.

*Update,

After thinking, take a look at the end of the compression fitting and see if it has a oring cutout at the tip. If so then it gets a small oring on it, before tightening the fitting. Dodge trucks are notorious for this.



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On 3/11/2024 at 8:44 PM, Anastasis said:

So here is a question. @Mach 1 @TexasEd @Mother mopar and any others. Any best practices when it comes to mounting the new return line fitting to the control valve. I understand no tape, no dope, just let the fitting do the work? Anything special to do to reseat it or time it. It's low pressure side if I understand correctly so maybe I am overthinking it. Just sick of ps fluid on the floor.  

Call Dan at Chockostang.  He is a small mom and pop shop (Carol is the "mom") side.  He has more experience with these systems than anyone else.  He sells the parts and tells you how to install them.

http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

I have not had these issues with mine.  I have a small block and I use the bracket you showed in your pictures.  Mine looks close to the same shape as yours.  The tab at the top left goes into an aligning hole and the hole in the top middle is to connect to the frame rail.  I do know that when I installed the lines to my control valve I had to install and uninstall several times to get the hard lines lined up the way I wanted them.  It was not easy.

Here is the salvage one I used before I cleaned it up.  You can see a piece of cut line going through the rubber insulator in the clamp. 

20141230_190244_zpsvig29aio.jpg.747b1788ce6a0076bc8b514e66640bf8.jpg

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On 3/11/2024 at 8:44 PM, Anastasis said:

 

IMG-2818.jpg

Looking at this picture again there are problems with how your bracket is installed.  It looks like it is in backwards.  It should be parallel to the ground and the bolt you can see it it should be towards the oil pan not towards the wheel.  Look at this image again which is at the front of the car looking back.  Yours looks like it is under the driver's floor looking forward.  

image.png

 

You need to listen to Missy Elliot and flip it and reverse it.

 

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8 hours ago, TexasEd said:

Looking at this picture again there are problems with how your bracket is installed.  It looks like it is in backwards.  It should be parallel to the ground and the bolt you can see it it should be towards the oil pan not towards the wheel.  Look at this image again which is at the front of the car looking back.  Yours looks like it is under the driver's floor looking forward.  

Yep, good eye. The problem is it is the wrong bracket. The one installed is the first, the proper one for this routing is the second. It was the right notion. Run the hoses under the suspension as is done on the 65-66 and the 69+. But they used the wrong bracket and the wrong return line. Got the new parts in. Might fuck with it tomorrow afternoon. 

image.png.1d326b1aa10ceef845104c8846718bb3.png

image.png.5c7cfd9dbc4f0e3c32b3f2b164166467.png

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PS saga, dateline 03/20/24

Y'all just gonna have to put up with me live blogging the ongoing attacks of the Evil One.

Finally got around to installing the bracket situation. This part had me a bit nervous cause it involved drilled out some mounting holes into the suspension mounts. 

Removed old bracket. View from rear and from front of old bracket mount point. 

IMG-2951.jpg

IMG-2956.jpg

 

 

Drilled out the holes.  This actually went really well. Had a right angle adapter for my drill and some short drill bits based on some of the stuff I had read online. Step up the holes and got everything lined up pretty easy. Bracket on and we're in business. Note the high pressure line in 2nd pic, we'll come back to that in a minute. Note bolt length on the third pic, anyone think that it is in realm of possibility that the lower arm can articulate far enough to strike that? Looks ok, but might grab a smaller bolt and change it out anyways.

IMG-3035.jpg

IMG-3044.jpg

IMG-3045.jpg

 

Old return fitting removed from control valve, side by side with the new concours line. See how fubar this situation was.

IMG-3052.jpg

 

 

Got the new line on, weaved them through the bracket, got that whole situation put back together and thought that we were on the last turn. Had my son jump in and give the wheel a few turns from stop to stop and just was not happy with what was happening at full lock with the high pressure supply line. It moves quite a bit in the bracket (should be locked in), and doesn't appear to be clocked just right coming off the control valve. Did some further inspection and found a bad rub point that was occurring at close to full lock, which was already starting a eat into the hose.

Long story short, I've now convinced myself to replace the high pressure side with a matching concours supply line. It should interface correctly with the bracket to prevent the movement, and hopefully put this situation to rest. I was going to just replace both from the get go, but the high quality pressure side line is fairly expensive for a PS fitting (~200 for the upper piece alone). 

I am quite confident that after I try this one, within a year I will be having someone rip it all out and put in the integrated unit just because I apparently like to light fucking money on fire over this stupid original steering system. Oh, and does anyone know if there are long terms effects to taking a full blast of power steering fluid in your eye?  

 

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Here's a pic of the rub point I found. The entire hose was wrapped in that heat shield, so it rubbed through that and then started working into the line. If not for this rub, I would probably just try to use the upper pressure hose and see if immobilizing the lower line fixed the situation, but I find it hard to ignore risk of being stuck out somewhere in BFE blowing PS fluid out my ears. 

IMG-3075.jpg

 

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Man, I think that I have gone too far down the rabbit hole of ford PS systems and hose configurations and it is damaging my brain. 

I am thinking about frankensteining a 68 shelby gt350 upper pressure hose (only "factory" 67/68 small block that actually used the under frame routing) and the FE big block lower pressure hose with '70 hose index in the big block bracket and mounting position on a small block car. Kicker is that I don't even have headers and have a stock manifold. This all makes sense. And is normal. 

Yall 69 and later guys don't know how good you got it. Seems like some of the right out stupid shit they did with the 67/68s in particular got shaken out by 69. Looking at you rust under the spot welded cowl area.  

 

Edited by Anastasis
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More work by the restorer on this

IMG_4431-scaled.thumb.webp.596924f2f90a39d72ee41e4d1a18136f.webp

 

Got rims back

 

IMG_4925-scaled.thumb.webp.126a050882639415d341e2c5072ad5e9.webp

Tires showed up

 

TiresSmall.thumb.jpg.13987e9ce2dae79dab30dd10415d3487.jpg

And a large pile of bolts and stuff got plated.  It's not as difficult as it looks to figure out what goes where. A lot of the these are foe holding the fenders on

IMG_4935-scaled.thumb.webp.9680ba4b632527be027eae0abb5cb472.webp

Edited by AUinHsv
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20 hours ago, AUinHsv said:

More work by the restorer on this

IMG_4431-scaled.thumb.webp.596924f2f90a39d72ee41e4d1a18136f.webp

 

Got rims back

 

IMG_4925-scaled.thumb.webp.126a050882639415d341e2c5072ad5e9.webp

Tires showed up

 

TiresSmall.thumb.jpg.13987e9ce2dae79dab30dd10415d3487.jpg

And a large pile of bolts and stuff got plated.  It's not as difficult as it looks to figure out what goes where. A lot of the these are foe holding the fenders on

IMG_4935-scaled.thumb.webp.9680ba4b632527be027eae0abb5cb472.webp

I’d like to see a picture of the rims standing in front of the body. I think they’ll look awesome.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, Modessit said:

Saw this tonight at a restaurant in Manor:

41c52a0098fc8efe70bffd0338e19ca2.jpg

Yeah, watch out for that one.

 

(I know, wrong car but I don't pick up corn snakes either)

Edited by TexasEd
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11 hours ago, Modessit said:

Saw this tonight at a restaurant in Manor:

41c52a0098fc8efe70bffd0338e19ca2.jpg

Such a cooler car as a 2-door. There's a black 2-door in neighborhood which I see once in a blue moon. Even longer to see a red '68 GTO which lives down the street - original owner, a Nebraska fan.

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No idea if it is still there but from 2000-2010 or so the Marriott at the Alamo had a mid sixties suicide door Lincoln sitting in the entrance area. It also had an Impeach Nixon bumper stick on the rear bumper.

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And if anyone worries about the authenticity of the Vette it's a 1967 427 tri-power L71 which ~4,000 were made in total.

28k miles
It is a true survivor not a restoration
image.thumb.png.6da3308d9b8b500505537b44a65311f7.png
From my limited Chevy experience, didn't the tri power carb, intake set up come in the trunk when new? That's why there are so many more tri power cars nowadays than was actually made? Something along the lines of it's hard to actually verify a vette came with that setup?

This isn't me hating. I love all muscle cars, just curious from the Chevy folks. Ps I'm a fan of multi carb cars
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22 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:


That shit will make you sick. It’s not medical grade No2. They put something in it to keep people from huffing it.

I've had access to a tank that allegedly came from a speed shop and nobody got sick. A few rookies learned the importance of sitting down, but no deterrent illness. But that was over 20 years ago, so who knows... 

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Nitrous oxide (laughing gas). 

Next time I take the Skylark in, I'll ask my guy about whether there's any additive, if "racing grade" nitrous is any different than "food grade" or "medical grade" etc. - I would expect him to definitively know the answer... 

Edited by Prepuce of Doom
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Nitrous oxide (laughing gas). 
Next time I take the Skylark in, I'll ask my guy about whether there's any additive, if "racing grade" nitrous is any different than "food grade" or "medical grade" etc. - I would expect him to definitively know the answer... 
There's an additive in NOS bottles, a bitterant (s/p) added to keep folks from huffing it. I assume there are purity differences as well for medical grade stuff...duno
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