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2018 Lawn and Landscape Thread


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Any ideas on how to kill a yellowjacket nest just under my second floor roof? We have tall ceilings and there are no windows nearby. The roof is not accessible without a very tall ladder that I don’t have. The nest is probably 35’ from ground level. Can a spray go that far?

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Any ideas on how to kill a yellowjacket nest just under my second floor roof? We have tall ceilings and there are no windows nearby. The roof is not accessible without a very tall ladder that I don’t have. The nest is probably 35’ from ground level. Can a spray go that far?
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Any ideas on how to kill a yellowjacket nest just under my second floor roof? We have tall ceilings and there are no windows nearby. The roof is not accessible without a very tall ladder that I don’t have. The nest is probably 35’ from ground level. Can a spray go that far?
Think outside the box abd78c90e153022cb4ffcc7429396a1e.jpg

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On 7/18/2018 at 4:07 PM, HouTex said:

Any ideas on how to kill a yellowjacket nest just under my second floor roof? We have tall ceilings and there are no windows nearby. The roof is not accessible without a very tall ladder that I don’t have. The nest is probably 35’ from ground level. Can a spray go that far?

Leave it there.

  1. They won't bother you, if you leave them alone.  35' is very far away.
  2. They eat pest insects like tent caterpillars and killing wasps means more pesticide use.
  3. When winter comes and they are mostly dormant or gone, knock the nest down with a long pole.
  4. They are more than likely Paper Wasps and not true Yellow Jackets, we just call them Yellow jackets in Texas.  Yellow Jackets nest in holes in the ground.
Edited by TexasEd
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On 7/21/2018 at 6:20 PM, Footballpants said:

My lawn is nothing but scorched earth at this point. I'll revisit this thread in October.

Yeah, 110 for the past two days in Cowtown and lows in the mid 80's have killed everything in the back except the dallis grass.  The poa has oficially wilted to the point having me think armageddon is upon us.  Just gonna let it happen and start from scratch next spring while keeping the  bermuda alive in front.

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On 7/18/2018 at 4:07 PM, HouTex said:

Any ideas on how to kill a yellowjacket nest just under my second floor roof? We have tall ceilings and there are no windows nearby. The roof is not accessible without a very tall ladder that I don’t have. The nest is probably 35’ from ground level. Can a spray go that far?

As was stated - you need fire and lots of it and a camera. Make sure to turn the camera sideways if it is a phone

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I've been making some significant progress.  Had to treat some fungus in a few areas that are stressed.  Had to pull some grass up and resod a few places that had bad root contact and lots of rock underneath.  

Been giving the lawn a regular monthly dose of Milorganite, and top dressing the stressed areas.   This was a photo a few days after a two inch cut.   You can see that bastard nutsedge popping through already where the hose drips.

NUZOjJp.jpg

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Bioadvanced by Bayer has a liquid bottle you spray with the hose.  I thought about using granulars for a gradual treatment, but that stretch of 5 days of hard rain we had in early July and the high heat and humidity that followed kickstarted the fungus issues.  If the problem has already set in and the spots have spread to takeover entire sections of the lawn, I think a liquid application is better.  

 

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I've got an elm and some other tree that are 20+ years old dropping leaves waaaay too early. Hotter than hell of course. Is it too late to throw some extra water on them or is it too late if leaves are falling already?

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14 hours ago, Dark Horse said:

My fungus problem is out of control. I have 6 yards of compost coming Friday.

If my whole yard dies I may go the Brat route.

I had huge 10+ sq ft patches of it all over my yard after that week of rain.   I sprayed any obvious areas with the bioadvanced stuff, raked out a lot of thatch, and then top dressed the areas with dillo dirt.   Within 2-3 days the areas were green and growing again. 

The thing I have heard about most fungal diseases (at least the common ones) is that they don't actually kill your lawn.  They just hurt the blades of grass which kinda stunts the growth and discolors the lawn.  All the research I've done has said that once you get them under control, the grass will come right back.

Edited by krevo
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I had huge 10+ sq ft patches of it all over my yard after that week of rain.   I sprayed any obvious areas with the bioadvanced stuff, raked out a lot of thatch, and then top dressed the areas with dillo dirt.   Within 2-3 days the areas were green and growing again. 

The thing I have heard about most fungal diseases (at least the common ones) is that they don't actually kill your lawn.  They just hurt the blades of grass which kinda stunts the growth and discolors the lawn.  All the research I've done has said that once you get them under control, the grass will come right back.

I took way too long to recognize the problem. It started in an area that’s always had difficulty due to high shade, so I assumed it was just same old same old.
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I have a very healthy/mature agave on my devil's strip and a random guy knocked on my door said he'd buy it from me. what the hell is a fair price for it, see pics below for similar type. Mine is probably 5 ft diameter and 3 ft tall.

 

Agave_parryi_var._huachucensis_27146_l.j

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9 hours ago, bluto said:

I have a very healthy/mature agave on my devil's strip and a random guy knocked on my door said he'd buy it from me. what the hell is a fair price for it, see pics below for similar type. Mine is probably 5 ft diameter and 3 ft tall.

 

Agave_parryi_var._huachucensis_27146_l.j

Bout Tree Fiddy is reasonable 

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Timely tip from Neil Sperry

 

 

Garden Tip: This is nutsedge. Some people call it "nutgrass," but it's not a true grass. Grasses have round stems. If you roll this plant's stem between your thumb and index finger you'll feel that it's triangular.

Nutsedge spreads by underground bulb-like growths that daisy-chain themselves one to the next. That's why it's virtually impossible to pull or dig this worst of all weeds. Nutsedge dies to the ground in the winter, then comes back from those pea-sized brown "nutlets" that look like tiny coconuts. Because it's coming back from its own plant parts, pre-emergent weedkillers do nothing to stop it. 

Two products have come into the consumer market in the past 25 years offering control of nutsedge. Image and Sedgehammer (note the clever misspelling) are applied to the soil and then watered into the ground. Image needs to be applied two times with a 30-day waiting period between applications. 

 

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: Both applications of Image must be made before September 15, which means the first application must be made by August 15. Be sure you get the Image product designated for control of nutsedge. If you have questions, ask your nurseryman or hardware store sales person. Sedgehammer is not as common in the consumer market, but you do get a few extra days to apply it.

 

This is a nasty weed and it only gets worse if you leave it to spread. Before your time runs out this season, get one of these products applied. For specific questions I am going to ask that you refer to the product labels. They are quite detailed.

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Anyone have a tip on a sprayer for viscous material? I have a couple that fit on a hose and neither does a good job with thick liquids like neem oil or Safer soap. I prefer to us these less toxic insecticides if possible. The ones I have just don't seem to be able to lift the thick liquid up the tube that goes in the container. 

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On 8/11/2018 at 7:01 AM, GottaB said:

 

Timely tip from Neil Sperry

 

 

 

5dc40b4a8fcd7534e756b2622b094751.jpg

Do they make either of these options available in granular form? I've got some Sedgehammer but it's made to mix in a sprayer, and it only makes a gallon. I'm also curious if it's safe in flower beds because these bastards love popping up in my front bed. 

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On 8/11/2018 at 6:07 PM, Not that Bob said:

Anyone have a tip on a sprayer for viscous material? I have a couple that fit on a hose and neither does a good job with thick liquids like neem oil or Safer soap. I prefer to us these less toxic insecticides if possible. The ones I have just don't seem to be able to lift the thick liquid up the tube that goes in the container. 

Make sure the tube is clear. Anything left behind is going to be clogging up the system. Run a tank of plain water after you finish. I have one, a fungicide, that acts as a repellent for rabbits on flowers that's the consistency of milk of magnesia. If I don't run water through it, the hose clogs every time.

 

5 hours ago, BabaBooey said:

Do they make either of these options available in granular form? I've got some Sedgehammer but it's made to mix in a sprayer, and it only makes a gallon. I'm also curious if it's safe in flower beds because these bastards love popping up in my front bed. 

No. Certainty is rated for some ornamentals. Most of them like sedgehammer, Celsius and Certainty are very small amounts per 1000ftsq or per gallon. Sedgehammer can be had in a multiple dose bottle. It ain't cheap, but it's less than buying it in singles. 

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20 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

Run a tank of plain water after you finish.

That should be common knowledge but I bet there's a lot folks that don't.  Also, rinse out your drop or broadcast spreader after using them.  They will clog up the same way with residue.

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30 minutes ago, Not that Bob said:

I clean and maintain my equipment, but viscous liquids are a problem. Maybe it's because I am spraying trees and have to tilt the reservoir to spray upwards. Maybe I just need to keep it at least 3/4 full at all times. Pain in the butt, but may be the only way.  

If i try to spray fish emulsion I get the same problem. I just pour a bit on now and spray down with a house or mix into a 5 gallon bucket with water and dump. I havent found a great solution. It's not worth the effort to me to try and get an even spray with a thick liquid. 

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This thing. I don’t like it. What’s the smartest strategy? Beavis and Butthead style cut near the bottom?

 

I opted for the Chainsaw method. Will follow up with roundup until it dies enough for the roots to weaken and I’ll dig it out.

 

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We redesigned some landscaping recently and planted sod where we removed some shrubs and a crepe myrtle.  I'm having to water every day to get the grass growing good due to no rain.  

How long can until I can start mowing the new St Augustine sod?  A few weeks?  I remember it being a while last time I did it at our old house.

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Not really. Ortho is fine. There's not a lot of variation in the three way stuff. I would test the quinclorac kicker versions before hosing down the entire area. Surfactant is kinda the same. The main thing is to be picky about measurements. Use gloves when mixing and spraying. I get whatever is the best price. There is no difference between brands unless it has some extras thrown in. Let it sit on the leaves at least 12 hours before irrigation or anticipated rain. 12-48 is the ideal window. Spurge doesn't curl quite as noticeably as things like dandelion. Give it a week or so before you expect to see a strong response. 

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3 minutes ago, Tommy Nobis said:

We redesigned some landscaping recently and planted sod where we removed some shrubs and a crepe myrtle.  I'm having to water every day to get the grass growing good due to no rain.  

How long can until I can start mowing the new St Augustine sod?  A few weeks?  I remember it being a while last time I did it at our old house.

It varies. It depends on how well it roots out. Cutting a turn and kicking it up is the risk. Typically when it gets to the 4" range or a month on the ground.

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Go for it. The round-up is essentially inert at this point. It has to contact actively growing tissue to be effective. 

As an aside, if there is ever a concern of contamination of the soil due to over application, spillage, or dumbassery carbon is the most effective adsorbent. 4 bonding sites grab onto any loose chemicals just like when you have to detoxify a poisoning victim. It is by far the nastiest spraying I have to do. The most recent one was a sports field that had some unknown spillage or application by the previous contractor. It is applied in a suspension. 40 lb bag of soot mixed into a hundred gallons of water. You will wear some. It is also available premixed, but it does not cover a very large area. 2.5 gallons only does 500ftsq. 40lbs will do up to 20000.

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Make sure you set your mower height on the highest setting before you mow for the first time.  I did not and didn't account for the mower sinking down in to the sod and ended up scalping my sod.  It looked like shit for quite awhile, but I got it back to looking pretty good with a lot of water and 2 rounds of fertilizer.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/29/2018 at 5:48 PM, Bevo said:

I have some St. Augustine growing in my Zoysia. Is there any way to selectively kill the St. Augustine?

Mowing it in the 1-2" range will help stress the St.A. Ornamec will work to rogue out bermudagrass from zoysia but I haven't tried it in St. A.

On 9/1/2018 at 8:47 AM, T’Boo Ted Marshall said:

When would be a good time to add some peat moss on SA to cure some take all root rot?
I follow Randy Lemmon’s chem schedule.

Now is a good time. I am still of the opinion that the damage is done in the cooler wetter parts of the year; spring and fall. Going into dormancy and coming out of it are the crucial times.

3 hours ago, mrhorn said:

Am I correct in assuming this is brown patch? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe. The same list applies to it as take all. Will link some later.

Sorry for the delayed response. This thread got lost in a haze of CR and sports

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